Check the switch back there using the switch test diagnostics. Might need a slight adjustment or something.

I think I have a opto issue with the large loop. Can someone verify proper scoring? When I ride the loop repeatedly super fast, my loop count only goes up about half of the loops I score, and the score lights often do not raise as I think they are supposed to. When I push the ball around the loop slowly, the scores go up with each loop. The physical switch on the right is fine, but the left opto seems to miss occasionally when I'm in switch mode. Any one have any experience adjusting the newer stern optos?

Is there an adjustment? Optos usually work or they don't, unless the electronics are flaky or the beam is partially obscured by the installation.

the sarcophagus lock is only meant to hold one ball right? Even during sarcophagus multiball? Think I’m at 100% here and just want to make sure lol.

Had to adjust that switch myself too. Mine did the same thing. Unscrew the White plastic in the back and you'll see that switch there, mine was too low to register. Easy tweak

Here's a good summary from Fytr as to how it should work:

"So at game start you hit the sarcophagus captive ball twice to open the tomb. Sarcophagus raises up to accept a ball.

Shoot left ramp to load the ball into the sarcophagus lock. Sarcophagus lowers to flat again, with locked ball immediately behind the captive ball.

Hitting captive ball now will cause the locked ball to roll back to the end of the sarcophagus trough and hit the switch, which registers your hit of the sarcophagus (grants a mummy letter).

If you open the tomb door again the sarcophagus stays flat as it can only hold one ball. The next ball will roll off the top of it and down to the upper left flipper.

During Mummy multiball (i think) the sarcophagus will lower to dump the locked ball into the underworld scoop which shoots it out.

Also during another multiball (Trooper?) the sarcophagus will raise up a bit and if you hit it the locked ball will be knocked out and into play (add a ball). "

Can anyone confirm, mine doesn't seem to empty the sarcophagus when game ends. I typically have to start anew game and wait for a ball search to clear it out.

I usually have to give it like 10 seconds for it to spit the ball out at the end of the game. If I do a fast restart after a shitty first ball (ug, terrible habit I’m trying to break) the ball just stays in the lock.

In the new game the ball goes in to the tomb and simply falls over the mech to the upper left flipper, and registers as a lock. Sounds like a switch issue in the sarcophagus if it’s going into ball search.

Yes, cabinet setting are not a chore, I have 4 Ohs..at the speaker which means there is power but producing a hum with squealing goes back to a issue with the CPU.

Okay.... So my game worked well for about 4-5 hours one day... And then probably 3 hours the next day as well. But, now I'm having the underworld ramp stick up quite frequently... I was happy as I was able to fix the issue myself. And then I was able to play for about 30 minutes... And then it happened again... So I fixed it again. It's just a little bit of the unit getting stuck and caught on another mech. Don't know the specifics.. But, I know a lot of you are having this issue as I read this entire thread.
So now its sticking after only a few minutes of gameplay... Should I try the 3 in one oil thing and lube it up???? Did that work for anyone else???
Should I contact stern and get a new mech... Don't know how easy it is to swap it out... But, I can try...
I can't try the one advice of bending the piece as I don't have a vice or any of the tools to do it.
And I do have trouble with the captive balls or orbs... They don't always register... But, they do for the most part... Its just frustrating when you get a nice clean strong hit and it doesn't register. But, for the most part they work fine... I might tweak those later... But, I am more worried about getting my ramp fixed.

Also... I have some small scratches on my translite near the top of it... Not a big deal... But, I did pay a lot of money for this machine. Should I try to get that replaced???? I mean. You wouldn't buy a new car with a scratch. Why should I settle for one on my translite...

But, I am more interested in hearing the thoughts on the underworld ramp. Any suggestions for pointers would be welcome.

Using flammable spray on a pinball machine is a good way to start a fire.
http://www.gcelectronics.com/order/msds/166.pdf

Then don't use it . De-OX-ID is formulated to clean & protect (All Electronic) contacts ,switches ,relays, potentiometers, as well as other (Electronic components). It is "stated"on the product "label"and is made for (Electronic components) . De-OX-ID is also Compatible with plastics and contains no silicone .DE-OX-ID may be purchased from GC electronics.And is manufacture by GC Electronics. It is an excellent pinball switch actuator contact cleaner.DE-OX-ID may be used as a potential"remedy" to some of "Iron Maiden" switch issues.

I was referring to positioning. I’ve worked with quite a few optos, but these are really far back from the holes in the quite rails... seems like a bad design to me.

The lube will take 1 min to apply, so it won’t hurt to try...

Ferrite Beads : It is a "long shot" .More likely a cold solder joint or opto board or soft ware issue if wide spread in many "Iron Maiden" But I always keep some clip-on ferrite beads in my tool box for trouble some opto's . STLE needed many.
A ferrite bead or ferrite choke is a passive electric component that suppresses high frequency noise in electronic circuits. It is a specific type of electronic choke. Ferrite beads employ high frequency current dissipation in a ferrite ceramic to build high frequency noise suppression devices.
Helps reduce EMI on AC power lines. Black plastic enclosed ferrite core for 5 mm AC power cords. Great for cutting noise on USB, firewire, phone, power cord, coaxial, audio, video cables, etc.
This rectangle ferrite Bead can be widely used in a variety of Data cables, USB cable, telephone line, network line to shield external electromagnetic interference.
Easy to install with double snap clips; Reduce electro-magnetic interference and improve signal integrity.
Easy structure and convenient installation. Just clip it on and you will get clearer signal and faster data transmission.
https://www.amazon.com/eBoot-Pieces-Ferrite-Suppressor-Diameter/dp/B01E5E5IY4/ref=br_lf_m_yfrvazvaeq9v4nz_ttl

This sounds like nasa equipment. I’ll have to look into them!

This wouldn’t work for me. I tried that before I realized it was the wireform itself. Either too wide at the bottom and it makes contact with the bar below or crossbar sits too high. Regardless it can’t be corrected by bending or shimming in my situation.

Confirmed.

I'm sure this will be addressed by a software update soon.

I think it’s finally working 100%!

I have tried every combination to get the sarcophagus lock working perfectly. Every time you tweak it, you have to fully remove and reinstall the whole mech. I ended up with a roller ball switch in the upper location facing upwards (roller ball toward the head), and a regular switch in the lower location facing down.

This combination seems to register all hits, including knocking the ball free. I just played a good game and had no missed switch hits on either captive ball, and no mis-counting issues.

I also got the launch working perfectly, both manually and upon auto-launch.

Let me know if I can be of assistance with any of these issues. I think I’ve done it, and I never called distributor or Stern. (yet)

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That is excellent news! Nice score too.

Mine is also working 100% as of last night. It will be interesting to see if the dang captive ball switches will stabilize now or need regular adjustment.

has anyone considered altering the tip of the hex shaft to make it more forgiving to the switch?

I would think narrowing the tip of the post would give you more movement before the switch is registered.. and would allow more alignment options.

Grinding it into a rounded tip cone... or even shortening it and adding some tip to it.

So ....... now that you u guys have prems are any of you owners regretting spending the extra $$$$ on it with all the ball lock and newton ball issues. I have to make a choice by Thursday so please lmk

Question for you guys, as I think mine is back to working at least 99%, after you lock the first ball into the Sarco lock it does take a certain amount of shots/switch hits before you can start getting the Mummy letters awarded on a captive hit?

Not sure what is activating it but it doesn't give you Letters right away upon hitting the captive ball after the lock?

When its active, before the lock and subsequently, it registers hits and awards letters every time so I know its not the switch, I think its just the rules of qualifying for the Letter availability.

When not in a mode, each hit equals one letter given.

Now, in certain modes, if not almost all of them - will not register a letter.

I think Icarus, hallowed, and fear allow it. Aces and rhyme are multiball and do not.

Interesting, it seems I have to start a mode first before I can start collecting letters, maybe after the mode ends?

It won’t register immediately after locking first ball any time. So you can start hitting captive ball right after lock and gets letters?

Sent Chas another message

I eventually get Mummy MB just takes longer

Thx KPG

I think anytime the MUMMY inserts are are lit solid white the captive ball won't register hits. So if you're not seeing a letter or the red insert at the top flashing then don't expect the switch to register.

Immediately after ball rolls into the lock I get red insert solid and letter M lit

Then I can’t figure out what makes it start to register at some point but it’s not right away

Does your red insert flash right away?

I agree. This happens to me intermittently as well. I can't figure out why.

Really? Maybe that’s how it’s supposed to work?

I’m confused.

Let’s see what reply I get back from Stern

Either way, Mummy MB hits eventually start

I do get an extra ball counted somehow at times when I stack a MB with a mode

Drains with one ball left and shoots out two ball into shooter lane after drain

Not often but that has to be a code bug I think

According to the rules wiki hosted on the tiltforums site (http://tiltforums.com/t/iron-maiden-pinball-rulesheet-wip/3787):

Mummy Multi-Ball

Shoot the Sarcophagus captive ball to spell MUMMY and light Mummy Lock. On the Pro this will be a virtual lock up the center ramp (and denoted by the green lock insert). On the Premium/LE, the lock is on the left ramp (and denoted by the arrow insert turning red). Spell MUMMY again at captive ball to immediately start Mummy Multi-Ball.

During Mummy MB, qualify jackpots at the captive ball via switch hits. Jackpot qualifications cannot be stacked, and the switch hit threshold increases for each jackpot. Each jackpot ball will spot a MUMMY letter. Spell MUMMY to light SJP at the Pharaoh Target (bulls-eye above Ctr Ramp). SJP value is multiplied for more accurate bulls-eye shot. For subsequent jackpot rounds, values are doubled, but MUMMY letters will be cycling, and hits to the captive ball will only score a JP when on an available letter.

After collecting the first Mummy jackpot, one Add-A-Ball is available by shooting the left ramp.

So you should be able to immediately keep hammering on the captive ball after locking to spell Mummy again?

I can't check until I get home.

I had that happening too. I'm pretty sure mine was caused by the captive ball hit switch not registering at the top/far end of the sarcophagus trough. So you'd release the locked ball and the game wouldn't sense it and would end your ball with a ball left in play when you got down to 1 ball left.

At least I haven't seen the problem since I replaced that switch.

The initial plunge slams into the far post instead of going around the orbit, but the auto plunge works perfectly. I have adjusted the plunger assembly which did not help. So, do I adjust the guide and risk screwing up the auto plunge? Thoughts?

Check to make sure the manual plunger is well aligned.

Makes perfect sense

Weird it takes a while but it has to be that top switch rollover

Got my new switches in so I’ll just replace those!

Thanks, I went back and re-aligned it one last time and that did it. However, now I lost my great auto launch, it usually hits the post--bummer.

I think this is right, I think mine stopped having this lock out period once I put in the upper roller ball switch.

Take off the plastics on the right, there is a little adjustment tab. It’s hard to adjust but even a slight change makes a big difference.

Right, you're just trying to get it closer to be like the tip of a pop bumper skirt, which the switch cup was designed for. Would probably do wonders no matter how achieved.

Just unboxed and booted up my IMDN Premium.....all insert lights lower than the drop targets do not work. Any ideas?

I tried checking every connection under playfield and in backbox. Can't find anything loose. Any ideas? Specific board I should check?

Does the wire form have to come off to get to the plastics?

Yes, remove the wireform.

If your auto plunger or auto plunger AND manual are off, adjust the ball launch metal guide as described above. If your manual plunge is off, make sure your plunger is centered both horizontally AND vertically on the ball as it rests.

Thanks. My auto was working perfectly until I got the manual to work by adjusting the housing vertically. Maybe I moved something on the auto mech when I did that--if it was working well before the guide has to be really close to being right.

Have you tried removing the washer on the outside of the shooter rod housing (by the small spring) to help with the manual plunge? This did the trick for me. Thanks hassellcastle

I did not get to that trick, a vertical adjustment fixed the issue. Somehow that fix goofed up the auto launch--wouldn't think that should have affected it.

I’m curious if you could undo that adjustment, remove the washer and see if that fixes your manual plunge and gets the auto back on track

It might work, but I'm at a loss as to what removing the washer would do mechanically? I thought it was just protection for the housing.

You dont need to remove the plastics. I just took off the right gate screw and loosened the left nut and slid it out of the way. Then I took off the nut under the wire form that secures the plastic. I then then lifted the plastic and slid it to toward the outside of the cab with the pf up on the rails. Be sure put some paper or something between the plastic and the post or you’ll scratch it. You can now get in there with a flathead. This saves a ton of b.s.

I have a feeling the IMDN "issues" page will go on for at least a 100 pages!

It's such an awesome pin I just really don't even care about the BS.

Is your auto plunger self-centering like it's supposed to? The other thing is if it's firing before the ball settles and is still on it. If your full plunge travels correctly 100% of the time I would think it would be one of the above two issues, or possibly another adjustment needed to the shooter lane guide.