(Topic ID: 88610)

Iron Man Club: Adrenaline Junkies Welcome!


By RobT

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 4,081 posts
  • 357 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by evileye
  • Topic is favorited by 124 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 850 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

78097760-D9E5-4A1A-B98C-001303DF8AB7 (resized).jpeg
86B37B14-C905-49B6-BF42-9D5BD25C3AAA (resized).jpeg
IMG_3648 (resized).JPG
IMVE (resized).JPG
90136A73-220E-4C70-9C75-2B5DC3077BB4 (resized).jpeg
5D8231B5-4710-4BE4-A1E2-8848DEAFAA08 (resized).jpeg
36C18570-C4EE-4FF7-B772-25D86DC7BAE1 (resized).jpeg
17EC0267-954E-478D-AC91-1F5CB663C970 (resized).jpeg
1_ar7TTNJq4LHgJ6UT0S9-ag.gif
20200430_190358 (resized).jpg
5579E72F-A518-4154-9BC8-CE182CE9A6D1 (resized).jpeg
16112A47-F04C-4A13-9EC8-E94C7896C748 (resized).jpeg
Screenshot_20200423-141218_Chrome (resized).jpg
Slap (resized).jpg
IMG_3319 (resized).JPG
IMG_20200418_133042 (resized).jpg

There are 4081 posts in this topic. You are on page 82 of 82.
#4051 16 days ago
Quoted from DaveH:

Did some of the VE games come without the plastic leg standoffs? Or a different leg? As I recall, my decals don’t go to the bolt holes on my VE. And the plastic standoff keeps the leg away from the decal just a bit.

I believe all VE’s came with the plastic standoffs, not sure about the original. And those standoffs definitely keep the leg away from the decals, but the bolt wrinkling I was referring to are the ones elsewhere on the cabinet, like the sides (where the playfield rails mount) and around the coin door. It’s slight and doesn’t bother me, but I know some folks here demand perfection or nothing. Lol.

#4052 16 days ago
Quoted from evileye:

I believe all VE’s came with the plastic standoffs, not sure about the original. And those standoffs definitely keep the leg away from the decals, but the bolt wrinkling I was referring to are the ones elsewhere on the cabinet, like the sides (where the playfield rails mount) and around the coin door. It’s slight and doesn’t bother me, but I know some folks here demand perfection or nothing. Lol.

I never really even look in that detail. I did have my IM at the end of an open line for a while, and the light from the windows would reflect, and I'd say "Damn, that is a well done graphic on the VE".

Quoted from Meegis:

Agreed. And I have both iron Man and Tron side by side in my lineup each with a dedicated sub.

I used to. But after 7 wonderful years, Tron went bye bye. I find 7 years is really my limit with games. Some last a bit longer, but at that point they are not really getting played. I think the only game I'd officially not sell is Getaway. Everything else does its time here and moves on (hopefully in better condition than it arrived).

#4053 15 days ago
Quoted from DaveH:

I did have my IM at the end of an open line for a while, and the light from the windows would reflect, and I'd say "Damn, that is a well done graphic on the VE".

Agreed, it really pops when light catches it at the right angle. Love the effect, and unfortunately it cannot be captured properly in pictures. Must be seen in person to truly appreciate it.

#4054 15 days ago
Quoted from DaveH:

But after 7 wonderful years, Tron went bye bye. I find 7 years is really my limit with games. Some last a bit longer, but at that point they are not really getting played. Everything else does its time here and moves on (hopefully in better condition than it arrived).

Ive had Tron Ironman and Avatar since release still can’t see myself selling them. Had plenty of others come and go though but love the fast paced brutality of these 3.

#4055 15 days ago
Quoted from J85M:

Ive had Tron Ironman and Avatar since release still can’t see myself selling them. Had plenty of others come and go though but love the fast paced brutality of these 3.

I love those myself. You like that style of game, try Transformers. It is the same gameplay.

#4056 14 days ago
Quoted from HIPPY:

I love those myself. You like that style of game, try Transformers. It is the same gameplay.

Not...

#4057 13 days ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Trying to change the magnet cores on my game. Any advice on how to keep the core locked down so I can apply torque on the locking nut?

Just joined the club!

Can anyone link where the cores for the non 2020 version can be found? Ive found the coil but not the core.

#4058 13 days ago
Quoted from scruffypinball:

Just joined the club!
Can anyone link where the cores for the non 2020 version can be found? Ive found the coil but not the core.

Pinballlife usually has magnet cores.

#4059 13 days ago

Somebody have actual rubber list for VE?

Also who knows how works super skill shot on last version of game code?

#4060 12 days ago
Quoted from scruffypinball:

Just joined the club!
Can anyone link where the cores for the non 2020 version can be found? Ive found the coil but not the core.

https://www.pinballlife.com/magnet-core-plug.html

#4061 10 days ago
Quoted from DaveH:

Welcome to the club!
It isn't just that I love a subwoofer for IM, I think it is almost required. The bass line when the ball in the shooter lane is just lost without it. IM and Tron should be mandatory. Other games can benefit, but those two really need it (Tron just for the start of LightCycle).

Just hooked up the Polk 10 subwoofer , I see what you mean about the bass line , big improvement!
hooked up LOTR to the other sub input, adds a lot to that as well.

Planning on sharing the subwoofer with twd as well , as long as all 3 machines are not on at the same time I can not see any drawback to them sharing the subwoofer .

#4062 10 days ago
Quoted from pinballjj:

Just hooked up the Polk 10 subwoofer , I see what you mean about the bass line , big improvement!
hooked up LOTR to the other sub input, adds a lot to that as well.
Planning on sharing the subwoofer with twd as well , as long as all 3 machines are not on at the same time I can not see any drawback to them sharing the subwoofer .

I've run dual connection with both games running before, if you have enough, it shouldn't be too noticeable

#4063 9 days ago
Quoted from pinballjj:

Just hooked up the Polk 10 subwoofer , I see what you mean about the bass line , big improvement!
hooked up LOTR to the other sub input, adds a lot to that as well.
Planning on sharing the subwoofer with twd as well , as long as all 3 machines are not on at the same time I can not see any drawback to them sharing the subwoofer .

i use 1 woofer with 2 games. 1 uses the left input, the other the right. Can never have issues. 3 games in 1 woofer is a risk in my book.

#4064 9 days ago
Quoted from monkeyboypaul:

i use 1 woofer with 2 games. 1 uses the left input, the other the right. Can never have issues. 3 games in 1 woofer is a risk in my book.

risk to the subwoofer?

#4065 8 days ago
Quoted from pinballjj:

risk to the subwoofer?

No, a risk to putting a signal from one game into the speakers of another game and back through to the sound board... even if turned off. The risk is probably low, but i wouldn’t do it either. With the 2 channels in the subwoofer (left and right) there is circuitry in the sub to prevent the signal from one pin “backflowing” for lack of a better term to the other pin. To do three inputs, you would have at least 2 cross wired together for most subs that only have 2 inputs. This all assumes you are taking the signal from the pin speaker and not through a 3rd party board (pinwoofer?). I’m not sure how those do it and maybe can accommodate multiple inputs?

#4066 8 days ago
Quoted from Pinzap:

No, a risk to putting a signal from one game into the speakers of another game and back through to the sound board... even if turned off. The risk is probably low, but i wouldn’t do it either. With the 2 channels in the subwoofer (left and right) there is circuitry in the sub to prevent the signal from one pin “backflowing” for lack of a better term to the other pin. To do three inputs, you would have at least 2 cross wired together for most subs that only have 2 inputs. This all assumes you are taking the signal from the pin speaker and not through a 3rd party board (pinwoofer?). I’m not sure how those do it and maybe can accommodate multiple inputs?

ah thanks , I wonder if putting a diode on each speaker wire set would suffice to prevent the "backflow "? otherwise I think I will get a passive speaker selector box for the 2 pins that will share a subwoofer input

#4067 7 days ago
Quoted from pinballjj:

ah thanks , I wonder if putting a diode on each speaker wire set would suffice to prevent the "backflow "? otherwise I think I will get a passive speaker selector box for the 2 pins that will share a subwoofer input

Just get a Pinnovators PINsmx and you can safely hook up 4 pins to a single subwoofer. I have 1 and it works great but I only have 3 pins on a single sub. I have 6 pins on 2 subs using that setup. Works great for 5 years now.

#4068 7 days ago

Does anyone have a source for alternate slingshot plastics for this game? Thanks.

#4069 7 days ago
Quoted from HIPPY:

Does anyone have a source for alternate slingshot plastics for this game? Thanks.

Don’t think I’ve seen this before. Do you have a pic?

#4070 6 days ago
Quoted from PBFan:

Just get a Pinnovators PINsmx and you can safely hook up 4 pins to a single subwoofer. I have 1 and it works great but I only have 3 pins on a single sub. I have 6 pins on 2 subs using that setup. Works great for 5 years now.

I'm too cheap and just hook them up to the lower speaker. I have ten pins hooked up this way to 3 subs - Sam, Spike, w/b... All good.

#4071 6 days ago
Quoted from Tranquilize:

I'm too cheap and just hook them up to the lower speaker. I have ten pins hooked up this way to 3 subs - Sam, Spike, w/b... All good.

Your way works, but with the pinnovators product you can control the bass levels on each game separately. The sound is also cleaner than directly hooking to the speakers.

#4072 4 days ago
Quoted from Thenewguy1337:

Are you able to adjust the iron monger sensitivity? Most of my shots against it are not counting.

Hoping to get some information on adjusting the switches to monger. Any tips? I couldnt find a post.

#4073 4 days ago

Has there every been a better designed game to kick you straight in the nuts for a missed shot?! Brutal

#4074 4 days ago
Quoted from scruffypinball:

Hoping to get some information on adjusting the switches to monger. Any tips? I couldnt find a post.

It’s a bit of a pain in my opinion. I ended up just taking the whole Monger assembly out of the game. Come to find out, the bottom of the carrier was bent out a bit and didn’t quite fit right, causing my hits to not register. I don’t think I saved any pictures of it. But really, like anything else, it starts with diagnostics.

Put the game into switch test with the Monger up. Then test very carefully with a ball and directly with your hand. Does the carrier holding the figure move easily, or does it bind up. Check all angles. Sometimes it is mechanical interference, and not just a switch. Be prepared to remove the whole mech, which means have the time to do it before you start. Examine and be careful of any washers under the plastic cover, because it has to be level when you’re done (you don’t want air balls wrecking a do or die hurry up).

With proper diags, you will eventually see why it isn’t registering and fix it.

#4075 3 days ago
Quoted from TKDalumni:

Has there every been a better designed game to kick you straight in the nuts for a missed shot?! Brutal

adding to the brutality is other than the ramps there is so much randomness of the ball returning from shots you "make" .

Does any one live or dead catch the shotgun from war machine?

#4076 3 days ago
Quoted from DaveH:

It’s a bit of a pain in my opinion. I ended up just taking the whole Monger assembly out of the game. Come to find out, the bottom of the carrier was bent out a bit and didn’t quite fit right, causing my hits to not register. I don’t think I saved any pictures of it. But really, like anything else, it starts with diagnostics.
Put the game into switch test with the Monger up. Then test very carefully with a ball and directly with your hand. Does the carrier holding the figure move easily, or does it bind up. Check all angles. Sometimes it is mechanical interference, and not just a switch. Be prepared to remove the whole mech, which means have the time to do it before you start. Examine and be careful of any washers under the plastic cover, because it has to be level when you’re done (you don’t want air balls wrecking a do or die hurry up).
With proper diags, you will eventually see why it isn’t registering and fix it.

Thank you and newovad for your suggestion. Cleaning the optos and carefully aligning the mech has it working great! Now for the cleaning and rubbers!

#4077 3 days ago
Quoted from pinballjj:

Does any one live or dead catch the shotgun from war machine?

No chance haha gotta be a dead bounce

#4078 3 days ago

Modded my 2010 IM Monger with an LED. Real easy and looks really polished. It’s tied to GI so always on, but flashes off with Monger hits. When it is off it looks factory.

I’ve read others basic walkthroughs, but I have one more Iron Monger figure and plan to take pictures or a video of actual process. I’m usually a better visual learner, fortunately I only trashed my first Monger. The rest I’m happy with.
86B37B14-C905-49B6-BF42-9D5BD25C3AAA (resized).jpeg78097760-D9E5-4A1A-B98C-001303DF8AB7 (resized).jpeg

#4079 3 days ago
Quoted from Toasterdog:

Modded my 2010 IM Monger with an LED. Real easy and looks really polished. It’s tied to GI so always on, but flashes off with Monger hits. When it is off it looks factory.
I’ve read others basic walkthroughs, but I have one more Iron Monger figure and plan to take pictures or a video of actual process. I’m usually a better visual learner, fortunately I only trashed my first Monger. The rest I’m happy with.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Wait.... How many mongers do you have?
Are you selling?

#4080 2 days ago
Quoted from Meegis:

Wait.... How many mongers do you have?
Are you selling?

I will have three extra that I will be selling to fund my two. One for me and a good friend.

However, I will be posting a DiY very soon. The Monger was the biggest expense at $30 or so on Ebay. I use one premium frosted bulb, a little 22 gauge wire, clips and epoxy. It's pretty easy

I was going to write instructions to install and then list a Monger. I certainly not getting in the mod business, so when they are gone that's it, but it's easy enough for someone to make their own down the road.

#4081 2 days ago

Those Mongers look awesome spread across the table. For a second I thought they were drones and you installed them like that somehow

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 279.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball LEDs
$ 99.00
Playfield - Other
Arcade Upkeep
$ 200.00
Lighting - Interactive
Professor Pinball
6,495 (OBO)
$ 54.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Lighted Pinball Mods
There are 4081 posts in this topic. You are on page 82 of 82.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside