Honestly, I’d be going back up in pitch (7.2-7.5 range) making sure its level, and focus more on the coil power/settings.
(Don’t get me wrong though, the adjustments to the actual mech is certainly important...)
I lowered the trough eject to almost the bare minimum so it can center the ball and diffuse the wall rattle faster during multiball starts.

Software, adjustments (wrench icon) in the game settings (Eddie’s face) menu.
Feature #73 for trough eject, #74 for auto plunge.

Coil pulse power is on the S.P.I. Standard adjustments page (Pinball icon) #44.

Adjust these to see if it helps your autolaunch issue.
You might have to go up or down based on you location’s line voltage.
These adjustments in conjunction with the mechanical tweaks of the lane and mech should get you where you need to be.

Which is autolaunch shredding on Iron Maiden!!!

*sigh*
A5B933D9-0B0F-40FE-8A39-0D5A830D2E6A (resized).jpeg

You’re plunging too harrrrd.

If you prefer a “full bodied” plunge, go with a slightly softer spring. Otherwise you’ll keep on bricking if you don’t dial it back on the pull.

Lest we forget,
Skill shots are to be earned, not freely given.

No and yes.
It can go for the full loop if you’re at 85% of the plunge on the orange spring but it’s all about that FEEL.
Full plunge usually bricks on mine but, there’s so many variables at play that could easily improve/change that statement.
Like I said, change springs if you prefer the full plunge, otherwise, practice (on the stock orange) makes perfect.

For Trooper multiball start, yes. 100%.
For random ball saves during mutilball it’s 95%.
It all has to do with the ball settling in before the launch occurs (ala Trooper ball loading) to make the autolauncher work as it should.
I bent those two forks six-ways-till-Sunday to get a consistent launch but so far it’s been fine with my last adjustment.
But, yeah.
I had everything from airball launches to super rattley dribblers, to medium post bricks with each tweak I did. Once I started figuring out where the consistent sweet spot was for my particular autolauncher, I then turned to the coil settings and fine tuned the rest with pitch and level.

Seems like a lot of time spent but it was probably only 25 minutes.

I spent more time dremel polishing the cheap-ass 360 Newton centering/resting plates and hex nub that sits on the spoon to get the smoothest action I could out of what Stern spec’d for the game. That, and adjusting/replacing switches.

Now that it’s in the rearview, I can relax, drink a few Troopers and wait for my dark blue T-molding (hold the mustard Gary ) and Flipper Fidelity kit to show up in the mail to call this game officially, “dialed.”

On my premium it was the stock spring. Build date was May 30th.

13/16 ShOuLd be the correct molding for these newer mostly metal Stern BBs.
3/4 was the right choice for the older “full wood” generation Stern heads.

Oh, I wood...I most certainly wood.

Dark blue should compliment the dark blue stripes on the side of the head as well as the cab.

Why they decided to go full on French’s mustard yellow instead of this blue (or black even) for the premium, I have no f*<king idea.
63A153B9-501D-442D-86E2-CF45969A83E3 (resized).jpegAD352B17-9B5B-4CBF-9942-814EAC6164A2 (resized).jpeg

Don’t forget replacing the crap factory speakers too!

Honestly Vino, it’s just going to be a game that you’ll have to babysit from time to time.
Especially with those 360 newtons.

Fytr pretty much summed up the usual Maiden LE/Prem maintenance in a nutshell with two posts 12 hours apart.
All right! Orb is good!
Oh noes! Orb is not good!

The proof is in the pudding.
Here’s the 3/4... (note the exposed wood AND black touch ups you’d need to do. )
FCD2AE31-3656-45CA-85F0-745723628C8C (resized).jpeg
And here’s the correct 13/16... ( no wood exposed and no overhang.)
2E3B0F3D-A019-4FC9-9998-2569A2828610 (resized).jpeg

Here is the link to order:

https://www.t-molding.com/13-16in-blue-t-molding.html

To be fair to Hoby1,
Stern seems to use a different brand molding than the T-Molding.com variety.
The stock yellow stuff also had more of a matte finish and has slightly different pliability. (Seemed thinner.)
Stern’s 13/16 did indeed hang a bit more over the edge compared to this blue so I could see why most people would think to go with the 3/4 instead.
Hope these pics help empower folks to try different t-moldings on their newer Stern heads to colors that might suit what they’d want to do with possible armor powder coating down the road.
Have fun guys!

The blue is darker in person and doesn’t really detract from the art when it’s all lit up, but I can see black being the most popular option.
Red was out for me because I have SW pro sitting right next to it.
Chrome or gold would look too gaudy.
I went with what I though looked the best for the cab art and my armor won’t be black for too much longer anyway.
Plus,
It’s a really dark gameroom to begin with so the dark blue already looks pretty black when the lights are all off.

The reason why I added these posts to the issues thread Ice is because it was an “issue” to me that Stern chose a condiment trim to represent Iron effing Maiden in the first damn place.

Also, I think we’ve finally run out of things to fix on Maiden. Great job early adopters!

Short answer: No.

Long answer: Once you get familiar with the well documented premium fixes in this Maiden issues thread, those issues (you may or may not have,) will all melt away once you have your premium purring with all that extra KM(F!)E “Kinetic Satisfaction.”

Plus, it’s late enough now that if you ordered a premium today, you’ll most likely get a game that already has the new pointy hex posts with a dab of loctite for the 360 newtons and a properly adjusted/replaced upper switch for the sarcophagus.

My premium’s been playing swish this whole time once the initial fixes went in.
Don’t let your “fear of the dark” or, in this case “mad-basic-pin-tech-skillz”, hold you back on buying one of the greatest playing Sterns in modern history.

Man,
You’re really going to be bummed out to find that you should’ve soldered the new roller switch to replace the UPPER one, (by your fingers) and NOT the lower one...
Like so:
4B916C51-BB98-46A4-8C62-0243D998CC35 (resized).jpeg
The stock lower one works fine for the most part.

On the bright side, you can always adjust that stock flat upper switch when the sarcophagus is in the up position and completely assembled in game, if you don’t want to try a second attemp.

It wasn’t the bottom switch.
The new flat upper switch is the culprit.
For some reason, they switched the switch after the first run of LE to what you and I have which is a flat switch instead of an angled switch that matched the lower one. (See Stern LE promo video to see what I mean...)
The flat upper switch needs more of a bow form to register the entrance rollover and eject/launch correctly. When the sarcophagus is flat, the switch will of course register fine. In the up position however...no dice!
The rollover switch in Russel’s above pic is the correct use of the roller.

Not saying you can’t use two rollers to solve your problem but, in my premium and others from the first run batches the lower switch was “usually” registering 100% AND the better choice for the captured ball to sit flush against the newton.

Like I said, you can manually make a bow in the flat one and re-adjust the switch after the tweak all in game without taking the mech apart again if the sarcophagus is in the up position.
Just listen closely to the click of the microswitch after using your leaf adjustment tool, to get a nice+sensitive response.
Otherwise you’ll end up with premature end game drains again.

Also,
Don’t forget to call for your free pointy hex posts for the 360 newtons while you have the hood open.

Yes. You are correct. My roller replacement is on the upper. (Like Russel’s)
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/iron-maiden-issues/page/6#post-4434059

I’m pretty sure I’m typing in English, unless I’m super drunk and I don’t know it?

The new flat upper switch is/was the culprit on the premium. Too shallow to register the entrance and final launch hit.
If you look at your pic of DG’s upper switch, it is the earlier LE version/switch I was talking about. Different shape. More angled; matches the old lower one.

Either way DG said he replaced BOTH switches with rollers in the end so.........just do whatcha gotta do DML to get your game running 100%
Always make sure you’re not over torquing your black switch screws to the point where they are limiting the functionality of the switch.

Sacrifice a chicken if need be, or just call Stern to get a replacement mech so your wiring length can go back to factory tolerances if you don’t want to splice in new wire so you can try again.

It’s a flasher SB, not regular GI like the other two.
Your game is working just fine.

Eat a banana and use a longer allen wrench.
You can DO it!