Yes , loosen the two allen screws and adjust the flipper.
Care fully tighten the screws when you have the flipper in the position you want .
Also be carefull to leave a slight gap at the post, between the piece you are tightening and the white plastic piece above it
.

That bounce is not due to incorrectly installed flipper bats. Its due to the lane guide being worn or sitting too low in relation to the back of the bat.

There is no adjustment to change the pivot point of a flipper bat. The adjustment only raises or lower that at rest position of the small end of the bat.

In your case it looks ok, could be just a smidge higher, but as I said that will not fix the bump you are getting.

Try loosening the screws that hold the lane guide down and see if there is some play for you to move it up a bit.

This.

Also, this may help you out also: http://www.passionforpinball.com/FlipFrames.htm

Chris

The two allen screws will allow you to rotate the flipper to a new position. The problem I see in your first picture is that the lane guide is too low. You can't move the flipper mechanism up because of the flipper bushing that goes through the playfield.

So what you can do is move the lane guide up. Sometimes loosening the screws that hold the lane guide down will allow you to move the guide up enough so that the lane guide is in line with the flipper rubber. Hopefully you have enough "slop" in the mounting to do this otherwise you will have to move the guide (which means new holes in the playfield).

Ideally you want the top of the lane guide to be even with the top of the flipper rubber and all in one straight line. This may require that you loosen the two allen screws to rotate the flipper slightly, then tighten again. Remember to have about 1/16" of up/down play on the flipper bat before tightening the flipper screws.

This is true but depending on the playfield the lane may not be adjustable . The bat does need rotated IMO. Would you not agree the it looks low. As far as stopping the bump factor they are correct rotating the bat will have no affect.

"In your case it looks ok, could be just a smidge higher, but as I said that will not fix the bump you are getting."

I did say it looked low, but that isn't the problem he is trying to fix.

I found on one of my machines that the holes for mounting the flipper assembly were large and needed to be filled to get them snug. If you didn't get the screws to go back into the center of the hole, the flipper bats would be off like yours. So I had to fill and recenter them to get the flippers to line up with the lane guides. Since I would guess you didn't move your lane guides, maybe your flipper bat didn't go back in the same place for some reason. Looks like an older game so I'm sure it is built differently than my WCS, but I'd look for the root cause of the issue rather than "fixing" something that wasn't a problem before you started.

This is a shot in the dark, but are those the right flippers installed? If you move the flipper down or move the guide up it won't look right.
I see the end of the guide has a moon shape in the blurry photo. The moon shape end of the guide looks like it's already aligned properly with the center line of the flipper which made me suspect maybe a wrong flipper.

Too wide/thick of flipper or too thick of rubber bumper perhaps maybe?

If that is a Bally/Williams Pin, you have Williams bats. They do not come thicker. Gottlieb bats are thinker but they are obvious and would not fit the Williams mechanism as the shaft is massive (no giggling Bevis) on those.

Rubber can be thicker or thinner depending on the batch, where it was made, ect,,,, they do not sell by thickness per se..

Your lane guides are most likely just worn.

If you have to, you can loosen the lane guide screw and see if you can nudge it up a bit and retighten it. If that doesn't work you can always make the hole a tad bigger and try again. You can even put a washer under the screw if you have to. This is what you can do if you don't want to source a new lane guide.

But first, what game is this?

If you do that you may risk future movement, but you can always use a longer screw with a locknut on the backside of the playfield, if it comes loose. In your case there are three screws. Try loosening them all and see if it will move.

Cliffy sells new larger return lane guides for these system 6 machines. They are slightly larger than originals to compensate for ball hop onto the flipper rubber. You just have to reuse the metal posts and attach them to your new guides.

Well that sounds way better than what I had in mind.

www.passionforpinball.com

Enhanced A-8108-L Flipper Return Frame
$11.00
Enhanced replacement flipper return frames for Williams pinball games from 1979 to present. Enhanced design practically eliminates ball hop over the flipper! NOTE; Standoffs or spacers not included. User must transfer their existing parts to the new frames. NOTE- no standoffs or spacers included. User must transfer existing parts to new frames

Add to Cart:
Max: 5

Model: A-8108-L-ENH
Shipping Weight: 0.9lbs
20 Units in Stock
Manufactured by: Cliffy

This product was added to our catalog on Monday 19 August, 2013.

Send Cliffy an email, he will not steer you wrong. He is very knowledgable and a member on this forum, not to mention his protectors are a god send to our hobby.

Please, I beg of you, do not drill bigger holes in your play field!

That was not the suggestion. Enlarging the lane guide hole as a last resort was.

My bad, I was probably reading too fast. I still think that those cliffy lane guides will be the way to go.

No doubt, if they are available. I still think that just loosening all the screws and nudging it a bit can make a world of difference.

I would try to find a replacement first. If non was available, I would remove the part and inspect it to make sure that this would work. If it is feasible, the hole could be elongated just enough so that the guide could be moved upward until it was level with the flipper. A small round file is the tool that I would use.

Or just live with it, if that is the design of the machine. But if it is indeed worn, you have to make do with what you have sometimes.

Another solution if new guides are not available would be to add a plastic or metal under the guide that could be cut to the desired size.