(Topic ID: 217498)

Iron Maiden issues


By rvdv

1 year ago



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Topic index (key posts)

9 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #96 sarcophagus switch fix. Posted by DG_Amuse (1 year ago)

Post #434 Black t-moulding pictured to replace stock banana yellow. Posted by Strummy (1 year ago)

Post #597 Stern fix for Newton Ball issues on LE Posted by Fytr (1 year ago)

Post #887 Fix for fast balls not registering on upper loop Posted by PinNin (1 year ago)

Post #1039 Picture of factory fix for bad mummy newton ball on Prem/LE Posted by RA77 (1 year ago)

Post #1343 Fix for fast balls leaving wireforms Posted by Kevlar (1 year ago)

Post #1452 Shim method to get auto launch to work nearly 100% Posted by hank35 (12 months ago)

Post #1713 How to fix auto launch forever. Posted by NeilMcRae (10 months ago)


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#144 1 year ago

I’ve had many similar issues mentioned in this thread, but I’ve managed to get my game running smooth quickly.

1. Ramp got stuck in up position: checked the mech and realized the back fold of the ramp has a sharp edge and was momentarily sticking on the ball guide below the back of the ramp. The mech would trigger the release coil, but the ramp would miss it as it was momentarily stuck. I used a qtip and a tiny bit of 3in1 oil and lightly oiled the ball guide behind the ramp. Problem solved. After 50 plays or so, the ramp no longer rubs the guide as far as I can tell. Strange.

2. Switches in sarcophagus lock: I just had to do a bend adjustment to find the sweet spot for the front switch. I also depressed the switch forcefully many times to loosen it up. I’ve had to do this with replacement cherry switches on w/b machines in the past.

3. Both captive balls: gapped them about 0.5mm each and all is well. Left orb needed a second gapping as the bumpers would occasionally trigger it. Remember to thoroughly test the gapping with the glass off and one ball in switch test. This will save you time as getting it right may take a few tries.

I’m hoping stern mods the captive ball rods to mimic pop bumper rods more closely. The hex metal is too wide to be sensitive enough. Plus the switches are mounted away from where the most common hits/momentum would come from.

All in all, I’ve found it not too bad for adjusting. That being said, stern, as always, could have done a better job.

#155 1 year ago
Quoted from kpg:

It's disappointing that so many people are experiencing this issue.

It’s a non issue imo because it’s pretty easy to fix. My DILE has had issues and adjustments too. It’s the nature of pinball.

That being said, I went to adjust my plumb bob and the screw adjuster stripped with very little pressure. The bob threads literally turned to powder. I tapped new, thicker threads with just the tap in hand and it was way too easy. The bob is made of some crap powdered metal. I’m amazed at how Stern is able to skimp on almost every part they source.

#239 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

For experienced hobbyists it's no big deal. For newbies, I'm sure it more traumatic
snaroff

Totally agree. For those holding back on a purchase due to switch issues, I wouldn't bother. Is this pin a little more finicky? For sure, but you'll learn a lot more about switch adjustment and shooter rod positioning. You need to know this stuff, even for w/b machines. I don't mind tweaking at all as I've done so much of it over the years. This game will get thrown out of whack during shipping, almost guaranteed. My only complaint is having to reinforce the cabinet... Oh, stern....

#252 1 year ago

I think I have a opto issue with the large loop. Can someone verify proper scoring? When I ride the loop repeatedly super fast, my loop count only goes up about half of the loops I score, and the score lights often do not raise as I think they are supposed to. When I push the ball around the loop slowly, the scores go up with each loop. The physical switch on the right is fine, but the left opto seems to miss occasionally when I'm in switch mode. Any one have any experience adjusting the newer stern optos?

#263 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

Is there an adjustment? Optos usually work or they don't, unless the electronics are flaky or the beam is partially obscured by the installation.

I was referring to positioning. I’ve worked with quite a few optos, but these are really far back from the holes in the quite rails... seems like a bad design to me.

#264 1 year ago
Quoted from Diospinball:

Okay.... So my game worked well for about 4-5 hours one day... And then probably 3 hours the next day as well. But, now I'm having the underworld ramp stick up quite frequently... I was happy as I was able to fix the issue myself. And then I was able to play for about 30 minutes... And then it happened again... So I fixed it again. It's just a little bit of the unit getting stuck and caught on another mech. Don't know the specifics.. But, I know a lot of you are having this issue as I read this entire thread.
So now its sticking after only a few minutes of gameplay... Should I try the 3 in one oil thing and lube it up???? Did that work for anyone else???
Should I contact stern and get a new mech... Don't know how easy it is to swap it out... But, I can try...
I can't try the one advice of bending the piece as I don't have a vice or any of the tools to do it.
And I do have trouble with the captive balls or orbs... They don't always register... But, they do for the most part... Its just frustrating when you get a nice clean strong hit and it doesn't register. But, for the most part they work fine... I might tweak those later... But, I am more worried about getting my ramp fixed.
Also... I have some small scratches on my translite near the top of it... Not a big deal... But, I did pay a lot of money for this machine. Should I try to get that replaced???? I mean. You wouldn't buy a new car with a scratch. Why should I settle for one on my translite...
But, I am more interested in hearing the thoughts on the underworld ramp. Any suggestions for pointers would be welcome.

The lube will take 1 min to apply, so it won’t hurt to try...

#266 1 year ago
Quoted from RobKnapp:

It is a long shot . But I always keep some clip-on ferrite beads in my tool box for trouble some opto's . STLE needed many.
A ferrite bead or ferrite choke is a passive electric component that suppresses high frequency noise in electronic circuits. It is a specific type of electronic choke. Ferrite beads employ high frequency current dissipation in a ferrite ceramic to build high frequency noise suppression devices.

This sounds like nasa equipment. I’ll have to look into them!

#298 1 year ago
Quoted from Billy16:

Does the wire form have to come off to get to the plastics?

You dont need to remove the plastics. I just took off the right gate screw and loosened the left nut and slid it out of the way. Then I took off the nut under the wire form that secures the plastic. I then then lifted the plastic and slid it to toward the outside of the cab with the pf up on the rails. Be sure put some paper or something between the plastic and the post or you’ll scratch it. You can now get in there with a flathead. This saves a ton of b.s.

#328 1 year ago
Quoted from Gryszzz:

Code 1.0 is up.

Dammit! I'm just heading out the door. Can someone post the list of additions/changes???

#380 1 year ago

Can someone verify the wiring for the upper left opto. Mine's missing switch hits, and I've heard the it might be mounted backwards. Does yours look the same as mine?

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#400 1 year ago

Figured out my opto issue. Ignore this post and the next one.

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#479 1 year ago
Quoted from skink91:

I really dig this and want to do it, but am a little worried about warranty voiding. Maybe I will shoot Stern an email asking about this?

Warranty doesn't officially cover almost anything anyway. You're always dealing with Stern's goodwill. They appear to be quite generous.

#495 1 year ago

#woodgraingate

#535 1 year ago
Quoted from jk2171:

I am dealing with an intermittent trough board or wire on my Premium. The trough opto board closest to center of cabinet has a connector with two wires. I have reseated it numerous times but the vibration of the slings or overall gameplay loosens it so that it stops working. The machine then tries kicking every ball out of the trough. I go into Clear Balls test, take all the balls out of the trough and with just a slight wiggle on the connector can make all the opto switches in the trough show open, closed and vice versa. Super frustrating....not sure how to fix. Emailed Stern support.

Bend the prongs on the board slightly outward so that they fit into the plug tighter. Then test. When it's working well, use a hot glue gun and put a dab of glue on the connection joint. Then play the game until you get carpel tunnel in both hands.

#537 1 year ago
Quoted from Diamond:

Just got my premium last night. The right and bottom pop bumpers are continuously lit. The left pop bumper only lights when ball hits it. Is this normal or do I have an issue with a light?

Normal. Left is a flasher.

#548 1 year ago
Quoted from jk2171:

Thanks for the advice! I will try this. Hot glue on the connector, or the prongs?

Just the connector and the board, to hold the connector in place.

#581 1 year ago
Quoted from mrgregb123:

my DILE has far fewer dimples but 9x more games played. My TAF original pf that I restored and cleared with PPG has a couple of dimples after 200 plays.
So in summary - every pf dimples. But the quality of the wood and clear coat make a big difference. IMDN is likely worst-in-class as far as that goes.

My DILE looks about the same with regard to dimpling. Don't notice it on either unless I bend down to get the perfect angle of light. While I'm down there, I usually find some scratches too!

Both companies could dry their ply longer, but to me, it's a non-issue.

Quoted from Robertstone0407:

Has anyone considered upgrading there flipper coils to the next level? I feel like even on hard and 6.3 level its a chore to get stuff done sometimes

Def check your mech. My flippers are on the side of being too strong for the game, and mine is prob around 7 degrees.

#583 1 year ago

I concur. My DILE had a ton of issues too. That being said, JJP does not cheap out like stern, so stern does deserve their lesser reputation.

#600 1 year ago
Quoted from Fytr:

So I was told that Stern has a fix available for the chronically out of adjustment newton ball switches.
I called Stern Support and asked for the fix. They sent me a new bottom post that screws onto the newton ball post under the playfield. It has a much sharper point on it than the stock post. I haven't had a chance to measure the stock one to see if it's any longer or not though.

Of course, they only sent one.
Since I loosened/lowered the stock posts 2 full rotations and used loc-tite on the threads to keep them there my switches are probably working 95% of the time and never false firing. I'm going to wait and see how it goes before I bother putting this new post on.
In any case, I'd recommend contacting Stern support to get them to send out this replacement post if you are having issues. Make sure then send you 2x of them though.

Please do let us know if it's the same length. 5 minutes on the grinder is all I'll need.

#614 1 year ago
Quoted from hank35:

Have any new Premium owners noticed any factory changes to fix the issues found in this thread?
I'm ready to pull the trigger on this pin, but I'm not looking to play mechanic on something Stern should have fixed/corrected on a variety of issues.

stern meme

#616 1 year ago

New issue: When in mummy multiball and revive is lit, if two balls drain at the same time, you only get one back. Not sure if this happens in other multiballs, but I'm assuming so. Anyone else experience this?

#621 1 year ago
Quoted from Fezmid:

I posted this in the Bugs thread, but when in Trooper Multiball with 4 balls, if you lose two balls at the same time, you don't get any back AND you lose the revive.

Sorry that I missed your post. Thanks for confirming.

#631 1 year ago
Quoted from Quadrat:

Just got my pro and it had a QA stamp. Mine has worked great out of the box. Not sure if the QA is getting better or not. Loving this game.

QC is at typical stern levels. No better, no worse.

2 weeks later
#775 1 year ago

Set it up so the ball shoots slightly high and hold up the top flipper. This gives me about 85%. Works well enough. I always shoot for the center target skill shot, so the manual plunge doesn't matter much. There will never be a fix because it's basic physics. If you nudge, which you should, the level on your game will change each time. That is what I find makes the most difference, and it's just not fixable.

2 weeks later
#815 1 year ago
Quoted from Who-Dey:

Already did that too, forgot to mention that.

Reinstalling software could def fix the issue. Check all audio settings as well. Switch ohms back and forth too.

#817 1 year ago
Quoted from Who-Dey:

I just reinstalled the software and it didnt fix the issue. I know changing the ohms around can be a bad thing so im not gonna mess with that. What a bummer this is.

Switching the Ohms won't hurt anything. Stern had it set wrong before updates.

#828 1 year ago

I've solved my auto plunger woes.

To the autoplunge crew: you're never going to get it to work 100%. It is a simple physics problem. The machine has very little leeway or space to nail the loop with the upper flipper in the way. On top of that, this machine needs more nudging than a child entering a haunted house, so the machine is always going to essentially change shape, and the table will never maintain a perfect level. If you have rubbers on the legs it will be worse because the legs cannot slide strait again after a nudge.

SOLUTION: hold the upper flipper up whenever balls launch. I get 90%+ balls around the loop with this simple learned adjustment. Hell, some even make it around when the flipper is down, but I don't expect them to. I also leave the flipper down when I want to gain control quickly to score a soul shard etc. To me, this is part of the game and is perfectly fine.

As for the manual plunger, it will change too. I find the light plunge skill shot the best bang for difficulty, so I never plunge for the loop. In my eyes, my game works wonderfully.

Think of all the ball'n beer time I have!

#846 1 year ago
Quoted from fuseholder:

Tell Chas or Patrick to send you stronger springs. I had the exact same issue and replaced with the ones sent and have not had an issue since.

While this bandaid may work, it is not the correct solution. Your flippers should barely need springs at all. If the spring is not pulling it down, you should find the cause of the unwanted friction. Friction wears on parts quickly. Fix it correctly and be done with it!

#850 1 year ago
Quoted from BananaJet:

I'm definitely able to lift up on all of the other 3. The upper lift is working okay now, but it is definitely in there way tighter than the others and does not have any up/down play to it. According to my wife, it was slowing down again earlier today. It seems like there is "friction" or maybe more resistance compared to the other three when I move the flippers by hand.
I'll take another look and try to see if there is a coil sleeve. (Edit: All 4 flippers appear to have coil sleeves.)
Thanks for all of the replies, I really appreciate it.
I took some video clips of the flippers from the top and bottom of the playfield showing the spring and flipper movement in action, and sent them to Stern. Hoping to hear back soon.

Also check the angle at which the plunger enters the coil. I’ve seen coils installed at angles that cause tip of the plunger to rub on the sleeve. You should be able to test this by flicking the flipper under the playfield. There should be no resistance aside from the spring. Removing the spring will allow you to feel any resistance even more. Lastly, disassemble the flipper and check the plunger and sleeve for specific wear. Sometimes just reassembling clears up resistance issues.

#851 1 year ago
Quoted from dts:

It's not true. Keep trying but make the adjustments in small increments.

If you nudge often, it is unfortunately true.

#865 1 year ago
Quoted from dts:

Nah, it’s fixable. I just shot video of trooper multiball, zero misses allowing all balls to drain and reload. Can’t seem to download it to here right now. I suppose if you are whaling on the machine during auto launch you might bounce it off something but I’d think you would be tilting at that point.

I never claimed that it wouldn't work for periods of time. My claim is that it will never be consistent for the long run due to the geometry of the game changing constantly. Very little change can change the autolauncher significantly. I went through the adjustment process twice and finally realized the reality of the situation. If you can get yours to be consistent, please share your secret with the group.

#866 1 year ago
Quoted from fuseholder:

The flippers should barely need springs? Well, there is a reason they are on there and used on all flipper assemblies and it’s part of the way it works. Also, I’m assuming that he had looked and checked the mechanics without the power on to see if it moved freely without any friction.

I don't want to sound combative, but you do understand what "barely" means, right? The springs are very weak springs for a reason: they "barely" need to pull on the flipper to bring it back to position as gravity helps as well. I didn't say that everyone should pull off the springs in all their machines and throw them away - far from it. And to assume that people that are new to understanding flippers understand how to check friction is a big assumption. Many new pinheads are scared to raise the playfield.

#867 1 year ago
Quoted from Monte:

It would be highly unlikely in such a new game to have issues with the plunger or sleeve for wear unless it was assembled incorrectly.
I’ve had to replace two springs on a friends Guardians. One just snapped in the middle which was bizarre. The other side was a off in its size and appeared to have reduced elasticity. (The left flipper return to rest was lethargic) Maybe, it was a shitty batch from their vendor or just the wrong ones. Who knows? However, the spring is something that is to be looked at and thought about as perhaps a problem and not a band-aid fix or a incorrect solution.

If we're arguing that the spring is defective or the incorrect size, then yes, the spring should be replaced. From what I understood, the fix posed was to replace a correct spring with a stronger spring. As for the sleeve and plunger, sometimes even a slight angle in the way a screw was screwed into the PF can cause the direction of the plunger to be off, hence causing friction. You'd see this in the sleeve right away. On a new game, the wear would be minimal, but with a bright light, you'd see it. I'm only suggesting that a close check for friction has fixed this type of flipper issue for me 100% of the time with a working spring. I'd guess that I've come across the issue about 20 times or so.

#868 1 year ago
Quoted from Multiballmaniac1:

Maybe it’s time I got one. Shouldn’t have to though. They can’t put a quality speaker in the bill of materials for 5600. Lame.

I do powered subs on all my games. It's night and day, honestly. I always buy mine used and local online. You wouldn't believe how many people sell really kickass subs for dirt. For IMDN, I just turned the settings of the cab speaker down to nothing, so it's pretty much eliminated from the sound system. It is, by far, the worst sounding cab speaker I've ever heard. From what I've read, it's the cheap amp. I may replace the amp and put in a good cab speaker some day to eliminate the powered sub.

#873 1 year ago
Quoted from BananaJet:

Sorry to quote myself, but reference the picture above: I would like to loosen and adjust that upper left flipper on my Iron Maiden, but the bolts that hold the flipper to the plunger/spring are tight as heck. I have the right sized hex to fit them, but I don't want to break anything trying to get it loose. Any advice? Looking on the web, other flippers seem to have larger nuts/bolts where you could use a wrench but the Stern flipper just has a small bolt with a hex head on it. Just can't get enough torque to get it loose with a tiny hex wrench, and I'd like to avoid breaking the thing.
Thanks again for all of the help/replies!

You can use pliers or a wrench to get more torque on the hex. I just find a metal bracket, like a coil stop or something, to hang onto with part of my hand. Then I scream ADRIAN like Stallone as the hex digs into my fingers. Then the bolt comes loose. Everytime.

1 week later
#992 1 year ago

Order them straight from stern. I never bother going through a dist. Why add a middle man?

#996 1 year ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

they wont send to the UK... they used to do that but not any more.
Neil.

Bummer, dude. That's just bad support. Another reason to reconsider dealing with Stern.

#1001 1 year ago
Quoted from FightNightFZ:

Ok two simple playfield questions:
1.) mine has the woodgrain effect all over it, I know this is a historic problem with Stern. Is there a point where it’s worth asking for a replacement?
2.) Not sure if my pitch is off but I have very low plays and lots of dimpling already, is it just the pin in general or my setup?
Thanks!

Neither are problems.

4 weeks later
#1150 1 year ago
Quoted from gearhead:

So the center ramp on my Premium stopped working the other day. It would go up, but never come back down. To make a long story short, the ramp needed lubrication. I cleaned the coil plunger and put a very small amount of Teflon spray lube on the ramp hinges and plunger hinges. The problem is that the magnetic relay that holds back the catch for the ramp pulses only just barely long enough to let the ramp release. ANY delay in the falling of the ramp will result in the relay releasing the catch too soon and the ramp won't fall. Stern should really update this so that the relay and catch stay active longer to give the ramp more time to drop. I can see this being a problem as ramps age, wear, slow down.

Common issue. Back of the ramp catches on the loop rail below and behind it momentarily. Use a tiny bit of lube. Problem solved.

#1166 1 year ago
Quoted from Who-Dey:

Is this below the playfield where you need to put lube or on top?

I just lubed the bottom of the ramp bracket where it was catching on the ball guide below. If you manually pull up the ramp, you'll see where it catches. It's just because the metal has a sharp edge and slows the ramp dropping. It goes away with time as it dulls.

#1167 1 year ago

Any tips and tricks for these two issues?:

1. Ball balancing at the back of the PF after resting on right post. Have to wait for ball search to fire the post to send the ball to the upper left flipper. This is happening more and more lately, enough that I need to find a fix. Really sux when 3x is going.

2. Ball balancing on on a lowered drop target. This happens when 1, 2 or all three are down. Have to wait for ball search, and the ball is launched to perfectly bank into the right outlane. Drives me nuts when I'm doing well. Need a fix!

2 weeks later
#1204 1 year ago
Quoted from Yfichelle:

Hi all,
I have a IM pro and change my factory speakers for the 502 jbl (like the premium/le).
Has someone the perfect settings for these speakers (some people put 4 ohms with these speakers but i find its not better) ?
Do you think its important to change the speaker in the cabinet under the playfield ?
Thanks a lot,
Yannick

Gotta install a better amp. You're powering a Ferrari with a four cylinder engine.

1 week later
#1215 1 year ago
Quoted from Dipstickjimmy:

I am having the same issue with the ramp getting stuck open on my LE. Is there any fix you have found?

The sharp edge at the rear of your ramp is hanging up on the ball guide below. Put a little 3 in 1 oil on the ball guide where the ramp is rubbing. It will eventually dull and won't be a problem. I had to only oil it once a long time ago.

#1222 1 year ago
Quoted from x-rug-x:

Thanks fytr and maide. I think I probably have a combination of both.
I need to learn how to take better pictures of the balls, this picture doesn't capture the difference. The ball on the left is from Dead Pool, a game with more plays. It looks more or less as it did when it went in. The ball on the right is from Iron Maiden: Legacy of the Beast (Pro). I high-lighted the marking that go around the whole ball. There's a ton more marks and dings, but I was trying to capture the bigger scratch. I think this is probably coming from the auto-launch as there's very few things that would go around the whole ball like that. The dings are probably coming from where fytr mentioned.
[quoted image]
Once again, these pictures don't really capture the problem, but I have a lot of scratches already like the one here. The picture doesn't capture the full length of the scratch.
[quoted image]
And once again, difficult to capture with the camera, but you can see the path the ball takes up the shooter lane, and it goes out past the shooter lane, but it was impossible to capture with the camera.
[quoted image]
As I mentioned, the game started not launching the ball 100% (either manual or auto), my theory is that the guide is slowly being moved.
[quoted image]
Lastly, you can really see the ramp taking a pounding, but that one is probably more expected, but you can totally see the line where the ball meets the ramp.
[quoted image]
I don't understand why there's so much exposed metal edges on this game. It'll be fine one every place has been hit and it's pounded smooth, but I'll have to replace the balls once a month at this rate. Kinda sad for a game that's less than a month old to take this sort of pounding. My Deadpool (Pro) looks brand new still and has way more plays.

As stated above, you're worrying too much. Restore a few older machines so that you can see games that had the same balls in them for 20 years and show wear that isn't bad at all. Many of these games are full of sharp metal too. Yes, you should change balls here and there and keep your games generally clean, but it's going to take 10+ years of horrid neglect before you see any sort of serious PF wear.

#1225 1 year ago
Quoted from x-rug-x:

I had a Theatre of Magic, Earthshaker and Jokerz!. I did complete playfield replacement on Earthshaker because it was worn to the bare wood, so I know how bad it can be. I had the same balls in ToM that I put in shortly after I got it, and they looked nothing like these after 10+ years of use. I think I get it.
Admittedly, what I don't get is having a new game. Dimpling is a good example. My prior games were all pre-dimpled. This might be similar experience. Maybe this ball wear is similar to dimpling in the way that I just need more of it. All I know is this is the first set of balls that made me say "Holy crap." and made me take a closer look.

I find the new clear to be thicker and clearer, making new pfs far more vivid, like rain on a car. This makes every dimple and scratch stand out. My older machines all have dimpling and scratches everywhere, albeit they are more difficult to see because the pfs are old.

You do have a point about pre diamond-plated games like earthshaker, but i'd still say it was likely routed for most of its early life, completely neglected and played to shit. I'm currently fixing aToM for a friend and recently finished a CBL, both routed and neglected. Both games came with rusty, scratched balls and a thick layer of crusted dirt covering the inlanes. Both cleaned up great.

You would have a tough task on your hands to wear even half way through current clear with the worst balls in a home environment. Tumbling can help if you're really worried about it. I tumble all balls once per year if I get around to it as I don't see scratches on balls and playfields as alarming as some others do. All this said, maybe my IMDN LE will look like a turd in ten years and yours will look pristine.

-1
#1243 1 year ago

Stern reengineer a cheap part? Pure comedy. Vote with your wallet. IMDN is my last Stern, no matter what theme/design comes in the future. IMDNLE was the same price as DILE, and I'd argue DI has 30% more value and plays just as good if not better. Plus it has replaceable transistors. Wait till your IMDN breaks. When the node boards start failing, peeps gonna be pissed.

#1245 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

Spike node boards have transistors you can replace. The other stuff? Not so much. But it DOES have transistors.

Ah, good point. I don't know the node system too well yet. Hoping that I never have to learn it!

#1254 1 year ago

To me, it looks like the outside corner on your wire form is low. Video isn’t clear though. I’d be looking to raise it or devise a way to slow the ball down prior to the corner. I slowed ball travel on my DILE ramp return to fix a similar issue.

#1263 1 year ago
Quoted from jalpert:

No matter what, I can’t get YouTube to process this in 1080, here is a link for download:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/wnl9wzqklonrhkr/IMG_0168.TRIM.MOV?dl=0

The problem is the ball guide at the first corner. If you watch closely, that is where the ball goes off the track the first time. This creates a back and forth motion, causing the ball to have the perfect momentum and timing at the final corner to fly off.

Two easy fixes:
1. Raise your machine at the back to slow the ball travel up the ramp. Makes the game better anyway.
2. Slow the ball travel by putting something on the track.

One hard fix:
1. Use two pairs of vice grips with shop toweis to prevent scratching. Bend the wireform at the first corner to keep the ball on the center track.

I used sticker foam on my DILE to prevent jumps. 2mins to fix, no bending and works like a charm.
IMG_20181026_124445 (resized).jpg
Here is where I would do the same, if I were you:IMG_20181026_124532 (resized).jpg

#1271 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

But 2 Minutes to Midnight is a mode. I don't think the visuals will fit at all with Speed of Light.
The only thing that's weird about using the external amp is when you shut the machine off, it almost makes a wheezing sound since the amp is always powered and you hear the line out lose signal. Not bad, just strange the first time.

Why not run the amp off the post-switch power?

#1273 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

Lazy. The service plug's right there.

Ahh, good answer. Playing more pinball is probably better

#1282 1 year ago

On a side note, you need to keep up on cleaning and waxing the PF. If mine gets dirty at all, the misses start happening. After I clean and wax, she's back to 100%.

Piss-poor design by Stern, but not a surprise.

#1290 1 year ago

They just needed to make adjusting it easier. I may put a notch in the plastic so that I can access the adjustment nut on the fly. A higher post screw would be better as well. Many machines have this feature, and Stern should have planned for this issue.

#1312 1 year ago
Quoted from Rob_G:

Since I had taken the node board out, I decided to re-route a few wires, cut a few tie straps and reduce a lot of tension on the wiring connectors. It's much better than it was before. If you have a premium or LE, check the sarcophagus wiring to make sure it isn't secured too tight, or it causes wire bending at the switch will eventually lead to a wiring failure from flexing too much at a single point.
Just a few more small connectors to re-attach.....
Rob
[quoted image]

We should create a masterclass video: "50 ways to fix your brand new Stern."

#1318 1 year ago
Quoted from jalpert:

This is the biggest bunch of shit I might have ever read on this site. DI plays like shit because JJP used incorrect ramp flaps on both of the orbit shots. Instead of a nice clean flowing game, it's a bunch of bricks and misses because the balls are catching air when they shouldn't, hitting places they shouldn't, and not making the shots they should. The fact that I took the ramp pieces out, tapered them with a dremel and put them back in to fix the issue proves just how serious it is. The game plays night and day when the issue is fixed. Lots of people are having the issue, most people don't realize it, and I tried to tell JJP about the issue and they didn't care at all. Something SO simple just kills DI, so lets not start some JJP vs Stern bullshit.
I could also tell you about my NIB WOZ RR that was so awful the ball couldn't even complete the very first ball launch, they didn't dress the wires under the castle mini and the ball would just hang up under it. That's some awesome QC right there, they didn't even plunge the ball.

My DILE has none of the issues of ball travel that you speak of with the loops.

DILE: Large LCD, Servicable PC under the hood, Better speaker design, more servicable, Phone LCD, Theatre LCD, 5 magnets, real sewer with trap door, LED ramps, Mechanic arm diverter, Stunning animations on ALL THREE lcds, selfie camera, headphone jack and external volume control, Bluetooth app control, lower right switch, proper leg brackets, full color manual that weighs 5 pounds...

IM: Sarcophogus lock mech, two captive balls, simulated mirrored backglass, an LED Tower thing, half size LCD with incomplete animations that will likely never be finished, foil side art.... Hmmm. Struggling here, so help me out.

Gameplay: IMDN plays wonderful when the autolaunch decides that it will work for a while. DILE has it's issues, but I find it plays a little smoother. Still love the IMDN gameplay though.

Now that I've thought out loud, I can clearly see that choosing DILE as better value for the dollar is the biggest bunch of shit I might have ever read on this site myself! Stern for the win!

#1329 1 year ago

Just gotta adjust that ball guide. Play while it lasts, and do-er again!

#1347 1 year ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

Well....I just cleaned my Iron Maiden (just novus 1 this time)...and, changed out my balls to ball baron ninjas. Of course....this drastically affects my plunge path. Since the ball is moving much faster it hits the bottom post about...100% of the time. I already pushed in the guide wall a bit (lowering auto plunger power didn't affect it enough), but I'm hesitant to do too much because as soon as the Playfield gets a bit dirty it will start slowing down some. Man, what a continual task this is going to be with adjusting the plungers!

I chose to adjust mine after a clean and wax. The game reminds me when to clean and wax when the launcher starts to miss. I prefer to make my own decisions about when I work on my machines, but IMDN has a mind of its own. I expected far worse quality from Stern, so I'm pretty happy with the machine, even with its general Stern cheapness.

#1349 1 year ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

That's not a bad idea, though it still might make more sense to adjust after cleaning after....30-40 games? I mean, the game plays pretty different right after a clean/wax for a few dozen games, then after that is a much more gradual change, right?
Here is another question. I bought these LED lights, mainly as a 'proof of concept' or...just to try out some different colors ->
https://www.pinballlife.com/ablaze-1-led-4447-bayonet-base-lamp-with-frosted-lens.html
So...I also bought the "upgraded" versions in warm white for underneath the slingshot plastics, and they work fine ->
https://www.pinballlife.com/ablaze-premium-ghost-buster-1-smd-led-4447-bayonet-base-lamp-with-clear-dome.html
And...I think the warm white is a better color for that location (especially of the color theme of the PF near there). But...I was wanting to try Purple for the inlane/outlane plastics.
However, the cheaper purple LEDs don't work here? ->
[quoted image]
The same purple LED works fine if I put it in the backboard? ->
[quoted image]
The factory LEDs both say 6.3VAC on them in both locations (inlane and backboard), so...what am I missing?

Yeah, but then every time you clean the game it will be screwed up. I'd rather just keep it clean. I don't need to wax each time. I just give it a quick wipe down.

As for your lights, I'd test the voltage from the sockets to get a clear idea of what you're feeding the bulbs.

#1356 1 year ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

Unfortunately, I'm not an electrician and haven't used a multimeter, though I am willing to try. Though even if I did check/know the voltage...it wouldn't tell me why the ablazes would work in the backboard but not in the inlane slots? And...the descriptions for the ablazes on PBL have no indication of needing a particular voltage. They just say they should work on a modern stern.
Basically...the $.89 ablazes work fine in the inlane slots, just not the cheaper ones, though the cheaper ones work in the backboard. Neither LED version on PBL describes voltage requirements...

The reason I suggested the voltage check is to see if you have a problem with the board sending the incorrect voltage. Knowing how to use a meter is handy as it takes literally 20 seconds if the socket is available and powered.

If cheaper ones that run on the same voltage work fine, it sounds like an issue with the bulbs. Maybe they are physically different in size (the bottom bit) and the socket isn't connecting well?

Strange issue. Warm white sounds like the better choice for that GI zone anway!

1 week later
#1400 1 year ago
Quoted from Who-Dey:

Wanna hear something weird? Ive had my game auto plunging with 100% accuracy for a long time now and i got it that way by bending the prongs on the auto plunger.
2 nights ago i raised the playfield to put on a mod and i didn't even mess with the auto plunger at all, and now my game is not auto plunging 100% anymore lol. There's an explanation for everything but this sure has me scratching my head here.

See if shifting the PF to the left or right fixes the issue. I had a BH that would shift and go out of whack. I put a screw in one of the hook slots so the PF had to sit in the same exact place each time.

#1412 1 year ago
Quoted from JCNP:

I'm getting a pro delivered soon. As soon as I get it I'm going to wipe it down and wax it. I want to put mylar down. Can anybody tell me how much mylar is already installed on the game? Obviously I want to put it in all critical areas. Also wondering if I should be looking to put down the mylar sheet that's designed for the game in the play area. Don't really want to do it if I have to remove a whole bunch of things down to the board. Never installed mylar before so this is a new area for me.

Do you plan on routing the machine where it will get at least 100 plays per day??? Sounds like a pf protector is what you're looking for. You won't need it either though.

1 week later
#1451 12 months ago
Quoted from javagrind888:

So unlike some others on here, my auto launcher was shooting around the loop 100%. I then put Titan bands on all the flippers and now it hits the little flipper and only succeeds about 75% of the time. Are Titan bands thicker than the black bands that came with the game or is it more likely that I moved the positioning on the flipper? I'm thinking about swapping the single flipper back, but it was a bug bear to get on and the color will be off from the others.

That's pretty strange. I'd say you more likely moved the PF. You'd be talking 1mm max difference, and your ball would have been hitting it way more if it was only missing by 1mm. Try cleaning the PF. When mine starts screwing up, a good cleaning fixes my issues.

#1454 12 months ago
Quoted from splitcms:

Anyone ever have the problem where the game automatically chooses a song and the tomb opens at the start of the game?

Mummy newton is gapped too close mostl likely. Vibrations are actuating it twice quick and opening the tomb. This would pick your song and eliminate all skill shots. Newton may be sticking as well. Check the mech.

#1489 11 months ago

I would recommend getting the screwing started now. You’re going to have to learn it anyway.

#1492 11 months ago
Quoted from Billy16:

I speak from experience. Mine came with the auto working 100% and the manual hitting the post. Got the manual to 100%, auto went right in the dumper. Took me forever to get the auto back--shoulda left things alone...

I had to adjust three times to get it right. Wasn't that long, considering how long adjustments can take on various machines. Now I'm confident that I can adjust it in about 5 mins. Gotta go through the pain, so may as well get it over with.

#1503 11 months ago
Quoted from patrickvc:

I’m an ac guy and I know that stuff well

It's not on the hinges. Put a couple drops on a q-tip and lube the lower edge of the ramp. The ramp is like an L-bracket, and the bottom part of the L rubs against the ball guide behind/under the ramp. The edge is sharp and sticks long enough that it misses the ramp release. I oiled mine and the ball guide below once and that's it. I'm assuming the sharp edge has dulled enough that the problem is gone for good.

#1506 11 months ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

What's everybody doing as far as their pitch on the game?
I bought one a few months ago and the legs were set to about a 7.3 pitch. The game was hard as hell, but it seemed pretty well dialed in. It's a bit *too* hard for me, so I just pulled it back down to 6.5, and now everything is all crazy! Shots are not returning to the flippers properly, I'm getting tons of drains. Some of it is just me getting used to the new pitch and speed, but it seems excessively floaty. Just curious what's a good setting. thanks!

My measurement is the same as all my pins: steep as hell.

2 weeks later
#1615 11 months ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Just did that as well, however I'm concerned about it "drifting" out of alignment (which will now be trivial to detect with marks). Hard to freakin believe that the worlds most prolific pinball manufacturer hasn't figured out how to engineer a more reliable PF resting mechanism. The "play" is pretty dramatic and obviously effects this IMDN in a pretty big way. Whatever...
snaroff

Had this issue with my BBH. I put a screw in one of the slots to keep the pf in place. The hook seated snug every time. No threading needed and completely reversible. Don't remember the screw size though.

#1631 11 months ago

Mines at 95%. I just adjusted with the screw. I don't see the screw holding forever though. Wedge would help with that.

3 weeks later
#1717 10 months ago

Anyone else that puts the more powerful coil in, let us know if it works.

2 weeks later
#1818 9 months ago

I'm too lazy to order the coil. I think I'll just unwind three layers of wiring on the coil and see how she goes. If I screw it up, I'll be motivated to order a new coil.

#1833 9 months ago

Finally had an issue with the sarcophagus lock switch. Was going to replace it with a roller until I realized that the switch is simply bent incorrectly for proper functionality. I just pulled the actuator off, clipped it a little shorter to avoid the tip hitting the end of the ball guide slot, and bent it upward so that the ball comes into contact with it earlier. The original shape of the actuator was bent upward too late and resulted in the ball not depressing it far enough. My alteration will make this bombproof until the cheap Stern switch actually fails.

While I had the glass off and balls out, I decided to tackle the autolauncher. Mine has always worked well after my initial adjustment. I'm at about 90%. I took some layers off the coil, which seems to added a few precent to my consistency.

Switch:
Unknown (resized).jpeg

Coil:
Unknown-1 (resized).jpeg

#1836 9 months ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Why wouldn't you just buy another coil? Pathetic looking coil to re-install on your 7k toy...

I put the paper back on perfectly for people that might care in the future. It actually looks better than it did with the uneven wind that it had, not that I care. Why would I unwind in the first place? Because it works and I don't need to bother buying another coil. Less waste and it took me 10 mins total. Yay me!

#1842 9 months ago
Quoted from Who-Dey:

Dont get too cocky on that switch in the sarcophagus lock because its very finicky and might not turn out as good you think after you play a few games.....ask me how i know. I hope that it is fixed though for you because pulling that sarcophagus lock and soldering a new switch in is no fun at all. Good luck.

I've fixed and replaced many switches in my time. The original switch was bent in a way that required too much pressure from the ball. After my fix it takes feather light pressure to trigger it, just like the upper switch. I'm extremely confident. I'll let you know if and when it fails though!

4 months later
#1990 5 months ago

I would have liked to see a horizontal adjustment bolt system so one could adjust on the fly. Thinking of rigging one up when I get the time. I mean if I get the time.

#1997 5 months ago
Quoted from marknkidz:

Hey guys... first time posting... first time pinball owner (premium), looked over whole thread and couldnt find an answer, so any help will be greatly appreciated. The metal ramp that goes up and down (dont know official name) seems to be misaligned, that is, its too far to right (when looking at it from flippers) and when ramp is down it is resting on or very close to the washer under the black rubber bumper. And when up almost or is riding on black rubber post... im posting pic.. hopefully it will go thru.. any idea how to re-align? i did take all 3 machine screws off, tried to re-align when tightening, but it fell right back to same position. Thanx in advance any detail fix would be appreciated, im not up on all terminology...green pea status!![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

If you find that you can't adjust under the playfield, send pics to Stern. That ramp should have never passed QC.

1 week later
#2001 5 months ago
Quoted from Milltown:

Im having this issue ..
Same exact deal ... Mine was perfect and after a few days my auto launch and my manual are either hitting the upper left flipper or the post .. Sometimes perfect sometimes not.. Sometimes it makes it around the orbit sometimes it flys around ... I've only had mine for 10 days from nib... Very frustrating on a brand new game ...

Try cleaning the PF. I have to keep mine squeaky clean or Satan starts f-ing with the trajectory.

#2019 5 months ago
Quoted from Graysonsdad:

I really hope the next update fixes revive. Its sucks how often I will drain down an outlane while in MB and lose my revive even though ball save is still going

And that right drain after successful skill shot doesn't cancel ball save. It's such a contradiction: the shot has the perfect rebound for a right outlane drain, at least on my machine. I'd say mine drains 50% of the time immediately after I make the skill shot. What's the point of the extra time for ball save if it just drains and cancels it?

#2032 4 months ago

I farted about 3/4 foot from my ball guide and quickly spit on the adjustment screw. Then I tightened the screw half a turn. Now my ball guide hits the upper flipper every time. What did I do wrong?

2 weeks later
#2046 4 months ago
Quoted from Supersquid:

I have the same issue with my pro. I put a tiny piece of electrical tape on the bulb to make it sit tight in the holder. That seems to work for quite awhile, but every now and then it starts to flicker again and I have to take the bulb out and reset it in and it's fine again. Must be something with the vibration of the flippers. If there is a more permanent fix, I would sure like to hear it.

Looks like the sides of the socket might not be grounding the bulb. If tape is working, just use pliers to gently squeeze the socket so that the bulb will fit tight.

I'm not sure on newer sterns, but on older machines this also happens when the spring inside the socket becomes corroded or compressed. Seeing that it's a new socket, the spring probably didn't have the right specs out of the Chinese factory. What I would do in this case is remove the socket (no need to disconnect wiring) and use needle nose pliers to pull the spring in order to add more compression. Be careful not to pull it too hard or you'll pop it out of the socket.

#2053 4 months ago
Quoted from Kmoirkne:

Does anyone’s upper right flipper sound odd? It just started happening to me today. The flipper works fine but it has this odd bass sound that it is hitting something or dragging something yet I see nothing. Unless this it was like this from day one?

Commonly reported. Mine is the same. Pretty sure it's just that it's so close to the cab that the cab functions as a boom box. You can dampen it, but it's nothing out of the ordinary, unless someone else is reporting differently.

Edit: oops. Didn't read the replies

2 months later
#2166 40 days ago

My solution for shooter:

1. Used a pen to mark where my pf brackets latch to the PF. It's is very important that your pf sits in the same position each time you close it.

2. Cleaned and waxed the pf.

3. Replaced the post rubber at the end of the ball guide with a thicker one.

4. Put gorilla tape around the rubber post to make it bigger.

5. Cut a piece of old flipper rubber and wedged it between the ball guide and the oversized post rubber. I adjused the amount of tape to dial it in so the ball makes the loop dead center.

I've essentially eliminated the adjustment screw as it is ineffective, piss-poor design.

I am at about 98%, assuming I clean the pf every 100 games, give or take.

It's unnoticeable on the game. Only potential issue is the pressure on the post, hence the rubber.
IMG_20191026_121732 (resized).jpg

4 weeks later
#2181 11 days ago
Quoted from JoeinNJ:

That makes sense, I have two new switches that I’ll install hopefully tomorrow night just in case one or both are flaking out in game play. I’ll report back after I put some games on it.
Thanks for the advise, the game is still the number one played when company stops by and I don’t see that changing anytime soon.

The switch near the Newton likes to bind. I pulled off the leaf of the switch and trimmed and adjusted it. See my previous post a while back. Way easier fix.

Edit: you're already done. Oops!

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