(Topic ID: 215735)

Iron Maiden Mod Thread

By Lermods

12 months ago

Topic Stats

  • 795 posts
  • 161 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 16 hours ago by vireland
  • Topic is favorited by 108 Pinsiders


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#399 6 months ago
Quoted from Mudflaps:

Guys, reach out to your distributors if you want the Premium figures in your Pro. Here’s what you need:
Cyborg Eddie, part #550-7421-00
Piece of Mind Eddie, part #550-7422-00
Bracket for sculpt mount, part #535-1854-00
Screw 6x1/2 PTH A, part# 237-5809-00 (x2)
Screw 6-32x3/8 PPH MS SEMS (x2)[quoted image]

Ok, I got the parts in from the distributor.

Cyborg Eddie wasn't a problem...I used the wood screw looking ones for the back of the cyborg figure (Screw 6x1/2 PTH A, part# 237-5809-00 (x2)). Though, I couldn't use the Screw 6-32x3/8 PPH MS SEMS (x2). The pro had smaller sized metal screws so I just reused those.

My main question is about the piece of mind eddie? Not sure what would be the best way to attach this...maybe another small wood type screw (x2)?

20181025_141738 (resized).jpg

I see from another forum pic that there is a black screw being used ->

8eb6676218e3cfd1e99d9bc46b8899e0b0716d42 (resized).jpg

If I used the 8" piece of mind figure that you can get for like $30, I could just zip tie it on ->

a9e441d6f2c926615e7c7f3a1ee19e30b27cb65d (resized).jpg

Though not sure about 'sizing' with an 8" figure...seems like it would be too big looking for the PF?

Also....if putting the factory piece of mind on a Pro, you would still have the metal brackets ->

20181025_141644 (resized).jpg

So if I go that route, I would like to buy the premium version of that pop bumper top, though I don't have a part number?

#401 6 months ago
Quoted from Mudflaps:

I used a dab of hot glue on each foot for Piece of Mind Eddie. It’s been rock solid for weeks and totally reversible.
And I removed the metal brackets on the pop bumpers.

Thanks for the quick reply. Hmm...hot glue. Ok, that sounds like a good option. I'll put the hot glue on the piece of mind eddie's feet, wait a few seconds, then place him on the PF plastics. (I'm slightly worried that doing the reverse the hot glue might slightly warp the plastic and thus not be reversible as nice). I guess hot glue will just razorblade off nice?

And...you removed the metal brackets? Could you let me know how? Or...at least, I assume its not reversible since they are riveted in there? 20181025_190347 (resized).jpg

#402 6 months ago

Also....can someone point me to the actual ebay items they are finding for the spitfires?

I've searched "1/72 spitfire"...and mainly it just shows model kits where you have to paint them yourself.

I'm assuming everyone is finding spitfires that they don't have to paint?

Also saw a recommendation for searching "KOSCIUSZKO HURRICANE MK I #19/31", but that only results in "axis and allies" model planes that look less detailed than the spitfires everyone is using...

#404 6 months ago
Quoted from Mudflaps:

Ahh! Never mind, I have the dumb. I did not remove the brackets, my mistake.
I stand by the hot glue, though. [quoted image]

I also have the dumbs. I saw a different picture of the piece of mind figure here on this same thread ->

76a6aece210614025dcaac3fe6cf530b168e40e1 (resized).jpg

The base aligns with a screw hole, so I would just need to go to Home Depot and get a slightly longer machine screw in black.....or paint the top black. So it only attaches with one screw. Still like the hot glue idea though.

I did buy the clothed 8" Neca piece of mind figure too (it was cheap enough) and see which one I like better on the PF.

I also looked through the extra PF plastics that stern sent...which is nice of them to include 2 duplicate sets. Though...not all plastics were sent. No pop bumper top plastics were sent unfortunately. I'll call stern tomorrow and see if I can get a part number for those, so others in the future if they want to switch out the figures will know what the part number is.

#406 5 months ago

Ok, I got the Piece of Mind eddie installed (I think).

Home depot didn't have black onidized machine screws, so I went to Fastenal and got #6-32x3/8" black anodized machine screws. I actually have 9 extra now, so if anybody wants a free screw, just let me know.

Drilled a hole in the foot pad, and installed.

20181026_192135 (resized).jpg

However....only one foot is attached. Can a Premium/LE user let me know what if anything is done to the right foot? There isn't a spot to put a screw unless I drill straight through the foot and then there isn't a place for the screw through the plastic either.

Anyway, as is, the figure can basically freely rotate, which can't be correct...

#409 5 months ago

Thanks for your PMs....if you search "easy model spitfire 1/72" you can find them on aliexpress, ebay, amazon...etc. Aliexpress actually has diecast metal ones, though the weight of diecast might be an issue. Plus...since its aliexpress, they might be plastic anyway (descriptions can be notoriously erroneous on that site). Wherever you get them from, its all straight from china anyway though.

#412 5 months ago
Quoted from mollyspub:

Any luck with this?

I mean....its fine as is, though...it can move...so would require an occasional reposition.

I'm still waiting for someone with a Premium/LE to chime in on how the right foot is attached on theirs...

#414 5 months ago
Quoted from Sutol:

Here you go.... [quoted image]

Ok....that's interesting. The plastic piece/setup is fairly different then from the Pro version. For example, the left foot screw goes down to a post on the pro, but on the Premium, there isn't a post there and the foot is secured via a nut. Plus....the left foot also has a zip tie on it, which seems odd why they would need an additional securing mechanism that would be visible...

And, the right foot has a screw going into the foot from the underside. Interesting. Even more interesting is the screw isn't going through the front of the foot where the black "pad" is, but at the heel...

Ok, so for Pro users, I would either do what was earlier suggest and just hot glue it, or do what I did and just use 1 screw....both would be completely reversible.

1 week later
#432 5 months ago
Quoted from chuckcasey:

No plans to market the plane and lights but VERY easy to make yourself. Buy a 3 or 5 LED strip from Comet Pinball's matrix system with a single 12" extension cable, a few cable ties, 8" ridged wire and a plane (search Ebay for "KOSCIUSZKO HURRICANE MK I #19/31"). That's it.

I plan on doing this...though could you let me know where you connected the matrix 12" extension cable into on the underside to actually power the LED?

#437 5 months ago
Quoted from Vader77:

I wasn't crazy about the white LEDs so I added some matching lighting gel. Purists and puke fighters can hate away, I like it... tones it down a lot! Looks better in person than in the pic
Also really happy with swapping red for purple in slings.
[quoted image][quoted image]

I also wanted to try out the lighting gels...and I think they look great!

20181111_195413 (resized).jpg

They look a bit washed out in that pic, but in person they are a pretty close match to the in game colors.

Also....it cost me exactly $1.36 shipped, and applied with just a tiny bit of duck tape on the underside of the playfield. Just search "lighting gels" on aliexpress.

I just used 1 blue gel, and then doubled up the purple, yellow and orange gels (1 gel wasn't enough for those colors). For rime of the ancient mariner, I used a light blue and green together to get the aqua type color.

4 weeks later
#494 4 months ago

Got a few mods done tonight. Besides installing a trooper figure, I got a trough light and lighted plane.

First, for the trough light, I just bought the 7LED strip from cometpinball, in a variety of colors to try out. I just don't get it. The strip is $2.75 at cometpinball, so why are they $15-$20 on mod manufacturer's sites?

The other thing...is that it seems fairly bright. Maybe I should have bought a 3LED strip instead or bought a brightness adjuster for $2 (https://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/mtxbriteadj.htm). Of course, I could put in another order but...I just hate paying for shipping all the time.

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Then...for the plane, I had bought the spitfire "easy model" for $16 from amazon, and a 3LED strip from comet for $3, so $19. Its not as nice as lermods $60 one, or the interactive $80, but...it was kind of fun to do myself.

I first bent some wire and hot glued it on ->

20181209_173521 (resized).jpg

Cometpinball didn't have red 3LED in stock so I got warm white. Actually....maybe I prefer the warm white since its probably brighter and "neutral". Install was a snap with alligator clips.

20181209_183315 (resized).jpg

1 month later
#559 3 months ago

Ok, finished my spitfire! Added 3mm leds from lighthouse, and made a wiring harness that ties to the right side flasher.

I'm sure its not as pretty as what lermods makes, but learned some new skills making it. Thanks for everyone's help with making it. And...now I just need to pin down when exactly the right side flasher goes off.....its not that often I guess so I barely get to see my hard work!

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#560 3 months ago

Hmmm...looks like the lermods non-interactive plane just has the lights on all the time. Maybe I'll switch them to that eventually if I rarely notice them flashing.

#562 3 months ago
Quoted from Lermods:

What are you trying to accomplish? You want the wing lights to flash? If you have them tied to a flasher, why are they always on? Our non interactive is hooked to GI so it’s always on? Our interactive is tied to two circuits, underwings always on to light the playfield and wing lights on/off tied to a flasher. Pm me or ask here if you want help. It’s a fun project to take on if someone wants to learn.

Sorry for the confusion....I have mine wired (and working) just like your interactive one. I originally said ->

And...now I just need to pin down when exactly the right side flasher goes off.....its not that often I guess so I barely get to see my hard work!

As in....I don't see the flasher "light" very often, which means....I don't get to see the spitfire flashers very often. I'm saying I'm contemplating switching to your non-interactive style just to have them on all the time.

#564 3 months ago

Ideally....I would have the spitfire lights flash when someone hits the right ramp, though I think that gets much more complicated, though someone has made a spitfire mod that does that which is for sale (I just don't like the model spitfire they used).

Now that I'm thinking about it, I also have the mezelmods obelisk dome cover ->


On the Pro model....the light is only a simple flasher and...doesn't go off that often. So...I don't get to see the obelisk lit up that much. I think on the Prem/LE its a RGB that turns on during most of the modes and stays on?

Now I'm thinking of adding a 3 SMD led red strip from comet and putting it in there so its always lit up, and the flasher will still go off of course for a bit of visual feedback.

What might be cooler....is having one of comet's fire LED bulbs always on. -> https://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/fire.htm?1=1&CartID=0

The thing is...I would need to stick in a bulb socket and might not have enough space. Might look really cool though.

Also, anybody know where to get the foam tape that mezelmods and everyone else uses on most of their mods?

#568 3 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

I have no idea what other modders use, but I swear by 3M extreme mounting tape. You can get it at Target and home improvement stores:
I don't recommend getting it from Amazon or Ebay as they have a big problem with counterfeit product and you're likely to get some that LOOKS real, but has terrible hold.

Thanks...that looks exactly like what they use.

Quoted from Lermods:

There’s other flashers to use, left spinner flasher, lightning bolt flashers, pharaoh, they are all pretty active.

Good point....might play around with it on a different flasher...

Quoted from Hdmike444:

So I finished my spitfire mod and on heating the shrink tubing over the wires I melted my prop. going to order another now ...... so close. Didn’t even get to see it mounted and spinning In the game!

That really sucks! I feel for ya man.

#569 3 months ago

Ok, finished the clairvoyant mod!

Thanks for everyone's help on this, especially dts .

Used the LEDs from Lighthouse LEDs. One nice thing is that they have moved the resistor further down the cable so the resistors are just about under the PF.

20190113_181958 (resized).jpg

If I need to redo something in the future, I wouldn't reuse the 2 pico red LEDs that I used for the flasher. They are just too small. I would use 1 micro sized red led. Would be easier to attach to the agate ball and wouldn't have to splice 2 picos together. Plus.....one of my picos is now facing the wrong direction so the flash effect isn't as strong as it should be.

The hardest part was just getting the right pieces ordered. The wiring wasn't that hard, just a simple harness and then a separate wire that connects to some alligator clips from cometpinball.

20190112_143505 (resized).jpg

#579 3 months ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

Ok, finished my spitfire! Added 3mm leds from lighthouse, and made a wiring harness that ties to the right side flasher.
I'm sure its not as pretty as what lermods makes, but learned some new skills making it. Thanks for everyone's help with making it. And...now I just need to pin down when exactly the right side flasher goes off.....its not that often I guess so I barely get to see my hard work!
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Went ahead and made a new cable extension that attaches to my flasher harness for the spitfire. Now I can switch between static 'on' or a flasher setup. Not sure which one I prefer more yet.

20190115_151601 (resized).jpg

#580 3 months ago
Quoted from Litedpinballmods:

We will have a few different graphics for Iron Maiden.
This is our Pinsot Graphic. It is a spot light that has a graphic that matches the theme of your game. This can be mounted under your game to shine under your game or in front of your front legs. The spot can also be pointed to above the top of your game to look like a topper. It can also be projected on the ceiling above you game. On this video it is hooked up to our optional photosensor control that will allow the Pinspot Graphic to be controlled my ANY light in ANY game. We have this Pinspot Graphic controlled “Aces High” light on the playfield. With supplied power tap, the mod with turn on and off with the game.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

How have I not seen something like this before? Oh...its a sneak peak? So, how many other game graphics do you have this for, and price?

oh..and my kids have night lights kind of like this, and the insert graphics fade over time. Any chance of that happening with these?

#582 3 months ago
Quoted from Litedpinballmods:

Thanks for the reply. You hit a nail on the head.
I will tell you, when in testing we had these on under a game, that was the first place people would walk, they would then kick at it with their foot, and we always got a very good comment. They do look very cool.
We have about 200 graphics in the system now, plan to have some listed before Texas. Some images work better them others, and we are adding to our selection daily. These will hook up to any game. Some of the graphics are generic, like the earth or the moon, which look cool on many space themed games.
The projector is small, 1 1/2" long. Aluminum housing to decapitate heat (it is warm to the touch, but not hot). Because it is so small and light that it easily mounts to under your cabinet or above with Velcro, only takes minutes to install. Because of our 4 lens system, it will focus at any length, but looks best at about 2 feet, longer then that you start getting light fade. We have designed it so if mounted under your game it will go from leg to leg. Looks good on most floors, light colored walls and ceilings. It will rotate 180 degrees so it can get pointed in any direction.
We have worked on this for about 8 months to do everything we can to limit fading. Different this, different that, cooling, coatings, many things, that has been our biggest challenge on this mod. Part of the problem was the longer we could get the image to last, the longer it would take to test. Their were times we had 20 of these pointed at walls running for a month. We have worked out that on this package you will get about 1,000 hours from fade. This is designed for home use, if your game is on an hour a day, the package will last about 3 years. We will sell replacement images that will give about 1,000 hours for $9.99. Only takes a few minutes to replace the image. The price will be $79.99, that includes power tap, mounting and enough length to mount any place on the game.
Dan[quoted image][quoted image]

Yeah if new images are decently cheap, then fading isn't so much a problem.

Interested. I mean, could make a nice topper replacement, plus you can move it from game to game. Though I like the look on the floor too.

2 weeks later
#614 83 days ago

Ok...got my "fire" obelisk mod done.

As a refresher...on the pro, the flasher doesn't go off very often, so the obelisk is dark most of the time so you can't see the design in the front of the obelisk. Unlike the premium/LE, which has the rgb light being on more often.

Originally I was just going to put a 3 smd warm white LED strip, which would have been real easy. But...wanted something a bit different so I got a fire LED bulb from comet.

I removed the yellow flasher cover, and attached the lamp holder but used some nylon spacers so the light was at the bottom of the obelisk.

20190130_204518 (resized).jpg

20190130_204509 (resized).jpg

Now....there is a flickering light that is always on, so its easy to see the obelisk design, plus...the flasher will still go off and highlight the obelisk when you hit the super jackpot.

1 week later
#644 70 days ago
Quoted from djreddog:

I actually prefer the target. It’s harder to hit and makes it more challenging.

I don't wish for a newton ball.....and I hit the orb target all the time when trying to make the left ramp so I don't find it a hard target at all. Most of the time I hit it way too often. I.e., I would rather build up mystery levels or wait for a higher power jackpot but I'm always hitting it...

2 weeks later
#693 55 days ago

Quick question.....I got the replacement coil in. But...is everyone just soldering in place essentially or are they tracing the wires and cutting all the zip ties to disconnect the coil wires completely and do the soldering on a table?

#696 55 days ago
Quoted from vireland:

I just unsoldered the wires from the old coil then soldered it onto the same lug on the new coil (one at a time so as not to mix them up), then mounted the new coil. Be sure to clip off the diode if your replacement coil has one running across the lugs.

Right...but I'm saying, are you leaving the power wires to the coil still attached under the PF or removing the wires so you can do the soldering away from the PF?

#698 55 days ago
Quoted from vireland:

On location, so I do it on the machine. I don't disconnect from the harness.

Thanks! I got it all switched over to the new coil now and...so far so good!

1 week later
#719 42 days ago
Quoted from mbott1701:

Thanks. I plan to add a spotlight somewhere to better illuminate it when the glass is on. The plane can get lost in the glare from the backbox.

Nice! So did you just drill from the bottom to push a light through to the cockpit? And could you take a pic of how the wire is attached to the plane?

#738 40 days ago
Quoted from PersonX99:

3d printed from Thingiverse:
The wall pieces were cut in half so I had a place to mount the led board. Stern uses white leds so I covered with orange gel sheet to achieve the fire color for the torches.
I had to make the torch piece larger so I could drill it out to fit the 5mm light tube. I also use an razor blade to slice the top of the light tube vertically to give more of an flared appearance of the torch light. I did not want it to look like a light saber.
Anubis was printed and cut to fit.
Of course, everything was painted. Most of the effort there was mixing the colors. A color wheel is your friend. The walls were mounted using the screws and standoffs from the original plastics. Anubis was secured to the back panel with velcro (I like mods to be removable).
Hopefully, this inspires someone else to try it, and perhaps improve on it. I've been inspired by many a mod posted on Pinside over the years.

Yeah...the paint job is what really makes these look good. Really like that ancient/weathered look!

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