(Topic ID: 217498)

Iron Maiden issues

By rvdv

5 years ago


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  • 2,495 posts
  • 364 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 months ago by Skinner
  • Topic is favorited by 157 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

11 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #96 sarcophagus switch fix. Posted by DG_Amuse (5 years ago)

Post #434 Black t-moulding pictured to replace stock banana yellow. Posted by Strummy (5 years ago)

Post #597 Stern fix for Newton Ball issues on LE Posted by Fytr (5 years ago)

Post #887 Fix for fast balls not registering on upper loop Posted by PinNin (5 years ago)

Post #1039 Picture of factory fix for bad mummy newton ball on Prem/LE Posted by RA77 (5 years ago)

Post #1343 Fix for fast balls leaving wireforms Posted by Kevlar (5 years ago)

Post #1452 Shim method to get auto launch to work nearly 100% Posted by hank35 (5 years ago)

Post #1713 TECH: PLAYFIELD. Fix auto launch consistency with stronger coil Posted by NeilMcRae (5 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#1327 5 years ago

No. The washer goes under the end of the guide near the right upper flipper. There is a screw that holds it down and the hole in the guide is ovalled so you can adjust it. He is saying that without the washer, the screw is torquing the guide wrong. The washer alleviates this problem and makes it straight.

#1335 5 years ago
Quoted from Kevlar:

New pro owner here, 27 pages is a lot of reading, can someone point me in the right direction to fix balls flying off the left wireform? pretty sure its not reaching the end of the wireform, flying off on one of the bends. Is there a way to slow the ball down?

Mine does it as well, but only when it's a clean shot up the ramp really fast. Saw someone on here but foam on the bottom crossbars of the wire forms to slow it down. On a side not, I was starting to have a problem with both my manual and auto launch hitting the lower post 90 % of the time. Did the washer fix under the guide screw and now it works like a charm 100% of the time now.

#1337 5 years ago

I'll have to give them a call and see what they say. Also wanted to give X-Rug big props for figuring out the washer under the guide fix for the shooter lane. Works for me 100%.

#1342 5 years ago

That is exactly how it goes. I did it on mine and now it's like 100% every time. The only time it doesn't go through the loop is when I wimp out and don't plunge hard enough.

#1353 5 years ago

Yes it is a PITA. And the bummer is it's the only one that doesn't screw in from underneath, they stapled it in place so you can't get to it from the back side.

#1387 5 years ago

Wish I would have known that. Mine kept moving on GOTG Pro, so I ended up drilling a second hole and putting another screw in to hold it in place

1 month later
#1555 5 years ago
Quoted from Mancave:

I have more trouble with the manual plunge, the auto plunge works 9 times out of 10 from factory.

I was starting to have the same problem. Took a look today and the rubber tip on the plunger wasn't straight. It was a little crooked and would not hit the ball dead center all the time. Adjusted the rubber tip to be straight, and now it works again.

#1577 5 years ago

I think every machine is different. On my pro, I tried the shim fix figuring it would keep the guide in place and not let it move, but it actually made it worse. It would not fire correctly 100% of the time. Took the shim out and did the washer fix. Put the washer under the end of the shooter guide where the screw is, I actually put 2 washers there, and now it works 99%. Manual was shooting off, but it was because of where the rubber tip was hitting the ball. Adjusted that to hit center, and now it works 100%.

#1582 5 years ago
Quoted from x-rug-x:

My fix to making the loop consistently
Like many, perhaps all users, my pin was able to make the loop 100% out of the box with both the auto-launch and the manual. Then mysteriously over time (about 4 weeks) the auto-launch would miss 1/20,1/10 and eventually 19/20, but for whatever reason manual would still work. It was consistently hitting the post right below the loop (low). I was sure the auto-launch mech was to blame and I focused on that. I eventually made it so both the auto-launch and the manual would hit low (but I never touched the manual launch). but as it turns out the auto-launch wasn't the problem.
I saw other guides that mentioned bending the right-side guide rail to solve this problem, but I really didn't want to do that (I didn't like the idea of bending something that didn't seem like it needed bending). Plus, it seemed like this solution was susceptible to wax, cleanings, or even strange looks. Regardless, after exhausting all possible adjustments to the manual/auto-launch mech, I started down the bending the guide path. What I noticed was that as I removed the end screw the guide, the end lifted up and became more vertical (closer to perpendicular to the playfield). I tried a shot with the rail in this position, made the loop instantly. Tried a few more. Perfect, just like day 1. I found a washer that was the size of the gap and tightened it down. It hasn't missed a shot yet. The guide is not 100% perpendicular, but it is the natural position the rail wants to be in as opposed to being torqued down.
Simulated view looking at the far end of the right-side rail.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
This might require re-adjustment too over time, it's too early to tell. Good luck, and let me know if this works for anyone else!

Here is the washer mod

#1587 5 years ago

Just click on the quoted section and it will take you right to the post.

#1610 5 years ago
Quoted from bowz:

And on this topic, does anybody seem to have a much more difficult time getting their playfield to fit in those grooves than usual? I have to literally shove the whole damn playfield forward and try and squeeze the forks into those grooves.
Never had an issue like that before with any other games.

My pro does the same thing. Pretty tight fit. The good thing is it fits in tight and don't have to worry about it being shifted one way or another to be misaligned with the plunger

1 week later
#1651 5 years ago
Quoted from MJW:

Works great on this game. Wish old SAM systems had that adjustment. Somebody was selling a kit for awhile that would dim backbox lighting as soon as game started.

I bought one 2 of those kits for both SM and GB. They work great. Sold by Arcade Upkeep and only $65.00. I actually got them for $45.00 during their black Friday sale. Even normal price is a good deal.

3 weeks later
#1733 5 years ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Hey guys, I bought this kit and the installation doesn't look right to me (2 photos below).
The plastic seems to be covering half the opto...doesn't make sense to me. Is this how yours looked?
Any help would be appreciated. If the designer of this mod is on this thread, please help us understand the rationale of this mod...
Thanks![quoted image][quoted image]

That's how mine looked when I installed it and thought it weird it covered the opto's like that, but have had no problems and registers every time. Don't know the science behind it, just know it works.

#1743 5 years ago

My manual plunge works like 100% of the time, though I do short plunge almost all the time to try and get the secret skill shots. My auto launch works 90% of the time. The 10% it doesn't work seems to be when it auto launches a bunch for ball save on a multi ball. It's like the more it launches, the coil heats up and maybe gets weak because after I play for awhile it goes back to working since the coil has time to cool down. I might have to try the more powerful coil I've read about and see if that fixes the problem.

#1751 5 years ago

Stupid question here, but I take it that you just cut the wires for the diode and removed it?

#1758 5 years ago

What about the diode that comes on the solenoid? Saw it said to remove it. Just cut the wires to it I take it?

4 months later
#1984 4 years ago

My ball launch has been pretty much 100%. Lately it hits the post sleeve about 5-10% of the time. Looked and noticed that the end of the guide was dinged a little, so figured this was the problem and went to take it off to file it smooth again. Low and behold when I took it off, I noticed the anchor stud that is riveted on to it was broken. That might cause an issue. Emailed Stern and waiting to hear back. Here are a couple picks of it. One with the rough edge and one with the broken piece. Kinda weird.

IMG_0222 (resized).jpgIMG_0222 (resized).jpgIMG_0223 (resized).jpgIMG_0223 (resized).jpg
1 month later
#2045 4 years ago
Quoted from Shapeshifter:

Minor issue.
Bulb on outlanes keeps flickering. Tried about 5 different bulbs.
Looked under the flipper and can't see a loose wire.
Bulb holder does twist, so does this mean it's faulty?
Repair or replace?
Can't see what bulb holder to buy if necessary?
Maybe this one?
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/077-5000-00
Thanks

I have the same issue with my pro. I put a tiny piece of electrical tape on the bulb to make it sit tight in the holder. That seems to work for quite awhile, but every now and then it starts to flicker again and I have to take the bulb out and reset it in and it's fine again. Must be something with the vibration of the flippers. If there is a more permanent fix, I would sure like to hear it.

#2048 4 years ago
Quoted from Tranquilize:

Looks like the sides of the socket might not be grounding the bulb. If tape is working, just use pliers to gently squeeze the socket so that the bulb will fit tight.
I'm not sure on newer sterns, but on older machines this also happens when the spring inside the socket becomes corroded or compressed. Seeing that it's a new socket, the spring probably didn't have the right specs out of the Chinese factory. What I would do in this case is remove the socket (no need to disconnect wiring) and use needle nose pliers to pull the spring in order to add more compression. Be careful not to pull it too hard or you'll pop it out of the socket.

Thanks for the tip. I'll give that a try. One of the bulbs on the left out lane goes out and turns back on when I hit the flipper button. Starting to piss me off.

#2049 4 years ago

Squeezed the socket together a little, but didn't even think about stretching the spring a little. That did the trick. Thanks for the advice. Now I can keep my sanity.

2 months later
#2164 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Marco's out of stock, too. I followed up and posted two places that have it in stock. BAA is much cheaper, but you need to add the diode to that one.

If I remember correctly, you had to cut the diode off that came on the new stronger coil.

3 months later
#2216 4 years ago
Quoted from Thunder90:

Thanks. I did this with electrical tape on my Grand Prix that had some loose sockets. Just wondering if there was a better fix than that for sterns. Sounds like this is the ticket! I'll give it a shot

I used to have flicker problems on the outlanes as well. I did the tape trick which worked for awhile, but then it would start happening again. Read somewhere about getting pliers and crushing in the socket a little and then grabbing the spring inside and stretching it up carefully to make it a little longer so it would make a good contact with the bulb. Did that and haven't had a problem since.

1 month later
#2240 4 years ago
Quoted from 85vett:

OK, I'm at my wits end right now with my auto launcher. I've worked on it for HOURS now in my spare time since we are locked indoors. Absolutely nothing I'm doing is making a difference. It still hits the post just to the bottom of the upper orbit. Here is what I've done,
- Changed the coil and tried all strengths from as low as 150 to as high as it's max setting. Zero change in game play. In test, it will work about 40% of the time.
- Push the end of the rail of the shooter lane in and out. Zero change.
- Started thinking the ball may have been hitting the tip of the flipper so move it out of the way completely. No Change
- Thinking the diverter gate could be causing and issue. - No change
- Noticed the ball launching to the left at the start which was sometimes hitting the end of the guide between the outlane and shooter lane. - No change
- Adjusted pitch of game from as low as 6.5 to as high as 7.2 - No change
- Made sure game was level - No change
Here is the kicker. A full pull (orange spring) of my plunger does the same thing. But a weak pull will go into the orbit 80% of the time. So it is better.
It seems like the guide is not allowing the ball to go high enough in the game but I've maxed out the movement in the guide without taking it off and drilling out the hole a little bit. If I need to do that, how do you remove it? There is a screw at the end and a bolt that goes through the PF in the middle but the part on the shooter lane by the launch mech looks glued on.
Please, I'm begging you for help at this point as it's making me hate this game now as the ball has started to hit that post, go out of control and drain a lot now. Starting to feel as bad as the Star Wars launcher with drains.

Sounds like you have the same guide rail as me. I put a washer under the guide at the screw on the end by the play field. It seems like some guide rails would flex when tightened down and cause problems. Once I did this, it shot true 99% of the time. On mine, I know if the coil strength is to high, it will bounce off the post. Kinda counter intuitive, but I guess the ball bounces off the rail instead of follow it. But then, the post that goes through the play field broke on mine, so I got some plastic wedges and crammed one between the guide and side rail, and put another one between the end of the guide and the post that is right there so the rail wouldn't deflect. They are shepherd plastic shims #9435 you can get from Amazon or a hardware store.

#2248 4 years ago
Quoted from 85vett:

Thanks Supersquid. I will give that a try.
Billy16 - Do you mind taking a picture of what you did? I may try that as well.

Also, when you clean and wax the play field, it will shoot off and you have to reduce the coil strength. As you play more, you have to raise it a little. It's a little finicky.

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