Quoted from Grinder901:I am Thankful for modders. Just installed Hooked's newest Iron Man mods. He has some great stuff for the speaker panel as well as the apron. Thanks Robert!
Where did you get that display and speaker panel? Looks awesome.
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Quoted from Grinder901:I am Thankful for modders. Just installed Hooked's newest Iron Man mods. He has some great stuff for the speaker panel as well as the apron. Thanks Robert!
Where did you get that display and speaker panel? Looks awesome.
I'm going to install the Cointaker under cabinet flasher kit. I think it has three flash colors, maybe four.
What flashers should I tie each color to? I'm thinking Monger (red), War Machine (Blue), and Whiplash (Green).
Quoted from Grinder901:Monger needs to be Purple. No doubt.
No purple. It has white, red, green, and blue. I tied white to the pop bumpers.
I've got to say, this under cab flash lighting adds a lot to the game! Very impressed!
Quoted from Grinder901:Not to rain on Cointaker but when it comes to under cabinet kits, Brandon from Arcade Upkeep is hands down the best. My kits are customized to my tastes. He even has attract modes on his kits. Any and every color bro, Brandon has the best led kits. Every flash, every target is tied into his led kit.
Hmmm. I just looked him up. I thought I looked at those before and they were significantly more expensive. Guess I missed out, but I do like my current setup though. Very intense.
Quoted from TigerLaw:So, after five straight sub 20 million point games . . . I think I need some strategy suggestions. Is there a thread dedicated solely to that or do I need to dig through 17 pages for various nuggets of info here? I'm ready to get better at this game.
I like to stack. Get your drones out of the way first, then start Monger. With Monger up, hit the War Machine shot to start his multiball. Finish off Monger to start his multiball, then rake in some jackpots.
I also like to stack bogey mode with Whiplash.
Does anyone else find the callouts in this game awesome? Other than the occasional instructional callout, the rest are really fun. I particularly like the random movie callouts. Some of them are pretty funny.
Quoted from RobT:My score could have been a decent bit higher, but I completely failed at DoD. Drained the ball then started Jericho on the next.
My best score was when I nailed DoD for the full 50 million (version 1.4), then went straight to Jericho, and completed that during 2x and scored a nice 100 million points.
Ahhhh. You're a 1.4 guy, huh?
Quoted from Wickedbass:Hey guys, I just picked up an IM 2010. Id really like to put some LEDS in her. LEDs choices are so overwhelming. Id really like to mimic the VE. I like it bright but not color bombed, but a little color would be ok. I checked out cointakers kit and for what I can tell it seems to be a lot of color blue.
Any recommendations? Has anyone made a list they can share. Do I need non ghosting?
Any help is much appreciated.
Thanks
Color match inserts with exception of the ramp scoring (warm white, yellow, orange, red) and Mark VI (Blue). Blue under outlane plastics. Red under iron man targets on the left and right. Warm and cool whites elsewhere. It'll look awesome.
Quoted from Glarrownage:Well, I'm in as of Allentown. Not only am I new to the game but also this is my first ever Stern table. This game alone has totally flipped my opinion of Stern games. At the rate we have been playing it, this thing is going to look like its been on route. That being said, what is most important to install early on to protect the game? I assume you guys prefer the mylar instead of the cliffys for both magnets? Have you felt the need to add cliffys elsewhere? Any advice for a NIB IMVE is welcome!
I have mylar on both my magnets. Goes on nice and is not noticeable. Pinball Life has them for cheap. No other protection mods on my IM.
If you don't have a shaker and sub, get them. They add a whole new dimension to the gameplay.
Quoted from Glarrownage:Has your IM held up pretty well thus far with just the mylar?
No playfield wear. I just checked out the mylar, and they're getting chewed up a bit. They're probably due to be replaced.
My game's a 2010, FWIW.
Quoted from Glarrownage:Wow, that's awesome! How has the Iron Monger held up? Any broken plastics yet?
No broke plastics on mine. The Monger holds up well on all IMs, it seems.
I've seen an aftermarket speaker panel decal for the non-VEs. It was different than the VE and had some circuits on it. Can't seem to find it.
Anyone have a link?
Quoted from jGraffix:We still make the Iron Man speaker panel and you can still order it on our web site. Although we did change the design a bit. We originally printed on metallic vinyl, but we discovered that it's very hard to work with, very expensive and it's always on back order. Now we're just printing on traditional vinyl. http://www.PinGraffix.com
Screen_Shot_2015-11-28_at_11.51.37_AM.png
Do these work for the original IM? The speaker cutout in the original IM are squared, but this decal has round cutouts.
Quoted from jGraffix:We still make the Iron Man speaker panel and you can still order it on our web site. Although we did change the design a bit. We originally printed on metallic vinyl, but we discovered that it's very hard to work with, very expensive and it's always on back order. Now we're just printing on traditional vinyl. http://www.PinGraffix.com
Screen_Shot_2015-11-28_at_11.51.37_AM.png
Also, I couldn't find it on your site.
Quoted from forensicd:ok, ordered a VE. Never played Ironman, but love brutal games. What should I do to this bad boy to get the most out of it. Any mods that are necessary?
At a minimum, get a shaker and external sub. They add SO MUCH to this game!
Does anyone want to trade me their clear DMD screen for a red DMD filter/screen? It'd have to be for the original IM.
Quoted from Pimp77:It is if you want any of the cool effects.
I actually prefer the very discrete nature of the LEDs without fade of LEDOCD on this pin. It's cool when everything goes dark and back on instantaneously in certain events (like battling Monger). IMO, there's better areas to spend $150.
Quoted from Lermods:You need to adjust the plate on top of monger. Use a straight edge to make sure it's perfectly flat.
This is correct.
I've spent a lot of time adjusting the Monger lid just right. The issue is usually caused with the monger lid being too low and the ball hitting the playfield edge on behind the Monger. My fix ultimately involved gently bending the Monger bracket and adding some very small washers under the lid.
I think she bought the vinyl canvas on eBay, then she had to staple it to a 2'x3' frame seperately (which still needs to be stretched a little tighter in my case).
Quoted from ATLpb:the speaker inserts are dope. did you make or buy?
Inserts are from www.speakerlightkits.com .
LEDs are from www.kimballspinballs.com . Kim made them for me special for me after I couldn't find any cool white inserts.
Quoted from Mando:I need to join the club anyone know where to find one?
Aren't they still selling NIB VE's?
Quoted from ilovegames:Also, has anyone else used these acrylic inserts?
http://speakerlightkits.com/Acrylic-Designs.html
I am interested in the Iron Man figure one but am unsure how it would look. If anyone has tried it I would love to see a picture of them!
Thanks
Similar to above, I recently installed these. They're great!
My pinballs are sticking a to Whiplash's magnet after the magnet holds the ball. I alway have to shake it loose. I thought the pinballs were maybe getting magnetized, but they don't stick to the monger magnet.
Anyone else have this issue?
Question for you Iron Man/SAM owners.
My dad's Iron Man left flipper blew a fuse. After replacing the fuse, the flipper is staying held up. I suspect the transistor is bad, and would like to replace it for him next weekend while I visit.
The Iron Man manual online doesn't show the SAM electronics BOM. TRON manual shows a 22NE10L transistor. When I look up this part on Pinball Life, it says it's for Stern Whitestar.
Is this transistor valid for Iron Man?
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