(Topic ID: 217498)

Iron Maiden issues

By rvdv

1 year ago

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Topic index (key posts)

9 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #96 sarcophagus switch fix. Posted by DG_Amuse (1 year ago)

Post #434 Black t-moulding pictured to replace stock banana yellow. Posted by Strummy (1 year ago)

Post #597 Stern fix for Newton Ball issues on LE Posted by Fytr (1 year ago)

Post #887 Fix for fast balls not registering on upper loop Posted by PinNin (1 year ago)

Post #1039 Picture of factory fix for bad mummy newton ball on Prem/LE Posted by RA77 (1 year ago)

Post #1343 Fix for fast balls leaving wireforms Posted by Kevlar (1 year ago)

Post #1452 Shim method to get auto launch to work nearly 100% Posted by hank35 (1 year ago)

Post #1713 How to fix auto launch forever. Posted by NeilMcRae (1 year ago)

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#61 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

Fortunately it isn't posted every single time people ask the same question of why their sound "crackles" (clips) when they have the volume up super-high. I may just make a thread showing how to do the upgrade with connectors, etc so I never have to post it again.

Please do.

You’ve tried using an external amp and it solves the speaker cackling issue for certain?

#70 1 year ago
Quoted from RA77:

Even though the hardware is at such a tight tolerance
Amp low power and speakers very basic.
I believe Audio mixing levels may be incorrect.
I would not be in a hurry to upgrade replace hardware at this time
and expect the problem will be sorted out through code.
Hopefully there is an audio guru at Stern that will deliver incredible sound.

Anyone notice if the crackling happens when callouts occur or just with music playing?

Looking forward to hearing if the external amp helps.

I pick up my LE today!

#73 1 year ago
Quoted from Gryszzz:

Ffs get that syrup outta yer ears man

Ha. I've said numerous times, the music is fine until you go over like, 50. Then it clips.
There is a cannon and certain effects that still remain even with speech attenuation at +60 (off) and THAT, plus the call outs, are what are clipping, even at volume 35.
Like RATT pointed out, i think it may be the audio mix.....not sure. Hoping this amp smoothes it out too. Thanks Vireland.
Congrats on yer LE bruh!

I noticed on the Pro that the callouts were mixed really high/loud. If it's the pre-amp being overdriven adding an external amp won't help, except that it if it lets you lower the pre-amp volume and still have it loud, then it will.

#98 1 year ago
Quoted from Tbachli:

Had the same issue with my AC DC Vault Premium. Replaced two of the stiff switches after trying to adjust them. The stiffness just caused the blade to bend more, each time I adjusted it. Ordered 6 new switches and chose the softest two. No more problems

Had the same issue on my TNA which I believe uses the same crappy switch design. I replaced them with the much more reliable Williams design roller switch which takes a feather touch to depress due to the microswitch.

#104 1 year ago
Quoted from Breadfan:

Does this flash lamp stay on all the time like mine does? Works like it's supposed to in test mode,but then comes on with the GI in normal game mode?!?

Mine does, I thought it was just part of the GI?

Quoted from Russell:

Sometimes, my game seems to not realize when I’ve knocked a ball out of the sarcophagus lock into play. Then, when the first of the 2 balls drains, the game counts bonus and drains the remaining ball. Anyone else seen this? Fixes?

I have had this happen a few times now but never realized it might be related to knocking the ball into play. My lock detect switch is working fine (tested it yesterday) so I'm guessing maybe a SW bug?

#111 1 year ago
Quoted from tatman9999:

I took the top switch and flipped it around. Now it works every time.

Ah, I didn't realize it had another switch at the top of the lock mechanism. According to the manual this is #41 "Top Ball Sense".

So you physically mounted the switch in the other direction, so the tip of the switch arm is closer to the far end of the lock mechanism, and further away from the #40 Ball Lock switch at the bottom of the mech?

#114 1 year ago
Quoted from tatman9999:

Switch 39 is the top switch.

Whoops, my bad. Thanks for correcting.

#117 1 year ago
Quoted from Pdxmonkey:

I would replace them with rollover switches.
Some suggested it earlier and that sounds like a better switch

Replace with these micro-switch based ones: http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5647-12693-06

#123 1 year ago
Quoted from Russell:

This one: http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/180-5119-02 , is among the parts for IMDN LE on Marco Specialties. Is it somehow better than the one you mentioned for this location? Worse?

In my experience worse. I’ve had this style go out of adjustment and the switch ball become stiff and not function reliably. I much prefer the Williams style I linked to above that uses a microswitch which is feather light to activate. They are interchangeable.

#129 1 year ago
Quoted from Cserold:

OK, this is probably a dumb statement/question but just got my IMDN LE. When powering up no lights come on in the back box. Should they?

Yes, but only after the game boots, which takes 30 seconds or so on Spike II, feels like an eternity.

#138 1 year ago

I think the orb switch registering when the flippers fire is a chronic condition too. I’ve adjusted mine twice and tonight it’s doing it again. It’s either too sensitive or doesn’t register at all. Seems like the metal post in the center of the pop bumper spoon might be the issue? A pop bumper uses a lightweight slippery plastic post with a rounded tip in the spoon.

It doesn’t seem like the heavier metal post on the orb target returns to center every time.

I wish anyone trying to route a Prem or LE luck...

#163 1 year ago
Quoted from Cserold:

Hey gents,
Is there a solid fix for the left flipper button registering the sarcophagus Lock? MAIDEN LE here and mine did this out of box. I’ve read most others have same issue. Is there a solid fix anybody can recommend?
Thanks all!

You need to adjust the switch gap under the orb ball. A bit more space is needed between the blades of the switch to avoid having it touch with vibration from the flippers, etc.

Use the switch test diagnostic to test it while you make adjustments. Don’t bend it much we’re talking millimeters.

I need to adjust mine again was fine for a few days and now fires with the flipper again.

EDIT>>> Oops make that the switch under the sarcophagus captive ball. Same setup.

#199 1 year ago
Quoted from Russell:

I wasn’t planning on doing anything with diodes. I have no idea how. Is this necessary?

Shouldn't be. If the original switch doesn't have a diode attached to a couple of the bottom blades then you don't need to worry about it. From what I can see on my LE that aren't using diodes at the switch so no concerns.

#202 1 year ago
Quoted from Russell:

Received and installed these tonight. Lots of unscrewing, a little soldering & shrink tubing, took me about 45 minutes. (Getting good at this!?!). Good news is, these switches seem to work much more consistently. However, the bad news is that the little roller ball will not always allow the captive ball to pass over it. You can’t knock the ball back very far, and when the ball save happens and the sarcophagus lock lowers, the ball hangs up on the switches. I’m hoping this is just a matter of getting back in there and adjusting the arm of the switches a bit lower. I currently have the rollers facing down the playfield. I wonder if perhaps the upper one should be reversed (similar to how the game shipped.) I will try again tomorrow, irritated how hard it is to get to these switches to adjust.

I'd suggest putting the switches in the same way they are factory, which I *think* is at either end of the trough channel. It may be that the height issue you're seeing will simply go away if that switch is reversed. Adjusting these for height can be a bit tricky so I'd do the direction swap first and see if that sorts it out.

If you do need to adjust the switch it's important to keep the blade over the microswitch straight (as is) so it strikes it cleanly, and only bend the end part of the switch blade up or down. Basically put a little elbow in it past the microswitch section.

Looking at the factory switches in that trough (one of which on mine has never worked since I got it - too low, tried to adjust it last night, now it traps the ball *sigh*) you wonder what they were thinking. We have switches that work great for troughs, use them Stern!

Not much fun when these malfunction, game get's confused about # of balls in play and kills the flippers and ends your ball when you still have one in play.

#203 1 year ago
Quoted from iceman44:

Here is what I'd try. So I pulled the Sarcophagus mech and adjusted the switches so we will see what happens when i fire it up again.
There was a screw that was missing from the mech and left the metal arm dangling too.
The captive ball can be adjusted a bit itself. Not just the switch. Back off the screw that taps the white cap to generate more contact.
If that doesn't work pull the entire captive ball and reseat it. Maybe the spring is F ed up itself and needs to be adjusted.

I tried another adjustment on mine last night. Afterwards, in the course of about 3 games, it went from working when hit, to firing when the closest pop bumper did, to firing continuously with flippers.

My captive ball mech sort of feels off when you push it off center, sometimes it will stick off centre. The one in front of the sarcophagus doesn't feel that way, it's smooth and always returns to center. Maybe the spring is messed up or install wrong. I'm going to remove it today and have a look.

#231 1 year ago
Quoted from Rhlufa:

As far as Stern handling some issue..we got our Prem on Tuesday...I immediately noticed the cabinet speaker was defective. I got with Stern the next day..my new CPU is in the mail to swap out.

Not sure what you mean by defective, by on my LE I noticed with stock settings that the cab speaker sounded terrible. If you go into the Util setting for Volume you can adjust the bass and treble going to the cab speaker specifically. Try reducing the treble down to basically zero, since this is a sub speaker and not supposed to be producing any highs. This fixed it for me.

#232 1 year ago
Quoted from iceman44:

Try unscrewing that metal post that taps the cup a little bit to have it make better contact. Worked for me

Okay, took my Orb captive ball apart yesterday and found that if I tightened the retaining ring that holds the spring a little bit tighter I could make a bit more space between it and the outer retaining ring, which allows the captive ball to tilt more freely without binding on the outer ring. This makes it feel more smooth like my sarcophagus one does. I also lubed the metal on metal part with some synthetic grease.

However, the only thing that made the actual switch work reliably without mis-firing was to unscrew the metal bottom post that touches the plastic spoon about two full rotations to give it a little more length (as you noted). This increases the leverage that the tilting ball can apply to to the spoon. Mine was really loose though and vibrations from firing coils would make it keep turning so I applied some locktight to the threads and let it dry. After a bunch of games last night it continues to work perfectly, we'll see if it holds up.

So it would seem that Stern should either use a slightly longer bottom post or a slightly shorter bracket for the switch/spoon mech.

Now my sarcophagus captive ball fires perfectly when it's empty, but not at all if a ball is loaded in it. I'm thinking that the sw must register a hit if the top switch in the trough is closed by the second ball since the front ball doesn't move at all but simply transfers all the energy to the second ball? I need to test this to see if it's that case. I've been having trouble getting that switch adjusted to actually work and so for no luck. I guess I'll order the roller style switches as well. This seems like a really common problem with this mech, you think Stern will issue a service bulletin?

#234 1 year ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

Actually its not a sub and is just a woofer ... supposed to produce sone voice .

Sorry, that’s what I meant.

#241 1 year ago
Quoted from Fytr:

...Now my sarcophagus captive ball fires perfectly when it's empty, but not at all if a ball is loaded in it. I'm thinking that the sw must register a hit if the top switch in the trough is closed by the second ball since the front ball doesn't move at all but simply transfers all the energy to the second ball? I need to test this to see if it's that case. I've been having trouble getting that switch adjusted to actually work and so for no luck. I guess I'll order the roller style switches as well. This seems like a really common problem with this mech, you think Stern will issue a service bulletin?

Pulled the sarcophagus mech off, the upper switch (captive ball hit) was far too stiff, the ball would get stuck on top of the blade and still not depress it. My bottom switch was far easier to activate. My TNA used the same switches in the trough and had the same problems, these are a poor design and/or not being manufactured to spec consistently. So zero for 2 on NIB games not working this year because of these cruddy switches.

I had an old Williams style microswitch and was able to bend a different shaped blade/arm to mostly match the original switches shape. The new one activates with a feather touch.

Put everything back together and for the first time since I unboxed it my game is sensing captive ball hits with the mech loaded and functioning properly.

Unfortunately, this is probably not something a casual player without experience fixing games is going to want to tackle.

#248 1 year ago
Quoted from Cserold:

Sometimes when I shoot sarcophagus the ball comes down off little ramp in back and just drops on top of the plastic then off to the left upper flipper. That’s not correct is it?

I’m pretty sure it only holds one ball, then becomes a virtual lock and the ball rolls off to the left upper flipper.

#251 1 year ago
Quoted from Cserold:

Gotcha. That’s good news. What’s the fix for when the game doesn’t recognize a ball waiting behind the plastic for a sarcophagus Lock?

Check the switch back there using the switch test diagnostics. Might need a slight adjustment or something.

#270 1 year ago
Quoted from Russell:

I think it’s finally working 100%!
I have tried every combination to get the sarcophagus lock working perfectly. Every time you tweak it, you have to fully remove and reinstall the whole mech. I ended up with a roller ball switch in the upper location facing upwards (roller ball toward the head), and a regular switch in the lower location facing down.
This combination seems to register all hits, including knocking the ball free. I just played a good game and had no missed switch hits on either captive ball, and no mis-counting issues.
I also got the launch working perfectly, both manually and upon auto-launch.
Let me know if I can be of assistance with any of these issues. I think I’ve done it, and I never called distributor or Stern. (yet)

That is excellent news! Nice score too.

Mine is also working 100% as of last night. It will be interesting to see if the dang captive ball switches will stabilize now or need regular adjustment.

#277 1 year ago
Quoted from iceman44:

Interesting, it seems I have to start a mode first before I can start collecting letters, maybe after the mode ends?
It won’t register immediately after locking first ball any time. So you can start hitting captive ball right after lock and gets letters?
Sent Chas another message
I eventually get Mummy MB just takes longer

I think anytime the MUMMY inserts are are lit solid white the captive ball won't register hits. So if you're not seeing a letter or the red insert at the top flashing then don't expect the switch to register.

#281 1 year ago
Quoted from iceman44:

Immediately after ball rolls into the lock I get red insert solid and letter M lit
Then I can’t figure out what makes it start to register at some point but it’s not right away
Does your red insert flash right away?

According to the rules wiki hosted on the tiltforums site (http://tiltforums.com/t/iron-maiden-pinball-rulesheet-wip/3787):

Mummy Multi-Ball

Shoot the Sarcophagus captive ball to spell MUMMY and light Mummy Lock. On the Pro this will be a virtual lock up the center ramp (and denoted by the green lock insert). On the Premium/LE, the lock is on the left ramp (and denoted by the arrow insert turning red). Spell MUMMY again at captive ball to immediately start Mummy Multi-Ball.

During Mummy MB, qualify jackpots at the captive ball via switch hits. Jackpot qualifications cannot be stacked, and the switch hit threshold increases for each jackpot. Each jackpot ball will spot a MUMMY letter. Spell MUMMY to light SJP at the Pharaoh Target (bulls-eye above Ctr Ramp). SJP value is multiplied for more accurate bulls-eye shot. For subsequent jackpot rounds, values are doubled, but MUMMY letters will be cycling, and hits to the captive ball will only score a JP when on an available letter.

After collecting the first Mummy jackpot, one Add-A-Ball is available by shooting the left ramp.

So you should be able to immediately keep hammering on the captive ball after locking to spell Mummy again?

I can't check until I get home.

#282 1 year ago
Quoted from iceman44:

Really? Maybe that’s how it’s supposed to work?
I’m confused.
Let’s see what reply I get back from Stern
Either way, Mummy MB hits eventually start
I do get an extra ball counted somehow at times when I stack a MB with a mode
Drains with one ball left and shoots out two ball into shooter lane after drain
Not often but that has to be a code bug I think

I had that happening too. I'm pretty sure mine was caused by the captive ball hit switch not registering at the top/far end of the sarcophagus trough. So you'd release the locked ball and the game wouldn't sense it and would end your ball with a ball left in play when you got down to 1 ball left.

At least I haven't seen the problem since I replaced that switch.

#320 1 year ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

I would think the issue would be more the ball hitting the shooter lane switch, then bouncing back up away from the auto plunger. I could be wrong, I guess I'm assuming the auto plunge is due to the switch and not on a timer off of the trough coil. This calls for scientific experimentation (when I get home tomorrow).

On my LE I've had times where the autoplunger hits the lower post or upper left flipper tip instead of making through the left loop but it's always self corrected within a few more auto-plunges and mostly is fine. Not sure if that's helpful to anyone.

#325 1 year ago
Quoted from Billy16:

One of my pads was completely missing, and the other one was broken. Sent Stern an email asking for new ones. My upper left spot does not work, no obvious reason for it being dead.

I thought the same thing re: left spot.

Did you try it in the flasher diagnostics?

Mine works and flashes for about .5 second when the tomb is about to open and that’s it. It should be flashing the whole time the tomb is opening in my opinion (or just on to throw some needed light on it).

#333 1 year ago
Quoted from Billy16:

You sir, are a genius! It is indeed just a flasher (that should really be put to better use, as you said). I almost didn't post this "problem" as it was so minor, but glad I did--I never woulda figured that out.

Hardly! Looks like they were listening to us!

display effect
- Guardian Diverter - light show has been improved when opening / closing

#365 1 year ago
Quoted from Billy16:

Noticed "Mummy" wasn't doing anything anymore, which is about the only thing I am halfway good at. Thanks to all the posts here it was easy to figure out what was going on and to fix it. I have a feeling the newton ball mechs are going to be adjusted a lot...

I have to say that after extending my captive ball posts by unscrewing them a few turns and locktighting them at that location my captive balls have been working 100%.

...though not a day goes by where I’m not a little surprised that they still do.

#373 1 year ago
Quoted from Fytr:

I have to say that after extending my captive ball posts by unscrewing them a few turns and locktighting them at that location my captive balls have been working 100%.
...though not a day goes by where I’m not a little surprised that they still do.

Haha I totally jinxed myself writing that! The very next game I played my sarcophagus captive ball started registering a hit when the flipper was pressed to select a song.

Funny thing is that after that no more hits are registered from other coil activity that I can tell, you’d think the flipper would keep doing it? Anyway, time to widen the gap a literal hair.

#413 1 year ago
Quoted from charles4400:

If intentional wouldn't the natural vibrations throughout gameplay move the hex post out of position in time as it doesnt take much to turn it either direction.

I can’t comment on what the design intent was, but I lengthened mine by a couple of full rotations and used a little locktight to keep them rotating from vibration.

It’s the only way I could keep the switches adjusted so they register when hit but not from nesrby coils firing, shaker, etc.

#415 1 year ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

I'm starting to get less excited about my LE turning up

Don’t be! This game is incredible been playing it non-stop all weekend!

#426 1 year ago
Quoted from trilamb:

Okay, so I've had my machine for 7 days now and have had way too many troubles and am turning here to see if anyone has any ideas, as I'm completely out of ideas.
- Right out of the box I had opto issues with the Orb shot. No problem, tweaked the mechanism, got better. Have had to fix it twice more, but okay. No biggee.
- Manual plunger hits left post most of the time. Okay. Tried a bunch of things. Different pitches. Loosened the plunger housing, adjusted so plunger hits the direct center of the ball. Took the plastic and wireframe off the right side of the machine so I could tweak the metal guide lane by loosening that screw and slightly moving it. Eventually I got the manual plunge dialed in. Has been consistent for 5 days.
- Auto-plunge hits the upper left flipper. And now we get to the as-of-yet unsolvable problem. For 7 days I have tweaked this bastard. I'll get it dialed in for a few hours and then it craps out on me and starts hitting the upper left flipper again - after working fine for hours and nothing discernible changing in the game.
I got sick of it over the weekend and had my distributer come by yesterday to fix it. He's a lovely guy and I was very appreciative he was trying to help me out. He tweaked it for about two hours. We did EVERYTHING we could think of. Tweaked the angle of the auto-plunge prongs, changed the pitch from everything between 7.3 and 6.5, straightened the auto-plunge housing. Finally we got it working. Was getting about 9/10 successful auto-plunges for 30 auto-plunges in a row. I told him to take off. Seems about as good as it's going to get. Quite happy with 27/30. Played for a few hours last night.
Then I turn the machine on again this morning and check the auto-plunge. 0/10 successful auto-plunges. Total fail. I did NOTHING to the machine other than play for about 90 minutes on it last night (when it was consistently giving me 9/10 successes). This morning, for no reason I can understand, I'm getting 0/10.
So... anyone got any ideas? My distributer is going to try and replace the kicker assembly, but I'm just not 100% confident that's going to do it. We've also sent a video to Stern of it hitting upper left flipper, waiting to hear if they have any ideas, but figured I'd post here too in case others get into the same issue.
You can see a video of it linked below. Also, in my other videos you'll see it working about 7/10 times for an hour straight over the weekend in a stream I did with my buddy.
I love the game and have enjoyed it IMMENSELY when it's working, but so frustrating when it just seems to stop auto-plunging correctly for no reason over and over again every time I think I have it sorted. If you know the game at all you know how frustrating that can be in a multi-ball, especially Trooper as it cannot stage the balls at all.

Sounds super frustrating. My auto and manual plunge have both been very consistent for a couple of weeks. A couple nights ago they both went to shit. I haven't changed anything. I'm hoping next time I play they will start working again. Some of these issues seem to come and go.

#469 1 year ago
Quoted from Billy16:

Anyone having an issue with a ball still on the table and the machine goes dead, then starts totaling up the score? This isn't being caused by an overload of switch hits, either. Maybe a trough issue--thinks it has 6 balls when it only has 5?

This can occur if your captive ball hit switch isn't registering in the sarcophagus lock trough (LE or Premium). Basically when you hit the locked ball out of the lock the game doesn't realize it and then assumes your ball is over when you still have a ball in play.

See https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/iron-maiden-issues/page/5#post-4432426

#502 1 year ago
Quoted from Russell:

Uh oh. I think maybe I set up my plunge incorrectly. I was trying to figure out the super skill shot. According to the wiki:
Super Skill Shot
Hold the left flipper and plunge to the INNER orbit. The ball will roll back down to the upper flipper. Shoot the Super Jackpot shot to score a Super Skill Shot worth 5 million points, a lit Playfield Multiplier, and 10 seconds of ball saver time.
My plunge, both manual and auto, go around the outer loop on the left, not the inner loop. Is it supposed to go into the inner or outer loop?

Inner loop.

#504 1 year ago
Quoted from Russell:

That’s weird. If it goes into the outer loop, with the right speed, it drops off the shelf, then comes back to the upper flipper. Now THAT’s a skill shot. That’s why I assumed this was the proper setup.

Whoops you’re right it is outer.

#526 1 year ago
Quoted from Tyamry:

Here is my LE that I unboxed today. What a disappointment. Can’t play without a ball trough. How does that happen?

...does it have the “Inspected by Mr. Magoo” sticker on the lockdown bar?

Sorry but sometimes you just have to laugh. I really wish Stern would implement modern QC processes (as in since WW2) like what any “normal” manufacturing company uses. This is just not that hard. Humans make mistakes, checklists and independant double-checks rarely do.

#567 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Here's a post I made earlier in this thread:
I've been buying NIB Stern's since 2004 and I've never had such a grainy PF. It's severe. Doesn't effect play, but effects the artwork big time...makes it look crappy from many angles. I've consulted with pinball PF experts and they all believe the wood was rough when the PF was screened. Unacceptable...especially on a Premium/LE.

Any word from your distro?

1 week later
#597 1 year ago
Quoted from Billy16:

I hope there is a permanent fix, but I doubt it. I think we are in for constant adjustment on this--the point gap has such a small window of being right it doesn't take much to knock it out of adjustment. Being hit hard all the time certainly doesn't help...

So I was told that Stern has a fix available for the chronically out of adjustment newton ball switches.

I called Stern Support and asked for the fix. They sent me a new bottom post that screws onto the newton ball post under the playfield. It has a much sharper point on it than the stock post. I haven't had a chance to measure the stock one to see if it's any longer or not though.

IMG_3836 (resized).JPG

Of course, they only sent one.

Since I loosened/lowered the stock posts 2 full rotations and used loc-tite on the threads to keep them there my switches are probably working 95% of the time and never false firing. I'm going to wait and see how it goes before I bother putting this new post on.

In any case, I'd recommend contacting Stern support to get them to send out this replacement post if you are having issues. Make sure then send you 2x of them though.

#605 1 year ago
Quoted from crwjumper:

I just ordered one too. The tech guy (Not Chaz) sounded perturbed. But he usually does. We must be flooding them with this request. Always enjoy working with Chaz!

Get two. You need two of them.

#613 1 year ago
Quoted from Marvin:

there was no missing trough on the Maiden, there was a missing left wall that directs the ball to the trough based on the pics.

That's sooo much better!

1 month later
#882 1 year ago
Quoted from Tranquilize:

I don't want to sound combative, but you do understand what "barely" means, right? The springs are very weak springs for a reason: they "barely" need to pull on the flipper to bring it back to position as gravity helps as well. I didn't say that everyone should pull off the springs in all their machines and throw them away - far from it. And to assume that people that are new to understanding flippers understand how to check friction is a big assumption. Many new pinheads are scared to raise the playfield.

Yep. The flipper should be free moving with no binding. If there is any binding at all a stronger spring would be a temporary solution at best. Check the sleeve, coil stop, flipper gap, and coil alignment. Sometimes you need to loosen the screws on the coil stop and hold the coil tight and straight and retighten to straighten the alignment out.

The rivets on Stern’s coil stops are notorious for disintegrating rapidly even on a new game.

Check the vid1900 thread on flipper rebuilds to see what to look for.

2 weeks later
#1073 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Using that picture as a guide, one could just re-bend the existing switch arm into that shape I imagine.

That's what I ended up doing, installing an old Williams micro-switch I had on-hand and bending the blade to the correct shape to work. Been great for several months but was a PIA to get right.

2 weeks later
#1140 1 year ago
Quoted from jorge5240:

So will the new actuator solve the mummy newton ball switch issue? Mine is fubared. I can adjust it and it will work for a game or two and then right back to not working. Weird because my orb seems to work fine.

I’ve solved my newton ball switch issues completely, still using the original factory posts too. See https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/iron-maiden-issues/page/5#post-4432144

I did also apply a tiny amount of synthetic grease to the end of the metal post where it meets the plastic spoon to reduce friction. Probably not necessary with the new pointy posts.

I think backing the posts off 2 turns to lengthen them and blue loctite in place was the magic step for me.

1 month later
#1217 1 year ago
Quoted from x-rug-x:

...The other thing I noticed while working on this, is that the balls are pretty heavily marked up. Nothing deep, they just don't look new any longer, but if I compare them to my Deadpool, they look considerably more 'used' considering the games have had similar amount of play.

See https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/up-the-irons-the-iron-maiden-pinball-official-owners-club/page/29#post-4453139.

Mine were the same way. After covering the sharp metal edges below the ramp and installing new balls things are much better. I'll pull the balls and post a pic when I get a chance. Recommend that people take action on this if they are worried about potential long-term PF damage, esp. if the game is on-route, etc.

1 month later
#1437 1 year ago
Quoted from splitcms:

Whenever I tap the orb Newton ball and watch the plastic saucer, it does not move. Do I have to bend this up a little So the metal pencil fits in the saucer more tightly?

Yes, that's the idea. The spoon switch has very tight tolerances so it takes a bit of fiddling around to get it right, but if it's not making contact try bending it toward the post a bit. It is very important that the post rests in the middle of the spoon so be careful not to bend the spoon out of alignment.

#1440 1 year ago

Alright gents, my IMDN LE auto-launch out of the box was working correctly about 2/3 - 3/4 of the time.

I checked the ball guide and it was nice and straight and set to the furthest out/highest setting without bending anything. When the ball shoots successfully it seems perfectly aligned. However, some of the time it will either hit the black rubber post below the left loop entrance, or the tip of the small flipper across from it (so too low or too high).

So I tried messing with the autolaunch coil power settings a bit, no appreciable difference in the success/failure rate, but it does give a bit of a choice of whether when it fails you want the ball to have enough force to possibly give you a super-jackpot sometime, or just roll part-way up the ramp and then dribble down the middle.

I also took a look at the auto-launcher itself and I believe that it is the source of the problem. It is simply not built to the kind of tolerances that will keep the prongs centered reliably on the ball. It is very sloppy, and the single lightweight metal arm on the right side that is triggered by the coil firing naturally causes a sideways twisting pressure on it that can cause the prongs to be slightly higher on one side than the other, or even make both prongs move to the left away from center.

I even tried to introduce more tension in the shooter prong piece by bending the two arms below the playfield further apart so that there would some tension when it was tightened and it would be less sloppy side-to-side. This was effective in reducing the side-to-side sloppyness when using light pressure but not enough to hold when the coil fires. Even the bushings used around the rod that holds it are too large with enough of a gap to prevent it from staying perfectly straight. The net result was 0% improvement, still works 2/3 - 3/4 of the time.

So I don't think this can be solved without someone creating a replacement launcher, or maybe an upgrade kit for the existing one. Stern's launcher is as cheap as you could possibly make it, I think the metal on it might actually float it's so lightweight...

First handyman to craft a reliable autolauncher get's my $100.

1 week later
#1471 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Truth! Every time I fiddle with this mech it's frustrating. I've owned 40-50 machines and have fixed/tweaked a lot of mechs and this is among the worst (the most arcane/complex/ornate implementation of a simple feature). I realize Keith was the new guy on the block, but you'd think Stern would have given him the "A team" to polish the Premium/LE (since the design of the game was largely accomplished outside Stern).
Do you think there is ANY chance Stern comes up with a proper solution? That would be great, but out of character for them...

It was the mechanical engineer’s first pinball project as well.

Agree this is going to be an ongoing problem. You simply couldn’t consider routing a prem or le of this game with these mechs.

Mine have been pretty good but considering the relatively low plays my game gets vs a routed game...

#1475 1 year ago
Quoted from hank35:

Nice. I'm happy to announce 100% accuracy for the auto fire since this tweak. I've put on about 50 games since my last post, and well dammit, it still works.

It sounds nuts but evidence is evidence.

Where does one acquire one of these mystical plasic wedges?

#1497 1 year ago
Quoted from patrickvc:

I got the switches today, getting the game tommorow so I wanted to be ready, these feel a little stiff like not feather like to activate. They are the ones that were recommended.

Do they make a light clicking sound when you close them?

2 weeks later
#1574 1 year ago
Quoted from hank35:

Ya. The shim mod kicks ass. After 100 games, and having the playfield lifted/lowered about 6 times, this is still working 100% for me.
God bless the guy who came up with that one.

I can concur that adding the plastic shim makes the auto plunge a lot more consistent!

My game went from approx. 70% accurate to 95% by adding the shim.

Well done!

#1578 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

I don't understand why you'd add a shim if there's an adjustment built into the shooter lane guide...see my post above.
Nothing against adding a shim, but less-is-more when it comes to tweaking stuff like this (especially if it allows you to fully tighten the screws).
In any event, I'm hoping that Stern folks will be able to advise me on further tweaks. On this title, getting auto-launch to work close to 100% is important (with all the MB's, etc.).

Experience has shown that simply adjusting the screws doesn't work. On the other hand, adding the shim seems to.

I can only guess that the metal guiderail is too thin or doesn't have enought support posts and flexes a bit which may prevent the ball from "sticking" to it in a manner that always for a consistent exit off of it. With the shim the ball contacts the guiderail "early" and hugs it until the exit. Without it it's either not contacting the rail until a bit further down the lane or possibly bouncing off of it slightly causing "turbulence". Just a hypothetical on my part but enough people have tried enough difference things and this is the first one I've tried personally that really seems to make a difference.

#1588 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

My experience with adjusting the *adjustable* screw in my photo works really well for me or I wouldn't have posted it! My ONLY problem with the shim solution is it relies on not tightening screws, which makes no sense to me (since my game worked flawlessly for 150 games before regressing). For me, a long-term solution needs to depend on screws that are fully fastened.

I messed around with the adding a washer (my rail seemed straight anyway), adjusting the guide position, and a bunch with the auto launch mech itself (as I posted earlier in this thread) and nothing really helped until I added the shim. Previously to that the ball would sometimes hit the lower post or the upper flipper tip, so it wasn't failing in a reliable way that I could adjust for.

My guide posts are snug but not cranked down. I suspect that over-tighening them tilts the rail a bit that causes issues. They do have lock nuts on them so it's not like they are going to fall off, but only longer term testing will show if there is an issue due to the snug-but-not-tight nuts.

#1595 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

I see. I appreciate the background. Wow...can't believe how subtle this one is. Seems like some folks got new guides from Stern that helped? If so, variance in parts miiight explain why all of us are seeing slightly different behavior. I've fiddled with a lot of games and don't recall a tweak being so elusive...

Yeah it’s finicky. Though on most games the tolerances for auto launch consistency are much higher. It’s really sweet having a working auto launch on this game.

#1611 1 year ago
Quoted from BC_Gambit:

If it costs Stern more money and doesn't bring in more cash... yeah they seem to have moved away from it

Though it would be kind of awesome if Stern started shipping plastic toilet shims out to fix the auto plunge issues...

#1638 1 year ago
Quoted from jorge5240:

I am about to tackle my auto launch/ manual launch, and wanted to know what you guys are using for the plastic shim?
Thanks, Mike

It is just a plastic toilet shim, available at any hardware store for about $5.

amazon.com link »

#1655 1 year ago
Quoted from barakandl:

Yep i did that.. mostly to just save on those LED beads.
There is a setting for game play GI bright, attract mode GI bright, and test mode GI bright. I went like 75 / 50 / 10. For the amount of current saved the brightness loss is minimal... i was kinda thinking at 100% they where pushing those LEDs hard... really bright.

I’m at 70/ 33 / 10

Bg is crazy bright at 100 and the LE glass looks much better at the lower brightness (70) and matches my other games better as well.

I also lower the controlled lamps to 75 which is plenty bright enough for the inserts. You can actually see the insert art at that brightness as well.

#1670 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Once again, my ORB captive ball was out of whack (resulting in not being able to select a song because it was registering prematurely). The mech has the revised pointy armature secured with a dab of blue loctite. Turns out the screws that secure the mech to the PF were loose (even though I tightened them 20 games ago?). I just added a couple toothpicks to secure the screws. Tested. Seems like the weight/orientation of the mech loosens the screws no matter how tight/secure they appear to be. The wood screws are tight, but without a locking mechanism, they come loose no matter how many toothpicks I add. The loctite works great for machine screws. Any tips on what might do a better job securing these wood screws? Maybe a wider screw? I've tweaked a lot of games and never encountered a mech loosening so quickly after tightening. Weird.
[quoted image]

I normally would use a piece of a bamboo skewer and some good wood glue in the hole. Going to a wider screw is also an option but shouldn't be necessary.

I've rebuilt completely thrashed flipper plate mounting screw holes this way and they've been solid as a rock for years afterwards.

#1672 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Yeah, I try to avoid glue, but in this case I think it's necessary. This is a simple example of a poor design...they should have had this mech bolted down with lock washers/nuts. Tiny wood screws just don't work for this mech. Loosening after hundreds of plays wouldn't be so bad, but this is loosening after 20-30 plays. Unacceptable.
Thanks for the help!

No reason at all to avoid wood glue in this circumstance.

Agree this mech should have used been machine screws through the PF. Situation isn't helped by people having to remove them to fix them somewhat frequently.

#1698 1 year ago
Quoted from Sutol:

Had the same problem. Its the plastic tie they used for the cable on the post.you just need to raise it up the post and turn it to the smooth side. Not had a single hang up since.
[quoted image]

Intersting. I have this problem quit frequently as well, will have to look for the tie.

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