(Topic ID: 217498)

Iron Maiden issues

By rvdv

5 years ago


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  • Latest reply 8 months ago by Skinner
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11 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 2,495 posts in this topic. You are on page 42 of 50.
#2051 4 years ago
Quoted from Kmoirkne:

Does anyone’s upper right flipper sound odd? It just started happening to me today. The flipper works fine but it has this odd bass sound that it is hitting something or dragging something yet I see nothing. Unless this it was like this from day one?

It's an echo of the flipper bracket that's too close to the cabinet wall. It makes a thunking sound. You can use stereo installer noise-deadening material on the back of the bracket to reduce it. It comes and goes, so it's nothing to worry about, just annoying.

#2052 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

It's an echo of the flipper bracket that's too close to the cabinet wall. It makes a thunking sound. You can use stereo installer noise-deadening material on the back of the bracket to reduce it. It comes and goes, so it's nothing to worry about, just annoying.

Thank you. This is only my second machine. Star Wars pro my first. I’m still learning. This was driving me nuts. I’m glad it’s nothing big.

#2053 4 years ago
Quoted from Kmoirkne:

Does anyone’s upper right flipper sound odd? It just started happening to me today. The flipper works fine but it has this odd bass sound that it is hitting something or dragging something yet I see nothing. Unless this it was like this from day one?

Commonly reported. Mine is the same. Pretty sure it's just that it's so close to the cab that the cab functions as a boom box. You can dampen it, but it's nothing out of the ordinary, unless someone else is reporting differently.

Edit: oops. Didn't read the replies

1 week later
#2054 4 years ago

My lamp issue came back. Hitting the left flipper would make many lamps go wrong.

There is (serial?) data that starts at a node board then chains to the aux lamp boards. The flipper hammering near the node board caused a connector issue. You cannot just reflow the solder on these node boards. The original lead free solder i could not get to form into a clean joint so I sucked off all the solder and put in new header pins at the suspect places. That resolved my issue. Oddly the header pins where kind of bent in odd directions from the factory which probably was not helping.

I need to find some anti vibration grommets or something to help resist vibration or more solder joints are going to get busted by the hammer effect of the flippers.

#2055 4 years ago

Just purchased a brand new IM Pro which was received yesterday. Today I noticed a small hole in the playfield by the bottom right flipper. The hole is towards the middle of the pinball in the Eddie hand. To me it looks like it was done by some sharp tool at the factory. This is my first machine so I am not sure what I should do. I assume this needs to be filled somehow? I was going to contact my distributor/stern to let them know of the situation. Realistically I'm not sure what to expect. I'm unconformable trying to fix this myself since I have zero experience in paint/playfield repair. My main concern is this might cause the clear coat to peel/bubble at some point.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Iron Maiden (resized).jpgIron Maiden (resized).jpg
#2056 4 years ago
Quoted from Vinnie:

Just purchased a brand new IM Pro which was received yesterday. Today I noticed a small hole in the playfield by the bottom right flipper. The hole is towards the middle of the pinball in the Eddie hand. To me it looks like it was done by some sharp tool at the factory. This is my first machine so I am not sure what I should do. I assume this needs to be filled somehow? I was going to contact my distributor/stern to let them know of the situation. Realistically I'm not sure what to expect. I'm unconformable trying to fix this myself since I have zero experience in paint/playfield repair. My main concern is this might cause the clear coat to peel/bubble at some point.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.[quoted image]

That hole is normal and supposed to be there. It is used for flipper alignment.

#2057 4 years ago
Quoted from pickleric:

That hole is normal and supposed to be there. It is used for flipper alignment.

Well I feel dumb lol.

Thank you!

#2058 4 years ago

Have a 1 yr old Maiden that i recently purchased as the 2nd owner, and i get an intermittent false ball drain. IE: you can be playing normally (typically single ball play) then the bonus countdown starts with the ball still in play. I have reseated the trough opto connectors, but it still happens occasionally - say 1 in 10 games. Any advice?

#2059 4 years ago
Quoted from robm:

Have a 1 yr old Maiden that i recently purchased as the 2nd owner, and i get an intermittent false ball drain. IE: you can be playing normally (typically single ball play) then the bonus countdown starts with the ball still in play. I have reseated the trough opto connectors, but it still happens occasionally - say 1 in 10 games. Any advice?

It's in your ball trough. Either a failing opto or bad solder, or bad connector. Try spreading the connector pins so they grab the connector when you slide it on better. Failing that, reflow solder, and if none of those, try to narrow down which opto is intermittent using switch test.

#2060 4 years ago
Quoted from robm:

Have a 1 yr old Maiden that i recently purchased as the 2nd owner, and i get an intermittent false ball drain. IE: you can be playing normally (typically single ball play) then the bonus countdown starts with the ball still in play. I have reseated the trough opto connectors, but it still happens occasionally - say 1 in 10 games. Any advice?

Agree with above.

Put it in switch test and see if any of the trough switches misbehave when you flip, bang the playfield, or just generally wiggle stuff associated with or nearby to the trough.

#2061 4 years ago

Had a few balls get stuck at back of playfield, so took a look and saw that mylar is bubbling and slows balls down and occasionally it sits there.

Anyone else had this?

Remove mylar?

For now just waxed all areas and hope additional ball speed will stop it for now.
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#2062 4 years ago
Quoted from Shapeshifter:

Had a few balls get stuck at back of playfield, so took a look and saw that mylar is bubbling and slows balls down and occasionally it sits there.
Anyone else had this?
Remove mylar?
For now just waxed all areas and hope additional ball speed will stop it for now.
[quoted image][quoted image]

I would suggest contacting Stern to get a new lane protector. I have a table built in June 2019 and it has a thicker silver type of protector not the clear Mylar like in your example.

IMG_2387 (resized).jpgIMG_2387 (resized).jpg
#2063 4 years ago

Oh, wow, that is a big change!

Will contact - thanks.

#2064 4 years ago

This is a new one for me. Does anyone have any tips for troubleshooting "missing" node boards?

I have tried reseating all of the connectors and visually checking out the related wiring.

MVIMG_20190817_233035 (resized).jpgMVIMG_20190817_233035 (resized).jpg
#2065 4 years ago
Quoted from Hougie:

This is a new one for me. Does anyone have any tips for troubleshooting "missing" node boards?
I have tried reseating all of the connectors and visually checking out the related wiring.[quoted image]

I believe Node 8 and 9 are the same type of board (coil/pf switch driver) on Iron Maiden except for the address dipswitches. Maybe try swapping them (and the dip switch address settings) and see if the problem travels?

You can make the board Node 8 by setting dip switches to all OFF. Node 9 is OFF OFF ON OFF.

#2066 4 years ago
Quoted from Hougie:

This is a new one for me. Does anyone have any tips for troubleshooting "missing" node boards?
I have tried reseating all of the connectors and visually checking out the related wiring.[quoted image]

This happened on my KISS after 200 plays and I needed a new node board to fix it. Highly likely you need a new board (which sucks, since they cost over $200 IIRC).

#2067 4 years ago
Quoted from snaroff:

This happened on my KISS after 200 plays and I needed a new node board to fix it. Highly likely you need a new board (which sucks, since they cost over $200 IIRC).

I guess what concerns me the most is what may have caused it to fail to begin with.

#2068 4 years ago
Quoted from Hougie:

I guess what concerns me the most is what may have caused it to fail to begin with.

For my KISS, I was told "The flaw is the trace on the board was too thin. It was failing under load".

When I received the "new" board (for ~$200), it had two "jumper" wires (that look awful). When I questioned if I received a "new" board, they claimed it was new, but still needed the 2 "jumper" wires! From my perspective, a $200 node board shouldn't require hacked jumpers, but WTF do I know!

Report back on what you find...

IMG_9939 (resized).jpgIMG_9939 (resized).jpgIMG_9941 (resized).jpgIMG_9941 (resized).jpg
#2069 4 years ago
Quoted from snaroff:

For my KISS, I was told "The flaw is the trace on the board was too thin. It was failing under load".
When I received the "new" board (for ~$200), it had two "jumper" wires (that look awful). When I questioned if I received a "new" board, they claimed it was new, but still needed the 2 "jumper" wires! From my perspective, a $200 node board shouldn't require hacked jumpers, but WTF do I know!
Report back on what you find...[quoted image][quoted image]

A> That's some nasty "professional" board work.
B> Was yours reporting "node not found" before you replaced it or some other symptom?

#2070 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

A> That's some nasty "professional" board work.
B> Was yours reporting "node not found" before you replaced it or some other symptom?

The precise message in the photo.

image (resized).pngimage (resized).png
#2071 4 years ago
Quoted from snaroff:

The precise message in the photo.[quoted image]

I wonder if "not initialized" is the older spike equivalent of "not found" on Spike 2...

#2072 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

I wonder if "not initialized" is the older spike equivalent of "not found" on Spike 2...

That's my assumption...I believe they are equivalent. My board was dead, so it couldn't be found and therefore couldn't be initialized.

#2073 4 years ago
Quoted from snaroff:

For my KISS, I was told "The flaw is the trace on the board was too thin. It was failing under load".
When I received the "new" board (for ~$200), it had two "jumper" wires (that look awful). When I questioned if I received a "new" board, they claimed it was new, but still needed the 2 "jumper" wires! From my perspective, a $200 node board shouldn't require hacked jumpers, but WTF do I know!
Report back on what you find...[quoted image][quoted image]

Almost looks like they needed jumpers because when that board was reworked they ripped out through holes.

That's a pretty sad looking rework job. If they sold that as new I'd be a little skeptical it's a repaired board.

#2074 4 years ago
Quoted from snaroff:

For my KISS, I was told "The flaw is the trace on the board was too thin. It was failing under load".
When I received the "new" board (for ~$200), it had two "jumper" wires (that look awful). When I questioned if I received a "new" board, they claimed it was new, but still needed the 2 "jumper" wires! From my perspective, a $200 node board shouldn't require hacked jumpers, but WTF do I know!
Report back on what you find...[quoted image][quoted image]

Did you send them your old board? I'm wondering if that is a board that someone exchanged and they just refurbished it.

#2075 4 years ago
Quoted from Hougie:

Did you send them your old board? I'm wondering if that is a board that someone exchanged and they just refurbished it.

If you have to buy a new board anyway, I certainly would try this jumper first (making sure it was the same rev board and the traces go to the same place). You couldn't do any worse-looking of a job.

Another consideration is talking to Rob (Borygard on here) since he has a record of being able to fix a number of node board issues.

#2076 4 years ago
Quoted from snaroff:

For my KISS, I was told "The flaw is the trace on the board was too thin. It was failing under load".
When I received the "new" board (for ~$200)

Wait, if they admit it's a device/design flaw, why did you have to pay for a new one? I'd use that as a reason to get it replaced free.

#2077 4 years ago
Quoted from Hougie:

Did you send them your old board? I'm wondering if that is a board that someone exchanged and they just refurbished it.

I don’t recall sending them the old board, since they were unwilling to “warranty” it.

Quoted from Fezmid:

Wait, if they admit it's a device/design flaw, why did you have to pay for a new one? I'd use that as a reason to get it replaced free.

I tried using that logic, trust me (I have a long private email thread on the topic). IIRC, the game was 2-3 years old when the board failed. The game was very low plays as I waited for the infamous code update. If the game failed within the first year, I think/hope they would have taken care of me. In general, Stern has treated me well over the years, so I decided to let this one go.

#2078 4 years ago
Quoted from snaroff:

For my KISS, I was told "The flaw is the trace on the board was too thin. It was failing under load".
When I received the "new" board (for ~$200), it had two "jumper" wires (that look awful). When I questioned if I received a "new" board, they claimed it was new, but still needed the 2 "jumper" wires! From my perspective, a $200 node board shouldn't require hacked jumpers, but WTF do I know!
Report back on what you find...[quoted image][quoted image]

First time soldering? Jesus that's rough work. I'm self taught and my work is so much cleaner than that.

#2079 4 years ago
Quoted from KnockerPTSD:

First time soldering? Jesus that's rough work. I'm self taught and my work is so much cleaner than that.

Just to be clear, the work you are admiring is Stern's, not mine. Stern sold the board you reference as a "new" node board that they claimed needed the patch.

#2080 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

I believe Node 8 and 9 are the same type of board (coil/pf switch driver) on Iron Maiden except for the address dipswitches. Maybe try swapping them (and the dip switch address settings) and see if the problem travels?
You can make the board Node 8 by setting dip switches to all OFF. Node 9 is OFF OFF ON OFF.

It is in fact the board. I have a real problem with Stern's toss and buy a new board model.

MVIMG_20190818_220245 (resized).jpgMVIMG_20190818_220245 (resized).jpg
#2081 4 years ago
Quoted from Hougie:

It is in fact the board. I have a real problem with Stern's toss and buy a new board model.[quoted image]

Yep...and to top things off, receiving an ugly patched board as the “new” $200 node board didn’t help! IIRC, KISS and GB were the only 2 “Spike 1” games. This might have contributed to the madness...who knows. I was just happy to get my game working. Hopefully, the ugly duckling board will be robust!

#2082 4 years ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Just to be clear, the work you are admiring is Stern's, not mine. Stern sold the board you reference as a "new" node board that they claimed needed the patch.

I understood it.was Stern. I wasnt trying to be a dick to you

#2083 4 years ago
Quoted from Hougie:

It is in fact the board. I have a real problem with Stern's toss and buy a new board model.[quoted image]

Now that you've verified it is indeed the board, I would 100% try the pictured official Stern jumpering mod (after verifying that this is indeed where the under-engineered traces connect on YOUR version of the board) . If you can solder and have the wire, it will take maybe 10 minutes. Another data point for these boards if this works to get you back running again.

#2084 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Now that you've verified it is indeed the board, I would 100% try the pictured official Stern jumpering mod (after verifying that this is indeed where the under-engineered traces connect on YOUR version of the board) . If you can solder and have the wire, it will take maybe 10 minutes. Another data point for these boards if this works to get you back running again.

I'll give it a go tomorrow.

#2085 4 years ago
Quoted from Hougie:

I'll give it a go tomorrow.

I'd check continuity between the left leg (on the underside pictured) on each of the three transistors to see if maybe the underpowered trace blew out between one or both of them and one or both of them have no continuity before the fix and that's why the board won't register anymore.

#2086 4 years ago
Quoted from snaroff:

For my KISS, I was told "The flaw is the trace on the board was too thin. It was failing under load".
When I received the "new" board (for ~$200), it had two "jumper" wires (that look awful). When I questioned if I received a "new" board, they claimed it was new, but still needed the 2 "jumper" wires! From my perspective, a $200 node board shouldn't require hacked jumpers, but WTF do I know!
Report back on what you find...[quoted image][quoted image]

That is some real Stevie Wonder soldering

#2087 4 years ago

While not pretty, that's how flux and clear lacquer react at solder melt point.
The joints are sound, ugly as they look. A little acetone would have made the work look a lot less ugly.
I think as mentioned this may be an easy fix to a common problem.
I do question the 200 bucks for a replacement pcb though, that's a bit rich.
Thanks for posting Snaroff, There is a good chance this will help others.

#2088 4 years ago

Looks like that wire is going between mosfet source pins. I don't know the Spike system well but I really doubt a failure at mosfet source pins would cause a node board not to be found. Node board not found is probably a critical solder joint cracking from vibration caused by nearby flipper that is needed for communicating with the CPU board.

#2089 4 years ago
Quoted from barakandl:

Looks like that wire is going between mosfet source pins. I don't know the Spike system well but I really doubt a failure at mosfet source pins would cause a node board not to be found. Node board not found is probably a critical solder joint cracking from vibration caused by nearby flipper that is needed for communicating with the CPU board.

I wonder if mounting the board on rubber grommets would help. I may try that when I put a new one in.

#2090 4 years ago
Quoted from Hougie:

I wonder if mounting the board on rubber grommets would help. I may try that when I put a new one in.

Have to think some kind of anti vibration grommets would help. On Iron Maiden there is a main node board right next to the left flipper and the shock of the flipper going off seems pretty violent. My best guess is that is what caused a lamp connector issue in my game.

#2091 4 years ago
Quoted from Hougie:

I wonder if mounting the board on rubber grommets would help. I may try that when I put a new one in.

Mouser has specifically engineered anti-vibration grommets that are are my "to do" list to try...

#2092 4 years ago
Quoted from RA77:

While not pretty, that's how flux and clear lacquer react at solder melt point.
The joints are sound, ugly as they look. A little acetone would have made the work look a lot less ugly.

Yeah, the lack of cleanup and too-long jumper wires is what makes it look bad for a supposed factory fix. A little post-work cleanup would have helped a lot.

#2093 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Mouser has specifically engineered anti-vibration grommets that are are my "to do" list to try

Got a link for these Vic?

#2094 4 years ago
Quoted from Mancave:

Got a link for these Vic?

I guess it was digikey, not mouser. I buy from both and can't keep them straight sometimes...

https://www.digikey.com/en/product-highlight/k/keystone/anti-vibration-grommets

#2095 4 years ago
Quoted from Hougie:

I'll give it a go tomorrow.

Were you able to try the jumpering on your node board? Did it help?

#2096 4 years ago

Two part issue on my premium... I'd say about 20% of the time I lock a ball in the sarcophagus it gets hung up on the end of the lock mech, past the last switch. Machine goes into ball search and even after it tilts down the ball won't roll from its position into the subway. When I go into the switch test neither 39 or 40 are lit up, the ball has rolled past them and is just stuck there. The ball just sits there... I thought the ball may be magnetized and was stuck against the captive ball but when the mech tilts back you can see separation. So it is just leaning up against the left side of the mech. I have to physically pick the game up and tilt it back to get it to dislodge, or take off the glass and poke it when the mech is tilting down.

I don't think it is a stiff switch issue like I've read others report, bit I'm not sure because that is part two's problem...

Part two is when I went to pull the mech I can't for the life of me get the post off the captive ball so I can get the whole mech out and have a closer look... is there something special you have to do to get that post off? I just can't get a grip on the ball from the top side... maybe I'm doing it wrong altogether though and that post isn't supposed to come off?

#2097 4 years ago

Contacted Stern for my Pro and got the lane protector for behind the ramp. What's the "best" way to remove the mylar and any leftover residue? Is it possible to do without removing a lot of the parts towards the back?

#2098 4 years ago

Do you even have to remove the mylar at all?

#2099 4 years ago
Quoted from Lethal_Inc:

Do you even have to remove the mylar at all?

I installed mine tonight and did not remove Mylar. Instructions said if needed. So I guess it depends how chewed up the Mylar is.

#2100 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

I guess it was digikey, not mouser. I buy from both and can't keep them straight sometimes...
https://www.digikey.com/en/product-highlight/k/keystone/anti-vibration-grommets

Which size ?

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