I'm not sure your first opinion isn't correct as the Premium doesn't pencil out $$ wise for the added features and it has the least appealing artwork, imo. That being said, if I liked the art I'd still buy a Premium because this game is so cool.

Well...there are a lot of sharp people on Pinside, there must be a few Sharpe ones at Stern, so between the two sources I am confident work-arounds will be found for all these relatively minor (but annoying) issues. Can't believe that Keith would leave us hanging--he seems to have too much integrity do that.

Maybe, but then you'd be rolling the dice that anything will change/improve by waiting.

Perhaps not counting on Stern to do it, but surely someone will figure out a way to improve this?

The initial plunge slams into the far post instead of going around the orbit, but the auto plunge works perfectly. I have adjusted the plunger assembly which did not help. So, do I adjust the guide and risk screwing up the auto plunge? Thoughts?

Thanks, I went back and re-aligned it one last time and that did it. However, now I lost my great auto launch, it usually hits the post--bummer.

Does the wire form have to come off to get to the plastics?

Thanks. My auto was working perfectly until I got the manual to work by adjusting the housing vertically. Maybe I moved something on the auto mech when I did that--if it was working well before the guide has to be really close to being right.

I did not get to that trick, a vertical adjustment fixed the issue. Somehow that fix goofed up the auto launch--wouldn't think that should have affected it.

It might work, but I'm at a loss as to what removing the washer would do mechanically? I thought it was just protection for the housing.

I can't explain it, exactly but I can give you a good tip on how to start playing with it. Loosen the 3 phillips head screws, then completely remove the two hex head sheet metal screws. It will move a lot, but won't if you do not remove the hex heads. I had to make several adjustments before I got it in the right spot. Still have not replaced the sheet metal screws, but I'll get to it. They seem redundant, anyway.

I heard you may have trouble getting the counter-rotating disks to work properly...

One of my pads was completely missing, and the other one was broken. Sent Stern an email asking for new ones. My upper left spot does not work, no obvious reason for it being dead.

You sir, are a genius! It is indeed just a flasher (that should really be put to better use, as you said). I almost didn't post this "problem" as it was so minor, but glad I did--I never woulda figured that out.

Funny about that, I sent Keith a message and he responded that it had been tweaked some in 1.0.

Thanks for all this info--I never see any of this cool stuff as I am too busy trying to keep the ball(s) in play...

Yeah, I get it to strike the ball correctly about 40% of the time and have given up.

Noticed "Mummy" wasn't doing anything anymore, which is about the only thing I am halfway good at. Thanks to all the posts here it was easy to figure out what was going on and to fix it. I have a feeling the newton ball mechs are going to be adjusted a lot...

I wonder how red would look?

That doesn't solve anything, it hits the post before it gets into the orbit.

My auto launch worked perfectly until I fixed the manual launch issue--hitting the post. Manual now works 100%, auto launch went in the tank (hits the same post 60% of the time)--which was why I was hesitant to fix the manual plunge in the first place. If you all find a definitive fix, I'll try it--otherwise I'll just live with it.

Anyone having an issue with a ball still on the table and the machine goes dead, then starts totaling up the score? This isn't being caused by an overload of switch hits, either. Maybe a trough issue--thinks it has 6 balls when it only has 5?

That's a lot of not recognizing--I'll take a look (again) at both of these.

Or zip tie the connector together

I hope there is a permanent fix, but I doubt it. I think we are in for constant adjustment on this--the point gap has such a small window of being right it doesn't take much to knock it out of adjustment. Being hit hard all the time certainly doesn't help...

Thanks! I just called and ordered two.

We shouldn't have to ask for the fixes, Stern should be contacting us and/or mailing them out to anyone who bought a Maiden Prem/LE.

My auto plunge still sucks. What is different mechanically on the new auto plunger?

You have to remove the two bottom screws and loosen the top three. The bottom screws (I think those two are sheet metal screws) don't allow any adjustment like the top three do.

I'd take 80%...

Just got my new newton ball actuators from Stern. Problem was new ones look just like the old ones. So I call Stern and talk to David. He told me they were expecting calls, as a bunch of the old ones went out by mistake. So I'll wait for the pointed ones to arrive. I asked if there was a fix for the auto launch. He said there are not any new parts, just to keep adjusting it--and once adjusted give it at least 20 games so that it can try and correct itself before re-adjusting. If that doesn't work, "call back".

Hmmm...using some linseed oil on the shooter lane might be a good idea...man I miss that smell!

Anyone have a good adhesive they have used to affix the rubber bumpers to the top/front of the head? Mine both came off during shipment.

Thanks!

I gotta think if you call Chas and/or send him a photo he'll have a good laugh and send you another one.

Don't have a photo, but if they are fully rounded on the bottom they are the old ones. Sounds like your leaf gaps are incorrect, take a look at both at set them with a really small gap, try it and repeat if that doesn't fix the issue. May take a couple of tries, as there is a really narrow range of gap that is acceptable.

I finally broke down and bought a leaf switch adjustor tool, as it is really hard to get the tiny gap on the newton balls right without it. When I adjusted mine I tried a really small set of needle nose pliers, then used a toothpick and my fingers. Its hard without the tool.

No.

For anyone waiting on the new pointed newton ball actuating arms--I was told by David they are back ordered, unknown how long it will take for them to arrive.

My auto plunge is almost laughable. Sometimes it hits the loop, usually not. Now it is hitting so far down the post on occasion it is almost sad. There does not seem to be much auto or "learning" (as Chas said it will do) going on with the plunger.

Yes it is.

Just installed the pointed newton arms and re-gapped the switches--seems to work perfect. Played with the auto launch some more--still sucks.

I just talked to David about the auto launch issue. He said they have been working on it and as of right now there is no permanent fix. It is going to be a continual battle unless someone comes up with the magic fix. I may try a stronger coil to see if that helps--the next strongest coil per David is a 23700, #090-5022-00T--he said it is about 10% stronger. He also said to make sure the machine is level side-to-side, and try 6.5 pitch.

Well, I spent a couple of hours this morning adjusting everything and its grandmother, and the auto plunge still sucks. I can make it a little better, but never better than 75%.

If you can get the manual plunge to work, so should the auto--right? I still think a stronger coil is the answer, but have not tried it to see if it will work. Come on, Stern, figure this out ( or admit the design error).

dts--Next time you come to vacation in Aguanga, please stop by and fix mine

First thing to try is to make sure the leaf switch point gap is not too big, too small, or closed. It is such a fine line between being right and being wrong it isn't funny. The actuating arm has to be centered in the plastic cup. If you don't have the newer pointed actuating arms, call Stern and get two. If you don't have a leaf switch adjusting tool, buy one--"your gonna need it!"

If it is anything like mine as soon as you fix the manual the auto will go wonky...

...reading thru the whole thread...

I just checked and all four of my flippers had no play at all. Someone on the assembly line is just mashing the flippers down until bottomed and tightening them there.

Having an issue where the ramp gate to the sarcophagus lock won't stay up when it should. The lights flash for the shot to be made, but the ramp seems confused--sometimes it goes up then comes right back down. Anyone experience this or have a suggestion?

Found the problem, one of the gate locating "points" was hitting the ramp before going all the way into the cutout. A slight bend and that fixed it.

I seem to recall reading that only the rear switch should be replaced with a roller as it was just too hard to get the front roller set up properly. You'll have to read back thru the Maiden threads to find this post and see if I am recalling this correctly.

Didn't know that was there, thanks!

Has Stern upgraded the mech, or did they just sent you one that worked properly?

The pointed actuator arm should help, if you don't already have it. Make sure the bottom of the arm is centered in the cup, if it isn't it can hang up and refuse to re-center after moving.

I'd leave it alone. Mine was the same, fixed the manual to100% which altered the auto (somehow). Never got the auto as good again.

As for #1, I adjusted the post height--give it a try and it may work. Didn't really help me all that much, but a slight shake will get the ball moving.

I've monkey'd with mine and tried most of the fixes. Some helped, some didn't. Now all of a sudden it is auto launching at about 90% or better. Hope whatever bent into the right shape stays that way.

I found a good way to set the contact gap is to use a small bright flashlight so you can really see in-between the contacts. You can get the gap down to almost nothing (the contact area is really small) using a good lite and a leaf switch adjuster tool--which is what you need to adjust the gap properly.

My advice--if the auto plunge is perfect--don't screw with it! Wait until you have auto plunge problems before touching anything.

I speak from experience. Mine came with the auto working 100% and the manual hitting the post. Got the manual to 100%, auto went right in the dumper. Took me forever to get the auto back--shoulda left things alone...

I just noticed that both my left flippers seem to be firing at the same time and are not staggered as I would expect. Anyone else experience this? Best way to adjust if this is not the preferred method of operation? Thanks.

Uh oh, I got two different opinions on the left flippers firing together. Anyone have a tie-breaking opinion based on how their game is set up? I'm not sure if mine was like this the entire time I've had it, or if it something that changed over time.

Thanks, I'll get it adjusted correctly!

I'm betting they were replaced with cheaper switches.

I hope this proves to be true for us. Last time I called I wasn't told this exactly--but in so many words---that they were kind of hoping Keith was gonna figure out how to make this work better. His game, I guess that seems fair. There has to be a better fix for this and the newton ball actuating.

I'm not so sure about that--my auto was 95% or better right out of the box and the manual was terrible. I got the manual to 100% by adjusting the mechanism placement and the auto plunge absolutely tanked. Took forever to get it almost back to where it was. How adjusting the manual mech screwed up the auto launcher is baffling, but that's how mine went.

See post 1854. My advice, leave it alone.

There are plenty of soft plunge skill shots to aim for, which is what I usually do. If your auto goes wonky, then I'd (try to) fix them both--but if you are getting 90% or better auto launch I'd sit back and enjoy it.

Well, I just spent an hour and thirty working on the bottom sarcophagus switch.... We'll see how long this fix works...

Nevermind--none of the adjustment worked as it all went wonky again today. I believe the switch is so stiff it isn't going to work no matter how I bend the arm. Next up, taking it all back apart and swapping in a roller switch...

I installed the pointed actuators and think they do work better than the round ones. Not a great deal better, but better.

I replaced the balky sarcophagus switch with a roller switch--problem solved. Added the stronger auto fire coil, and that does make a difference. Why Stern doesn't use these items to begin with is lame, lazy...and cheap.

Mine was getting stuck on the switch arm, as this switch was super stiff (like the one I had to replace in the sarcophagus). I flattened it out a little and that fixed it. A roller switch would have been a better idea here.

.

it probably does not come apart, at least not on purpose. I took my mech apart to install a roller switch and it was mostly straight forward, although a little awkward. Just start unscrewing stuff from the bottom-up and eventually the ball and post will come off in one piece out of the top of the mech. The other newton ball is a good reference for putting it back together in the right order.

I've tried nearly all the suggested fixes, some work and some don't (or don't last long). The more powerful coil is a big help and worth the swap--it will increase the percentage of good launches. However, if the auto-launch prongs don't contact the ball squarely and your shooter lane guide isn't smooth and adjusted perfectly, it is not a guaranteed 100% cure. Everything has to be just so to get close to 100% accuracy on the auto-launch. It has to be the most finicky auto-launching Stern, there is no room for error in the set-up. Even the top flippers have to be set at just the right angle to avoid being struck by an auto-launched ball.

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Make sure the end of the actuating rod is directly centered in the middle of the spoon. If it is off just a little it can cause sticking. Even when it is adjusted as good as you can adjust it, it still might stick but another hit should re-center it. I polished the end of the rod to make sure there were no burrs, and made sure the spoon was smooth. Poor design, you just do what you can and live with it.

I just bought a small sheet of mylar, cut a piece from it and placed it under the ramp.

Well...at least I didn't use duct tape...

I'd have to take the guide back off, which I don't want to mess with. If you take your guide off what I did should make sense to you. If not you can send me a photo of your guide and I can tell you what tab to cut off to make it like the newest version of the guide. You could always call Stern and ask for the new guide--maybe it will fit your game.

Photo 1 is it.

I just looked at my guide again. There is a rivet in the middle of the curve at the upper end. Whatever is attached to this rivet--maybe it was a threaded bolt--is what I cut off (and isn't on the newest guide). It puts all the holding of the end of the guide solely on the adjustment screw, but as S-Squid has noted you can shim the end to keep it in place if the screw tends to loosen. I have not had any issues in 6 months since I used this fix on my guide.

I found my original post on this fix: I made one more adjustment to my shooting guide today that made a big difference, so I thought I'd pass it along. I have made all the normal adjustments and installed the more powerful coil, which has helped. After time my percentage of accurate auto launches was decreasing so I thought I'd take another look at it. Stern had sent me the new and "improved" metal shooting lane guide. I tried to install it and found the adjustment mounting tab was in the wrong place--and I didn't want to drill another hole in the playfield. Both guides are very similar, except the new one does not have the threaded rod riveted onto the guide near the adjustment screw tab. So, I cut the one off of my original guide, filed down a small burr that was right at the end of the guide, polished the guide and put it back on. Oh, ho--a little more adjustment is available with that rod gone! I had to raise the tip of the upper right flipper to make use of that adjustment, but now auto launch is at 100%--and it has never been that good. The only neg to raising the flipper a smidge is that the ball will not loop all the way around to the lower right flipper, but I can live with that. Another plus is the loop shot is way easier to hit with this new alignment--so I like that a lot.

That's pretty big, I think I took my burr off with a fine jewelers file, then used Blitz to polish it..

Cool, glad it helped. Make sure there are not any burrs on the very end of the guide, and watch carefully to see that the auto-launched ball is not just barely hitting the tip of the upper flipper. Then polish the heck out of the ramp and wax the lane. Hopefully this will give you another 10%. If your misses miss high, that indicates you may be able to bring down the end of the guide just a touch. None of my missed launches go high--they will just touch the post.

You are right about that, once you get it close almost nothing but bad things can happen if you keep playing with the guide. Adjusting the coil power is a good idea--that really helps (I'm guessing you have done the more powerful coil mod--the last piece of the puzzle). Just remember where you started from in case the adjustments make things worse.