(Topic ID: 215735)

Iron Maiden Mod Thread


By Lermods

2 years ago



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  • 171 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 months ago by Mahoneyj
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#441 1 year ago

I made a lens tree with matched colored lenses for the white mode lights. It attaches to the two existing screws for the light board and color-coordinates the mode lights with the mode inserts while in each mode. Selling them for $14 + $4 USA shipping.
lens-mod-d2 (resized).jpg

Added 18 months ago:

EDIT: After making a bunch of these and realizing how long it takes to make them, I adjusted the price to $20.

2 weeks later
#481 1 year ago
Quoted from Hdmike444:

Where did you get the piece of mind eddie? Who makes it? Thx

You can buy it straight from Stern. Same one in the Prem/LEs.

http://costore.com/sternpinball/productthumbnails.asp

#484 1 year ago
Quoted from NorCalRealtor:

Nice paint job on that topper though!

I really, really like the metallic paint on the sculpted part, but it makes the blue on the backboard part look wrong. Also, the eyes would benefit from some 99 cent store sunglasses lenses being inset into the dark to harmonize that area and finish the look.

#488 1 year ago
Quoted from tilted81:

Got another link? Also interested

Confused. The Stern figurines are at that link. Just click on it.

4 weeks later
#511 1 year ago
Quoted from Fytr:

I wanted to highlight the drop target bank a bit since it's kind of invisible with black targets at a sharp angle away from the player on this game so I installed some of these nifty transulcent drop targets and added some LED lighting behind them.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
They really pop now!
Details: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/translucent-drop-targets-from-pinball-mods-vid-s-review#post-4758185

If you're going that way, I'd dial the LEDs back to warm white and print the Eddie art from the original targets on projector transparency and make 3 translucent decals from that so you keep everything essentially the same, except backlit lit. If you want to really go crazy, have one LED for each target and have them turn off when the drop target falls.

OR color match the inserts with a different LED on each target so one target shines green, one purple, and one yellow so the drops are a continuation of the lights in front of them. Still put a translucent sticker on them, though. They look naked without them.
eddie targets (resized).jpg

#513 1 year ago
Quoted from Hdmike444:

Are the original target decals available, I think lit up with the proper colors and the decals they would look great

They're on a thicker vinyl, so they won't transmit much if any light. And, knowing Stern, you'd have to buy a whole set of decals for the whole machine just to get those 3. You're better off scanning yours and making your own that are translucent.

#525 1 year ago
Quoted from Hdmike444:

Ok so I got my drop targets but didn’t look under the playfield first. It is a board as opposed to individual leds. Does anyone know how to tie into the game to get the correct leds on the correct targets. I know I can have then colored correctly and lit all the time but I’d prefer on and off with the game if possible.
Any help is appreciated. I am not a wiring schematic guy so I can’t look at the manual and remotely figure it out.

Are you tying the insert LEDs to LEDs behind each target?

#528 1 year ago
Quoted from Hdmike444:

Yes I’d like to add correct leds to light the corresponding targets but have no idea how to go about adding the leds. I don’t want to blow up the game trying to figure it out. I’m sure it’s a matter of adding a type of male/ female adaptor and wiring the correct color leds but I’m at a loss as to how.

I would say you are better off leaving that investigation to someone else, then. Spike is especially touchy and you could blow up node boards if you're not careful while trying to figure it out.

But yes, you would likely just tap the same leads going to each while LED on the inserts and have that lead also go to your corresponding drop target LED. I doubt the extra load of 3 more LEDs would be too much for that circuit, but that's another consideration to check out.

#529 1 year ago

Just a preview of something else I'm working on for Iron Maiden. I want to start by getting that diorama on the left into 3D. Anubis was the hard part, so now I just have to do the columns on the left and right of him and figure out coloring/lighting. It's an encouraging start, though.

initial_test_small (resized).jpg
#532 1 year ago
Quoted from thewool:

Very nice!
Will you be doing something with the torches? I know that other missing options are out there for these.

I haven't tried it yet, but I want to see how bowls (sconces) work on the columns once I get that part made. Bowls with clear "flames" lit from below with the LED boards could look very cool. If not, I can do torches, I just think they're not very cool-looking.

#535 1 year ago
Quoted from Hdmike444:

Looks good, will it work on the premium?

Depends on how I mount it. I'll need to test it on a Premium, but that's the goal, having it work on all of them.

#537 1 year ago
Quoted from bigdaddy07:

If you pull that off, go ahead and sign me up for one. The one in your picture looks great.

With the right color plastic and lighting accent it will look even better.

#544 1 year ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Damn that looks awesome. Did you have to do the STL from scratch or start with something else? I am out of my depth trying to model stuff

That was from scratch. It's not exactly like the one on the plastic though. It has elements from a lot of different Anubis drawings, but the impression is similar enough that it works.

#546 1 year ago
Quoted from dts:

It's pretty cool in that color, like a stone statue or monument. But the ancient Egyptians did paint everything. Maybe two options?

It is a statue/monument, but it's supposed to be part of the limestone pyramid, so I would expect it to be a light yellow/brownish color. Once I get the columns and walls adjacent to it modeled, I'll work on coloring/material.

#565 1 year ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

Ideally....I would have the spitfire lights flash when someone hits the right ramp, though I think that gets much more complicated, though someone has made a spitfire mod that does that which is for sale (I just don't like the model spitfire they used).
Now that I'm thinking about it, I also have the mezelmods obelisk dome cover ->
https://mezelmods.com/collections/iron-maiden-legacy/products/iron-maiden-pinball-obelisk-dome-cover?variant=12219491876980
On the Pro model....the light is only a simple flasher and...doesn't go off that often. So...I don't get to see the obelisk lit up that much. I think on the Prem/LE its a RGB that turns on during most of the modes and stays on?
Now I'm thinking of adding a 3 SMD led red strip from comet and putting it in there so its always lit up, and the flasher will still go off of course for a bit of visual feedback.
What might be cooler....is having one of comet's fire LED bulbs always on. -> https://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/fire.htm?1=1&CartID=0
The thing is...I would need to stick in a bulb socket and might not have enough space. Might look really cool though.
Also, anybody know where to get the foam tape that mezelmods and everyone else uses on most of their mods?

I have no idea what other modders use, but I swear by 3M extreme mounting tape. You can get it at Target and home improvement stores:

https://www.target.com/p/3m-extreme-mounting-tape-1-x60/-/A-14413487

I don't recommend getting it from Amazon or Ebay as they have a big problem with counterfeit product and you're likely to get some that LOOKS real, but has terrible hold.

#592 1 year ago
Quoted from mandelbloom:

Anyone know where to order the premium LE figures now ? Stern Store seems to begone

You can do it through Stern if you call someone like Terry at pinball life with the part number, he will get a price for you and order them.

#597 1 year ago
Quoted from Thomo666:

Install some Pin Monk gel mods into my LE today. They have made the machine look the way it should have been from the start. Thanks vireland.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks for posting your install! Looks great down under, too!

#609 1 year ago
Quoted from mandelbloom:

Hey guys I am going to order the figures , where do I find this clear plastic that piece of mind Eddie is mounted to? I don’t seem to have it in my Pro .
[quoted image]

It's part of a kit Stern will send you to stop a ball trap by that pop bumper. Just ask for the ball trap kit for the upper left bumper.

#611 1 year ago
Quoted from mandelbloom:

Awesome thanks so just email support ? Will do !

I usually call (1-800-KICKERS), but email probably works too.

2 weeks later
#622 1 year ago
Quoted from Graysonsdad:

$25 usd plus shipping would have been my expectation to order one premade based on previous mods I have ordered.
It's basically the vengeance explosion mod on star trek minus any custom 3d printing

Time is money. I learned that the hard way by initially massively under-pricing the lens brackets I made. Once I had to make a bunch I realized I was way under-priced. Lermods has been doing this a long time so I assume that they, like Mezel, have a pretty good handle on the correct market price right off the bat, where morons like me have to stumble around and figure it out one at a time.

If this is too high, the market will shrug and the price will change or it will disappear. The correct price is whatever people will pay. You don't need to have everyone in the party bus, just enough to make it profitable.

#625 1 year ago
Quoted from Wotto:

Many pinballers appreciate the efforts of all mod makers and happily pay .
Looking forward to my delivery PinMonk. More orders a little way down the track too

Heh! I wasn't bucking for an endorsement, but thanks!

I was more or less backing up the fact that until you've done some of these and get a bigger picture of all that's involved in getting them into people's hands it's very easy to under-estimate costs. I'd trust that Lermods has the right pricing out of the gate on a new item. Experience counts.

#628 1 year ago
Quoted from Graysonsdad:

I understand all of this and I'm sorry to hear pinmonk under priced his lenses as the are great custom pieces.
Time is money and all that jazz but this mod was soooo easy and cheap or I wouldnt have opened my mouth.
Drill a hole in the orb, insert led of your choice, minimal basic soldering required.
Loving and have been heavy promoting the maiden tree vic

Appreciated, but I wasn't busking for boo hoos, either.

I was just using the example of when I started selling the lens trees and brackets where I vastly under-priced them once I realized everything that was involved. I figured it out, so no tears here. The overall support and demand for something I didn't even intend to get into has been pretty great. Plus, I can be a snob now and sniff when I see an un-Monk'd Iron Maiden machine in video, "Pfft. It looks so...WRONG."

1 week later
#672 1 year ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Here is purple in my game, brighter than the stock led and really stands out.

[quoted image]

What's the wavelength (nm) of that purple? Blues and purples are on the UV end of the spectrum and can damage retinas with continued exposure over time.

#675 1 year ago
Quoted from Lermods:

I think you need a lot of exposure to colors to have any impact. As nice as the orb mod is, I don’t expect anyone to stare at it for hours, it’s also diffused, reducing any impact further. If anyone is truly concerned about the effects of led colors, I’ll dig up the wavelength as I’ve got it somewhere, at least for the purple we use as that is a custom made color for us.

You don't have to stare directly at it. It only has to be in your field of vision. Publishing the wavelength is a responsible move and would help people make informed decisions about adding to their natural UV exposure or choosing a different color to avoid the issue entirely.

#678 1 year ago
Quoted from MJW:

Is UV the same as black light?

UV is a range spanning about 200nm on the light spectrum, black light is on the visible light side of the UV range. 450nm is right at the upper edge of black light.

#679 1 year ago

Thanks for publishing it. For this application, it's not nearly as large a consideration or potential exposure as on the pinstadiums that I suspect are in the same range for the "UV" part of them, but they don't publish the actual wavelength specs for their product, which is not cool.

#681 1 year ago
Quoted from Tmezel:

The mod we are making uses the existing Stern Pinball light.

People can make their own choices, and most colors are great. I only get concerned when I see the deep blues and purples because they've become more prevalent and I don't think most people know the long-term exposure risks, especially to young eyes. That's why when I see "UV" kits or blues and purples I encourage publication of the wavelength of the lights on that mod so people can make an informed decision. Lermods is the first one I've seen that actually published that information for their purple LED mod and they should be commended for it.

#683 1 year ago
Quoted from Tmezel:

What wavelength is dangerous for us owning pinball machines? Please advise.

Generally speaking, the closer you get to the UV wavelength range of 200-400nm, the worse exposure over time is for your eyes (and your DNA/skin). It's the same reason they put warnings on black lights about exposure because they can cause eye damage and/or DNA mutation/premature skin aging.

That said, in a pinball with spot usage that's not always on, it would be less cut and dry of a case than an always-on or mostly-always on situation. But more information about the specs of the light wavelength in given products with blue and purple lighting is always better so people can weigh the risks and make an informed choice.

Here's a wavelength chart I grabbed off the internet to help visualize the light wavelengths on the spectrum:

light-wavelength-frequency (resized).png
#692 1 year ago
Quoted from modfather:

The only way DEEP purple light could possibly damage your eyes if it was the only light source ( in a pitch black room ) staring at it for long periods of time. Hence a black light fluorescent bulb in a pitch black room smokin weed staring at Jimi Hendrix posters all night long. Once the introduction of all other visable light forms ( the longer wavelengths of light ) , It washes out the shorter ,tighter wavelengths , thus making it safe for all of us. To say that a small UV led light could possibly damage your eyes within the vast array of a thousand other full spectrum lights is ridiculous personally. So lighten up and enjoy the UV love.

Not strictly true. I'm not being alarmist, but people need to know there ARE risks to light in that area of the spectrum and make informed decisions. There are many studies going on regarding light towards the UV end of the spectrum (especially on blue LED since it's become pervasive in consumer electronics) and studies as recent as last year have shown as little as 8 lux of blue light has a negative effect. 8 lux is so dim you can barely tell it's on.

#694 1 year ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

Quick question.....I got the replacement coil in. But...is everyone just soldering in place essentially or are they tracing the wires and cutting all the zip ties to disconnect the coil wires completely and do the soldering on a table?

I just unsoldered the wires from the old coil then soldered it onto the same lug on the new coil (one at a time so as not to mix them up), then mounted the new coil. Be sure to clip off the diode if your replacement coil has one running across the lugs.

#697 1 year ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

Right...but I'm saying, are you leaving the power wires to the coil still attached under the PF or removing the wires so you can do the soldering away from the PF?

On location, so I do it on the machine. I don't disconnect from the harness.

#706 1 year ago
Quoted from gliebig:

They just put an indoor Jurassic mini golf near me. It's a giant room full of 100's of blacklights and it's staffed by poor saps that have to do a whole shift in there.

Sounds like OSHA would love to have a talk with them.

1 week later
#729 1 year ago
Quoted from mbott1701:

here’s where I put my spot for piece of mind Eddie.[quoted image][quoted image]

That's a ball trap for an airball since it can't freely roll out if it gets up there. I'd just get the free Pro ball trap kit from Stern and mount Eddie to that, like he is on the Prem/LE.

#731 1 year ago
Quoted from mbott1701:

Thanks, vireland. I saw your post about that kit earlier in the thread. I ordered one from Pinball Life, just had to wait until they got one from Stern. Hopefully it will be here tomorrow.

Pretty sure Stern gives them out free if you call tech support and are the first buyer. At least they used to...

#735 1 year ago
Quoted from DrMark12PA:

Would a premium need the ball trap kit? I'm planning on doing the spotlight install this evening

The Premium and LE have it already since it's what Piece of Mind eddie is zip tied to.

1 week later
#746 1 year ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

no , no it doesn't. We all know what games look like when people do this to them, and none of them look good. Especially when you have a game with detailed artwork and shading. you are ruining all of the artwork. Nobody should ever put colored lights in ANY GI socket. Horrible, horrible horrible.

Nobody...ever? Even the factory? X-MEN, KISS, Metallica, Munsters use alternating colored GI to change the mood lighting of the game really effectively. It can be done well, though I am not a huge fan of the Iron Maiden Premium/LE red GI.

#749 1 year ago
Quoted from Hdmike444:

I love when the game goes red in fear of the dark!

I *like* the idea, but I think it's too deep a shade of red and makes it hard to see in the mode when compared to other machines with GI light changes in modes. A lighter shade overall or 50/50 with dark and medium reds and it would be great.

1 week later
#754 1 year ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

Posted in the owners thread as well:
Is it possible to retrofit the orb target from the premium/Le into the pro to replace the standard standup target?

You could *maybe* do a very small X-Men captive ball thing, but that would be a pretty major redesign. There's no way for it to work like the Prem/LE without drilling, and I don't recommend it.

#759 1 year ago
Quoted from RGAires:

[quoted image]

What's the point? That's just a target like the one there already. It's not going to register hits from the sides and back like the newton ball does in the Prem/LE.

#763 1 year ago
Quoted from Billy16:

Being able to score from the side might just be worth the price of the Premium (and the hassle of maintaining the mech). I get way more Mummy letters, jackpots and orb hits from the side than I do head-on.

Having played both extensively, the Premium/LE is definitely the preferred experience.

#767 1 year ago
Quoted from RGAires:

That is also a valid question, the durability of it, because like you have said, is very close to the flippers.
Are you going to drill it?
This is close of what we need... and still no drill...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/x-men-le-wolverine-newton-bracket-by-mezelmods

The problem is the X-Men newton mod relies on the existing switch position and hole, which means the ball will jut forward, likely into the path of the ball to the lower spinner, potentially altering it.

I really don't think there's a good solution other than saving up for a HUO Premium and upgrading if you're dissatisfied with the lower orb target.

#772 1 year ago
Quoted from LargemouthAss:

Does anyone have the PinGraffix Powerbladez for Maiden? If so how do you like it? I have been thinking about adding them but I have one of the toppers Delta9 made that uses the same bill-validator power socket that the power bladez use. Is there a reliable splitter that could allow both to run without damaging the machine?

Spike is a touchy thing so not sure stacking mods is a good idea there, but you could always run it off the service outlet in the backbox.

1 week later
#788 1 year ago
Quoted from Bing_Party:

Just got my premium with a few mods. One being the shaker motor. Holy cow it’s so strong that it’s rattling the back glass and just sounds rough. It’s a stern unit. Anyone else have this issue? Did you reset both weights or just the one side?
My GB shaker does not have this issue and I will probably look at how that’s positioned.

You sure it's a Stern one? Sounds more like Cointaker.

You can reduce the shaker amount in the settings or change the offset of the weight on one side to smooth it out.

#790 1 year ago
Quoted from Bing_Party:

I bought the machine from cointaker but they advised it was a stern motor. If it is a cointaker would resolving the issue be resolved with the weight being offset? It’s set to the lightest use on the machine

If it's a cointaker motor, it will always have unpleasant shaking even if you offset the weights. Is the plastic cover clear? Any markings on it?

#795 1 year ago
Quoted from Bing_Party:

Looks like a stern shaker motor #041-5029-04
[quoted image]

I have no idea why you're getting such rough shaking, then. Stern and Pinball Life shakers are in the "just right" zone, usually. Good news is loosening the screw and turning the weight on one side (only) to change the offset should make it less extreme.

#799 1 year ago
Quoted from finnflash:

So do you want them off set to shake more?

Rotating one so it's more offset makes it shake less vigorously.

1 month later
#807 11 months ago
Quoted from shaub:

I made a rule card for IMDN, I haven't made a matching price card yet. It's definitely not perfect but it looks better than the stock card at least. Anyways, figured I might as well share it.[quoted image]

If you ghost the background a bit and use a san-serif font it will be much easier to read.

#813 11 months ago
Quoted from Indypin:

Just posted this in the other thread, but I received this mod in the mail for my IMDN premium I have on order. Don’t have the pin yet, but I had to get this mod. Highly recommended and shipped by PinMonk in a box that looks like it was made to house an expensive piece of jewelry. Like another Pinside, I had my daughter (who is very artistic and has a steadier hand than her old man) paint this up for me and I think she did a FANTASTIC job on it. Can’t wait to get my pin and a special THANK YOU to PinMonk for making and shipping these. (A before and after shot)[quoted image][quoted image]

Wow, looks great, especially the fine painting of the small gem detail on the chest band. Definitely post once you get your machine and install it!

3 months later
#838 8 months ago
Quoted from hoby1:

Just got my armor back from powder coat. Illusion orange with blue t molding and flipper buttons.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That matches really well, but now I'm not sure about the blue T-moulding.

#840 8 months ago
Quoted from hoby1:

Thats easy to change . If I would may go to black as orange may look too gaudy and bright.

Yeah, hard to know what the right answer is with your new armor without experimenting. Orange or Red would be my guess, but no way to really tell without trying. Photoshop wouldn't help much.

#849 8 months ago
Quoted from hoby1:

Went with the orange and it match’s perfectly.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Yep, that was the right answer for that armor. Great art match, too.

2 months later
#854 5 months ago
Quoted from MJW:

Anyone drill out these rivots when putting a prem or alternate eddy on Pops to replace the plastic one on a Pro? Seems like would be a cleaner look.[quoted image]

Personally, I'd set that aside in a baggie and have Terry at pinball life order the plastic cap from the Prem/LE (that doesn't have the slot or rivets). Shouldn't cost that much and that way you have a situation that is totally reversible.

EDIT: I'd still check with Terry to see if it can be ordered individually, but it may only be available as part of the plastics set for that machine, and it's spendy.

#857 5 months ago
Quoted from Billy16:

I've been waiting for someone to make some cooler pop plastic caps...

It's not easy to make them look right, and it's not just the caps, but there's a trim piece in front of the front one that has to be done or it all looks wrong.

#861 5 months ago
Quoted from Billy16:

Sounds like a job for a talented modder...

I've been on and off that project for a while. Same thing for the columns with torches that I worked on and set aside a number of times before finally getting it right (they're in final testing), so probably back to these again to see if I can make them work and look right.

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