(Topic ID: 303195)

Iron Man wireforms completed. Plastic ramps removed.

By Loganpinball

2 years ago


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There are 78 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 2 years ago

So, I am swapping out bulbs and I removed the right ramp. My mental issues against plastics kicks in again and I am going to attempt to make a right side wireform. If it works I will try the left. I need serious help, but I do make wireforms and I have artistic dementia and figured I would share it. I will post pictures as it goes. I know I am nuts...

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#2 2 years ago

That's really cool! Good luck with the project.

#3 2 years ago

The right ramp has a huge hairpin turn. There is going to be some fancy engineering along the back turns to makes something that works...

#4 2 years ago

Molded the plastic part of the ramp. I do not have enough to mold the left, so todays all about the right.

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#5 2 years ago

(to follow)

#6 2 years ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

The right ramp has a huge hairpin turn. There is going to be some fancy engineering along the back turns to makes something that works...

On it!

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#7 2 years ago

Lower rail done..

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#8 2 years ago

Interesting idea, for sure. You're going to lose the speed of the plastic, tho!

#9 2 years ago
Quoted from Loganpinball:

Lower rail done..
[quoted image]

That IS some fancy wire-bending. I suspect you'll need an extra wire for the back wall to keep the ball on the track. You do amazing work. The hairpin looks amazing!!!

#10 2 years ago
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#11 2 years ago

Great idea, and excellent work !

#12 2 years ago

Oh man now I need an iron man. Wireforms would also go really great on X-men pro

#13 2 years ago

Following

#14 2 years ago

Xmen is on my list to buy.

Wireform done, got 4 points on support. I just need to clean it up with sanding and stoning. Now on to transition ramp.

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#15 2 years ago

following

#16 2 years ago

Powder coat those bad boys and wow!

#17 2 years ago

Kinda cool. Someone converted to drop targets on IM. That with wire forms would be a game changer.

#18 2 years ago

Wow, that's impressive! Have you done this before?

#19 2 years ago

Added flasher mounts and 90 percent cleaned up. Very happy with it.

Quoted from mbwalker:

Wow, that's impressive! Have you done this before?

Thanks! I make and sell wireforms. Everything is on Loganpinball.com. Gotg, jjp gnr and mando are current.

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#20 2 years ago

Not done, but moving in the right direction

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#22 2 years ago
Quoted from jkashani:

Powder coat those bad boys and wow!

One red, one gold? Or would it be a possible to have the red/gold mix on each one?

#23 2 years ago

I can make a easier version that I could sell that involves the original ramp. I will do it to my machine to illustrate what it would look like. Basically the right ramp would be cut at a exit point just in front of back panel. It will only take a hack saw and an adapter that I would include to install it. Just curious if there is any interest in that?
It took 9 hours to do one side. It would be too expensive to try and sell as I do $50 an hour labor. I am ok destroying my ramps to show the result. I can buy replacements. Just looking for opinions. Either way I will do it to show.

#24 2 years ago

Very cool!

#25 2 years ago

Can you shoot some video?

#26 2 years ago
Quoted from Loganpinball:

It will only take a hack saw and an adapter that I would include to install it. Just curious if there is any interest in that?

I'm having a hard time mentally picturing a bunch of people lining up to saw their ramps in half. I'm very comfortable with flame polishing ramps, and this would make me cringe as I worked on it. Also not a huge fan of people destroying otherwise perfectly good ramps.

#27 2 years ago

Impressive. I have an iron man and the ramp entrance is prone to blowing out on the right. If steel is your MO you might do nicely with a laser cut ramp entrance like I did with Greek Gods via OSH cuts. You can cut grooves in the floor of the ramp to allow vision of the inserts underneath.

You are braver than I with doing the hidden hairpin turn. I would have been tempted to make the ramp as two pieces and join them behind the board. Again nice work.

#28 2 years ago
Quoted from Frax:

I'm having a hard time mentally picturing a bunch of people lining up to saw their ramps in half. I'm very comfortable with flame polishing ramps, and this would make me cringe as I worked on it. Also not a huge fan of people destroying otherwise perfectly good ramps.

I agree, but was curious. It looks like this is just for my machine. The labor kills the prospect of selling these. Thanks for the input.

Quoted from 27dnast:

Can you shoot some video?

I am doing gotg wireforms this week to pay the bills. I will post video when the right is done.

#29 2 years ago
Quoted from Cmartin1235:

Impressive. I have an iron man and the ramp entrance is prone to blowing out on the right. If steel is your MO you might do nicely with a laser cut ramp entrance like I did with Greek Gods via OSH cuts. You can cut grooves in the floor of the ramp to allow vision of the inserts underneath.
You are braver than I with doing the hidden hairpin turn. I would have been tempted to make the ramp as two pieces and join them behind the board. Again nice work.

If I can solve the turn around ramp in back in a reasonable amount of time and parts I am willing to try. The one piece assembly kills the labor as it is alot to do and line up. I would like to figure out something to get these to be able to sell. As I said as is now I would be at $450 in labor just on the right not counting the parts.. way too price heavy to do.

#30 2 years ago

Loganpinball - I’ve always wondered if it was possible to make some kind of metal or mini-wire form exit piece that attached to the ramp exits. The rubber bumper tends to cause a little rattle before the ball goes to the inlane. Do you think it would be possible to make some kind of piece that smoothly & quickly feeds the ball to the inlane?

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#31 2 years ago

This question is tangential. Coincidentally I picked up a new right ramp for Iron Man. I’m planning a simple ram swap. How long a job is it?

#32 2 years ago
Quoted from Loganpinball:

I can make a easier version that I could sell that involves the original ramp. I will do it to my machine to illustrate what it would look like. Basically the right ramp would be cut at a exit point just in front of back panel. It will only take a hack saw and an adapter that I would include to install it. Just curious if there is any interest in that?
It took 9 hours to do one side. It would be too expensive to try and sell as I do $50 an hour labor. I am ok destroying my ramps to show the result. I can buy replacements. Just looking for opinions. Either way I will do it to show.

I think another issue might be the appearance of the cut plastic. Even if a person flame polishes it, if it's not a clean cut, it might still look like crap. How about making the cut in the plastic be behind that vertical piece of wood at the end of the PF? That way you don't need to bend a 180 degree, and hide where the plastic and metal guides meet. Maybe around a 90 degree bend or a little less?

Would that help enough? I think that was where your comment above was headed, but ending up with more of a straight wire guide.

Don't own the pin - just an interesting thread.

#33 2 years ago
Quoted from Cmartin1235:

This question is tangential. Coincidentally I picked up a new right ramp for Iron Man. I’m planning a simple ram swap. How long a job is it?

The only part thats hard is the two lower outer edge screws that hold the ironman graphics. They are in a tight spot, other than that its easy.

Quoted from mbwalker:

I think another issue might be the appearance of the cut plastic. Even if a person flame polishes it, if it's not a clean cut, it might still look like crap. How about making the cut in the plastic be behind that vertical piece of wood at the end of the PF? That way you don't need to bend a 180 degree, and hide where the plastic and metal guides meet. Maybe around a 90 degree bend or a little less?
Would that help enough? Don't own the pin - just an interesting thread.

That is a good idea. I will look into that. Thanks! I really want to make this doable for anyone interested. And if you put blue painters tape down first cuts are cleaner.

#34 2 years ago
Quoted from Rarehero:

Loganpinball - I’ve always wondered if it was possible to make some kind of metal or mini-wire form exit piece that attached to the ramp exits. The rubber bumper tends to cause a little rattle before the ball goes to the inlane. Do you think it would be possible to make some kind of piece that smoothly & quickly feeds the ball to the inlane? [quoted image][quoted image]

The ramps on this one bounce back as well. The wireform just drops it. Looking at mandalorian ramps they have no rubber stopper, instead there is a full metal insert. I would think that would be an option.

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#35 2 years ago
Quoted from Loganpinball:

...That is a good idea. I will look into that. Thanks! I really want to make this doable for anyone interested. And if you put blue painters tape down first cuts are cleaner.

Another thing that might help someone if they have to cut plastic (if you can bend the guides cheap enough) and are hesitant, is to photo copy your cut plastic, then include it w/a guide rail. Make it 1 to 1 scale so they can literally set their plastic on top of the copy and mark where to cut. That would take all the guess work out. Same as those drill guides for mounting stuff on a wall, etc.

Sorry, not trying to make more work for you! LOL

#36 2 years ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

I think another issue might be the appearance of the cut plastic. Even if a person flame polishes it, if it's not a clean cut, it might still look like crap. How about making the cut in the plastic be behind that vertical piece of wood at the end of the PF? That way you don't need to bend a 180 degree, and hide where the plastic and metal guides meet. Maybe around a 90 degree bend or a little less?
Would that help enough? I think that was where your comment above was headed, but ending up with more of a straight wire guide.
Don't own the pin - just an interesting thread.

Heres to killing a perfectly good ramp!

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#37 2 years ago

I always hated this right ramp on IM since it was poorly designed first on AP and then reused again on IM. On the original run of IM (and AP), it would rattle around and then come back down the ramp if you didn't hit it squarely. It did seem to be better on the IM Vaults though for some reason. Will the wire ramp help fix that at all?

#38 2 years ago
Quoted from Loganpinball:

Heres to killing a perfectly good ramp![quoted image]

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#39 2 years ago

Counter sinking screws in plastic for adapter. Cut my form and rebending to fit. Not sure how far I will get tonight, but it is coming together.

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#40 2 years ago

Stopping for today. I like the look and it functions fine. I just need to add a few supports up top where it connects. I think the look of them is worth it for me atleast. I only killed ramps that can still be bought. I am ordering replacements to have if I ever sell or trade it down the road. I will be trying a different way to connect them as they way I do it is a little involved and easy to screw up.

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#41 2 years ago

due to not understanding 100% english, i was first thinking : why the guy is not keeping the plastic part to go behind the back panel, and link from there with the metal stuff...

now you did it as it, and it seems GREAT for sure !!!

#42 2 years ago

very nice work!! you have some skills!!

now that you have figured out all the bends maybe not 9 hours to make again? or 2 piece joined behind the backboard as has been mentioned .

i have never liked how the ramp switch is tilted it just does not look right

#43 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballjj:

very nice work!! you have some skills!!
now that you have figured out all the bends maybe not 9 hours to make again? or 2 piece joined behind the backboard as has been mentioned .
i have never liked how the ramp switch is tilted it just does not look right

Yes, the split ramp behind panel is what I am trying to streamline to sell as a kit. I am trying to get this one sorted and installed to playtest.

#44 2 years ago

Quick video of right ramp testing. The game is jacked really high in back. I need to lower it. Using the stock plastic keeps ball speed and just transitions down rails. I can make a better one, but this rail is the figure out rail

#45 2 years ago

Trying a straighter run....

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#46 2 years ago
Quoted from jkashani:

Powder coat those bad boys and wow!

I disagree. I think the natural steel fits this theme better. don't rainbow this one up.

#47 2 years ago
Quoted from Loganpinball:

Trying a straighter run....
[quoted image]

I'm glad! I was looking at it in the game pictures and wondering how it would play if it didn't follow the old route and instead just came down the side.

#48 2 years ago
Quoted from Loganpinball:

Trying a straighter run....
[quoted image]

Do you think the bend in the original plastic was meant to maybe scrub off some speed?

#49 2 years ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

Do you think the bend in the original plastic was meant to maybe scrub off some speed?

Not sure? I already like this line better, just visually it works. Still working on it. I gave up for today on gotg as everything I did just sucked. I scrapped a completed rail. So, I figure I needed creative break.

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#50 2 years ago

Created a slot for plastic ramp to slide into place. Then it can be held there by a nut and bolt. Everything is still dirty, but I like this one better.

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