(Topic ID: 95207)

Is mylar the devil? Should I install?

By Pinballrus

9 years ago


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  • 21 posts
  • 13 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 years ago by freezie
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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    #1 9 years ago

    I know on this site mylar is basically considered evil on your playfield, but most of that mylar is 20+ years old! How does brand new stuff stack up against a clear coat?

    I'm doing a fairly extensive restore on a Mousin' Around, and recently had some art touched up on the playfield with a plan of having it professionally clearcoated after the touchups.

    Well, the touchups aren't perfect, and I am now wondering if I should spend the fairly hefty sum of cash to clear this specific playfield.

    Options are:
    1 - Spend the money to do the clearcoat and have a extremely fast, nice playfield that most would not notice had been touched up (though I would know) Cost - $375

    2 - Mylar the playfield and have a clean and probably not quite as fast game, that would still play well, but not have that beautiful clear on it while I wait to find a NOS one. Cost - $25

    Thoughts? How much difference would I feel between the 2 options?

    #2 9 years ago

    A before and after photo of one section:

    photo 1.JPGphoto 1.JPG MA_after.jpgMA_after.jpg
    #3 9 years ago

    If the touchups are not perfect, then just wax then Mylar the playfield.

    As long as you wax, the Mylar will come up easily.

    #4 9 years ago

    Clearcoat. In heavy traffic areas (such as the pops) clear and mylar. The pop bumpers drive the ball down into the PF, and better safe than sorry. Even in a home use environment, mylar belongs in a pop bumper nest.

    #5 9 years ago
    Quoted from Pinballrus:

    A before and after photo of one section:

    Not the best photos to compare before + after (diff lighting in each pic - try to imitate the same lighting as in the first photo), but I'd say that's a very good touch up from here...
    Nice work!
    -mof

    #6 9 years ago
    Quoted from mof:

    Not the best photos to compare before + after (diff lighting in each pic - try to imitate the same lighting as in the first photo), but I'd say that's a very good touch up from here...
    Nice work!
    -mof

    I know it's tough to see in those photos, but it isn't as good as it appears - not likely noticeable to all, but I'm having a tough time justifying spending the money on clear if it isn't perfect.

    #7 9 years ago

    I like using "cling vinyl"

    #8 9 years ago
    Quoted from iceman44:

    I like using "cling vinyl"

    Does "cling vinyl" mean mylar?

    #9 9 years ago

    idk why clearcoating would cost 375 bucks, should be able to do a decent DIY with good product.

    #10 9 years ago
    Quoted from zizzlemeplease:

    idk why clearcoating would cost 375 bucks, should be able to do a decent DIY with good product.

    It's an automotive clear coat done by the only local guy who has a lot of experience - everything is more expensive in the bay area, etc.

    But, yeah, it's pretty expensive.

    I also don't have any experience, an airbrush, compressor or a good place to spray. Would rather not make things worse!

    #11 9 years ago

    I just tt a operator who said he is using self laminating sheets and that they protect great but come off easy.

    #12 9 years ago

    Was that damage caused by a metal guide? It looks like it. If so, you may be OK without mylar. The ball touched the field no closer than about 1/4 inch from guides and posts.

    #13 9 years ago
    Quoted from cody_chunn:

    Was that damage caused by a metal guide? It looks like it. If so, you may be OK without mylar. The ball touched the field no closer than about 1/4 inch from guides and posts.

    I think it is a line where mylar WAS installed at some point, the ball definitely travels over this and a few other touched up areas

    #14 9 years ago
    Quoted from mountaingamer:

    I just tt a operator who said he is using self laminating sheets and that they protect great but come off easy.

    Interesting, wonder how often they need to be replaced?

    #15 9 years ago
    Quoted from Pinballrus:

    It's an automotive clear coat done by the only local guy who has a lot of experience - everything is more expensive in the bay area, etc.

    Gary at Bobcat Batteries in SJ only charges $200. He likely has examples of his work there at his shop.

    http://www.yelp.com/biz/bobcat-batteries-san-jose

    #16 9 years ago
    Quoted from phishrace:

    Gary at Bobcat Batteries in SJ only charges $200. He likely has examples of his work there at his shop.
    http://www.yelp.com/biz/bobcat-batteries-san-jose

    Hmmm - he's same one who quotes $375 on CL. I think $200 may have been his old price? Or is there a secret word

    #17 9 years ago

    Mylar is not the devil. There are spots where it is very handy to stop wear from happening. Not in every case, but on a case by case basis. If the game is a total keeper, that may change a bit. But if the game is just stopping by for a year, just preventing more wear is usually OK.

    #18 9 years ago

    Foosball is for the devil, that's what mama says!

    #19 9 years ago

    You could always go back and get a better color match as you haven't cleared or mylared it yet.
    The clear will make the mis-matched potions stand out more. But like you said, you are the one who will notice it the most. Others will most likely not take notice.

    #20 9 years ago
    Quoted from Pinballrus:

    Hmmm - he's same one who quotes $375 on CL. I think $200 may have been his old price? Or is there a secret word

    I've seen the $200 price (by him) on craigslist recently. He may have increased his prices though. Give him a call or stop by for Thursday night pinball there. It's free.

    #21 9 years ago

    I've ordered some Mylar magnet disks and drops , I plan to install them on my new sterns .

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