(Topic ID: 217498)

Iron Maiden issues


By rvdv

1 year ago



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Topic index (key posts)

9 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #96 sarcophagus switch fix. Posted by DG_Amuse (1 year ago)

Post #434 Black t-moulding pictured to replace stock banana yellow. Posted by Strummy (1 year ago)

Post #597 Stern fix for Newton Ball issues on LE Posted by Fytr (1 year ago)

Post #887 Fix for fast balls not registering on upper loop Posted by PinNin (1 year ago)

Post #1039 Picture of factory fix for bad mummy newton ball on Prem/LE Posted by RA77 (1 year ago)

Post #1343 Fix for fast balls leaving wireforms Posted by Kevlar (1 year ago)

Post #1452 Shim method to get auto launch to work nearly 100% Posted by hank35 (1 year ago)

Post #1713 How to fix auto launch forever. Posted by NeilMcRae (10 months ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#746 1 year ago
Quoted from Alamo_Pin:

It is most likely a switch issue with your upper switch in the sarcophagus lock. I have had the same issue since setting up my game about a month ago. I have adjusted the switch enough to get it working for a game or two. But it reverts back to messing up mummy multiball every time. The switch is going to have to be replaced or changed to a roller ball switch (see the discussion above on this page).

Ok im new to the game and i have a Premium on the way. Is this switch on the sarcophagus lock bad on ALL of these games and will need to either be replaced or have a roller ball switch put on it, or do some of them work good and some dont?

#749 1 year ago
Quoted from iceman44:

I’d say play it until it doesn’t register anymore
My mech had other issues as well so it got replaced and new one is working, upper and lower switches are fine
Now it’s the motor, one of the switches on the wheel is closing before the mech goes into full down position which traps the ball as it tries to drain through underworld
Not a big deal.
Keep your fingers crossed Who Dey! I’d go ahead and purchase a few BW roller switches anyhow though

It almost seems like this is a very poor design that they probably knew about but shipped the games anyway. I thought i read somewhere that they went to a different style of switch after the first run of LE’s?

#750 1 year ago
Quoted from iceman44:

I’d say play it until it doesn’t register anymore
My mech had other issues as well so it got replaced and new one is working, upper and lower switches are fine
Now it’s the motor, one of the switches on the wheel is closing before the mech goes into full down position which traps the ball as it tries to drain through underworld
Not a big deal.
Keep your fingers crossed Who Dey! I’d go ahead and purchase a few BW roller switches anyhow though

I wish we lived closer iceman. Id come over and drink your beer and watch you fix it.

#752 1 year ago
Quoted from OnTheSnap:

Mine is perfect 150 games so far.

Thats what i like to hear. If mine comes all messed up i may have to fly iceman in from Texas to repair my sarcophagus!

2 weeks later
#812 1 year ago

Has anyone had any sound issues with their game? I was playing mine yesterday and something changed in the sound. It almost sounded like it went from stereo to mono or something. It seems like it lost its bass and the cabinet speaker sounds like shit. It sounds like the speaker is blown or something but it isnt. I also put another speaker in it and it sounds the same so that rules the speaker out. I cant hardly describe it but i know something has changed and isnt right. They are telling me to redownload the software at stern and we will go from there, but i dont think that is going to d anything. Im almost thinking that i may have a sound board issue.

#814 1 year ago
Quoted from kermit24:

Check the audio pinouts in the backbox. Make sure the connections are good.

Already did that too, forgot to mention that.

#816 1 year ago
Quoted from Tranquilize:

Reinstalling software could def fix the issue. Check all audio settings as well. Switch ohms back and forth too.

I just reinstalled the software and it didnt fix the issue. I know changing the ohms around can be a bad thing so im not gonna mess with that. What a bummer this is.

#819 1 year ago
Quoted from Billy16:

I just talked to David about the auto launch issue. He said they have been working on it and as of right now there is no permanent fix. It is going to be a continual battle unless someone comes up with the magic fix. I may try a stronger coil to see if that helps--the next strongest coil per David is a 23700, #090-5022-00T--he said it is about 10% stronger. He also said to make sure the machine is level side-to-side, and try 6.5 pitch.
Well, I spent a couple of hours this morning adjusting everything and its grandmother, and the auto plunge still sucks. I can make it a little better, but never better than 75%.

Ive been messing with my auto plunger tonight also and im so pissed that i honestly feel like taking a sledge hammer to the game. I cant believe that these games go into production when they KNOW they have an issue like this, WTF???

#823 1 year ago
Quoted from Billy16:

I just talked to David about the auto launch issue. He said they have been working on it and as of right now there is no permanent fix. It is going to be a continual battle unless someone comes up with the magic fix. I may try a stronger coil to see if that helps--the next strongest coil per David is a 23700, #090-5022-00T--he said it is about 10% stronger. He also said to make sure the machine is level side-to-side, and try 6.5 pitch.
Well, I spent a couple of hours this morning adjusting everything and its grandmother, and the auto plunge still sucks. I can make it a little better, but never better than 75%.

Ok, looks like i got my auto plunge problem fixed at least for now. When the ball is sitting in the shooter lane it is resting on the auto plunger prongs. They both have to be touching the ball or else it isn't going to shoot the ball in a straight line.

When i would look at mine the two prongs were both touching the ball so i thought I was good. Well while leaning over the machine thinking about bashing my fist through the playfield and trying to figure out why in the F this was happening i grabbed a hold of the auto plunger and pushed it forward. I noticed when i pushed the plunger forward that the left prong on the auto plunger was no longer touching the ball. I took a pair of needle nosed pliers and bent the left prong in so that it was touching the ball just like the right side was touching the ball and now the ball plunges up the shooter lane and around the loop perfectly.

It has missed a few times but its making the loop 8 out of 10 times now and i believe with a little more tweaking that i can make it even better but im very happy about this progress. I was already told about the prongs by some friends here on Pinside but i never thought to push the auto plunger forward, i just kind of accidently stumbled on to it i assumed that if the prongs were touching the ball in the resting position that they would also be touching the ball when the auto plunger was all the way in the forward position. ...not so though.

Big thanks to Pinabll addicted, hoby1 and dts for all of their help on this issue. I'm not gonna say this is the fix everyone has been looking for but this is definitely some good progress in the right direction.

#825 1 year ago
Quoted from Burley9043:

It seems like there is no "one problem" to fix when it comes to the auto-plunger. The adjustments I finally made to get it to work on my game and the ones that I have read on this thread all seem a little different (e.g. moving shooting lanes, bending auto-plungers, waxing play fields, adjusting power to auto-plunger). It is never as easy as turning this screw a quarter turn. This might be why Stern has not been able to fix this issue as the new games come off the line and why it continues to be frustrating to game owners. But even when every auto-plunged ball in my game was bouncing off the upper flipper every time it launched a ball, it never stopped me from enjoying the game. It just added to the madness.

There are for sure multiple things that could cause the auto plunge not to knock the ball up into the loop correctly, but i would be willing to bet that more often than not most peoples games could be fixed by bending the prongs a little on the auto launcher itself. I had this same problem with my MET and now this game here. I dont want to be overly positive about my fix for sure but i am pretty optimistic that i have solved my problem. Im also optomistic that i can play a little more with it and maybe with the slope and leveling of the game and make it even better, but for right now im leaving it alone and enjoying my game for a few days. I worked my butt off yesterday experimenting with the slope and leveling and i was up and down under the game a hundred times probably and it was frustrating, time to relax and enjoy my new game for a change!

#853 1 year ago
Quoted from dts:

Nah, it’s fixable. I just shot video of trooper multiball, zero misses allowing all balls to drain and reload. Can’t seem to download it to here right now. I suppose if you are whaling on the machine during auto launch you might bounce it off something but I’d think you would be tilting at that point.

With adjustment of the auto plunger prongs my auto plunges have gone from 0% to literally 100% .....yes 100%. I know it isnt going to stay that way forever but when it gets out of whack again, i am confident that i will be able to tune it back in with a little bending of the auto plunger prongs.

#884 1 year ago
Quoted from hocuslocus:

I didn't really look at centering it, it looked somewhat center but I wasn't really paying attention to that aspect.
I figured it was either the way it was getting pushed out or the speed. Didn't make sense that one way worked almost all the time, and not the other.
Appreciate the suggestion, I'll take another look at that next time I'm there.

Also keep in mind that you have to look at the auto plunger when its just sitting there in the resting position and then you need to push it all the way forward and see if its lined up in that position also.

#886 1 year ago
Quoted from dts:

Some more info...I put Cliffy’s in the shooter lane and just that small elevation caused the balls to hit the post below the loop. Adjusted the autoplunger mech prongs, the upper rail of the shooter lane, and back to perfect...for now. I should mention that the right prong is touching the ball now at rest, so I’m not absolutely sure both of them touching the ball is the answer. Probably gonna vary game to game. I’ll keep an eye on it and report back if any of this is useful. At this point I’m gonna sign off on this issue and enjoy my games!

I put them on my MET and it changed everything so i know exactly what you're talking about believe me.

#900 1 year ago
Quoted from zaki:

anyone have this issue. i just updated to new IM code. left sling repeatedly firing 20 times when hit. has to be software issue. worked fine yesterday.

I updated today but didnt notice anything like that. I only played 3-4 games though.

#905 1 year ago
Quoted from db666:

Just updated my Premium to 1.03. Exactly same issue is happening to me.

What exactly is happening? Everytime the ball hits one of the slings it fires 20 times or is it just happening once in awhile or what?

#907 1 year ago
Quoted from db666:

Start game. As soon as ball hits left sling it fires repeatedly and won't stop. Turn off game.
I reloaded 1.02 code and it's not happening any more.

That is strange. I only played a few games last night but it didn't happen to me.

#914 1 year ago
Quoted from db666:

Start game. As soon as ball hits left sling it fires repeatedly and won't stop. Turn off game.
I reloaded 1.02 code and it's not happening any more.

I just went and played about 4 games and mine is playing normal like it should. I have a Premium also if that matters. I reslly dont see how that could be code related though because when the two contacts are pressed together that is what tells the coil to fire and not the computer right? That coil cannot fire unless the contacts create a closed circuit right? The only way the contacts can come together is if the ball hits them. Am i missing something here?

#917 1 year ago
Quoted from hoby1:

I think what is happening the switch pulse is more sensitive now. The sling rubber is probably deflecting back and causing the switch to register and refute the coil
I wish someone would test and let us know. Don’t want to update a buggy code.

Ok gotcha. Well mine doesnt do it and Multiballmaniac has a pro model and his doesnt do it either.

#919 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

This makes me think it’s not software. It would be happening to everyone if it was. I’m no chemist, but I think that’s how it works.

Yeah unless his contacts are just a little closer than mine. Hopefully more people will chime in soon.

#931 1 year ago
Quoted from gearhead:

For what it's worth, here's my experience so far with the auto plunge. My game was I'd say about 80% out of the box. Pretty good, and only really annoying when there was a miss at the beginning of Trooper multi-ball, just cause it's not as cool if all 3 balls don't come down at you at the same time! Mine would make it, or shoot low and hit the post. It would never go high and hit the flipper. By turning the auto plunge down from 255 to 235 my game has gone to 95-98%. I won't say 100% because you're always gonna have an occasional miss, but it gets it almost every time now. I know it seems backwards. If it hits low you'd think it needed more power not less, but that's not the case for mine. My theory is that the ball sits in the middle of the shooter lane and doesn't make contact with the right metal guide. When it's fired it travels straight up the lane until it hits the curve. Because the ball was not in contact with the rail the whole time there's an impact and very slight bounce when it does contact the rail. Think of driving onto a highway on ramp and not turning the wheel until you hit the metal guard rail. This slight bounce varies slightly each time and causes the inconsistency. In my case the bounce sends the ball low into the post. Less power=less bounce. My ball is now more consistent and so makes the shot more consistently. I believe if the ball was just barely touching the rail right from the start, and all the way up and around the curve, it would be much more accurate because there would be NO bounce. I looked at moving the whole rail left to accomplish this but it will require a little more surgery than I'm willing to do at the moment. 95-98% is good enough for me and was super easy by just turning down the power. This may not work the same for you if yours misses high into the flipper. In any case though, I'm willing to bet that minimizing the impact bounce is the key to accuracy.

Changing the auto plunge power did nothing for my game. The fix was all in the prongs.

#932 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

1.03 seems to have made the coil hit stronger for the slings. Turning it down to 20 or less on adjustment #62 of the game-specific adjustments solves this issue. Turn down the trough eject to 180-200 while you're in there. Your machine shooter lane will get beat up less.

Thank you Vireland!

#936 1 year ago
Quoted from gearhead:

Did yours miss high or low before you fixed it with the prongs?

Mine was hitting the upper left flipper every time. I adjusted the left prong in and to the right just a little and it shot perfect but it only lasted one day and then it started shooting low into that post below the loop. I bent the prong to the left just a tad and now it has been shooting literally 100% perfectly almost a week now. This game is so much more fun when it plunges up into that loop like its supposed to.

#937 1 year ago

Double post

#939 1 year ago
Quoted from gearhead:

So you had the opposite problem from me. That makes sense. If you were already shooting high less power on the coil would probably not help. I guess the rail angle and therefore the bounce in every machine is just a little different. Totally agree it's way better when it hits that loop!

Especially when it loads up trooper multiball, that is pretty epic and it never gets old for me. I don't want those balls to miss when it loads them up into the loop.

Got my best friend from high school coming over in an hour to play IMDN. Me and him went and seen Iron Maiden back in 1983. Of course my game is going to be a dildo and start missing that loop shot today probably. Isnt that how it always works? lol

#948 1 year ago
Quoted from hoby1:

1.04 is up on the Premium at Sterns site

Really now? Is something wrong with 1.03 or something?

#950 1 year ago
Quoted from hoby1:

Yes
V1.04.0 - August 15, 2018
=========================
- fixed an issue introduced in 1.03.0 that would complete lit modes when draining a ball without even starting the mode

I think i may leave 1.03 in then because thats the only way i can complete a mode.

#952 1 year ago

Thanks for the heads up hoby!

#966 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

Adjustment #62 on machine specific adjustments. Turn it down to 20 or so. Problem solved. They made the coil action harder and it makes more vibration, triggering sensitive switches.

Vireland i think you meant #69 instead of #62 right? #69 is for the slongshot power. #62 is for the Clairvoyant orb start level

#979 1 year ago
Quoted from scarybeard:

my 'ball lock' loop post has a rubber sleeve on it that slowly rides up over time (predictably)... which gets the ball stuck sometimes until the search happens. I'm assuming replacing the rubber with a 'superbands' style sleeve will solve the problem because they fit tighter than normal rubbers. Anyone else done this and can confirm if its a good fix?
Thanks.
other than That my machine does not seem to have any physical issues.... Although I have noticed that the flipper coils on this machine are at least 2X louder than my Ghostbusters... Have not even lifted the playfield to see if there's a reason for it. anyone else experiencing this?

You have 2X the amount of flippers on this game, maybe that's why it seems louder. Mine doesn't seem too bad though really. Maybe you just need to crank the music up a little louder.

#980 1 year ago
Quoted from BananaJet:

the post underneath the captive ball was loose.

Mine keeps coming loose as well, drives me nuts. Anyone else having this issue? What did you do to fix it if so? Locktite, super glue?

#999 1 year ago
Quoted from FightNightFZ:

Ok two simple playfield questions:
1.) mine has the woodgrain effect all over it, I know this is a historic problem with Stern. Is there a point where it’s worth asking for a replacement?
2.) Not sure if my pitch is off but I have very low plays and lots of dimpling already, is it just the pin in general or my setup?
Thanks!

The wood grain (ribbing) does kind of suck but im sure that only you know that it is there. Mt MET has it also, i wish it wasnt there but i can live with it. As far as dimpling goes, thats going to happen. The more you play it the better it will look.

#1003 1 year ago
Quoted from PinNin:

+1 for tech help from 85vett
Maybe some add that I have overseen or not taken into account on the sling issue. For people that want to go a little deeper into the theory. If you hit with your hand on the playfield you want to have something like a dirac pulse (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dirac_delta_function).
Like 85vett told you, first you have to understand the mechanic, then you fix or adjust it. Software adjustments should stay at the point where the producer set it. For a properly working and adjusted mechanic there is no need to adjust it after a software update.
I'm also working every day with pinball machines a long time and set up a lot of tournaments up to high level. Hopefully it help beginners or non experienced people to keep the fingers of the software adjustments.

It doesnt matter, lets not go there again. Vireland and hoby both know their shit and have helped many people out on here as has 85vette as well im sure. Pinside is lucky to have these guys around and I appreciate all of their help and knowledge that they contribute to this forum. Hoby has personally taken the time out to email me and even call me so he could help me with problems and i didnt even ask him to, he did it on his own.....i mean seriously what a nice guy he is. Vireland is constantly helping people on here and i cant thank him enough for the time he puts into doing it with his pictured instructions. Lets just move on and quit beating a dead horse. None of the help offered was bad advice anyways so its all good.

#1010 1 year ago
Quoted from jorge5240:

Got my Maiden and it is a great game but my is my shooter on wrong. Ball will only leave the shooter lane 50% of the time. It will be an easy fix but pretty amazing they let it leave the factory like that

Is this when you manually plunge the ball or when it auto launches?

#1012 1 year ago
Quoted from jorge5240:

Manual plunge. Auto seems to work pretty darn well so far.

Should be an easy fix. Sounds like your manual plunger just isnt striking the ball dead center.

#1018 1 year ago
Quoted from Maide:

I sent an email to stern on Sunday night, and today I received the updated newton ball actuators they said they'd send me. It's completely fixed my "the newton ball doesn't register 95% of the time" problem, and now it seems to work every hit.
In the first game with the table back down, I immediately unlocked mummy multiball twice, back to back, and had a really great game. This went on for some time after that; this game is a lot more fun when all the major features work!
I attached a picture of the old part (left) and the new, much more pointy part (right), for anyone who was curious. They're roughly the same length.
[quoted image]

Better put some blue loctite on them if you havent done so already or they will come loose and screw your switch up and even afer that i think they will need adjusting from time to time also. This has got to be the shittiest switch design in all of pinball.

#1023 1 year ago
Quoted from Maide:

I think I got it on really tight with my wrench, but it is really hard to tighten it with only the ball to hold onto. I'll check it after some more games this weekend and order some. Thanks for the tip!

Yep it’s impossible to get it good and tight and i hate to tell you this but its going to come loose. I loctited mine but i dont think its going to hold mine either since the loctite isnt drying. I dont know if i got a bottle of bad loctite or what but it seems like it should have dried up instead of staying wet so we will see.

#1046 1 year ago
Quoted from hocuslocus:

yeah there a pain to get working right even with the pointy hex spacer thing... at least for me it was.... mainly the newton orb ball because the pops kept setting the power jackpot off prematurely every now and again.
pretty sure if my newton ball didn't get stuck in the tilted position, it would of made it much easier. There was another post a few pages back that went into more detail on how to fix that as well.
be patient, get it tweaked, its worth it.

The pointed hex thing keeps coming loose and therefore changes the adjustment of the switch. I think most people are putting blue loctite on where the pointed hex piece screws on so it doesnt come loose. I did this to mine and so far so good. I hate the newton switches though. Saying that they suck is an understatement.

#1053 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Dry it with a hair dryer, works for me...

Thank you. Mine did dry inside the threads actually and its holding good for now. Good idea though.

#1056 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballaddicted:

How many of these are in the game?

There are 2, one for the clairvoyant orb switch and one for the mummy sarcophagus lock.

#1076 1 year ago
Quoted from jorge5240:

So will the new actuator solve the mummy newton ball switch issue? Mine is fubared. I can adjust it and it will work for a game or two and then right back to not working. Weird because my orb seems to work fine.

You have to put some blue loctite on it and let it set for 24 hours. Just put a little dab on the threads and then screw the hex post on and tighten it up the best you can and leave it set for 24 hours withiut playing it. If you dont loctite it, it will just keep coming loose again and again and again. The switch itself probably isnt coming out of adjustment, its most likely the hex post coming loose and pushing down on the switch making it too sensitive.

#1079 1 year ago
Quoted from ATLpb:

I had to take my loc premium home to fine tune all the little annoyances that come with Prem/LEs. My game wasn’t 100% perfect until swapping in the rollover switch behind the sarcophagus ball. Cheers to any/all who came up with that idea originally, massive thanks.
I didn’t worry about Cherry nor Williams parts; I just have the standard newer rollover microswitch and it has been flawless in about 30 games. A few more days of “testing” and I can put it back to work for me.
PS: related- my god it is hard to get the responsiveness of the sarcophagus newton ball lock leaf switch pendulum hex rod thingey correct.

Did you put blue loctite on the hex post? Once you do that and adjust the switch it should stay put and work good.

#1090 1 year ago
Quoted from Guinnesstime:

It's a damn disgrace that they still insist on sending this out this way, with no reworked/fixed mechanism. Seems like every special "mech" on a premium / le has an issue, regardless of title.

They are still putting in the plastic post on MET instead of the metal one that doesnt work the way it should and that game has been out six years! I would really just like to ask them in person why the F that they are doing this KNOWING that the game doesnt work properly with the plastic post. I mean seriously, WTF???

But yeah, the Newton ball switches are horrible!

#1092 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

The metal one isn’t a guaranteed solution either. Code should be changed to only have it come up when you shoot the right orbit. Left orbit should always just go around.

Left orbit should go all the way around?? No way. The metal post fixes nearly everyones game. I know there have been a few people that says it didnt fix their game but id like to see that in person to try and figure out why because i went from 100% rejects to 0% rejects so that is proof that its pretty much a guaranteed fix. I didnt just get lucky that it happened. All the metal posts that pinball life sells are the same so i dont know why it would fix my game and do nothing to yours. Stern could and SHOULD put a metal post in MET instead of the nylon posts.

#1095 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Yes way. Only way to fix the issue for 100% of the people. Easy fix too. And you can always feed the pops if you want. Just shoot the right orbit.

Or the very small percentage of people whos game it doesnt fix could figure out why it didnt fix their game maybe also because it obviously has to be a simple solution.

#1096 1 year ago
Quoted from Mtg381:

Not trying to turn this into a MET thread, but what post issue are you referring to? I'd love to fix an issue that I might not have known about!

Here is your fix....enjoy playing your game the way it was intended to play! Its the post at the top of the left orbit that you hit and your ball comes rollong back down the orbit. Its not supposed to do that.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/metallica-owners-thread/page/46#post-2277072

#1098 1 year ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

Question.... I just got a IM Pro... The code is 1.0.. I see that on Sterns site, the latest is 1.04. But when i click on the link to download it, it looks like a word doc file not a zip file. Do i need to install the other codes first prior to 1.04?

No, just the 1.04 code

#1101 1 year ago
Quoted from Mtg381:

Correct. And click the top link, not the READ ME file.

Yep, should be two things you can click on.

#1104 1 year ago
Quoted from Mtg381:

Ah! Mine already has the metal post, but I can see where that would be un-fun. I am going to Pinball Life tomorrow if anyone needs anything!

Yeah its so much more fun when the post stops the ball the way that it should. Mine rejected everytime. I thought it was supposed to be like that and always thought to myself how stupid that was, then i came across the posts of people changing out their nylon posts and replacing them with metal ones to fix the issue. Did you buy your game new or used? Im assuming used and the previous owner put the metal post in?

#1106 1 year ago
Quoted from Mtg381:

A friend of mine bought it new. I'll check with him to see if he changed it or it came like that.
Maiden did come with the pointy newton posts, but that obviously wasn't the ultimate fix.

Im not sure if there ever will be a ultimate fix for the Newton ball switches. Just loctite the posts on and hope for the best is all you can do. So far mine have been good since i put loctite on them.

#1113 1 year ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

When u plunge the ball is it suppose to hit the left orbit?

Should hit the left loop and if it goes half was around and not all the way it will drop into the lane that the left flipper is at and you can hit the ball into the right loop for a skill shot.

When you plunge or when the game auto plunges it shouldn't hit the upper left flipper above the left loop and it shouldn't hit the post below the left loop, it should go into the loop itself. This is a problem though with this game usually and it may require some tinkering and adjusting to make it go into the loop. If the ball wont go into the loop just soft plunge into the little target below the loop, thats a skill shot also.

#1116 1 year ago
Quoted from RA77:

The main issue I have is the Newton ball switch design is SHIT !
I burned another couple of hours stuffing around with this.
I managed to gap the switch with old style post was fine.
Put the new pointy post in and its crap.
Was initially patient, went to the trouble of completely removing newton ball ass'y as it gets sticky.
Cleaned, sanded, oiled base unit. Just CRAP
Pointy Post to Plastic spoon and leaf switch SUCKS BIG TIME !
So pissed off with the erratic nature of a crucial component of the game
Message to Engineers
Please DO NOT USE THIS CRAP IDEA AGAIN !
What happened to the proximity sensors in original design ?
You guys got the cash and the tech
There has to be a better newton switch design !
Go next level please

AMEN!

#1127 1 year ago
Quoted from Rob_G:

The gap requirement leaves very little room for error. Mine 'stick' too, but for now they are working so I will leave them alone. I am hesitant to use any threadlock, but may have to if the hex shafts keep coming loose. Then I will only use a tiny bit of blue threadlock.
Rob

Use the blue loctite, you wont regret it.

#1151 1 year ago
Quoted from Tranquilize:

Common issue. Back of the ramp catches on the loop rail below and behind it momentarily. Use a tiny bit of lube. Problem solved.

Is this below the playfield where you need to put lube or on top?

#1154 1 year ago
Quoted from gearhead:

I removed the mech, cleaned the plunger and lubed the ramp hinges and the plunger link pivot points. Also lubed the back of the nylon plunger link where it presses (and can bind) against the steel when the ramp is in the fully up position.

Got it, thanks. How hard is it to remove?

#1156 1 year ago
Quoted from Maide:

All of a sudden my auto-plunge is making 0% of loops. Has anyone made a guide with images for adjusting the alignment of the auto-shooter? My manual plunge works perfectly, so I don't think I need to adjust the ramp at all. I wasn't able to get any improvements adjusting the power of the shot in the settings either. I have my playfield balanced at 6.5 degrees, which helped someone else in this thread.
There was a post on page 7 by Chalkey saying to lossen three screws, but I don't see a set of three screws that makes sense to adjust? I have four holding it into the playfield, is that what they meant?
If I touch the auto-plunger, I can make it wiggle left/right. Is it normal for the plunger itself to have some play sideways (not the direction it hammers)?

Yes some play is normal. You want set a ball in the shooter lane and let it rest against the prongs of the auto plunger and make sure both prongs touch the ball. If they dont you can carefully bend the prong that isnt touching the ball with a pair of needle nose pliers. Also take the auto plunger and push it all the way forward and make sure the prongs are touching the ball in the forward position as well. Ive only had to bend my left prong on my game.

Make small adjustments each time you bend it because a little bend of the prongs can make a big difference. Also turn your game off when you are checking this to make sure you dont get bit by the auto plunger because it will scare the crap out of you and sometimes it hurts like hell also. The auto plunger will fire when a ball sits on the switch in the shooter lane. Im sure you already know this but just wanted to tell you just in case you didnt.

#1159 1 year ago
Quoted from pauloz:

I have the opposite to everyone else. My auto plunge always goes all the way round to the upper right flipper but manual plunge neve makes it to the upper left flipper.

I can kind of deal with that because you can always just go for the skill shot where the extra ball target is, but i want my auto plunger to shoot the ball up into the loop like it is suppose to. That makes the game much more fun for some reason.

#1169 1 year ago
Quoted from Tranquilize:

I just lubed the bottom of the ramp bracket where it was catching on the ball guide below. If you manually pull up the ramp, you'll see where it catches. It's just because the metal has a sharp edge and slows the ramp dropping. It goes away with time as it dulls.

Thank you!

1 week later
#1179 1 year ago
Quoted from nath2099:

The fix that worked for me on the Orb ball was to elongate the holes in the plastic cup on the switch so it could be easier aligned, then readjust the leaf switch so it triggers with Orb shot but not with lower pop bumper.
With the auto-plunger hitting the post at the skillshot position, a bit of pressure on the launch lane guide and it seems fine for now.
I do have a problem of the Underworld shot will sometimes not sit on the switch, but get stuck between the sub playfield feeder ramp end and the underworld mech. Any ideas on this one?.[quoted image]

Did you loctite the hex pin? If you didnt do that it's just going to loosen up and come out of adjustment again.

#1181 1 year ago
Quoted from nath2099:

No I didn't, but now the ramp is getting stuck open, so I'll do the loctite while it's open fixing that. Argh...

Make sure it is blue loctite and not red. Just a drop on the threads that the hex pin screws on to and get as tight as you can get it and then let the game sit for at least 24 hours. Once you do that and the loctite sets up, adjust your leaf switches and you should be good to go after that.

When that hex pin comes loose it screws the adjustment up that you had on your leaf switch so you are always constantly adjusting. This is a very poor design but this seems to be the best way to deal with it.

#1184 1 year ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

just checking in. Got the new posts mummy is perfect but orb get stuck after a hard impact and needs manual intervention, is this where you are loosening the post using threadlock and thats the fix?

Thst may be something different Neil not sure. The pointy post that screws onto the clairvoyant newton ball comes loose on its own all the time. That is why people are loctiting it to keep it from coming loose.

Does your game have the pointed hex post or the first ones that were made that arent pointed on the end?

#1185 1 year ago
Quoted from nath2099:

No worries, will do. I saw somewhere in this thread a recommended lube for the underworld ramp to fix the issue of it getting stuck open. Do you happen to know what that recommendation was?
For the benefit of others experiencing the same issue, I also fixed the ball getting stuck in the underworld by moving the little ramp that joins the sarcophagus to the underworld (below the playfield) further towards the underworld, and bending the tips of that little ramp up just enough to sit over the underworld mech.
This is before the fix:[quoted image]

Buy some of this on Amazon. Its great stuff and only takes one little drop.

Screenshot_2018-09-29-08-24-05-1 (resized).png
#1193 1 year ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

mine had the old one put the pointy one in, the mummy ball is working great, orb needs manual re-centering...

I think others have had the same problem and maybe put a little bit of oil in the rotating assembly. .if that doesnt work i would get Stern to send you a new one.

2 weeks later
#1220 1 year ago
Quoted from x-rug-x:

Thanks fytr and maide. I think I probably have a combination of both.
I need to learn how to take better pictures of the balls, this picture doesn't capture the difference. The ball on the left is from Dead Pool, a game with more plays. It looks more or less as it did when it went in. The ball on the right is from Iron Maiden: Legacy of the Beast (Pro). I high-lighted the marking that go around the whole ball. There's a ton more marks and dings, but I was trying to capture the bigger scratch. I think this is probably coming from the auto-launch as there's very few things that would go around the whole ball like that. The dings are probably coming from where fytr mentioned.
[quoted image]
Once again, these pictures don't really capture the problem, but I have a lot of scratches already like the one here. The picture doesn't capture the full length of the scratch.
[quoted image]
And once again, difficult to capture with the camera, but you can see the path the ball takes up the shooter lane, and it goes out past the shooter lane, but it was impossible to capture with the camera.
[quoted image]
As I mentioned, the game started not launching the ball 100% (either manual or auto), my theory is that the guide is slowly being moved.
[quoted image]
Lastly, you can really see the ramp taking a pounding, but that one is probably more expected, but you can totally see the line where the ball meets the ramp.
[quoted image]
I don't understand why there's so much exposed metal edges on this game. It'll be fine one every place has been hit and it's pounded smooth, but I'll have to replace the balls once a month at this rate. Kinda sad for a game that's less than a month old to take this sort of pounding. My Deadpool (Pro) looks brand new still and has way more plays.

You worry way too much. Just play pinball and have fun and enjoy your games.

4 weeks later
#1372 1 year ago
Quoted from RA77:

I checked impedance of coils, both at 4 ohms.
Put the old coil back in and it will make loop now,,,, only just at times. funny that most times it makes the drop for inner left loop to upper left flipper for skill shot. lol
Manual launch, orange spring still fine.
Narrowed gap on launch bracket prongs a little has helped, prongs look a little ordinary....had a great test game made GC... got Madness mode for the first time, Wow ! game lasted about 25 minutes and launch did not fade remained lazy though
Would really like to get a stronger auto launch, as voltage is good I'm thinking of trying another coil ?
Factory Coil is 23 800 any suggestion for stronger replacement ? I will request a new main bracket.
Thanks,
Ando[quoted image][quoted image]

Have you also pushed the auto plunger all the way forward RA77 and made sure that the prongs are touching the ball in that position also?

#1375 1 year ago
Quoted from RA77:

Yes, Thanks.
The manual plunge tip was pushing the ball about a mm off the prongs, I added an extra washer on the plunger rod to stop this but it made no difference.
Slow
Normal

So basically your problem is that your auto plunger just isnt striking the ball with enough power to make the ball go up into the loop right? The only questions that come to mind at first is, what is the incline of your playfield and is the ball rattleing around in the shooter lane after it launches and slowing the ball down? Also did it do this before you installed the cliffy? I know that shouldn't matter but sometimes the shooter lane cliffys really mess with your auto plunge.

#1385 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

Yes, you need to clamp the spring steel one for the outside edge of the shooter lane before you tighten the screw(s) on the outer rail or it will be non-stop problems over time.

Why does it cause problems Vireland if you dont clamp it?

#1388 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

Because it moves around over time or still has a slight angle on it that affects the ball rest in the shooter lane.

Hmm....I figured the rail smashed it down when you tightened it. Thanks for the tip!

#1399 1 year ago
Quoted from jalpert:

Don't modify coils. Having anything except the correct coil is not fixing the issue, and probably won't work anyway.
When my game was having issues, the ball was too hitting the top part of the rail too far to the left, you want the ball closer to the right so it comes into contact with the rail right at the start of the bend. If the ball hits the rail after the bend, it will take momentum off.
Just as a test, bend the left and right side of of the auto plunge forks both left a little bit. unfortunately, with he angle of your video, you don't show where the ball comes into contact with the top of the guide very well so I'm not sure if this will work or not, but since it seems things are pretty bad maybe it's worth a try.
Also, don't forget about the ball hitting the rail too hard. Lowering the power of the coil in the menu can help, it can change where the ball hits the guide, which can actually add more "power". When My games was close, I started playing with the power and it's down about 20 from 255 and makes it around every time.

Wanna hear something weird? Ive had my game auto plunging with 100% accuracy for a long time now and i got it that way by bending the prongs on the auto plunger.

2 nights ago i raised the playfield to put on a mod and i didn't even mess with the auto plunger at all, and now my game is not auto plunging 100% anymore lol. There's an explanation for everything but this sure has me scratching my head here.

#1402 1 year ago
Quoted from Tranquilize:

See if shifting the PF to the left or right fixes the issue. I had a BH that would shift and go out of whack. I put a screw in one of the hook slots so the PF had to sit in the same exact place each time.

I will try that tonight and report back. Thanks for the tip!

#1403 1 year ago
Quoted from Tranquilize:

See if shifting the PF to the left or right fixes the issue. I had a BH that would shift and go out of whack. I put a screw in one of the hook slots so the PF had to sit in the same exact place each time.

My playfield wont move any left or right lol. I will bend the auto plunger prong just a tad and I’ll be back in business i think. Gotta get some play time on the new MET code first though so IMDN is gonna take a backseat for a couple of days probably!

3 weeks later
#1467 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Thanks for the tip. Man, getting ahold of the newton ball to adjust (8) is a PITA. For me, loosening it seemed to make it a bit worse. I was able to tighten it a bit and it's working pretty well. It was never awful, but does seem dialed in. Considering the mech, I imagine 98% success is good enough
snaroff

98% is a dream come true.

#1469 1 year ago
Quoted from RA77:

Thanks Rob,
I must reiterate, please all, excuse me for continuosly going on about this junk mech.
take a look at the exploded view provided from Rob , simply unacceptable in today's day and age
Just a huge waste of materials added to the BoM
The worst part is the headaches this mech is causing owners and distributors.
As a pinball tech at a technical level, there is NO way this mech can be reliable !
I never want to see this rubbish again, you are better than this Stern Pinball.
There has never been a worse newton ball.
I ask Stern to come up with a proper solution.

No reason to excuse you RA because you're speaking the truth. It is a poor design plain and simple. Its not a question of if its going to need worked on and adjusted, its when. Stern knew it was a bad design before it ever left the factory, thats what pisses me off more than anything about it.

#1494 1 year ago

You can also just plunge softly for the skill shot below the loop if you dont want to mess with the manual plunger.

#1499 1 year ago
Quoted from patrickvc:

I got the switches today, getting the game tommorow so I wanted to be ready, these feel a little stiff like not feather like to activate. They are the ones that were recommended.

I dont think you're going to need them.

#1501 1 year ago
Quoted from patrickvc:

Ok I guess we’ll see how things work. I know the ramp sticks up sometimes. The seller informed me of that

Mine hasn't done that yet but guys are putting a drop of oil on the hinges and it fixes it. There is a oil on amazon called zoom spout oiler thst is really great stuff. One bottle will last you 5 lifetimes.

31FttTO+IgL._AC_SY400_ (resized).jpg
1 month later
#1681 10 months ago

Sorry if this has been brought up before but i noticed that sometimes when i shoot a loop shot with my right upper flipper that it isn’t registering. Anyone else had this problem? bad opto maybe?

#1684 10 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

It's been brought up before. Ball is likely moving too fast for the opto to register. There is a fix, but I don't have a link. It just involves adjusting the opto, if I remember right.
Edit: Found a post talking about it with a suggested fix. Key post index updated with a link.

Thank you Vireland!

#1702 10 months ago
Quoted from JCNP:

spoke with Dave in tech support. I believe was his name and told him that the balls were flying off the wire form actually on each side maybe more on the left. He says he hasn't heard of that problem

That seems to be his answer on everything. He acted very surprised about the sound issues of this game and then when i called another time he acted very surprised about the Newton balls and said that he hasnt heard of a lot of problems with them. You know what i say to that? Bull f*cking shit! He seems like a decent guy but come on man please don’t lie to me. Im not stupid and i know that these Newton balls are junk and almost everybody hates them and has had some sort of trouble out of them at one time or another.

#1706 10 months ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Wouldn't it be wonderful if Stern had a public defect tracking system that all of us could submit issues and navigate? Sometimes I get the impression that they don't even have an internal defect tracking system!
I recently suggested to a Stern rep that they issue a service bulletin on the shooter lane issue. They said the number of complaints doesn't warrant a service bulletin at the moment. So while many of us solve our problems on Pinside, it's important to also contact Stern about our issues. I've played several IMDN's in the wild and the shooter lanes were AWFUL (both manual and auto plunge). Considering the games design, not having this feature work reliably is a show stopper for me.

Im not really complaining but in the case of IMDN i kind of am. All of my Stern games have been very solid and if i ever have a problem Stern has ALWAYS went above and beyond to help me out. Chaz and David are both good guys and they have both always treated me well everytime i have called them.

#1708 10 months ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Just to be clear, Stern takes good care of me as well. I still think Service Bulletins are great way of reaching folks that aren't as proactive as some of us (or as plugged into Pinside). Iron Maiden is a special case...I've spent more time on it than most of my games combines (over the past 6 months). If a Stern rep tells me they haven't heard about issue "X" with Iron Maiden, I just have a hard time believing it (as you pointed out in your post).

Agreed, but then again what are they going to say? “Yeah these Newton balls are a total disaster and very poorly designed” lol.....i dont see that happening.

2 weeks later
#1821 10 months ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

and add my initials to the code high score

Neil i bet tons of people will be wanting you to autograph their auto launch coils!

#1825 10 months ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

LOL I'm ready!!!
[quoted image]

Lol there you go!

#1840 10 months ago
Quoted from Tranquilize:

Finally had an issue with the sarcophagus lock switch. Was going to replace it with a roller until I realized that the switch is simply bent incorrectly for proper functionality. I just pulled the actuator off, clipped it a little shorter to avoid the tip hitting the end of the ball guide slot, and bent it upward so that the ball comes into contact with it earlier. The original shape of the actuator was bent upward too late and resulted in the ball not depressing it far enough. My alteration will make this bombproof until the cheap Stern switch actually fails.
While I had the glass off and balls out, I decided to tackle the autolauncher. Mine has always worked well after my initial adjustment. I'm at about 90%. I took some layers off the coil, which seems to added a few precent to my consistency.
Switch:
[quoted image]
Coil:
[quoted image]

Dont get too cocky on that switch in the sarcophagus lock because its very finicky and might not turn out as good you think after you play a few games.....ask me how i know. I hope that it is fixed though for you because pulling that sarcophagus lock and soldering a new switch in is no fun at all. Good luck.

#1844 10 months ago
Quoted from Tranquilize:

I've fixed and replaced many switches in my time. The original switch was bent in a way that required too much pressure from the ball. After my fix it takes feather light pressure to trigger it, just like the upper switch. I'm extremely confident. I'll let you know if and when it fails though!

I hope it doesnt fail but I thought mine was fixed and i started patting myself on the back too soon and had to end up putting in a new switch which wasnt an easy job. Those switch arms are made out of spring steel and not easily adjustable like most switches. Hopefully you got it right though, sounds like you probably did.

1 week later
#1877 9 months ago
Quoted from Flex_in_Aus:

Noticed the clear coat bulging around a sling post the other day. On closer inspection I can see this is happening on posts around the p/f at varying degrees of severity.
Interested to know if anyone else is having the same issue are am I the lucky one?
Its hard to tell if it is just the clear lifting, or the artwork as well.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Common issue on the IMDN games but hasn't caused any issues that I've heard of.

2 weeks later
#1881 9 months ago
Quoted from DrMark12PA:

Has anyone noticed having issues with the sound all of a sudden becoming much more clear and more bass? It's almost as if the sound changes similarly to when your ears pop. I've noticed it happen a few times on my premium and again tonight.

Yep it happens to my game and others that i know as well. It will probably return to normal soon. Either that or maybe i just get used to the change, not sure?

5 months later
#2116 3 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

robogrip with a microfiber cloth to hold the ball while you turn the bottom part with a deep socket? I know in some of the later ones they may have used loctite, so heating the post on the bottom near the collar up a little might help.

If its blue loctite it should come apart easily with no heating. Hopefully nobody used the red loctite on it.

#2126 3 months ago
Quoted from Dron986:

vireland went to switch test and tried hitting the playfield sharply, even tried hitting sharply by both newton balls. Nothing registered. The two newton balls only registered when hit with a pinball.

Its most likely the Newton ball on the lower part of the playfield. Before you try adjusting the switch though make sure that the pointed hex post below the playfield hasnt loosened up. If it has just tighten it back up and you will be good to go. They come loose often and it messes with the adjustment on that switch and hitting the flippers will make it register a switch hit.

If that's what it is and it keeps coming loose just put a drop of "blue" (not red) loctite on the threads and your problem will be solved.

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