(Topic ID: 217498)

Iron Maiden issues

By rvdv

1 year ago

Topic Stats

  • 2,189 posts
  • 299 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 hours ago by Tranquilize
  • Topic is favorited by 129 Pinsiders


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Topic index (key posts)

9 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #96 sarcophagus switch fix. Posted by DG_Amuse (1 year ago)

Post #434 Black t-moulding pictured to replace stock banana yellow. Posted by Strummy (1 year ago)

Post #597 Stern fix for Newton Ball issues on LE Posted by Fytr (1 year ago)

Post #887 Fix for fast balls not registering on upper loop Posted by PinNin (1 year ago)

Post #1039 Picture of factory fix for bad mummy newton ball on Prem/LE Posted by RA77 (1 year ago)

Post #1343 Fix for fast balls leaving wireforms Posted by Kevlar (1 year ago)

Post #1452 Shim method to get auto launch to work nearly 100% Posted by hank35 (1 year ago)

Post #1713 How to fix auto launch forever. Posted by NeilMcRae (10 months ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#892 1 year ago
Quoted from crwjumper:

Does anyone know how to remove the lower Newton Ball on a premium/LE? It won't center or re-seat correctly and I'd like to polish and smooth the centering/resting plates. I tried to remove it last night but couldn't figure out how to separate the ball from the plates. I was able to remove the pointy post and the two nuts and two wood screws, but then couldn't figure out how to proceed to separate the ball (above the playfield) from the plates/spring assembly (below the playfield). Has anyone done this?

If you've already removed the pointy post the captive ball should just unscrew from the top. You have to hold the round aluminum spring seat still (on the bottom of the playfield between the spring and the bracket), and if you had any loctite on it from the factory it may be a little difficult.

I had a similar problem so here's a couple of other things to look for.

Push up on the ball assembly from the bottom (before you take it apart), the spring should compress and the aluminum ring should fully seat against the playfield. If it doesn't it's probably because the spring is binding in the hole. I found that my spring was slightly too large in diameter and would not compress up into the hole. My mummy captive ball was fine, the clairvoyant wouldn't compress. So I took them apart and measured, sure enough one was bigger. I had Stern send me a new spring and now it fits fine.

That fixed most of the sticking but it still gets stuck occasionally because there is a slight flat spot on the bottom of the captive ball where the post is pressed into it. This flat spot hangs on the edge of the playfield socket. My mummy ball dosen't have a flat spot, it is perfectly round with a post coming out of it, and it never hangs up. I haven't replaced the ball yet but I'm certain that's the problem.

#930 1 year ago

For what it's worth, here's my experience so far with the auto plunge. My game was I'd say about 80% out of the box. Pretty good, and only really annoying when there was a miss at the beginning of Trooper multi-ball, just cause it's not as cool if all 3 balls don't come down at you at the same time! Mine would make it, or shoot low and hit the post. It would never go high and hit the flipper. By turning the auto plunge down from 255 to 235 my game has gone to 95-98%. I won't say 100% because you're always gonna have an occasional miss, but it gets it almost every time now. I know it seems backwards. If it hits low you'd think it needed more power not less, but that's not the case for mine. My theory is that the ball sits in the middle of the shooter lane and doesn't make contact with the right metal guide. When it's fired it travels straight up the lane until it hits the curve. Because the ball was not in contact with the rail the whole time there's an impact and very slight bounce when it does contact the rail. Think of driving onto a highway on ramp and not turning the wheel until you hit the metal guard rail. This slight bounce varies slightly each time and causes the inconsistency. In my case the bounce sends the ball low into the post. Less power=less bounce. My ball is now more consistent and so makes the shot more consistently. I believe if the ball was just barely touching the rail right from the start, and all the way up and around the curve, it would be much more accurate because there would be NO bounce. I looked at moving the whole rail left to accomplish this but it will require a little more surgery than I'm willing to do at the moment. 95-98% is good enough for me and was super easy by just turning down the power. This may not work the same for you if yours misses high into the flipper. In any case though, I'm willing to bet that minimizing the impact bounce is the key to accuracy.

#935 1 year ago
Quoted from Who-Dey:

Changing the auto plunge power did nothing for my game. The fix was all in the prongs.

Did yours miss high or low before you fixed it with the prongs?

#938 1 year ago

So you had the opposite problem from me. That makes sense. If you were already shooting high less power on the coil would probably not help. I guess the rail angle and therefore the bounce in every machine is just a little different. Totally agree it's way better when it hits that loop!

1 month later
#1149 1 year ago

So the center ramp on my Premium stopped working the other day. It would go up, but never come back down. To make a long story short, the ramp needed lubrication. I cleaned the coil plunger and put a very small amount of Teflon spray lube on the ramp hinges and plunger hinges. The problem is that the magnetic relay that holds back the catch for the ramp pulses only just barely long enough to let the ramp release. ANY delay in the falling of the ramp will result in the relay releasing the catch too soon and the ramp won't fall. Stern should really update this so that the relay and catch stay active longer to give the ramp more time to drop. I can see this being a problem as ramps age, wear, slow down.

#1152 1 year ago
Quoted from Tranquilize:

Common issue. Back of the ramp catches on the loop rail below and behind it momentarily. Use a tiny bit of lube. Problem solved.

Mine was not catching on the loop, it is as I described in my post above. Yes, I'm sure it is, or will be a common issue. That's why I suggested it would be better if Stern increased the duration of the release relay to allow for a slower ramp.

#1153 1 year ago
Quoted from Who-Dey:

Is this below the playfield where you need to put lube or on top?

I removed the mech, cleaned the plunger and lubed the ramp hinges and the plunger link pivot points. Also lubed the back of the nylon plunger link where it presses (and can bind) against the steel when the ramp is in the fully up position.

2 weeks later
#1200 1 year ago
Quoted from x-rug-x:

My game is the Pro version, master sound is at 7 (and was never above factory default). I have to turn it down otherwise the distortion is too annoying (I mention so I don't get heckled for not upping the irons!). The sound out of the cabinet speaker is awful, I noticed it when leveling the feet. The other thing I've noticed is that sometimes during more extreme action the audio coming out of the main speakers is super distorted, sometimes just beeps and other random noises. Even at its best, the audio is never 100% clear, there's always distortion or clipping or something. The best way to describe it is awful. Thinking back to it, I noticed the same thing on a demo unit at a dealer in my area, so this something that's happening to other ones. The only adjustments I have made to the game has been to turn the volume down and set to free play.

Have you updated the code? If not do so, they made a change to the audio I think around 1.03 that really made a difference. Worth a shot.

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