Baiter has been playing mine, and it is the easiest gem shot I've played on. I'm convinced, but not 100% sure, that this has to do with the angle of the upper flipper at rest. I played at the PHOF, and the shot was nearly impossible (I never made it), and I noticed that the flipper was not aligned with the hole at the tip of the flipper...it was resting all the way left against the wall.

I'm afraid to rebuild my upper flipper for fear that I'll make the gem shot harder.

Also, my outlane posts are all the way down, which might explain why SOS is so easy.

While everyone else was trick or treating, I was treating myself...

Goodbye BSD and JM, hello NIB IMVE-VE.

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To prove it is truly NIB:

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Thank you, Weirpinball for a beautiful game. He even threw in something a little extra as a housewarming gift - a shaker motor !!!

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I cannot begin to describe how fun this game has been. I have probably played this game nearly as much in one night as I did BSD for the year. SO glad I got one. Down to two games, and I could not be happier with my selections:

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Glad to be a member of the club!!!

I own a NIB IMVE and i must say that whenever i play it I smile! Where are you guys finding new ones? Who has new ones avail. and how much are the new ones now? I have a good friend who came over and played mine and would like one also.

Thanks,
Rob

Yeah NPO. There is a whole ltmof hoopla on Pinside saying you need to have 10 games to never get bored of your pins and what not, but really if you have an IM and ACDC side by side you are good to go for a long time. Enjoy your new home!

Hey guys, I have an IMVE with 223 plays on it. The clear near the trough is chipping and cracking and I was curious if this is normal? Sorry its not a great pic, I'll try to get a better one.

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So, Weirpinball had this game for a good little while just in his inventory - never had time to open it. He has a lot of projects, and getting IMVE-VE out of its box simply was not a top priority for him. He and I got to talking, and we worked out a deal for a two-for-one trade. Really, I pretty much got lucky.

I have heard that Trent over at Tilt Amusements may still have a couple NIB left. If you want one, you need to move because they seem to be drying up, and the smaller his inventory the quicker the price on the remaining ones could go up.

It is normal. I've heard there is a protector for this, but it appears to be easily repairable with something like Hard As Nails.

It's not normal wear and tear. That is a poor clear coat job and is total bullshit. Makes me want to cancel my Iron man VE order. When is stern going to stop putting out this crap. Their is not a protector for this either. They have them for the ball eject and shooter lane not were his damage is. I have a IMVE and GOTPRO on order and I am seriously considering canceling. I guess you could get one of those full playfeild protectors and install it day one but what a pain in the ass that is. When you spend $5000 plus on a new toy you should not have to deal with shit like this.

Ok, I can end the discussion of Tron vs IM. There is no question... Tron looks way better on security cameras!

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That is a real crop from one of them. First time I saw it I thought I left Tron on. So I get it with the translite, but IM looks like it doesn't even have one.

I have 4 or 5 games that way,seems pretty normal to me. I spoke with Cliffy about that protector sometime ago and he did have plans to make one sometime in the future. You can always cut a a sheet of the cling vinyl or blue tape to protect it for now or on future games

Some progress last night on the armor. Should have it all wired in today.

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This clearcoat chipping problem seems to be a relatively new thing. Maybe Stern is using a new vendor for the clear? My friend's MET had a huge chunk of clear crack and come off near the Sparky magnet.

Just throw some Mylar down on that area and you'll be good to go. You'll never see it. Just keep on playing bud

exactly what I was thinking. sucks to deal with, but also can be pretty easy to deal with. unfortunately it matters most if you're reselling to a picky buyer...

Overreact much?

Big time! I just had a look at my IM. I have the same chipping. I needed to clean the game anyway, and now I see I need to plop down a bit of Mylar by the trough.

Although I really wonder if he actually has both on order...

Yes I have them on order and when they get here I am going to have to put down full playfield protectors apparently which is fucking great. The sad thing is I am going to just sit back and take it like the rest of us because I do love the game play of ironman and GOTPRO looks like it plays great. I just wish sterns quality control was better.

That's an overreaction...balls consistently smashing into the open edge of a playfield will cause issues like this no matter what quality or depth of clear you place on it....It's the same thing that happens in scoops and shooter lanes. The faster you sling a ball down the middle causing rattle in the ball trough, the more damage you will see, and Stern games in general are faster than those from all previous manufacturers.

Iron Man is more prone to this issue because it has 2 magnets and a kickback that increase that force by slinging balls into the trough. If you don't like speed and the damage it can cause, buy an EM. Otherwise take some preventative steps like coating the area with Hard As Nails and/or Mylar and contacting Cliffy/Mantis about protectors... they will develop brand new protectors for you if there is enough demand.

Thanks for the responses guys. I guess I'll put some hard as nails on it then mylar on top and stick some foam on the back of the trough to lessen the impact of the ball kicking back into the edge of the playfield. Does anyone know anything about hard as nails possibly yellowing over time? I've never used it.

Not that my opinion holds more weight than any other, but if you are putting down a full playfield protector in response to seeing wear that is not even visible (form a player's position) on routed games... this might not be the right hobby for you.

Clear chipping off with chunks of art is BS, but at the trough entry I could care less. If "trough entry" pictures become a thing when selling a game this hobby will have officially jumped the shark.

Finished up the new armor and the wiring for the lights. Came out pretty good.

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Trough entry is the new shooter lane.

Clear chipping like that shows adhesion problems. I'd hope not to see similar wear around the magnets. Don't remove the factory Mylar!

I've used it for a few years, no yellowing... lacquer which does yellow over time takes even more years to do so, so time will tell.

Ok, maybe I am tripping or something, but I have noticed my WarMachine figure is missing his shoulder mounted minigun all together. Did IM ship without the WM gun? Did IMVE ship without it? Did I just get unlucky with my NIB game? I'm a bit confused here.

I see Whiplash's whips are in the goodie bag (I am leaving mine stapled shut), but I do not see War Machine's shoulder gun.

Can someone clear this up for me? Thanks!

I dont think the original had the gun. (Not sure) But it might of becase it was an action figure.

Then Stern molded a solid figure for the VE, so its gone. I know that the VE definitely did NOT have the cannon.

Why leave the bag stapled? Put them in the game. It looks much better. Unless you are adding EL wire and Led chest lights instead.

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I am adding the EL wire exactly like your original thread shows in the forums. Thank you so much for showing how to do this mod. Did you run into any troubles/difficulties/gotcha moments? Some have said if you don't do it correctly, the EL wire will be dim - can you vouch for this or the reasoning why?

IM 2010 war machine has weapons.

Before attaching, test the wires to make sure you’re getting your desired brightness. Under normal usage, EL wire should have 3,000 to 5,000 hours of glowing life before the phosphor fades to half of its normal brightness.

But no issues. Just split the wire into a "T" to get the two whips. Cover in heat shrink so you only see the part tht you need to.

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He will now...

Got this one and I'll be LED'ing him up. Rather than pay $40, I figured I'd experiment with this one. Worst comes to worst, I now have the machine gun AND the cannon .

ebay.com link: Iron Man 2 War Machine 3 75 Action Figure

Got my IM VE NIB Saturday. Spent several hours working on it before playing my first game. Added a Polk PSW10 sub, a full Pinbits protector kit, a pair of Cliffy switch protectors, red Superbands, clear Superbands mini post rubbers, a full Blitz wax job, a set of service rails, washers for the leg bolts, a shaker motor, a Comet DMD glare screen and a set of super shiny balls. On my 4th game the right flipper stopped working. Upon further investigation I discovered a loose fuse under the playfield. Man this thing is fast! I set it to free play and set the special to a free ball, and set Iron Monger to "hard". Been playing a lot today and had one great game where on my first ball I got a full 35,000,000 point "Do or die" (my first D.O.D.) And then got double scoring during Jericho. Also got a free ball awarded from War Machine (I think) for a total score of 134,142,880. I love this game!IMG_1959.JPGIMG_1963.JPGIMG_1965.JPGIMG_1981.JPGIMG_1988.JPG

Check out the set of balls Iron Monger has! This happened on my 10th game. What a hoot!IMG_1980.JPG

I have that happen quite a bit on my IM. May be because I play it so much!

Hmmm, I haven't seen that even once in 5 years. Weird.

This has happened 3 times already in about 40 plays so far. A buddy told me it was a slope issue. So I jacked up the back legs about halfway. It happened again. I stop the game I am playing , pull the glass and physically pull the ball out , then Monger slams down into his hole. Am I doing this wrong ? Do you lift the monger through settings, or just pull the ball out ?

regular switch delay based Ball search will move your monger up, releasing your balls. be ready...

I don't think it has anything to do with slope, it's simply timing of ball getting squeezed/clamped.

So , if it gets stuck under the Monger, just wait for a ball search ? I freak out a little , because I think the motor is trying to pull down the Monger and is stripping the gears in the motor. I turn the game off, pull the ball out and he drops, kalunk . I dont know which way is better. sooo.......just wait for a ball search ? Best way ?

I'm not a mechanic or engineer- but I can only guess the gear friction is minimal. My preference is ball search- especially since I get to continue my game. Several years from now we may all need to lube or otherwise maintain our monger motors, regardless of how often the balls got stuck.

If you are not waiting for ball search, and instead turning the game off and pulling the balls out manually, you could instead choose to turn coindoor ball saver on. This will allow you to open up the game, remove the ball, or drain it, or place it in the shooter lane, replace the glass and lockdown bar and resume play on the current ball. There will not be a loss of ball even if the ball ends up in the drain trough.

Just wait for Ball search Chuck. I had that problem maybe 5 times on the 100s of games I put on that IM. Ball search just takes 40 or so seconds to click on and it'll free them.

Looking forward to joining the club. I'm getting one from JJ at Game Exchange. I think it's supposed to get made some time in December, but with Stern having an issue getting parts I'm guessing that could get pushed back into January.

What is this coindoor ball saver you talk about?

Go to standard adjustment menu. Scroll until you find the title. Factory is OFF. Turn it to ON. Now if the ball is stuck, opening the door causes the extra ball insert to blink, like what happens at the beginning of a ball or during a multiball start. This means that any balls that drain, will return to play, and the game will resume as normal. This allows the operator/TD to open the game without causing balls to drain and be lost forever due to 50 V power cutting off. The balls cradled on a flipper will drain, but come back. Try it.

In tourney play it has to be ON.

Of course some people use it as a cheat to save a ball draining normally as a method to get the ball back by quickly opening the door. But that's another topic .

How have your never done that? I've done it a couple times in several months. And yes just wait for the ball search.

The mech is motor lifted, gravity dropped. If anything stops it on the way down, it doesn't affect the motor/gears at all.

New to the club - was wondering about the setting for the Light show. Has anyone replaced the LED flashers with incandescent to get the pulsing/fading back? Was thinking of doing this and getting and LED OCD for the inserts.

Also has anyone installed one of the under cabinet flasher kits and have their flashers that they attached to for ground stop working? All other flashers still work including others that have the flasher kit color grounds installed... Thanks!

I have an original run Iron man with incandescent GI and Flashers, LED inserts + LED OCD, set as incandescent so the fading lightshow in attract is normal. Looks great, to me anyway.

My under cabinet flasher kit from Rock Pinball works great, no issues.

But will it work if the GI is LED, the inserts are LED and flasher are incandescent?

Found the reason for this - had nothing to do with the undercab flashers.... Stern installed the new low voltage (5v) flashers from the newer spike games into this one. The 5V flashers are not big fans of the 13V