From my experience, cracks like that can develop from t-nut installation depending on how they were installed. Especially where you have a nut being installed between two close holes like you see in the sling area. The risk is increased if the pf isnt laid flat on a firm surface (for example installing on a rotisserie).

I installed a couple first and noticed a crack. I know it was from me hammering the t-nut in and i was aware of what could happen and thought i was being cautious. Live and learn... It was between two holes maybe a half inch apart. Thats when i made up a rig with some hardwood with sharp edges sanded off, and some rubber to protect the clear side. Then used some steel washers to distribute the load and drew the t-nut up from the bottom with a bolt. I missed one t-nut and realized it after the pf was partially populated and used this method on a rotisserie, and had no issues. This takes longer of course but is the lowest risk imo. Incedently the pf in question was not a CPR so it can happen with any repro or restalled pf using hard clear coats.

When you get to the topside, be careful as well when you install screws. Need to remove the clear from around the hole using a dremmel (check out Ron Kruzman’s kit) or sharp drill bit so the threads dont grab hold and pull the clear up.

Btw i enjoy your Youtube channel.

Same here. I had the pf on my workbbench with an automotive type carpet and used a deadblow hammer. I know i caused my crack as the pf was perfect before i started. Luckily hidden under plastics but still a piss off considering i was (i thought) being very careful. From now on i’ll only start t-nut with deadblow to sink the tangs, then draw the rest in with a bolt making sure to distribute the pressure over a large area. Stole the idea off of Pinball Mike D’s moster bash retoration series but i think he’s pulled them. Or at least i couldn’t find the vids anymore.