Hold flipper, now try and hit one of the two inlanes on top. It's pretty tough actually.

starting at 1M points

Thanks so much!!

The upper right ball guide is the skill shot, hard to do.

A new IM translite available. PM if interested.

IM 2022 PST (resized).jpg

Bit busy imo, if you could do the original factory translite with that shot of whiplash added and monger somewhere that would be dope!

Not feeling it.

At full size, backlit and on your game I think you will be surprised at how much it will liven up you machine. But its all good, to each their own.

I also put an alternate translight on mine. I wouldn’t post it because of opinions. You love it, and that’s all that counts.

Hard to beat the original IMO

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Yawn, IMO.

The phrase less is more comes to mind. Now take it whatever way you’d like, you do good work (I have your SM translite), but having just the essential things is sometimes better than having way too many superfluous things. It allows you to focus on what matters.

What are the Do or Die MB requirements? I watched Karl’s stream and it looks like you need to get the super jackpot in the 3 multiballs, progress IRON MAN to Mach 5, and kill a ton of drones. Is that everything? Does anyone know how many drones are required?

I thought there may be another way, but the easy way I like to remember is to:

1) Battle each of the 5 characters (it will then light up). When all 5 are lit, they will flash in unison. Do or Die is ready...

2) Do or Die is started by then hitting the center shot. It's a hurry-up, counting down from 35M points.

3) One needs to hit the center shot again to collect the remaining points.

***Losing the ball at any point along this process will start the requirements for Do or Die all over again. Basically, all the character lights will go back off and need to be lit again.

You all inspired me and reminded me how great this game is. Just popped downstairs to play this fast, brutal and game, 3 times. 7M, 6M, and finished with 33M. Had 3 characters lit a few times toward Do or Die. Last game I was able to light all 6 Mark suits for Jericho, but crapped out before I could hit the center shot to start it! Darn! What a rush!!!

Do you have a backbox led kit on that?

Do or Die hurry-up is NOT THE SAME as Do or Die Multiball which is the final wizard mode. One is easy to get to…. one is not.

Found this post from 9yrs ago. Not sure if anything changed with code updates since then.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-near-impossibility-of-do-or-die-multiball

OMG! Thank you! Learn something new every day (which is a great way to go through life... I know too many people, friends and not friends, that already know everything!) I can now put Do or Die Multiball up there with Valinor on LOTR... things I know are there, but may never achieve.

Iron Man pin2dmd colorization finished. Who interested in real pin files, let me know.

Yes

Looks great but wish someone had the skill to convert IRONMAN to lcd.

I watched Karl beat do or die multiball and the grind it took is not something that I even want to attempt and it didn't look fun at all. I'll just have to be satisfied with regular old do or die.

So after playing Beatles I started to wonder could Ironmans spinners be upgraded to opto spinners? Well let’s find out!

Weird question, but does anyone know the "WHIPLASH" font on the plastic?

Thanks!

Hi gang, noob here. Just had my center post around the orbit shot stop working. It was working just fine and out of the blue it just stopped. I can't get it to fire in the service menu either, any ideas??
Thanks

Hey any updates on the pop bumpers?

I noticed hooked updated to, retired 2020, we will see...?
IronManHookedOnPinballPopBumpers (resized).JPG

The first thing I would do is lift the playfield and see if any solder joints to that coil have broken.

As of yesterday, caps were with the laser cut guy to cut the bases. Hooked is waiting for that part to be completed. Hopefully, soon.

So I have owned an Ironman since release and as cool as the whiplash EL wire mods are they are not that bright and easily get filtered out by the flashers especially once you LED your game.

Tried loads of different EL wire types and non of them are that bright, but I found some cool stuff recently, it runs on 3-5v, doesn’t require an inverter so no annoying hum and best of all it’s super bright!

First picture below is taken with all my living room lights on overhead.

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And my 2nd version/design of the new whips I have made for my whiplash, my first version had thicker black straps, went half as thick on this version and it looks a lot better imo, just wanted to share with fellow owners.
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Yes, the one I got from Hooked isn’t that bright (ended up taking out one of the two flashers to help). Also part of One whip stopped working. Nice job, details on where you got em or sell some, they look GREAT!

Looks great! I’d love to know what you used. I’d like to add some whips to my game. Thanks!

Once I have finalised everything I’ll give a run down of what was used and worked, currently on the 2nd design above as I wasn’t quite happy with the 1st set I did with thicker black banding, I also did a version with wrapped black wire but that looked a little messy and was super time consuming.

The extra wire past the small black handles is intentional, that will run down his arms and loop into his back pack just like it does in the film, not much to work with on these 4.75” figures but still trying to go for movie accuracy.

Never mind ... it connects to "Blu-Blu" as per page 55 of the manual. This is the power lead for the fluorescent tube.

Anyone selling an vault edition decals? Thanks

If anyone needs custom music 1.86 code for Iron Man VE:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/iron-man-ve-custom-186-code

Still looking war machine plastic and right outline

Stern still had some in stock a few months ago as I got a replacement for a damaged one.

I am currently being proposed an Iron Man Vault. I have never had a SAM before, is it possible to know the lifetime number of games played, or is it reset on an update ?

I wouldn’t trust it either way. Use condition as your judge. Go right towards the areas of wear. Art around the flipper buttons. Shooter lane. The inlane slots where the switch is (how beat from the ball drop out of the ramps). And on IM, definitely the trough as you peek under the apron from the playfield. Finally the magnets.

Those should give you an idea of the overall condition of the game. If they are saying really low plays, but those areas don’t agree, they are lying to you. That’s not a big deal, you should expect them to be lying. However, at that point you should look with a more critical eye.

Condition is king.

The audits do reset when the code is changed. So, no way to know. But as DaveH says, don't go by plays anyway. Look at the actual condition.

i've just bought a X-Men Magneto with 36 games on it !

heu... wait... at 99%, you know this cant be true, right ?
than as said above, only your eyes will judge the state (which was pristine for my Magneto lol)

As others have said. No way to know. But the good thing about SAM....In my experience, SAM is the most reliable pinball platform I've encountered. I've had everything from WPC, WPC95, Pinball2000, Whitestar, SAM. Spike2 and Data East. SAM has been extremely reliable. I've had 5 SAM pins for almost 10 years and the only problem I had was a trace went bad on an opto board. Iron Man coincidentally (War machine). I actually fixed it (jumpered) before the replacement arrived. So the replacement opto is sitting in the coin box.

The machine looks really nice in pictures, I'll do as advised and inspect every bit of it. It is a 2020 VE, so recent that I don't expect a lot of wear expect maybe in the shooter lane. I was just wondering if it was possible to know for sure if the game had 200 or 4000 plays. Never mind, I'll just get it if it looks nice, I've been wanting to play that game at home for some time.

bonne idée ! flip sympa, très simple, mais de la pure adrénaline et en instantané

Do you have to collect all the shield icons to start Jericho? If so 2 of the shield icons are in the outlanes...which I assume means that you must drain a ball on both sides to actually light up ALL the required shields?

Which leaves you with one ball left to achieve the mode?

This may be a stupid question but in pinball in general is seems odd/cruel to force a ball drain to achieve part of a goal.

You just have to go over any of the inlanes. So the top two near the pops or the bottom for. You can move the shields with flipper presses.

Can someone tell me where i can find these magnet covers/protectors? They look bigger than the usual and they fit just nice.
Thanks

Hi Everyone.

A friend has an original IM which has a dead flipper (right). I can't find a manual anywhere for this.

Can someone share the listing of driver transistor assignment please? He pulled the board and brought it over but just testing the transistors in circuit (board disconnected), they all diode test the same so I will just have to remove the transistor in question.

Let me know what you have, thanks.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~`
Update: I've found it so here is a copy of the coils and driver transistor locations:

pasted_image (resized).png

Who else is in for the Monger decal?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ironman-iron-monger-decal#post-6959674

Hey gang helping a friend with their IM (2010). The upper post will always pop up immediately on the plunge, regardless of left flipper press. Shooter lane switch is fine in switch test. They are on 1.83 and doing an update today. Anyone know if this was a code issue in the prior version or what else to check on this? No other switches seem to be closed in the switch test. Thanks in advance!