(Topic ID: 217498)

Iron Maiden issues

By rvdv

5 years ago


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  • 2,495 posts
  • 364 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 months ago by Skinner
  • Topic is favorited by 157 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

11 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #96 sarcophagus switch fix. Posted by DG_Amuse (5 years ago)

Post #434 Black t-moulding pictured to replace stock banana yellow. Posted by Strummy (5 years ago)

Post #597 Stern fix for Newton Ball issues on LE Posted by Fytr (5 years ago)

Post #887 Fix for fast balls not registering on upper loop Posted by PinNin (5 years ago)

Post #1039 Picture of factory fix for bad mummy newton ball on Prem/LE Posted by RA77 (5 years ago)

Post #1343 Fix for fast balls leaving wireforms Posted by Kevlar (5 years ago)

Post #1452 Shim method to get auto launch to work nearly 100% Posted by hank35 (5 years ago)

Post #1713 TECH: PLAYFIELD. Fix auto launch consistency with stronger coil Posted by NeilMcRae (5 years ago)


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#487 5 years ago
Quoted from mrgregb123:

Clarvoyant/Mummy newton balls register on flipper press/pop bumper hits.
FIX: This is just an awful, awful design. A 2" hex bolt is screwed into a pinball, that connects to a pop bumper skirt. The hex bolt is likely not tight on your machine, either due to poor assembly or because Stern actually thought it could be used as an "adjustment screw". Except that every hit to the newton ball loosens the hex bolt, which forces the switch closed, and the ball stops registering. The -only- permanent solution is to fully tighten the bolt, Loctite it so it never unscrews, and then carefully adjust the switch gap to about half a millimeter. Seriously though Stern, WTF with this design.

This is the first thing I did. Secure the hex post from moving then adjust the switch gap. It was obvious that any movement in the post defeats whatever switch gap you have dialed in. This is a very weak design. Loctite, or a thin nut adjacent to the ball tightened against the hex post should have been factory installed. ( I would have done the latter but that meant moving the switch stack)

Quoted from mrgregb123:

- Auto plunger shoots ball at upper flipper.
FIX: I tried all sorts of leveling, had the back legs as high as they go, etc. Nothing worked. I unscrewed the screw holding the shooter lane ball guide in place (under the plastic) got plyers and bent the curve of the shooter lane further left (use a cloth with the plyers so you don't scratch the ball guide), and then re-screwed it. You could try simply unscrewing, forcing it left and then re-screwing, but I doubt this will hold up over time.

I have a better than 90% success rate when the game auto loads balls for Trooper multiball. I expect this won't last (I've seen pics of bent auto launch mechs on another thread)

#523 5 years ago
Quoted from Tyamry:

Can’t play without a ball trough.

This is just unbelievable. Sorry to hear.

9 months later
#1909 5 years ago
Quoted from pindude80:

I finally had a chance last night to take a look at the captive ball. Sure enough the actuator rod had come un-screwed ever so slightly causing the sensitive switch activation. I noticed mine has the older rods that are just beveled at the bottom and not the more pointed ones. Are the ones with the point that much better? Should I contact Stern to see if they will send them to me or should I just go ahead and put some blue loctite on my current ones and roll with it?

The new pointy tip actuator shafts that Stern sent me are still in the bag. I have the original ones gapped correctly and they perform just fine. I've not had any reason to replace them. Blue loctite will address the unscrewing issue. Spend time on accurately gapping the switches and you'll be ok.

#1912 5 years ago

I've not added loctite, yet. The mummy spoon switch shaft never loosened and has been working flawlessly. I only tightened it by hand (firmly) when I first gapped the switch 10 months ago.

The jackpot/orb switch shaft does loosen up on occasion. When this happens you'll notice the song is pre-selected as soon as ball1 is fed to the shooter lane - or the pop bumpers activate it mid game. To resolve this I reach into the cabinet through the coin door and tighten it by hand. It worked the first time and I've done it a few times since. This lasts about 50-100 games - ymmv, but I wouldn't take this approach outside of a home environment.

I only have red loctite so I'll admit to being lazy in this regard. When I remember to buy some blue loctite I will apply it to the 3 or 4 turns of thread that are exposed when you loosen (but not remove) the shaft. It would be great to incorporate a set screw into this design instead.

Quoted from Billy16:

I installed the pointed actuators and think they do work better than the round ones. Not a great deal better, but better.

I'd bet this to be true. In my case I adhered to "if it ain't broke..." way of thinking. If both switches (Prem/LE) were acting up, I probably would have upgraded to the pointy ones at that time.

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