(Topic ID: 217498)

Iron Maiden issues

By rvdv

1 year ago

Topic Stats

  • 2,186 posts
  • 299 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by NeilMcRae
  • Topic is favorited by 130 Pinsiders


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Topic index (key posts)

9 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #96 sarcophagus switch fix. Posted by DG_Amuse (1 year ago)

Post #434 Black t-moulding pictured to replace stock banana yellow. Posted by Strummy (1 year ago)

Post #597 Stern fix for Newton Ball issues on LE Posted by Fytr (1 year ago)

Post #887 Fix for fast balls not registering on upper loop Posted by PinNin (1 year ago)

Post #1039 Picture of factory fix for bad mummy newton ball on Prem/LE Posted by RA77 (1 year ago)

Post #1343 Fix for fast balls leaving wireforms Posted by Kevlar (1 year ago)

Post #1452 Shim method to get auto launch to work nearly 100% Posted by hank35 (1 year ago)

Post #1713 How to fix auto launch forever. Posted by NeilMcRae (10 months ago)

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#880 1 year ago

Related to: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/iron-maiden-issues/page/6#post-4432766

Maybe a little late, but if the counting still does not work like you want you can try the IMD PU Upgrade Kit.


Inside are two parts to make the receiver work much better. The receiver should be on the left side, if not swap it. The third part is prevent ball stuck on a plastic below the right ramp. The later versions of the Pro and Premium have a post on the plastic.

#887 1 year ago
Quoted from hocuslocus:

I didn't really look at centering it, it looked somewhat center but I wasn't really paying attention to that aspect.
I figured it was either the way it was getting pushed out or the speed. Didn't make sense that one way worked almost all the time, and not the other.
Appreciate the suggestion, I'll take another look at that next time I'm there.

I hot glued some really tiny spacers on the 4 loop opto's, seemed to fix the issue for me, pain in the ass though.
It now counts all loops regardless of speed.

Gluing tiny spacer leads to the B/W style opto. But if you take several IMD into account you will see that the optos are screwed with tolerances in all machines. So it could happen that the spacer solution does not work for everybody without adjusting the optos. I think there are many pinheads that a not so good in fixing problems and lucky to solve it by only working on a few screws.
The kit is a simple solution, easy to install and should work on nearly all machines without doing complicated work. I found for US people you can also get it a from Pinballlife (https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=5264).

Only an easy suggestion

1 week later
#1002 1 year ago
Quoted from 85vett:

Yes, but you aren't complaining about a coil rapid fire condition. Once that happens you've gone to far. Any pinhead that does any work on their machines that has a basic understanding of how a pinball machine works knows that.

I give up. For anyone that wants to fix your machine PROPERLY this is the WRONG way to do it. Vibrations causing a fire of a coil is damn near the definition of a mechanical problem in a pinball machine. Their is a reason why experienced techs will put a game in switch test mode and lightly tap on the PF when they get a complaint about a flaky switch.

+1 for tech help from 85vett

Maybe some add that I have overseen or not taken into account on the sling issue. For people that want to go a little deeper into the theory. If you hit with your hand on the playfield you want to have something like a dirac pulse (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dirac_delta_function).

Like 85vett told you, first you have to understand the mechanic, then you fix or adjust it. Software adjustments should stay at the point where the producer set it. For a properly working and adjusted mechanic there is no need to adjust it after a software update.

I'm also working every day with pinball machines a long time and set up a lot of tournaments up to high level. Hopefully it help beginners or non experienced people to keep the fingers of the software adjustments.

#1004 1 year ago
Quoted from scarybeard:

my 'ball lock' loop post has a rubber sleeve on it that slowly rides up over time (predictably)... which gets the ball stuck sometimes until the search happens. I'm assuming replacing the rubber with a 'superbands' style sleeve will solve the problem because they fit tighter than normal rubbers. Anyone else done this and can confirm if its a good fix?

Please check first if it is installed in the right way. The post rubber is conically and the big part should be up. I saw on one IMD I worked on (something out of 30+ new) that it was installed vice versa by Stern and get stuck at the coil sleeve. Maybe you also have one. This can also lead to that it is pushed up.

At the moment Super-Band sleeve 1 1/16" are not available in this conical form. They are usable but insure that the mechanic is working fine. If you use it, it could work because it's more gluing but on the other way it also could get stuck at the coil sleeve.

The Stern part number of the rubber is 545-5308-00. As far as I know it is not listed in the Stern manual until now. If you search for the number you will find following products:
https://pu-parts.com/1-1-16-inch-slightly-tapered-silicone-post (this is silicone)

Hope it helps you.

Update 21.08.2108:
On later models the post rubber ist glued. I looks that it is something like instant adhesive.

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