Is that the coin door they are shipping games with now? Gonna be a little irritated If I got to spend another 200 to get one with a dollar bill slot.

edit:
ok never mind, didn't realize he was from a different country.

Got the game!
taking everything off the playfield and cleaning it... installing plastic protectors, shooter lane cliff etc.
looks like it came with the newer newton ball stuff and haven't had any issues with the sarcophagus lock

only issue thus far is a couple paint smears, you know how you notice the smallest defect and your eyes keep going back to it over and over .

ORB paint smear (resized).jpeg

Revive paint smear (resized).jpeg

huh, didn't really notice they weren't the nub ones....
just recently got a batman that looks the same, without nubs.

might be cheaper not to have to drill the holes?
maybe they had issues with the nubs ones, so they transitioned to the adhesive ones?

Had a few ball hang up's the first one when fly's up the ramp and lands on the left side. Happened to me like 4 times in 20 or so games. It really gets wedged in there good, no amount of shaking or tilting would be any use.. Trying to find an elegant solution... any ideas?

The second one only happened once and shouldn't be a problem putting one of those rubber stopper things up there to keep it out of that groove.

20180715_134141 (resized).jpg20180715_134236 (resized).jpg

I also noticed the mummy newton ball thing stopped working within the first 10 or so games. I tried readjusting the gap over and over... no matter what I couldn't get it right. I finally swapped out the switch with a B/W N.O. EOS's (think the reason they didn't use regular switches is if you don't gap it right, it double hits a lot easier). I also added the other part of the switch to the EOS - the one that helps keep the smaller contact in place.
Was able to gap it pretty easily, it works perfect now without double hits.

I had to do the same thing to my wolverine figure in X-Men after it got off kilter. That's been working great as well ever since.

Now I'm having some issues with the orb newton ball, my fault for messing with it because it was working perfectly. These newton ball things are all using the newer pointy post btw.

yeah, I was thinking something along those lines. surprised this wasn't an issue at the factory. Luckily I had a few different sizes.
I'll definitely look at putting some type of clear plastic there, not my forte but think it could look nice.

finished installing a generic spike 2 cliffy and mylar, that was somewhat of a pain.
had to drill it out, due to the extra hole for the ball guide. Then shave it down big time at the trough area, otherwise it would jet to far out in the shooter lane.
(The balls were getting caught coming back down).
now launch/ auto launch is messed up... guess I moved the ball guide to far up...having NGG flashbacks .
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pretty sure it was this one.
https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=261

regardless it doesn't really matter as long as the switch is long enough and the contacts are gold plated (something with low resistance), leafs long enough and contacts are bigger it doesn't really matter. they can't be tungsten contact switches as the resistance is to high.

those line / \ switches seem to work fine on the pops, but I was having a lot of trouble with them on the newton balls.

the picture is a little out of focus, but you need to adjust it to where there is almost no gap. beware with making the gap to small cause other stuff will set it off. Finally wound up doing the same thing to my orb, works great now. you also need to put a little pressure on the hex pointy spacer with the first contact.
Had a lot of issues with my orb ball getting stuck in a slanted position, think it's a spring problem though (needed a little more force to push it up).

as you can see I used all the parts from the other switch, I only replaced the contact parts. I'm sure there is a premade W/B pop switch you can try, but since I already had the EOS switches on hand, I choose the former. the nice thing about the bigger contacts is it's easier to set the sensitivity.
With the \ / contact switch it makes it hit and miss, unless the ball is hit with enough force or you got phantom hits.
https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3290
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With mine I had to mess with the ball guide rail. Had to push that son of bitch all the way forward while tightening the screw (might be different depending on placement of screw from the factory). think the only other thing I'd look at is power... pretty sure I had to turn it up a few notches.
obviously, if your game isn't level, it won't matter. Phone apps are meh, the repeatability isn't there and I've found the level can be different depending on what phone or app you use.

I try to get the table below .05 - side to side at a couple points. That's a pretty high standard, but my logic is people will move these machines and eventually it'll throw off the level even more, better to start at a low side to side incline.... some games it's more important and noticeable then others.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002LL0BIC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage
Leveling a machine is super basic and probably one of the most important things, but a lot of people seem to miss the mark on it for some reason.

works almost 100% of the time now, with a few not making it because the autolaunch fires before the ball is in place.. in multiball, but that's even a rare occurrence.

Yeah I was thinking the exact same thing.
I think the spring coil gets caught somehow, when the ball is hit hard enough. I'm not sure how to take the captive ball, without marring the ball itself.

I was able to move the spring coil around the other side, now it still can get stuck but, only from the side position. I'm fine with that since it's near impossible to hit it at that angle with enough force. It might eventually get turned around though.
Don't think I've ever spent so much time messing with one mech.
also forcing it up via the leaf switch seems to help a little.

Only then you get to battle the leaf switch sensitivity, Took me FOREVER to find where the position was. Either it was to loose, or a little to tight and the pop bumpers set it off periodically (which is frustrating when your trying to build power jackpots). They really need to re-think that captive ball design.

I thought I had that damn thing fixed, then the auto plunge stopped working again.
The manual plunge still works 100% of the time, so you might be one to something with the prongs.

Was thinking of upgrading the coil to have a little leeway, since it's currently maxed out via factory defaults.

Not sure if this was already posted, but I think part of the problem is even if you get the ball guide set 100% correctly eventually the ball guide will move from the ball slamming against it enough times. It doesn't take much to through it off.
on mine there was a #8 screw holding down the ball guide and you had to push the shit out of the ball guide all the way forward and then tighten it.

I added some wood (toothpicks ) & wood glue to the hole so I could put a # 6 screw in it's place. This would allow a small amount of wiggle room, so if the ball guide wouldn't have so much pressure on it. Think the only other option would be to patch the current screw hole and move it down a few mm. (closer to the middle of the correct ball guide mounting point.)

Just keep trying, eventually the magic combination will be found

your probably right, but I'm gonna try one more thing before giving up!!

I did a test a four days ago with the manual plunge and out of 50 times it made it around 49. Came back in today and it was 48 out of 50, which tells me my guide rail is no longer moving ( I added a lock washer as well). It didn't take much movement to throw the ball off.

Checked to make sure the autoplunger tabs were hitting the ball at the same rate like Who-Dey mentioned.

The first few weeks the auto was working at about the same rate, then all the sudden it went down to 5 to 7 out of ten.
I went ahead and ordered a stronger coil, guess I'll see if that helps at all. It did great the first set of ten, then the second/third set it started messing up. Heat resistance? maybe also setting the incline at 6.5 might help? mine is currently set btwn 6.8 and 7.0

I've never found a way to get the whole playfield even side to side. Usually you can get one point on the playfield at set at (0.00), but on the high side it might read (0.15 > ) . I've always favored trying to zero out the area right above the flippers in a zone without inserts. The closer you get it the less chance it'll throw the game off if someone slides the cab... unless your floor is super un-even. I've found phones aren't the best thing to use, at least for me. The level can vary from phone to phone and app to app, there is also no repeatability most of the time. People can be pretty rough with my games though.

I didn't really look at centering it, it looked somewhat center but I wasn't really paying attention to that aspect.
I figured it was either the way it was getting pushed out or the speed. Didn't make sense that one way worked almost all the time, and not the other.

Appreciate the suggestion, I'll take another look at that next time I'm there.

I hot glued some really tiny spacers on the 4 loop opto's, seemed to fix the issue for me, pain in the ass though.
It now counts all loops regardless of speed.

yeah I hear ya, pretty sure I had to use slightly longer screws. Think they were 4-40's, I can't imagine most people would have those on stand-by. The spacers themselves weren't hard to put in, it was trying to find the right height for each set of optos. Honestly wish that upgrade kit was available when I first got the machine . I've asked about ordering from that site before, they said they don't deliver to the U.S. it's a shame they have some pretty neat products.

Yeah, usually you can get those things lined up most of the time to where it doesn't affect the ball that much. I'm finding it a little more difficult with the metal rail cliffies since they tend to slide out sometimes if you don't push them far enough to the right side before tightening.
I usually re-do the 3M contact adhesive to cover the whole bottom side and quick grip the piss out of it in two places before putting the screws in. Seems to work most of the time, took a lot of trial and error to get right.

same thing was happening to mine, I thought it might of been the spring getting caught on a edge or something.
the mummy one centers every time, but the orb one...
This thing took me forever to get adjusted correctly, the pops set it off pre-maturely or it didn't get set off at all.
Then it kept getting stuck in the slanted position.
that thing drove me crazy

I was able to rotate the bushing thing you shaved down, so it was only getting caught from hard side hits (which rarely happen).
Tried to take it apart, wasn't real sure how to go about it since there was nothing to grip onto except the newton ball itself... didn't want to mar it up.

maybe I'll give it shot since I know exactly what to do now... when I have time. Really not looking forward to gapping that switch again. Not sure why I had such an issue gapping it, seems like everyone else did theirs pretty easily... or maybe their pop's are setting it off to, but they aren't noticing? It was maybe once out of 30 pop hits, it magically set the power jackpot off and made the orb sound.

finally had a chance to mess with the prongs a little, didn't quiet get it working yet... but I noticed a huge difference by moving them ever so slightly (more then anything else I've done).
Gonna try again tomorrow, hoping this issue will be resolved finally.

I did try installing the new lower resistance coil, as you would of guessed it didn't make much of a difference. the only good thing is now I can underpower it by 15-20 and still get the same results as the default 255 with the factory coil. If it smacks into the flipper, I don't think it matters at what speed.

one other issue I've noticed with newer sterns in general is the inlane/outlane GI lighting usually starts to flicker. Seems to be more prevalent with newer sterns in areas where there is a lot of vibration. I used to think it was the LED itself, now I know it's the contact btwn the bulb and socket.

all four of my iron maiden inlane GI's were doing this, I replaced the bulbs like 3 times before it dawned on me that the LED wasn't the issue... had the same issue on guardians and batman always in the same area.
besides adding solder to the LED casing or squeezing the socket are there any other fixes. maybe filing down the coating a little on the socket itself?

yeah there a pain to get working right even with the pointy hex spacer thing... at least for me it was.... mainly the newton orb ball because the pops kept setting the power jackpot off prematurely every now and again.
pretty sure if my newton ball didn't get stuck in the tilted position, it would of made it much easier. There was another post a few pages back that went into more detail on how to fix that as well.

be patient, get it tweaked, its worth it.

yeah, that, the newton balls (premium/LE) & the mini loop optos not registering 100%, were the biggest issues this game had - NIB.
the ball guide kept moving as well, I held it down with a lock washer and the regular sheet metal screw they used. Forget what coil I used, but that coupled with a few other things seemed to solve the issue for the most part. Awesome what they were trying to do, but frustrating to get it to work.

I had a similar issue on my paragon to where the socket wasn't making great contact with the LEDs in the pops. I added solder in key places and crimped the socket with needle nose pliers so the bulb didn't move from the vibrations and it worked like a charm, so I kept doing that for older solid states.

I've tried diff stuff with these sterns, like crimping the sockets and replacing the bulb. nothing works for to long.
Figured its the same thing though, vibrations make it difficult.