(Topic ID: 215735)

Iron Maiden Mod Thread


By Lermods

2 years ago



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  • 864 posts
  • 171 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 months ago by Mahoneyj
  • Topic is favorited by 121 Pinsiders

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#111 1 year ago

I wasn't thrilled with how dark the tomb entrance is on my LE so I added a Warm White 3 LED strip that I had behind the plastic. The glue on the strip holds onto the top of the 2 mounting screws on the bracket behind the plastic. I removed one of the GI lights from the top of the backboard and use an adaptor socket in it to power the strip.

Looks much better and the light is emitted from behind the plastic which looks really nice. Hard to capture quality photos:
lup (resized).JPGDtop (resized).JPG

I had one more 3-led WW strip so I attached to facing down on top of the Pharaoh plastic. It adds a bit more light to the top of his head. Also used a socket adaptor and removed another GI bulb from the top of the backboard plastic to power it.

ptop (resized).JPGPfrnt (resized).JPG

Combined I think it adds a bit more of a dynamic element to the lighting where the feature pieces are lit brighter than the background.

I had previously replaced the cool white bulbs in the backboard and under most of the plastics with Warm Whites ones as well to better match the coloration on the plastics and playfield and provide an overall warmer tone.

front (resized).JPG
1 week later
#152 1 year ago
Quoted from PersonX99:

I've been using opto trigger dongles and break-out boards to do this on newer pins. Much safer because you don't have to power them from the boards (it's optional). I've installed in GB, KISS, Star Wars, and AFMr. Still need to build one fore WoZ and MMr, but my board for Iron Maiden is ready to be installed as soon as my machine arrives.

Very cool. Would this be similar to the Pinduino approach? Can you provide any details?

2 weeks later
#193 1 year ago
Quoted from charles4400:

Awesome price, you definitely scored on that trooper!!!

Well that kind of depends on how it was, uh, “used”...

#197 1 year ago
Quoted from hoby1:

It was perfect except sword was broke it center. One drop of thin CA on both sides and its perfect..... so perfect you cant even tell and its still flexable. It was also 35 shipped sorry .
Was one heck of a deal !!!
ebay.com link » Eddie Iron Maiden The Trooper Super Stage Action Figure Mcfarlane Toys 2001

Just teasin’. Nice find.

2 months later
#351 1 year ago
Quoted from Habeboo:

Just wanted to post a couple pics and video of my Iron Maiden Topper. I really love this pinball and I had a lot of fun designing this one....
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Wow! Super nicely done!

You planning on selling these?

3 months later
#505 1 year ago

I wanted to highlight the drop target bank a bit since it's kind of invisible with black targets at a sharp angle away from the player on this game so I installed some of these nifty transulcent drop targets and added some LED lighting behind them.
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They really pop now!

Details: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/translucent-drop-targets-from-pinball-mods-vid-s-review#post-4758185

#507 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Meh. Highlighting them is one thing, but that looks wildly bright/distracting in the photo. Hopefully it isn't as bad in person.
Whatever floats your boat...I have no problem seeing the drop targets whatsoever.
snaroff

The photo makes them brighter than they seem in person, however the white LEDs I have behind them are a bit brighter than I'd like. I'll probably switch them out for something dimmer and possibly coloured in the future.

#515 1 year ago
Quoted from Hdmike444:

I even think if the decals aren’t translucent the rest of the target will still light up nicely
I’m ordering a set to try it

Yeah the target around the decal would still glow nicely, especially as they are viewed from the side angle anyway. I’m pretty sure the goody bag has extra drop target decals in it but if not easy enough to transfer the existing ones if you warm them up with a heat gun. I may try that.

1 week later
#553 1 year ago
Quoted from Hdmike444:

Finally got around to lighting his eyes too[quoted image]

Very cool. Couldn't have been easy working with such a small area. Care to share how you did it?

#555 1 year ago
Quoted from Hdmike444:

I drilled from front to back aiming towards his neck area with a tiny bit then kept going up one size until a Pico led fit in from the back. The less are about halfway in as they are too bright at the actual eye ball
Wasn’t as bad as you might think

How did you run the wires to the LEDs though?

#574 1 year ago
Quoted from PJKools:

Finally installed my lighted speaker kit and acrylics...
[quoted image]

That translight is so much nicer than the stock Premium one!

#593 1 year ago
Quoted from jrivelli:

Posted in the other IMDN thread but finished the pop bumper truecolor protectors
https://truecolorprotectors.com/products/iron-maiden-truecolor-pop-bumper-plastic-protectors
Of course one of my pop bumper light boards is out atm so only 2 are lit up in the pic
[quoted image]

This raises the issue of why nobody in the modding community has come up with replacement led boards for the pop bumpers that will make all three display GI level and also flash when required? This only flashing one pop bumper approach Stern took bothers me. As the original poster indicated makes it look like something is wrong with one of them.

Could use a Pi or something and read the inputs to the flasher LED and the GI led from 2 pop bumpers to determine the output light which would power all three...

2 months later
#748 1 year ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

no , no it doesn't. We all know what games look like when people do this to them, and none of them look good. Especially when you have a game with detailed artwork and shading. you are ruining all of the artwork. Nobody should ever put colored lights in ANY GI socket. Horrible, horrible horrible.

Well “nobody ever” might be a tad extreme. But to me it makes the game harder to play (green lights between the flippers?) and is roughly equivilant to buying a beautiful painting and then spray painting over it with green blue and red spray paint.

But hey it’s your game so as long as you like it...

#750 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

I *like* the idea, but I think it's too deep a shade of red and makes it hard to see in the mode when compared to other machines with GI light changes in modes. A lighter shade overall or 50/50 with dark and medium reds and it would be great.

I put warm whites under the yellow plastics and daylight whites under the slings etc. it looks great. Still much dimmer but no colour wash.

1 week later
#777 1 year ago
Quoted from oohlou:

The game is a little dark especially in the center of the playfield. I think Pin Stadiums look great on this pin but I don't know if I want to go that far. Anyone have examples of added spotlights or some other lighting mods?

neilmcrae I haven't had a problem with mine after you and I absolute drenched the threads in locktite. 400+ games now without an issue. Thanks for the help!

I had the same concerns with stadium lighting on this game and went with adding some spotlights. I guess I’ll write that up now, give me a bit.

#780 1 year ago

I wanted to preserve a more moody atmosphere in the game vs the effect that stadium lights would provide so decided to try adding a few well placed spots. I'm very happy with how it turned out, highlights the figures and PF really well and still "feels right" and preserves the "Fear of Dark" mode where things get dark.

This is going get a bit long but in the interest of completeness...

To start with I had previously replaced all the factory white and red GI lighting with either WW (under the yellow plastics) or Comet 2 SMD Sunlight bulbs (under the slings and ball guides and other blue plastics), except I left the factory red bulbs in the very back of the pf since they didn't really interfere with PF art you could see anyway. I also put a red bulb under the plastic in the back right corner and disconnected the white bulb under left rear plastic (leaving the factory red bulbs) to provide a darker lighting in the lower back corners that don't need much light and to improve atmosphere.

IMG_5447 (resized).JPG
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I added additional spots to the right slight shot (2 headed), a single spot next to the pops, and another single spot near the top right flipper.

Since I'd heard that the node boards in Spike games can't handle a lot of additional load I decided to add one spot to each GI circuit (as you test in Diagnostics) to spread the load around. I have no idea if the separate circuits actually use separate node boards or all supported by the same one, but seemed like a good idea at the time. Maybe someone more knowledgable can comment.

Here's how it looks with everything added.

IMG_5445 (resized).JPG

I used two spots on the right sling, one pointing between the slings and the other up the centre of the playfield. I kept the reflectors on these to prevent the bulbs from being visible to the player.
IMG_5430 (resized).JPG
IMG_5433 (resized).JPG
I used the Comet Op-Max WW bulb for the mid playfield (these bulbs are really impressive) and a Coment 5 SMD insane bright WW one for between the slings. I couldn't use the Op-Max bulb for between the slings as it sticks out past the reflector and was visible to the player. The insane bright bulb has no cover and is invisible to the player.
IMG_5425 (resized).JPG

IMG_5426 (resized).JPG

One spot over the upper right flipper to light the middle right side of the playfield. This one I left the reflector off since the player can't really see the bulb directly and it is less noticeable without the reflector on it. I used a Comet Op-Max WW bulb here and removed the largish cover it comes with using pliers since the cover made it visible to the player and without the cover it is not. It is amazing how much light this one bulb throws over the PF when mounted a little higher as it is. Also has no impact on visibility of the upper right flipper shot, other than providing a great amount of light.
IMG_5427 (resized).JPG
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These sockets are connected to the factory bulb sockets on separate GI circuits as shown below:
IMG_5450 (resized).JPG

Finally the left side socket lights the pop PF area and the Madness Eddie figure. Again no reflector and using an Op-Max bulb with the cover removed.
IMG_5431 (resized).JPG
IMG_5451 (resized).JPG
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The light is perfect as it leave the area immediately around the ORB a little darker so when that flasher goes off it lights up the PF in that area. Awesome!
IMG_5388 (resized).JPG

I also used the Comet Matrix wire connectors to wire everything which come in handy sizes. Everything you need to do this can be purchased from Comet for probably less than $25 (sockets, bulbs, Matrix wires, and hex posts). Far more cost-effective and I think a better result than using Pinstadiums.

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