Quoted from Alamo_Pin:

It is most likely a switch issue with your upper switch in the sarcophagus lock. I have had the same issue since setting up my game about a month ago. I have adjusted the switch enough to get it working for a game or two. But it reverts back to messing up mummy multiball every time. The switch is going to have to be replaced or changed to a roller ball switch (see the discussion above on this page).

Quoted from iceman44:

I’d say play it until it doesn’t register anymore
My mech had other issues as well so it got replaced and new one is working, upper and lower switches are fine
Now it’s the motor, one of the switches on the wheel is closing before the mech goes into full down position which traps the ball as it tries to drain through underworld
Not a big deal.
Keep your fingers crossed Who Dey! I’d go ahead and purchase a few BW roller switches anyhow though

Quoted from iceman44:

I’d say play it until it doesn’t register anymore
My mech had other issues as well so it got replaced and new one is working, upper and lower switches are fine
Now it’s the motor, one of the switches on the wheel is closing before the mech goes into full down position which traps the ball as it tries to drain through underworld
Not a big deal.
Keep your fingers crossed Who Dey! I’d go ahead and purchase a few BW roller switches anyhow though

Quoted from OnTheSnap:

Mine is perfect 150 games so far.

Quoted from kermit24:

Check the audio pinouts in the backbox. Make sure the connections are good.

Quoted from Tranquilize:

Reinstalling software could def fix the issue. Check all audio settings as well. Switch ohms back and forth too.

Quoted from Billy16:

I just talked to David about the auto launch issue. He said they have been working on it and as of right now there is no permanent fix. It is going to be a continual battle unless someone comes up with the magic fix. I may try a stronger coil to see if that helps--the next strongest coil per David is a 23700, #090-5022-00T--he said it is about 10% stronger. He also said to make sure the machine is level side-to-side, and try 6.5 pitch.
Well, I spent a couple of hours this morning adjusting everything and its grandmother, and the auto plunge still sucks. I can make it a little better, but never better than 75%.

Quoted from Billy16:

I just talked to David about the auto launch issue. He said they have been working on it and as of right now there is no permanent fix. It is going to be a continual battle unless someone comes up with the magic fix. I may try a stronger coil to see if that helps--the next strongest coil per David is a 23700, #090-5022-00T--he said it is about 10% stronger. He also said to make sure the machine is level side-to-side, and try 6.5 pitch.
Well, I spent a couple of hours this morning adjusting everything and its grandmother, and the auto plunge still sucks. I can make it a little better, but never better than 75%.

Quoted from Burley9043:

It seems like there is no "one problem" to fix when it comes to the auto-plunger. The adjustments I finally made to get it to work on my game and the ones that I have read on this thread all seem a little different (e.g. moving shooting lanes, bending auto-plungers, waxing play fields, adjusting power to auto-plunger). It is never as easy as turning this screw a quarter turn. This might be why Stern has not been able to fix this issue as the new games come off the line and why it continues to be frustrating to game owners. But even when every auto-plunged ball in my game was bouncing off the upper flipper every time it launched a ball, it never stopped me from enjoying the game. It just added to the madness.

Quoted from dts:

Nah, it’s fixable. I just shot video of trooper multiball, zero misses allowing all balls to drain and reload. Can’t seem to download it to here right now. I suppose if you are whaling on the machine during auto launch you might bounce it off something but I’d think you would be tilting at that point.

Quoted from hocuslocus:

I didn't really look at centering it, it looked somewhat center but I wasn't really paying attention to that aspect.
I figured it was either the way it was getting pushed out or the speed. Didn't make sense that one way worked almost all the time, and not the other.
Appreciate the suggestion, I'll take another look at that next time I'm there.

Quoted from dts:

Some more info...I put Cliffy’s in the shooter lane and just that small elevation caused the balls to hit the post below the loop. Adjusted the autoplunger mech prongs, the upper rail of the shooter lane, and back to perfect...for now. I should mention that the right prong is touching the ball now at rest, so I’m not absolutely sure both of them touching the ball is the answer. Probably gonna vary game to game. I’ll keep an eye on it and report back if any of this is useful. At this point I’m gonna sign off on this issue and enjoy my games!

Quoted from zaki:

anyone have this issue. i just updated to new IM code. left sling repeatedly firing 20 times when hit. has to be software issue. worked fine yesterday.

Quoted from db666:

Just updated my Premium to 1.03. Exactly same issue is happening to me.

Quoted from db666:

Start game. As soon as ball hits left sling it fires repeatedly and won't stop. Turn off game.
I reloaded 1.02 code and it's not happening any more.

Quoted from db666:

Start game. As soon as ball hits left sling it fires repeatedly and won't stop. Turn off game.
I reloaded 1.02 code and it's not happening any more.

Quoted from hoby1:

I think what is happening the switch pulse is more sensitive now. The sling rubber is probably deflecting back and causing the switch to register and refute the coil
I wish someone would test and let us know. Don’t want to update a buggy code.

Quoted from chuckwurt:

This makes me think it’s not software. It would be happening to everyone if it was. I’m no chemist, but I think that’s how it works.

Quoted from gearhead:

For what it's worth, here's my experience so far with the auto plunge. My game was I'd say about 80% out of the box. Pretty good, and only really annoying when there was a miss at the beginning of Trooper multi-ball, just cause it's not as cool if all 3 balls don't come down at you at the same time! Mine would make it, or shoot low and hit the post. It would never go high and hit the flipper. By turning the auto plunge down from 255 to 235 my game has gone to 95-98%. I won't say 100% because you're always gonna have an occasional miss, but it gets it almost every time now. I know it seems backwards. If it hits low you'd think it needed more power not less, but that's not the case for mine. My theory is that the ball sits in the middle of the shooter lane and doesn't make contact with the right metal guide. When it's fired it travels straight up the lane until it hits the curve. Because the ball was not in contact with the rail the whole time there's an impact and very slight bounce when it does contact the rail. Think of driving onto a highway on ramp and not turning the wheel until you hit the metal guard rail. This slight bounce varies slightly each time and causes the inconsistency. In my case the bounce sends the ball low into the post. Less power=less bounce. My ball is now more consistent and so makes the shot more consistently. I believe if the ball was just barely touching the rail right from the start, and all the way up and around the curve, it would be much more accurate because there would be NO bounce. I looked at moving the whole rail left to accomplish this but it will require a little more surgery than I'm willing to do at the moment. 95-98% is good enough for me and was super easy by just turning down the power. This may not work the same for you if yours misses high into the flipper. In any case though, I'm willing to bet that minimizing the impact bounce is the key to accuracy.

Quoted from PinMonk:

1.03 seems to have made the coil hit stronger for the slings. Turning it down to 20 or less on adjustment #62 of the game-specific adjustments solves this issue. Turn down the trough eject to 180-200 while you're in there. Your machine shooter lane will get beat up less.

Quoted from gearhead:

Did yours miss high or low before you fixed it with the prongs?

Quoted from gearhead:

So you had the opposite problem from me. That makes sense. If you were already shooting high less power on the coil would probably not help. I guess the rail angle and therefore the bounce in every machine is just a little different. Totally agree it's way better when it hits that loop!

Quoted from hoby1:

1.04 is up on the Premium at Sterns site

Quoted from hoby1:

Yes
V1.04.0 - August 15, 2018
=========================
- fixed an issue introduced in 1.03.0 that would complete lit modes when draining a ball without even starting the mode

Quoted from PinMonk:

Adjustment #62 on machine specific adjustments. Turn it down to 20 or so. Problem solved. They made the coil action harder and it makes more vibration, triggering sensitive switches.

Quoted from scarybeard:

my 'ball lock' loop post has a rubber sleeve on it that slowly rides up over time (predictably)... which gets the ball stuck sometimes until the search happens. I'm assuming replacing the rubber with a 'superbands' style sleeve will solve the problem because they fit tighter than normal rubbers. Anyone else done this and can confirm if its a good fix?
Thanks.
other than That my machine does not seem to have any physical issues.... Although I have noticed that the flipper coils on this machine are at least 2X louder than my Ghostbusters... Have not even lifted the playfield to see if there's a reason for it. anyone else experiencing this?

Quoted from BananaJet:

the post underneath the captive ball was loose.

Quoted from FightNightFZ:

Ok two simple playfield questions:
1.) mine has the woodgrain effect all over it, I know this is a historic problem with Stern. Is there a point where it’s worth asking for a replacement?
2.) Not sure if my pitch is off but I have very low plays and lots of dimpling already, is it just the pin in general or my setup?
Thanks!

Quoted from PinNin:

+1 for tech help from 85vett
Maybe some add that I have overseen or not taken into account on the sling issue. For people that want to go a little deeper into the theory. If you hit with your hand on the playfield you want to have something like a dirac pulse (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dirac_delta_function).
Like 85vett told you, first you have to understand the mechanic, then you fix or adjust it. Software adjustments should stay at the point where the producer set it. For a properly working and adjusted mechanic there is no need to adjust it after a software update.
I'm also working every day with pinball machines a long time and set up a lot of tournaments up to high level. Hopefully it help beginners or non experienced people to keep the fingers of the software adjustments.

Quoted from jorge5240:

Got my Maiden and it is a great game but my is my shooter on wrong. Ball will only leave the shooter lane 50% of the time. It will be an easy fix but pretty amazing they let it leave the factory like that

Quoted from jorge5240:

Manual plunge. Auto seems to work pretty darn well so far.

Quoted from Maide:

I sent an email to stern on Sunday night, and today I received the updated newton ball actuators they said they'd send me. It's completely fixed my "the newton ball doesn't register 95% of the time" problem, and now it seems to work every hit.
In the first game with the table back down, I immediately unlocked mummy multiball twice, back to back, and had a really great game. This went on for some time after that; this game is a lot more fun when all the major features work!
I attached a picture of the old part (left) and the new, much more pointy part (right), for anyone who was curious. They're roughly the same length.
[quoted image]

Quoted from Maide:

I think I got it on really tight with my wrench, but it is really hard to tighten it with only the ball to hold onto. I'll check it after some more games this weekend and order some. Thanks for the tip!

Quoted from hocuslocus:

yeah there a pain to get working right even with the pointy hex spacer thing... at least for me it was.... mainly the newton orb ball because the pops kept setting the power jackpot off prematurely every now and again.
pretty sure if my newton ball didn't get stuck in the tilted position, it would of made it much easier. There was another post a few pages back that went into more detail on how to fix that as well.
be patient, get it tweaked, its worth it.

Quoted from pinballinreno:

Dry it with a hair dryer, works for me...

Quoted from pinballaddicted:

How many of these are in the game?

Quoted from jorge5240:

So will the new actuator solve the mummy newton ball switch issue? Mine is fubared. I can adjust it and it will work for a game or two and then right back to not working. Weird because my orb seems to work fine.

Quoted from ATLpb:

I had to take my loc premium home to fine tune all the little annoyances that come with Prem/LEs. My game wasn’t 100% perfect until swapping in the rollover switch behind the sarcophagus ball. Cheers to any/all who came up with that idea originally, massive thanks.
I didn’t worry about Cherry nor Williams parts; I just have the standard newer rollover microswitch and it has been flawless in about 30 games. A few more days of “testing” and I can put it back to work for me.
PS: related- my god it is hard to get the responsiveness of the sarcophagus newton ball lock leaf switch pendulum hex rod thingey correct.

Quoted from Guinnesstime:

It's a damn disgrace that they still insist on sending this out this way, with no reworked/fixed mechanism. Seems like every special "mech" on a premium / le has an issue, regardless of title.

Quoted from chuckwurt:

The metal one isn’t a guaranteed solution either. Code should be changed to only have it come up when you shoot the right orbit. Left orbit should always just go around.

Quoted from chuckwurt:

Yes way. Only way to fix the issue for 100% of the people. Easy fix too. And you can always feed the pops if you want. Just shoot the right orbit.

Quoted from Mtg381:

Not trying to turn this into a MET thread, but what post issue are you referring to? I'd love to fix an issue that I might not have known about!

Quoted from Skyemont:

Question.... I just got a IM Pro... The code is 1.0.. I see that on Sterns site, the latest is 1.04. But when i click on the link to download it, it looks like a word doc file not a zip file. Do i need to install the other codes first prior to 1.04?

Quoted from Mtg381:

Correct. And click the top link, not the READ ME file.

Quoted from Mtg381:

Ah! Mine already has the metal post, but I can see where that would be un-fun. I am going to Pinball Life tomorrow if anyone needs anything!

Quoted from Mtg381:

A friend of mine bought it new. I'll check with him to see if he changed it or it came like that.
Maiden did come with the pointy newton posts, but that obviously wasn't the ultimate fix.

Quoted from Skyemont:

When u plunge the ball is it suppose to hit the left orbit?

Quoted from RA77:

The main issue I have is the Newton ball switch design is SHIT !
I burned another couple of hours stuffing around with this.
I managed to gap the switch with old style post was fine.
Put the new pointy post in and its crap.
Was initially patient, went to the trouble of completely removing newton ball ass'y as it gets sticky.
Cleaned, sanded, oiled base unit. Just CRAP
Pointy Post to Plastic spoon and leaf switch SUCKS BIG TIME !
So pissed off with the erratic nature of a crucial component of the game
Message to Engineers
Please DO NOT USE THIS CRAP IDEA AGAIN !
What happened to the proximity sensors in original design ?
You guys got the cash and the tech
There has to be a better newton switch design !
Go next level please

Quoted from Rob_G:

The gap requirement leaves very little room for error. Mine 'stick' too, but for now they are working so I will leave them alone. I am hesitant to use any threadlock, but may have to if the hex shafts keep coming loose. Then I will only use a tiny bit of blue threadlock.
Rob

Quoted from Tranquilize:

Common issue. Back of the ramp catches on the loop rail below and behind it momentarily. Use a tiny bit of lube. Problem solved.

Quoted from gearhead:

I removed the mech, cleaned the plunger and lubed the ramp hinges and the plunger link pivot points. Also lubed the back of the nylon plunger link where it presses (and can bind) against the steel when the ramp is in the fully up position.

Quoted from Maide:

All of a sudden my auto-plunge is making 0% of loops. Has anyone made a guide with images for adjusting the alignment of the auto-shooter? My manual plunge works perfectly, so I don't think I need to adjust the ramp at all. I wasn't able to get any improvements adjusting the power of the shot in the settings either. I have my playfield balanced at 6.5 degrees, which helped someone else in this thread.
There was a post on page 7 by Chalkey saying to lossen three screws, but I don't see a set of three screws that makes sense to adjust? I have four holding it into the playfield, is that what they meant?
If I touch the auto-plunger, I can make it wiggle left/right. Is it normal for the plunger itself to have some play sideways (not the direction it hammers)?

Quoted from pauloz:

I have the opposite to everyone else. My auto plunge always goes all the way round to the upper right flipper but manual plunge neve makes it to the upper left flipper.

Quoted from Tranquilize:

I just lubed the bottom of the ramp bracket where it was catching on the ball guide below. If you manually pull up the ramp, you'll see where it catches. It's just because the metal has a sharp edge and slows the ramp dropping. It goes away with time as it dulls.

Quoted from nath2099:

The fix that worked for me on the Orb ball was to elongate the holes in the plastic cup on the switch so it could be easier aligned, then readjust the leaf switch so it triggers with Orb shot but not with lower pop bumper.
With the auto-plunger hitting the post at the skillshot position, a bit of pressure on the launch lane guide and it seems fine for now.
I do have a problem of the Underworld shot will sometimes not sit on the switch, but get stuck between the sub playfield feeder ramp end and the underworld mech. Any ideas on this one?.[quoted image]

Quoted from nath2099:

No I didn't, but now the ramp is getting stuck open, so I'll do the loctite while it's open fixing that. Argh...

Quoted from NeilMcRae:

just checking in. Got the new posts mummy is perfect but orb get stuck after a hard impact and needs manual intervention, is this where you are loosening the post using threadlock and thats the fix?

Quoted from nath2099:

No worries, will do. I saw somewhere in this thread a recommended lube for the underworld ramp to fix the issue of it getting stuck open. Do you happen to know what that recommendation was?
For the benefit of others experiencing the same issue, I also fixed the ball getting stuck in the underworld by moving the little ramp that joins the sarcophagus to the underworld (below the playfield) further towards the underworld, and bending the tips of that little ramp up just enough to sit over the underworld mech.
This is before the fix:[quoted image]

Quoted from NeilMcRae:

mine had the old one put the pointy one in, the mummy ball is working great, orb needs manual re-centering...

Quoted from x-rug-x:

Thanks fytr and maide. I think I probably have a combination of both.
I need to learn how to take better pictures of the balls, this picture doesn't capture the difference. The ball on the left is from Dead Pool, a game with more plays. It looks more or less as it did when it went in. The ball on the right is from Iron Maiden: Legacy of the Beast (Pro). I high-lighted the marking that go around the whole ball. There's a ton more marks and dings, but I was trying to capture the bigger scratch. I think this is probably coming from the auto-launch as there's very few things that would go around the whole ball like that. The dings are probably coming from where fytr mentioned.
[quoted image]
Once again, these pictures don't really capture the problem, but I have a lot of scratches already like the one here. The picture doesn't capture the full length of the scratch.
[quoted image]
And once again, difficult to capture with the camera, but you can see the path the ball takes up the shooter lane, and it goes out past the shooter lane, but it was impossible to capture with the camera.
[quoted image]
As I mentioned, the game started not launching the ball 100% (either manual or auto), my theory is that the guide is slowly being moved.
[quoted image]
Lastly, you can really see the ramp taking a pounding, but that one is probably more expected, but you can totally see the line where the ball meets the ramp.
[quoted image]
I don't understand why there's so much exposed metal edges on this game. It'll be fine one every place has been hit and it's pounded smooth, but I'll have to replace the balls once a month at this rate. Kinda sad for a game that's less than a month old to take this sort of pounding. My Deadpool (Pro) looks brand new still and has way more plays.

Quoted from RA77:

I checked impedance of coils, both at 4 ohms.
Put the old coil back in and it will make loop now,,,, only just at times. funny that most times it makes the drop for inner left loop to upper left flipper for skill shot. lol
Manual launch, orange spring still fine.
Narrowed gap on launch bracket prongs a little has helped, prongs look a little ordinary....had a great test game made GC... got Madness mode for the first time, Wow ! game lasted about 25 minutes and launch did not fade remained lazy though
Would really like to get a stronger auto launch, as voltage is good I'm thinking of trying another coil ?
Factory Coil is 23 800 any suggestion for stronger replacement ? I will request a new main bracket.
Thanks,
Ando[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from RA77:

Yes, Thanks.
The manual plunge tip was pushing the ball about a mm off the prongs, I added an extra washer on the plunger rod to stop this but it made no difference.
Slow
Normal

Quoted from PinMonk:

Yes, you need to clamp the spring steel one for the outside edge of the shooter lane before you tighten the screw(s) on the outer rail or it will be non-stop problems over time.

Quoted from PinMonk:

Because it moves around over time or still has a slight angle on it that affects the ball rest in the shooter lane.

Quoted from jalpert:

Don't modify coils. Having anything except the correct coil is not fixing the issue, and probably won't work anyway.
When my game was having issues, the ball was too hitting the top part of the rail too far to the left, you want the ball closer to the right so it comes into contact with the rail right at the start of the bend. If the ball hits the rail after the bend, it will take momentum off.
Just as a test, bend the left and right side of of the auto plunge forks both left a little bit. unfortunately, with he angle of your video, you don't show where the ball comes into contact with the top of the guide very well so I'm not sure if this will work or not, but since it seems things are pretty bad maybe it's worth a try.
Also, don't forget about the ball hitting the rail too hard. Lowering the power of the coil in the menu can help, it can change where the ball hits the guide, which can actually add more "power". When My games was close, I started playing with the power and it's down about 20 from 255 and makes it around every time.

Quoted from Tranquilize:

See if shifting the PF to the left or right fixes the issue. I had a BH that would shift and go out of whack. I put a screw in one of the hook slots so the PF had to sit in the same exact place each time.

Quoted from Tranquilize:

See if shifting the PF to the left or right fixes the issue. I had a BH that would shift and go out of whack. I put a screw in one of the hook slots so the PF had to sit in the same exact place each time.

Quoted from snaroff:

Thanks for the tip. Man, getting ahold of the newton ball to adjust (8) is a PITA. For me, loosening it seemed to make it a bit worse. I was able to tighten it a bit and it's working pretty well. It was never awful, but does seem dialed in. Considering the mech, I imagine 98% success is good enough
snaroff

Quoted from RA77:

Thanks Rob,
I must reiterate, please all, excuse me for continuosly going on about this junk mech.
take a look at the exploded view provided from Rob , simply unacceptable in today's day and age
Just a huge waste of materials added to the BoM
The worst part is the headaches this mech is causing owners and distributors.
As a pinball tech at a technical level, there is NO way this mech can be reliable !
I never want to see this rubbish again, you are better than this Stern Pinball.
There has never been a worse newton ball.
I ask Stern to come up with a proper solution.

Quoted from patrickvc:

I got the switches today, getting the game tommorow so I wanted to be ready, these feel a little stiff like not feather like to activate. They are the ones that were recommended.

Quoted from patrickvc:

Ok I guess we’ll see how things work. I know the ramp sticks up sometimes. The seller informed me of that

Quoted from PinMonk:

It's been brought up before. Ball is likely moving too fast for the opto to register. There is a fix, but I don't have a link. It just involves adjusting the opto, if I remember right.
Edit: Found a post talking about it with a suggested fix. Key post index updated with a link.

Quoted from JCNP:

spoke with Dave in tech support. I believe was his name and told him that the balls were flying off the wire form actually on each side maybe more on the left. He says he hasn't heard of that problem

Quoted from snaroff:

Wouldn't it be wonderful if Stern had a public defect tracking system that all of us could submit issues and navigate? Sometimes I get the impression that they don't even have an internal defect tracking system!
I recently suggested to a Stern rep that they issue a service bulletin on the shooter lane issue. They said the number of complaints doesn't warrant a service bulletin at the moment. So while many of us solve our problems on Pinside, it's important to also contact Stern about our issues. I've played several IMDN's in the wild and the shooter lanes were AWFUL (both manual and auto plunge). Considering the games design, not having this feature work reliably is a show stopper for me.

Quoted from snaroff:

Just to be clear, Stern takes good care of me as well. I still think Service Bulletins are great way of reaching folks that aren't as proactive as some of us (or as plugged into Pinside). Iron Maiden is a special case...I've spent more time on it than most of my games combines (over the past 6 months). If a Stern rep tells me they haven't heard about issue "X" with Iron Maiden, I just have a hard time believing it (as you pointed out in your post).

Quoted from NeilMcRae:

and add my initials to the code high score

Quoted from NeilMcRae:

LOL I'm ready!!!
[quoted image]

Quoted from Tranquilize:

Finally had an issue with the sarcophagus lock switch. Was going to replace it with a roller until I realized that the switch is simply bent incorrectly for proper functionality. I just pulled the actuator off, clipped it a little shorter to avoid the tip hitting the end of the ball guide slot, and bent it upward so that the ball comes into contact with it earlier. The original shape of the actuator was bent upward too late and resulted in the ball not depressing it far enough. My alteration will make this bombproof until the cheap Stern switch actually fails.
While I had the glass off and balls out, I decided to tackle the autolauncher. Mine has always worked well after my initial adjustment. I'm at about 90%. I took some layers off the coil, which seems to added a few precent to my consistency.
Switch:
[quoted image]
Coil:
[quoted image]

Quoted from Tranquilize:

I've fixed and replaced many switches in my time. The original switch was bent in a way that required too much pressure from the ball. After my fix it takes feather light pressure to trigger it, just like the upper switch. I'm extremely confident. I'll let you know if and when it fails though!

Quoted from Flex_in_Aus:

Noticed the clear coat bulging around a sling post the other day. On closer inspection I can see this is happening on posts around the p/f at varying degrees of severity.
Interested to know if anyone else is having the same issue are am I the lucky one?
Its hard to tell if it is just the clear lifting, or the artwork as well.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from DrMark12PA:

Has anyone noticed having issues with the sound all of a sudden becoming much more clear and more bass? It's almost as if the sound changes similarly to when your ears pop. I've noticed it happen a few times on my premium and again tonight.

Quoted from PinMonk:

robogrip with a microfiber cloth to hold the ball while you turn the bottom part with a deep socket? I know in some of the later ones they may have used loctite, so heating the post on the bottom near the collar up a little might help.

Quoted from Dron986:

vireland went to switch test and tried hitting the playfield sharply, even tried hitting sharply by both newton balls. Nothing registered. The two newton balls only registered when hit with a pinball.

Quoted from CyberNinja24:

Has anyone else had issues with their newton ball?

Quoted from mollyspub:

My pro is home use only and didn't have any issues without it. I installed one just because. I'm guessing you could purchase another from stern ?

Quoted from beergut666:

I can't see these things costing a whole lot of money, I don't think it would hurt to ask for another. I've seen your posts about playfield issues and I think they owe you a lot more than a flimsy playfield protector piece.

Quoted from PinMonk:

It tears up the mylar back there and eventually the chewed up mylar will hang up very slow moving balls. I'd just call Stern and explain what happened and ask for another. They have to cost less than 50 cents each in the quantities they got them.

Quoted from mattosborn:

You followed the instructions, right?

Quoted from mattosborn:

Yeah, the trick is to peel it back just a little bit and get it firmly positioned before you pull the rest of the backing and commit. You're right though, it is tough to get your hands in there. IIRC, I used a stick wrapped in a microfiber cloth to get it pressed down firmly (since I couldn't get my fat fingers in there).

Quoted from Mancave:

Ditto about the fat fingers but i used a slightly different method. Several test fits to suss out where it should go in my head, used a hobby paint brush handle with a nice blob of blue tack attached to it, pressed onto the protector and peeled the whole backing off and then located and pressed in.

Quoted from Tkaye:

Do you need to call Stern directly for this protector or your distributor? I’ve never heard of it before now. Thanks.