Software, adjustments (wrench icon) in the game settings (Eddie’s face) menu.
Feature #73 for trough eject, #74 for auto plunge.

Coil pulse power is on the S.P.I. Standard adjustments page (Pinball icon) #44.

Adjust these to see if it helps your autolaunch issue.
You might have to go up or down based on you location’s line voltage.
These adjustments in conjunction with the mechanical tweaks of the lane and mech should get you where you need to be.

Which is autolaunch shredding on Iron Maiden!!!

There's a setting in the adjustments menu.

*sigh*
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Auto-plunge working most of the time now, but of course as I expected, the manual plunger is off. A full manual plunge will always hit the post.

Couldn't tell you if this Iron Maiden Pinball game is any good, but this Finicky Shooter Lane game succccks

(I kid I kid, but yeah...)

You’re plunging too harrrrd.

If you prefer a “full bodied” plunge, go with a slightly softer spring. Otherwise you’ll keep on bricking if you don’t dial it back on the pull.

Lest we forget,
Skill shots are to be earned, not freely given.

Isn't it designed for a full plunge to go all the way around outer loop? Or am I wrong? If I'm wrong and a full plunge is supposed to hit the post, then you've saved me a ton of time

No and yes.
It can go for the full loop if you’re at 85% of the plunge on the orange spring but it’s all about that FEEL.
Full plunge usually bricks on mine but, there’s so many variables at play that could easily improve/change that statement.
Like I said, change springs if you prefer the full plunge, otherwise, practice (on the stock orange) makes perfect.

Did they change the stock springs to orange now? My early run Pro came with a green spring which I later upgraded to a stronger orange. The orange one is the perfect strength in my game. Green was way too weak. I had a purple in there for a while and it was too strong.

First thing I did was change the spring to orange, but it made the skill shot harder to finesse, so I went back to factory green.

Thanks for the help, just curious is your auto-plunge going around the loop 100 percent of the time? Mine is still inconsistent.

For Trooper multiball start, yes. 100%.
For random ball saves during mutilball it’s 95%.
It all has to do with the ball settling in before the launch occurs (ala Trooper ball loading) to make the autolauncher work as it should.
I bent those two forks six-ways-till-Sunday to get a consistent launch but so far it’s been fine with my last adjustment.
But, yeah.
I had everything from airball launches to super rattley dribblers, to medium post bricks with each tweak I did. Once I started figuring out where the consistent sweet spot was for my particular autolauncher, I then turned to the coil settings and fine tuned the rest with pitch and level.

Seems like a lot of time spent but it was probably only 25 minutes.

I spent more time dremel polishing the cheap-ass 360 Newton centering/resting plates and hex nub that sits on the spoon to get the smoothest action I could out of what Stern spec’d for the game. That, and adjusting/replacing switches.

Now that it’s in the rearview, I can relax, drink a few Troopers and wait for my dark blue T-molding (hold the mustard Gary ) and Flipper Fidelity kit to show up in the mail to call this game officially, “dialed.”

On my premium it was the stock spring. Build date was May 30th.

Noticed "Mummy" wasn't doing anything anymore, which is about the only thing I am halfway good at. Thanks to all the posts here it was easy to figure out what was going on and to fix it. I have a feeling the newton ball mechs are going to be adjusted a lot...

Yep

I have to say that after extending my captive ball posts by unscrewing them a few turns and locktighting them at that location my captive balls have been working 100%.

...though not a day goes by where I’m not a little surprised that they still do.

I still can't get the lock drop target to stay up. I tested the coil and indeed, it doesn't stay up when I trigger the coil. So I adjusted the plate screws so that the plate rests at a higher position, and that seemed to do the trick. I tested the coil like 20 times in test mode and it was good. Then I went to play a game, and after a couple balls it started doing it again. Any suggestions on how to adjust the drop target so it stays up? I didn't really see much to adjust on that mech besides the plate.

Where did you order the T molding from?

Thats funny.... I just order dark blue T molding and leg protectors also.

https://www.t-molding.com/t-molding-by-color.html

Whether Stern changed the spring from green to orange, or installed green ones by mistake, hard to say. Stern has an orange spring specified in the manual. Right now I count four different skill shots off of the plunge. A super skill at the top of the loop dropping down to the upper left flipper, hitting the stand up target, normal skill shot at the extra ball\x multiplier stand up target, super secret out the left outlane, another super secret by shatzing the stand up target at the top of the left inlane with the right flipper, pretty cool.

Thanks

What size t molding are you guys ordering?

i did 3/4 but on this game it seems closer 13/16. Either way you will never notice that 1/32 on each side difference.

Haha I totally jinxed myself writing that! The very next game I played my sarcophagus captive ball started registering a hit when the flipper was pressed to select a song.

Funny thing is that after that no more hits are registered from other coil activity that I can tell, you’d think the flipper would keep doing it? Anyway, time to widen the gap a literal hair.

13/16 ShOuLd be the correct molding for these newer mostly metal Stern BBs.
3/4 was the right choice for the older “full wood” generation Stern heads.

Oh, I wood...I most certainly wood.

Dark blue should compliment the dark blue stripes on the side of the head as well as the cab.

Why they decided to go full on French’s mustard yellow instead of this blue (or black even) for the premium, I have no f*<king idea.
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I’m not reading major parts replacement, just frustration tweaking of the newton targets and sarcophagus lock. Otherwise, happy pinheads considering mods or t molding?

Am I correct or way off?

Don’t forget replacing the crap factory speakers too!

Honestly Vino, it’s just going to be a game that you’ll have to babysit from time to time.
Especially with those 360 newtons.

Fytr pretty much summed up the usual Maiden LE/Prem maintenance in a nutshell with two posts 12 hours apart.
All right! Orb is good!
Oh noes! Orb is not good!

Yes just tweaking. It's annoying but it's all do-able. I've had to tweak my orb sensor and manual/auto-plunge a ton over the past four days. Got it dialed in last night for the entire night. Was playing perfectly. Fully expect something to not be right again today... but who knows? Good news is it's all do-able and most of the stuff you could honestly ignore if you're not a perfectionist.

So how is the sarcophagus supposed to work on a premium after a ball gets locked? Is it supposed to get released during game play?

Spell mummy to open the tomb. Shoot the left ramp to lock a ball in the sarcophagus. Then spell mummy again. Then hit the sarcophagus to free the ball and starts mummy mulitball.

You literally knock the ball out of the sarcophagus from the captive ball hit. It's very cool.

Can someone verify the wiring for the upper left opto. Mine's missing switch hits, and I've heard the it might be mounted backwards. Does yours look the same as mine?

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Oooooooooh I think you may be mistaken on that. The 3/4 would fit correctly. The factory 13/16 is a 32 too big and has overlap. It may be factory with 13/16 but it has a very sloppy look to it IMO you can feel and see from a distance the excess overhang 3/4 on ST with no overhang in pic

Here’s a pic , see for yourself
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I just put clear lexan washers under the slingshot plastics and noticed the left wire form ramp needs to pe pushed down about 1 3/8 inch to install it. Seams a bit weird, ramps usually seam to fit better.

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Yep ..... mine is the same. Your fine

The proof is in the pudding.
Here’s the 3/4... (note the exposed wood AND black touch ups you’d need to do. )
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And here’s the correct 13/16... ( no wood exposed and no overhang.)
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Here is the link to order:

https://www.t-molding.com/13-16in-blue-t-molding.html

To be fair to Hoby1,
Stern seems to use a different brand molding than the T-Molding.com variety.
The stock yellow stuff also had more of a matte finish and has slightly different pliability. (Seemed thinner.)
Stern’s 13/16 did indeed hang a bit more over the edge compared to this blue so I could see why most people would think to go with the 3/4 instead.
Hope these pics help empower folks to try different t-moldings on their newer Stern heads to colors that might suit what they’d want to do with possible armor powder coating down the road.
Have fun guys!

That is really cool. Thanks.

I'll probably jinx myself by saying this but my game has needed very little adjusting. I had to adjust the orb switch and reseat the trough opto boards.

Right. I feel pretty lucky to not have any skill shot issues, but, it's just a matter of time. Nice to have all this info readily available for when. Sorry you guys are experiencing those, but the solutions are greatly appreciated.

Ok...I feel pretty dumb asking this; but I have glass off trying to figure shots out. Is the sarcophagus lock meant to ONLY hold one ball for Mummy captive ball? Is there ever a time more than one ball would be loaded into that lock? Been trying to duplicate a 2nd ball locked and haven't been able to, although I coulda sworn I locked 2 balls one time (and 3 locked was the goal).
Have I been mistakenly thinking there is a 3 ball lock in the sarcophagus?
If my dumb questions help anyone else, they are worth asking.

What are the skill shot issues? I'm still learning the game and I'm sure of whats right or wrong. There is so much happening in this game. Its a great freakin game!

I believe Keith said it can physically hold 2 or 3 balls, but currently is only coded to hold one.

Fwiw, I have never felt compelled enough to ever take glass off of any machine and figure shit out. This one is pure fucking magic though.

Thanks man...that was answer I was lookin for.

Mummy Multiball is 2 ball (the ball in play and the one you knock out of the sarcophagus. It can become 3-ball with add-a-ball when you complete the left and right ramps once each.

No comparison. Stern should change over to the blue ASAP on the factory line. The yellow is atrocious.

Now if they could only re-do the drum major leading the parade on the translite to something more sinister looking...

Right. But is that all (for now) with sarcophagus lock? Ffs I been all up-in-arms about nothin.
Also...my neighbors band really sucks. Tryin to drown them out with Autopsy. So far it's workin what?

I don't think blue or yellow is really an "issue". Neither one of them look good.

Given how fussy that mech is on the Prem/LE, I can't see them loading 2 balls in there. It works fine the way it is, and works better on the pro, IMO. I bet they keep it the way it is.

What?

First 2 Autopsy albums feckin rule.
My neighbors band sucks from 3 acres away. Between the two of us that's a lot of wilted acreage.

Figured out my opto issue. Ignore this post and the next one.

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