Allentown, PA
There crap switch’s that we’re most likely over tight.
Had the same issues with my GB Prem ramp ones till o replaced
(Topic ID: 217498)
Linked Games
Iron Maiden: Legacy of the Beast (LE)
Stern, 2018-
Iron Maiden: Legacy of the Beast (Premium)
Stern, 2018
-
Iron Maiden: Legacy of the Beast (Pro)
Stern, 2018
-
Star Trek: The Next Generation
Williams, 1993
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Quoted from Strummy:What size t molding are you guys ordering?
i did 3/4 but on this game it seems closer 13/16. Either way you will never notice that 1/32 on each side difference.
Quoted from NimblePin:13/16 ShOuLd be the correct molding for these newer mostly metal Stern BBs.
3/4 was the right choice for the older “full wood” generation Stern heads.Oh, I wood...I most certainly wood.
Dark blue should compliment the dark blue stripes on the side of the head to a “T”...molding that is!
Why they decided to go full on French’s mustard yellow instead of this blue (or black even) for the premium, I have no f*<king idea.
Oooooooooh I think you may be mistaken on that. The 3/4 would fit correctly. The factory 13/16 is a 32 too big and has overlap. It may be factory with 13/16 but it has a very sloppy look to it IMO you can feel and see from a distance the excess overhang 3/4 on ST with no overhang in pic
Here’s a pic , see for yourself
D0096CAB-F89A-4680-9279-5CC142F347DF (resized).jpeg
5EAE2B73-F503-4BA6-AA5B-0AF799DE14C5 (resized).jpegQuoted from RVH:I just put clear lexan washers under the slingshot plastics and noticed the left wire form ramp needs to pe pushed down about 1 3/8 inch to install it. Seams a bit weird, ramps usually seam to fit better.
Yep ..... mine is the same. Your fine
Quoted from NimblePin:The proof is in the pudding.
Here’s the 3/4... (note the exposed wood AND black touch ups you’d need to do. )And here’s the correct 13/16... ( no wood exposed and no overhang.)
Here is the link to order:
https://www.t-molding.com/13-16in-blue-t-molding.html
To be fair to Hoby1,
Stern seems to use a different brand molding than the T-Molding.com variety.
The stock yellow stuff also had more of a matte finish and has slightly different pliability. (Seemed thinner.)
Stern’s 13/16 did indeed hang a bit more over the edge compared to this blue so I could see why most people would think to go with the 3/4 instead.
Hope these pics help empower folks to try different t-moldings on their newer Stern heads to colors that might suit what they’d want to do with possible armor powder coating down the road.
Have fun guys!
Aaaaaaaah FUDGE !!! I see you are correct. I just emailed them so see if I can change before my order ships . 
Quoted from trilamb:Auto-plunge working most of the time now, but of course as I expected, the manual plunger is off. A full manual plunge will always hit the post.
Couldn't tell you if this Iron Maiden Pinball game is any good, but this Finicky Shooter Lane game succccks
(I kid I kid, but yeah...)
Look at it closely. I had to tweak mine down the opposite way than you think..... on mine the ball would very slightly hit the R flipper and deflect down to hit the post. Now its about 90% on both plunges.
2 weeks later
Quoted from Alamo_Pin:Russell from Colorado Springs advises changing the top switch to a rollerball switch. I think I’m going to have to try this.
https://images.pinside.com/8/82/882f9578dd0d4aa4c13ac6877f965a1a218e83d9/resized/large/882f9578dd0d4aa4c13ac6877f965a1a218e83d9.jpeg
What does that have to do with the Newton ball?
I used a small amount of teflon grease on the ball end then lock tighted the hex nut once I had it adjusted to where it was good . no different than a pop bumper switch and look how those get used.
1 week later
Quoted from Huggers:Got my game today. The plunger is awful. Looks well out of line to me. Any ideas? Vid below
Looks like the manual plunger is so off that maybe the auto is striking the tip when it launchs.
1 week later
Quoted from flashburn:Absolutely stupid. On my Star Wars they have nubs on them that slot into the holes. Works much better than some shitty adhesive. I really wonder why they make such stupid decisions like this. Maybe it saves them 0.001 cents per game sold or something.
These also have nubs.
Backbox rubber pad installation
• Clean the surface of the backbox where the rubber pads are to be installed.
• Apply a few drops of Super or Krazy glue to the back of the rubber pad as indicated.
• Line up the (3) pegs on the backside of the rubber pad with the (3) holes on the backbox.
• Apply pressure to the rubber pad until the glue cures.
Attachment that was sent along with the email
Quoted from PinMonk:Serviceability is not the first design decision at Stern.
Guess you folks havn't done any work on your new cars lately.
Quoted from Who-Dey:Ok im new to the game and i have a Premium on the way. Is this switch on the sarcophagus lock bad on ALL of these games and will need to either be replaced or have a roller ball switch put on it, or do some of them work good and some dont?
No issues at all with mine
Quoted from Who-Dey:Thats what i like to hear. If mine comes all messed up i may have to fly iceman in from Texas to repair my sarcophagus!
You will be fine man...... If not the wifey and I may take a trip out to Put in Bay in a few weeks. 
1 month later
Quoted from tryton1000:mine is doing the same thing! code issue for sure..
Maybe its just switch sensitivity combined with a harder coil pulse that has changed . Readjust the switch to a slightly wider gap and try. Let us know.
Quoted from Who-Dey:I just went and played about 4 games and mine is playing normal like it should. I have a Premium also if that matters. I reslly dont see how that could be code related though because when the two contacts are pressed together that is what tells the coil to fire and not the computer right? That coil cannot fire unless the contacts create a closed circuit right? The only way the contacts can come together is if the ball hits them. Am i missing something here?
I think what is happening the switch pulse is more sensitive now. The sling rubber is probably deflecting back and causing the switch to register and refute the coil
I wish someone would test and let us know. Don’t want to update a buggy code.
Quoted from BananaJet:Hello.
Just updated our Premium to 1.04, and we are having the same crazy issue with the left sling rapid fire. I'll send an email to Stern.
Dude...... adjust your frgn sling switch's already
Quoted from 85vett:Your words, not mine. don't know about you but when I think back and forth I think ping pong or tennis. You said it first, just in a different way.
And no, it will not cause greater wear on anything other than maybe the coil stop. The sleeves, bushings, etc will still experience the same amount of frictional material but all of those parts are wear items as well anyways. But, by turning down your slings so that they don't rapid fire (instead of fixing correctly) you now create more back and forth between the slings (again, your words this time) which then causing those slings to fire more often which then creates additional wear because now a coil that would have fired 10,000 times has now fired at least 15,000 times. But you knew that right?
My only argument here is that you don't fix a mechanical problem by reducing power to a coil. You fix the mechanical problem and then adjust the power to suit your desires and needs. Those SHOULD be two separate functions.
I always use tight tolerances on my slings and Superbands. They are a lot firmer than regular rubber
Quoted from 85vett:Yes, but you aren't complaining about a coil rapid fire condition. Once that happens you've gone to far. Any pinhead that does any work on their machines that has a basic understanding of how a pinball machine works knows that.
[quoted image]
I give up. For anyone that wants to fix your machine PROPERLY this is the WRONG way to do it. Vibrations causing a fire of a coil is damn near the definition of a mechanical problem in a pinball machine. Their is a reason why experienced techs will put a game in switch test mode and lightly tap on the PF when they get a complaint about a flaky switch.
Uuuuuuuum. I kinda do this sort of work for a living.
That and i've told the dude adjust the switch already.
Quoted from 85vett:Are you saying the proper fix for a rapid fire coil is to decrease coil strength?
In my experience in doing some top end restorations and setting up games/being the tech for some very high profile tournaments. This is not how I would go about fixing this issue, nor would any tech I have ever worked with. If we adjust the slings to the point it rapid fires, we increase the gap slightly to maintain a tight sling but not rapid fire.
See post 953. If the guy is not comfortable doing this there is nothing wrong with lowering the coil power.
I just don't think your seeing the whole picture.
Quoted from 85vett:Hmmm... Guess I'm not an idiot after all....
One huge improvement I did do with my game was to adjust the flipper switch's so the both activate at the exact same time ( this was not easy ).
Huge difference in me being able to consistently hit the orbits. Those milliseconds between lower in upper really threw me off .
Quoted from Marvin:they aren't supposed to fire at the same time. they are designed to be staged. you can flip the lowers w/o firing the uppers on purpose.
Thats great.... You make your game play the way YOU want and Ill keep mine the way I have it.
Quoted from PinMonk:Come on. You're not this dumb. Software is causing a harder coil pull than 1.02, which is causing enough additional vibration to trigger the slings that worked fine in 1.02.
Didn’t you know that when you change the version it also changes the hardware..... come on man.
Quoted from bigdaddy07:Mine has it as well, but honestly, if people hadn't made such a deal of it here, I would have given it very little thought. Yah with prices where they are today, you would think that quality would be tip top, but it is what it is if you're buying NIB games.
Its amazing how they differ..... I got one of the first Prem's to come out and the PF is like glass.
My Met had graining, but its never been an issue. I don't think it devalues the game one bit but obviously I would rather not have the graining.
Quoted from PinNin:+1 for tech help from 85vett
Maybe some add that I have overseen or not taken into account on the sling issue. For people that want to go a little deeper into the theory. If you hit with your hand on the playfield you want to have something like a dirac pulse (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dirac_delta_function).
Like 85vett told you, first you have to understand the mechanic, then you fix or adjust it. Software adjustments should stay at the point where the producer set it. For a properly working and adjusted mechanic there is no need to adjust it after a software update.
I'm also working every day with pinball machines a long time and set up a lot of tournaments up to high level. Hopefully it help beginners or non experienced people to keep the fingers of the software adjustments.
Not going to beat this to a dead horse as I agree, and stated to adjust the switch blade right off the bat.
That being said........ if you recall the issues with the GB magna slings would get into a rhythm where the ball would just bounce sling to sling and keep going.
There was absolutely no way to fix this with hardware. The software had to be rewritten to adjust power level. There are many instances where software is used to control power to make hardware work , Houdini catapult, IMDN shooter lane, VUK power on AFMr ( this was a real issue on the original for bounce back. ) and flipper strength.
If 1.02 software originally worked and they rewrote the code to 1.04 and a problem came up, who's to say which way it was originally designed.
Each game is an individual and there is no one correct way that will make all problematic situations have the same " correct " fix.
Quoted from chuckwurt:This will never be dethroned. [quoted image]
The dreaded Stern VUK switch. Aaaaaaaah !!!
Think I may had my first issue last night.
My game always sound pretty darn good but last night while playing I hit the left spinner shot by the orb and herd a VERY noticeable change in the sound.
It seems now to not have near as much base and clarity " I think "
I have always run factory setting and speakers and 1.04 is installed. My master volume is set at 21.
Anyone else having an issue as I though I remember seeing something and I know sound quality is only ok on this game.
Quoted from bigdaddy07:Did you verify that the base speaker is still working? Get under the cabinet and listen for it.
It is. And it sound pretty good
2 months later
Quoted from PinMonk:Spike node boards have transistors you can replace. The other stuff? Not so much. But it DOES have transistors.
Yes, but I thought because of not being fused they are taking out additional surface mounted components when they go
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