Kimballspinballs.com LE speaker light mods. Look great!!

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Posted in the owners thread as well:

Is it possible to retrofit the orb target from the premium/Le into the pro to replace the standard standup target?

You could *maybe* do a very small X-Men captive ball thing, but that would be a pretty major redesign. There's no way for it to work like the Prem/LE without drilling, and I don't recommend it.

you don't want this.

Maybe if someone can work on something like this...

Maybe someone can work on something like this...

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What's the point? That's just a target like the one there already. It's not going to register hits from the sides and back like the newton ball does in the Prem/LE.

Can't find these on their website

Not posted yet I dont think. ill ask

Being able to score from the side might just be worth the price of the Premium (and the hassle of maintaining the mech). I get way more Mummy letters, jackpots and orb hits from the side than I do head-on.

Having played both extensively, the Premium/LE is definitely the preferred experience.

This is the point, "Being able to score from the side".
I have the pro version, and i find it very dificult to hit...

Yeah, I do. I don't mind drilling the pf to make it work.

I thought about a Tommy silver ball target too, but those aren't exactly easy to find, and I'm sure it would break quickly being so close to the flippers.

That is also a valid question, the durability of it, because like you have said, is very close to the flippers.
Are you going to drill it?

This is close of what we need... and still no drill...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/x-men-le-wolverine-newton-bracket-by-mezelmods

The problem is the X-Men newton mod relies on the existing switch position and hole, which means the ball will jut forward, likely into the path of the ball to the lower spinner, potentially altering it.

I really don't think there's a good solution other than saving up for a HUO Premium and upgrading if you're dissatisfied with the lower orb target.

I am going to order the complete assy, and see what I can do. Will find a local premium or Le to get some measurements before.

Im with you man...

go looks at the problems thread and see if you are still so keen - the ball mech is piss.

Does anyone have the PinGraffix Powerbladez for Maiden? If so how do you like it? I have been thinking about adding them but I have one of the toppers Delta9 made that uses the same bill-validator power socket that the power bladez use. Is there a reliable splitter that could allow both to run without damaging the machine?

Spike is a touchy thing so not sure stacking mods is a good idea there, but you could always run it off the service outlet in the backbox.

I disagree, I only had problems with mine once , I adjusted it and it has been flawless ever since. I love the way it plays compared to the pro

Ditto

The game is a little dark especially in the center of the playfield. I think Pin Stadiums look great on this pin but I don't know if I want to go that far. Anyone have examples of added spotlights or some other lighting mods?

NeilMcRae I haven't had a problem with mine after you and I absolute drenched the threads in locktite. 400+ games now without an issue. Thanks for the help!

I had the same concerns with stadium lighting on this game and went with adding some spotlights. I guess I’ll write that up now, give me a bit.

Here are spots I put on my pro. I like them and light it up good. I also switched out all GI to Comet sunlight frosted.

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I wanted to preserve a more moody atmosphere in the game vs the effect that stadium lights would provide so decided to try adding a few well placed spots. I'm very happy with how it turned out, highlights the figures and PF really well and still "feels right" and preserves the "Fear of Dark" mode where things get dark.

This is going get a bit long but in the interest of completeness...

To start with I had previously replaced all the factory white and red GI lighting with either WW (under the yellow plastics) or Comet 2 SMD Sunlight bulbs (under the slings and ball guides and other blue plastics), except I left the factory red bulbs in the very back of the pf since they didn't really interfere with PF art you could see anyway. I also put a red bulb under the plastic in the back right corner and disconnected the white bulb under left rear plastic (leaving the factory red bulbs) to provide a darker lighting in the lower back corners that don't need much light and to improve atmosphere.

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I added additional spots to the right slight shot (2 headed), a single spot next to the pops, and another single spot near the top right flipper.

Since I'd heard that the node boards in Spike games can't handle a lot of additional load I decided to add one spot to each GI circuit (as you test in Diagnostics) to spread the load around. I have no idea if the separate circuits actually use separate node boards or all supported by the same one, but seemed like a good idea at the time. Maybe someone more knowledgable can comment.

Here's how it looks with everything added.

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I used two spots on the right sling, one pointing between the slings and the other up the centre of the playfield. I kept the reflectors on these to prevent the bulbs from being visible to the player.
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I used the Comet Op-Max WW bulb for the mid playfield (these bulbs are really impressive) and a Coment 5 SMD insane bright WW one for between the slings. I couldn't use the Op-Max bulb for between the slings as it sticks out past the reflector and was visible to the player. The insane bright bulb has no cover and is invisible to the player.
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One spot over the upper right flipper to light the middle right side of the playfield. This one I left the reflector off since the player can't really see the bulb directly and it is less noticeable without the reflector on it. I used a Comet Op-Max WW bulb here and removed the largish cover it comes with using pliers since the cover made it visible to the player and without the cover it is not. It is amazing how much light this one bulb throws over the PF when mounted a little higher as it is. Also has no impact on visibility of the upper right flipper shot, other than providing a great amount of light.
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These sockets are connected to the factory bulb sockets on separate GI circuits as shown below:
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Finally the left side socket lights the pop PF area and the Madness Eddie figure. Again no reflector and using an Op-Max bulb with the cover removed.
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The light is perfect as it leave the area immediately around the ORB a little darker so when that flasher goes off it lights up the PF in that area. Awesome!
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I also used the Comet Matrix wire connectors to wire everything which come in handy sizes. Everything you need to do this can be purchased from Comet for probably less than $25 (sockets, bulbs, Matrix wires, and hex posts). Far more cost-effective and I think a better result than using Pinstadiums.

Any updates on this mod?!

I bought the Cyborg Eddie sculpt from Pinball Life (https://www.pinballlife.com/iron-maiden.html), and can't figure out how to get the thin plastic Eddie off to put the sculpt on. Do I have to take the ramp off too? Or is there something easy that I'm just missing?

Crap I paid more than that for mine!
No need to remove the ramp. It just unscrews from what I remember .

I see a screw, but can't figure out how to get a screwdriver to it because the ramp's in the way... Maybe I need a smaller screwdriver. :/

It's real easy. Here is mine attached. Just remove these 2 screws.

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Thanks! I thought I had to remove the nuts behind the flat plastic Eddie and somehow missed that those two screws would take it off. I feel kinda dumb...

Just got my premium with a few mods. One being the shaker motor. Holy cow it’s so strong that it’s rattling the back glass and just sounds rough. It’s a stern unit. Anyone else have this issue? Did you reset both weights or just the one side?
My GB shaker does not have this issue and I will probably look at how that’s positioned.

You sure it's a Stern one? Sounds more like Cointaker.

You can reduce the shaker amount in the settings or change the offset of the weight on one side to smooth it out.

I bought the machine from cointaker but they advised it was a stern motor. If it is a cointaker would resolving the issue be resolved with the weight being offset? It’s set to the lightest use on the machine

If it's a cointaker motor, it will always have unpleasant shaking even if you offset the weights. Is the plastic cover clear? Any markings on it?

Will check when I get back tomorrow. Thanks for the help.

Finished adding the last of my play PF mods! I couldn’t find the NECA cyborg/somewhere in time Eddie so I went with the trooper. I accidentally bought the clothy peace of mind Eddie to I purchased the molded clothing one and installed it to match the trooper. I’ll put the clothy peace of mind Eddie up in the bar

I also purchased the re-release of the somewhere in time CD which included the small cyborg Eddie figure that to my surprise has a lot of detail. He’s perfect around the lamp post as a subtle not so obvious mod. My SUV still has a CD player so I’ve been playing the cd for the last 2 weeks on the way to work. First cd I bought in over a decade I love that album.

I’m really happy with this set up, the other mods I installed feel natural. I ordered a tilt topper which should be arriving next month or so. After that who knows maybe I’ll install a shaker. Am debating the speaker lights as I don’t want too much glare (I play in the dark).

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Looks like a stern shaker motor #041-5029-04

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How did you mount the Cyborg figure? I'm looking at adding a couple myself, but unsure on how people are mounting them

I have no idea why you're getting such rough shaking, then. Stern and Pinball Life shakers are in the "just right" zone, usually. Good news is loosening the screw and turning the weight on one side (only) to change the offset should make it less extreme.

I just ziptied his back leg to the post

So I turned one weight 90 degrees and now it’s perfect. Thanks for your help!!

So do you want them off set to shake more?

Rotating one so it's more offset makes it shake less vigorously.