Iron Man
Stern, 2010
Iron Man (Pro Vault Edition)
Stern, 2014You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider metahugh.
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Quoted from Concretehardt:Dang Grinder that has to be $1000 + worth of goodies?
Its amazing how much money can be spent to upgrade these games. I plan on doing the armor down the road.
You know I would love to fit a red clear apron from Transformers LE on this game, I think that would look really cool.
Quoted from Kawydud:The VE units didn't come with any mylar. I have made rings and donuts for them.
Mine came with Mylar rings around both magnets.
Quoted from Astropin:Had DoD hurry up lit again today......hit the first shot to start it but missed the shot to collect!
Had only one shot left on Jericho yesterday!
If only I could put it all together in one epic game.
I did that yesterday, missed the DoD hurry up in one game and then hit it in a later game to set my GC score of 108mil. I don't know how you guys get to 150mil and above this is absolutely the hardest game I have ever owned. I recorded my session, video encoding now 
Quoted from metahugh:I did that yesterday, missed the DoD hurry up in one game and then hit it in a later game to set my GC score of 108mil. I don't know how you guys get to 150mil and above this is absolutely the hardest game I have ever owned. I recorded my session, video encoding now
On YouTube now:
GC score starting @ 27:10. By my calculation that was a 13 minute and 32 second game to get that score. No wonder I was tired afterwards!
Quoted from pinnyheadhead:Me too. Tried to like Tron, but could not get into it. I will keep trying though?
I'm wondering if I would like Tron better than IM in my home collection.
Quoted from swampfire:I had Tron for 3 months in a temporary trade, and there's no way I'd trade my IM for it. Tron 's rules might be a little better, but the flow in IM almost never stops. I also prefer the theme, music and artwork in IM. I would say though that IM and Tron are the 1st and 2nd fastest Sterns, respectively.
Good info. I should have said in my tiny collection (only have two pins to play with the third still in pieces)
I do love the IM theme.
Quoted from BC_Gambit:Not that my opinion holds more weight than any other, but if you are putting down a full playfield protector in response to seeing wear that is not even visible (form a player's position) on routed games... this might not be the right hobby for you.
Clear chipping off with chunks of art is BS, but at the trough entry I could care less. If "trough entry" pictures become a thing when selling a game this hobby will have officially jumped the shark.
Clear chipping like that shows adhesion problems. I'd hope not to see similar wear around the magnets. Don't remove the factory Mylar!
Quoted from Lermods:I think this might have to be my first color dmd. That looks incredible, especially compared to the crap in the stock dmd.
I'm getting one, it will be my first ColorDMD!
Quoted from forensicd:ok, ordered a VE. Never played Ironman, but love brutal games. What should I do to this bad boy to get the most out of it. Any mods that are necessary?
My list:
Shaker
ColorDMD
LEDOCD
Flipper Fidelity speaker set
Everything else is window dressing.
Quoted from ATLpb:FYI- not to take a sale away from Herg, but LEDOCD is not necessary with a vault edition.
addl opinion: colordmd is cool but is also just window dressing. speakers don't add as much to IM in my opinion as shaker takes care of adding atmosphere and the music is solid but not fantastic.
I think that depends on how sensitive you are to LEDs. For me I get headaches after playing my IMVE with the stock setup because of the on/off nature of the LEDs. Those little resistor PCBs don't make much of a difference. LEDOCD fixed that for me.
Can't completely disagree re: ColorDMD, but I can say it is much more pleasant to watch the screen and to see what's happening in the videos sections of the DMD animations now.
Quoted from Astropin:Shaker is #1 - Do it or don't bother getting IM
Everything else is just "nice" to have but also personal opinion.
Me? I've gone Shaker (duh), External Sub, Color DMD, Topper, Color Changing Speaker Panels, Lighted Whips, Added Drone and Iron Man figures, Under Monger and behind Monger Lighting.
I'd like to do the lighted whips eventually but I refuse to pay someone to do the mod. Same with the lit up figures, someday I will go on a mod spree and make my own.
Quoted from ATLpb:I just played for two hours straight and broke 40M once. Factory settings with posts all the way down. Times like this make me want to quit pinball and especially regret buying Iron Man- so many drains on my machine have nothing to do with player's action or inaction.
I don't suck at pinball either. for perspective, I put up 500M on TWD without having much idea what I was doing. 400 on SM in competition mode with middle post removed. 400 on an extraordinarily fast Met pro,two shots within end of the line.
yet I couldn't sniff 50 or even start DODhu in two straight hours of playing easier than factory IM
IM is hard - don't let anyone tell you differently. Pinball is hard...
Don't feel bad, my games are like that on average as well. Set the tilt loose and shake the crap out of the game, it will make you feel better.
Quoted from DaveH:This should be a public service announcement to all IM owners. When I got my VE that top plate looked close, but was really WAY off. So I was getting massive airballs when I would shoot. Just a tiny bit off will launch the ball into the plastics at the back of the game.
Some people use washers, I did it by bending the top plate a little tiny bit at a time, putting the plastic lid back on, measuring, taking it off, adjusting a bit, putting it back, measuring. Took a couple of tries, but the airballs went away completely.
If you are hitting up the center and the ball is launching it is probably the monger plate. It is either hitting the plate itself, or the cutout of the playfield at the back of the hole. If it is happening on your game, fix that up quick.
I've been getting airballs off the blue drone targets! I checked the two up the middle and the brackets were bent. This game takes a beating.
I adjusted my monger lid without the need for washers thankfully.
Quoted from Mando:Correct, I think they did something in the code to lessen the harshness of the LED conversion , but it's the normal sockets from the original.
I want to do LED OCD but not sure it worth it given the code helps.
There is no comparison. With the VE those little lamp PCBs and the code changes make it a little better but LEDOCD looks completely different. I think it is a night and day diffference. The only insert that doesn't look perfect is the arc reactor insert, it strobes no matter what on my game. I need to try a few different LEDs and change the settings on my LEDOCD.
I color matched my inserts and replaced all of the bright white GI LEDs with warm whites. I also put a few reds on the backboard and I think it looks good. I prefer a "stock" look versus intense colors in the GI.
Quoted from herg:The new code in LED mode prevents flicker by dumbing down the lighting effects, removing fades that use dimming. Of course, depending on the person, this may be enough to make them happy.
The lighting in IM is awesome, though. Obviously, I'm biased, but the effects in IM on Incandescent mode with an LED OCD are top notch. I'd hate to lose them. I understand the cost of LED OCD can be a turnoff, though.It's not the flashers under that insert that you're seeing is it? I haven't noticed any abnormal strobing on mine. There is also an IM specific settings file in the latest software archive. It doesn't specifically do anything to help strobing, though. The changes in it are to make the fast blinking more distinct from the solidly lit inserts.
BTW, I can't believe I waited as long as I did to get one of these. It's such a rush!
I don't think it is the flashers. I swapped them for incandescent flashers and the effect is still there. To be fair I have the wrong LEDs installed. I have PBL Ghost Busters in there. I am going to buy a set of basic LEDs at TPF this year and re-do my entire game.
I also need to get Gizmo
Quoted from Rom:I went completely backwards and took out ALL the cold-whites from stock VE and replaced EVERYTHING with warm-whites. I like the warm retro look better. Gives me a nice cosy feeling.
Only added 5 reds in some spots.IMG_0008_(resized).JPG
Very tastefully done!!!
Quoted from MK6PIN:Thanks to Hooked for the custom double whip setup and backbox/ apron stuff, pop caps,Lerner mods for war machine and drone, pinball metal for the rails and hinges, Terry @ pinballife for stuff you don't see but needed, and ASHEVILLE powdercoat for an awesome job!!! ( started w pretty stock VE..fwiw)
How much did it cost you to get the powercoat done?
I am planning on getting mine done locally. I realize pricing varies but just curious about ballpark.
Quoted from MK6PIN:$350 for EVERYTHING.....a great job, and very fair, in my estimation....some of the parts were already crinkle black, which they had to burn and sand (of course), and some bare metal ( new apron, side rails and hinges)
Awesome, thanks for the info!
I have a lot of other parts for various projects I have in process so I am hoping to find a good company where I live to get my parts done. $350 sounds like a very fair price!
Quoted from Mando:Color dmd owners ... It seems I have to adjust the vertical position for the VE with metal speaker panel. I settled on 0C I believe ... Any consensus on what's perfect center ?
I think it varies based on how tall you are
Quoted from Grinder901:Drilling is required. Be careful.
You don't technically have to drill, the kit comes with self tapping screws, at least mine did. No drilling necessary.
Quoted from fxdwg:metal? don't know that I have seen those... got a link? (just what I need, to spend more money on this machine!) I did put green flashers under whiplash last night, and the purple ones under the iron monger... oh man, this machine gives me a woody every time I play it now!!! LOL
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2711
You can still use the black pincab protectors but I would recommend getting longer bolts.
The VE's came with plastic versions of the protectors I linked to above. I replaced mine with metal.
Make sure those pincabs are not touching the cabinet or the decals will shift.
Quoted from Trekkie1978:Which kit did you buy?
I bought the one from Marco.
I bought mine from Pinball Life.
Quoted from Mando:Does it actually have a skill shot when you do ?
Pretty sure he is referring to a soft plunge.
Quoted from Grinder901:Hello. My name is Ryan. I'm a mod addict.
It's so beautiful!!!image_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpeg
That looks pretty cool! You need lights on the back legs
Last night I decided to take a break from playing the Hobbit to play IM a bit. What first started as a short stream turned out into a 2.5 hour marathon! I just wanted to get to Jericho and it took FOREVER to get there once. I appreciate IM more when I have sessions like this, which by the way this is the longest I have ever played a single game in my entire collecting hobby.
The first 20 minutes my audio was messed up, head to the 21:50 mark when the audio starts.
Thank you to Owlnonymous to bringing people onto my stream. I probably would have given up after the first hour if I didn't have people watching. I simply couldn't give up
Quoted from Trekkie1978:I picked up my VE in February of this year. Before I dive into my question for everyone, I just want to say that I'm extremely happy with my purchase. Game is simple, challenging, and addicting.
Which leads me to my question, how was this game not popular when it first came out?
It received a ton of backlash because it was so stripped down compared to Stern's other offerings at the time. I know I didn't buy one because I didn't feel like I was getting my money's worth compared to other Sterns I could have purchased back then.
Quoted from KingBW:These are the under-playfield flashers that I attached the purple trough flasher to on my IMVE. Lermods did not have these on his IMVE. The Pinball Refinery LED mod behind the back of Monger also attaches to these under-playfield flashers, so some of you have to have them.
These flashers were on my IMVE. I got one when they were just released so maybe they were changed out at some point?
Quoted from Grinder901:Ugh, looks like I'll have to get one for mine.
How in the world do you not already have one installed?
It is definitely the best bang for the buck mod on IM period.
FYI, on the VE you can install the LEDOCD onto the existing studs in the head. You will have to ream out the mounting holes a tiny bit on the LEDOCD a little since the studs are a little too thick to fit through the holes. I only reamed out the top two holes since all four don't line up with all four mounting holes on the LEDOCD.
Also the bottom two studs will contact the back of the PCB so use a plastic spacer for each top studs to position it away a ways. I think I used half inch spacers.
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Roseville, CA