I dont think is the full node board 8, because if i connect the right flipper(ORG GRN) on the same wire of the upper right flipper (YEL BRN) it works just nice, but of course i lose the abiliy to make Stage Flipping because i use the same transistor for both.

Started trooper and waited about 30-40 seconds before the post finally dropped and the lcd caught up. I've had this happen before but this time was easily the longest

Do you have a pro model?

Update with Pro software? You wouldn't be the first...

I just got a maiden... played about 25 games so far. I downloaded the latest code beforethe first game and installed...
When trooper multi ball starts, the game goes dead for a few seconds! No flipper power or lights...
Is there a fix for this? I searched but didn't find anything.
Kinda sucks... it's my first NIB...

Is this reproducible? i.e. does it happen all the time?

NIB games have become a crap shoot...not unusual to work through issues. If you bought this from a local distributor, they should help you. If not, contact your distributor anyway, however also contact Stern.

Hopefully something simple. Took me ~1 month to fully dial-in my NIB IMDN Premium. Less-than-great, however Stern supported me well.

I haven’t tried taking the glass off to reproduce it, but it’s happened 4 or 5 times.
I will contact my distributor, and also try reloading the software.

First, did you load the correct version of the code for the machine you have? It does NOT double check that you are putting thr right update on the correct machine, so you can put premium code on a pro, and vice versa, and it will cause weird things to happen.

When you say "goes dead" does it reboot? Or the flippers are just unresponsive?

I installed the pro version; I have a pro...(1_06_0.spk)
By "goes dead" I mean that the flippers stop working and the playfield lights go out, then after 2 or 3 seconds the play continues, lights come back and flippers work again...it does not re-boot, play picks up where it left off.

Check the output of the power supply to the power distribution board and make sure it is at least 48v. Usually if that drops low the watchdog circuit resets the machine, but maybe they've changed it so it only limits power usage until the levels come back up.

Certainly sounds like a power issue, considering the PF led's all go out too. I'm familiar with a B/W reset issue from the watchdog circuit and how the machine reacts to that, not had this issue with my Maiden as yet. My Monopoly was doing a reset thing cause of a dodgy plug connection and that resets fully, dmd, etc, etc.

This is not an issue, maybe a upgrade, but i would to see on a new code a "random letter ramp", when you put it on hard after the first mode you always shot right and left ramp to get letters, if they can put it on random, you need to shot all over the playfield go get letters... Is a simple update that would make all the diference.

After not playing my Maiden LE for months due to a sarcophagus issue, I finally troubleshot and fixed the issue tonight. The sarcophagus ball sense switches were loose and not detecting balls in the sarcophagus due to two loose screws in the side of the sarcophagus. I removed them and then reinstalled them tight with blue loctite. Now the game plays perfectly again. Got 550M my second game, Cyborg multiball and two soul shards. Boy, I missed this game...what a masterpiece. Hope this helps someone else.

Ok I was noticing that Revive was never getting activated on my Pro for some reason... and then I realized that the lower spinner is not registering. I went into switch test and can’t make the spinner register even if I push the switch blades manually? Is this a bad switch or something else? In switch alerts I see this:

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When you manually test the switch, do it by hand, and slowly trigger it - do you hear a click from the switch? If so, your switch should be good. You can test the other spinner switch to hear the click. Next step would be check wiring to the switch; make sure none of the wires broke off.

The room was noisy so I couldn’t hear any clicks... will try later with everything else turned off. I did try to push the switch down by hand so I know it was closing. All wires seem to be intact as far as I can tell...

Thanks!

Hello,

so looks like my right spinner microswitch is borked (part number 80-5010-04). Cap circled in red is missing, so basically I need to get a new one.

My first problem is that I am having issue removing it, because looks like you need a small wrench or a similar specialised tool to remove the bolds, but I have no idea what size it is or where I can get it. I am based in EU, so I will probably need to buy it online ? Can anyone tell me the exact tool I need. Last, but not least to replace the microswitch will I need to do some soldering or just plug it in ?

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I have started having some weirdness with lamps on the center LED PCB just has a bunch of leds on it and controls other leds through connectors.

When i first turn on the game attract mode always looks normal. The first ball of the first game after power on when i flip the flippers some of the LEDs like number of the beast, cards, and the left ramp arrow turn on and off and change color as I flip the flippers. Some of them that should be solid on will be blinking at the same rate as other lamps are blinking normally. After launching the first ball and playing a minute the issue goes away and stays fixed until the game is powered off and then back on.

I pulled out the LED board in questioned and reflowed some questionable looking solder but the issue still remains. I have not pulled the node board that controls this LED board yet, but I am starting to wonder if it is not a hardware issue but software because it always does it just on ball one of the first game and attract mode looks normal.

Anyone else notice any lamp weirdness on the ball one of the first game before any balls are launched?

I doubt software but if you want to be 100% just reload the software. If it was in the code everyone would have the problem.

It sounds a lot like the cable is not making good contact. That doesn't solve for it going back to normal unless just the light amount of heat in it from being on changes things enough to resolve. Have you tried moving it while the game was on and doing that?

I flexed on the PCBs and wiggled the plugs and it did not make the problem come and go. I initially thought hardware like a bad connector but after noticing attract mode is always fine and it only happens on ball one of the first game played after power on made me question if it really is a hardware thing.

I think maybe I should take the glass off and while its acting up bang on the PF to see if I get any effect like the pounding of the flippers does. I will try and take a video of it later too.

Lamps are wrong and clears up first time I flip.

What happens if you launch the ball without flipping and the ball hits a switch (with still no flipping)?

Good day,

Wondering if anyone knows of a fix for ball continually getting stuck on drop targets, i usually have to nudge pretty hard to get ball back in play and if I leave ball there targets reset. Thanks in advance!

There should be an adjustment screw on the bottom of the drop target bank that sets the height of the targets when they're dropped. It sounds like yours are a bit low, creating a lip with the playfield well edge. Raise the resting point so the targets are straight flush with the playfield when dropped.

PinMonk thank you very much!!!

Thank you very much!!!

No problem. Let me know if that solves it for you.

The other thing is to make sure your pin has a decent pitch and isn't too flat so gravity can work on the ball.

Ever since I put a Cliffy there mine get stuck from time to time. I need to see if adjusting that screw will help.

I pulled out the node board near the flippers that looked to be controlling the LEDs in question. Reformed some header posts that where bent and re-soldered relevant header pins. The lead free solder used on these boards kind of sucks. If you want to reflow the headers you must remove all the old solder or a good joint will not form, you can't just heat and add new leaded solder or the joint gets all dingy and looks like lava rock.

Anyways after doing that the issue seems to have resolved but Im not saying 100% fixed yet as it was intermittent.

These PCBs mounted on the play field would benefit from some shock absorbing grommet mounts. The hammering of the flippers is pretty violent and the PCB is really close by.

My ball launch has been pretty much 100%. Lately it hits the post sleeve about 5-10% of the time. Looked and noticed that the end of the guide was dinged a little, so figured this was the problem and went to take it off to file it smooth again. Low and behold when I took it off, I noticed the anchor stud that is riveted on to it was broken. That might cause an issue. Emailed Stern and waiting to hear back. Here are a couple picks of it. One with the rough edge and one with the broken piece. Kinda weird.

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Pesky shooter lane, for sure. Sorry you are having problems.

My guide has both the anchor stud and notch (closest to the screw adjustment) omitted. This gives you more flexibility to dial it in.

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^^^I agree the issue lies with the orientation of the ball guide combined with where the ball launch makes contact and how it leaves that guide. Lots of varaiables here. Not quite sure if increasing the coil strength is “really” the fix but I got one anyway. Haven’t installed it yet as my guide adjustment has been pretty good so far but I guess it gets worse as you play more. I’ll see soon enough.

Mine shot fine for about 5mo. Now it cant make it all the way around the top anymore. Time to fiddle around and finally up my coil strength.

The stronger coil definitely helps. I believe another factor that effects the shot degrading over time is the size/type of screw holding the guide in place (closest to the exit gate). Since it's a small wood screw, it's prone to loosen over time. IIRC, I increased the size of the screw and added a lock washer to help secure it. Stern should have used a machine screw in this location...oh well.

What they should have done was install a welded post through the playfield like the one below it. Actually, couldn’t we just drill through the playfield and install a longer hex 10-32 screw with with a nylon lock nut underside? That would definitely beef that guide end up to not move.

I would have liked to see a horizontal adjustment bolt system so one could adjust on the fly. Thinking of rigging one up when I get the time. I mean if I get the time.

Hey guys... first time posting... first time pinball owner (premium), looked over whole thread and couldnt find an answer, so any help will be greatly appreciated. The metal ramp that goes up and down (dont know official name) seems to be misaligned, that is, its too far to right (when looking at it from flippers) and when ramp is down it is resting on or very close to the washer under the black rubber bumper. And when up almost or is riding on black rubber post... im posting pic.. hopefully it will go thru.. any idea how to re-align? i did take all 3 machine screws off, tried to re-align when tightening, but it fell right back to same position. Thanx in advance any detail fix would be appreciated, im not up on all terminology...green pea status!!

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You would need to loosen the complete mech assembly from underneath the play field i would be thinking. There will absolutely zero adjustment available for the 3 screws that hold the flap onto the mech itself. I've not had to adjust my mech but i did have to temporarily remove it to attach the Cliffy for the hole but this was some time ago and i can't recall offhand how much adjustment could be made from that side. Someone should know though.

Have you cleaned the playfield/shooter lane?
Some time that's all that's needed.

Think that would make that much of a difference? I'm having the plunge problem now too.

I know it does.
My plunger worked 100% for 1 month then started acting up.
Cleaned with Novus 1 and put on a layer of wax. Has been working again since.

Good to know. Guess i'll be trying that this weekend. I got about 150 plays in and it started acting up.

If you find that you can't adjust under the playfield, send pics to Stern. That ramp should have never passed QC.

well.. agree!! i did call Stearns, they said call where i bought it. So i called my distributor (who has been very good)... he said he'll call the MFG.. and see what the fix is!!

So in the mean time... im lettin my fingers do the walking and hoping someone else has had this issue and fixed it.. so i can either do it myself (highly unlikely) or get the distributor to come an fix it, once i know what needs to be done. thanx!!

Have many of you got flipper ball hop from the inlane to flipper transition? The player on Deadflip says his game has it and I have seen a couple of others here post about it so I'm wondering how common it is for IM games?

Is there anyone who has been able to fix their ball hop so that it runs perfectly smooth on these games? I hate ball hop and if I were to buy an IM and find it had it and I couldn't rectify then it would be a sad day.

Im having this issue ..
Same exact deal ... Mine was perfect and after a few days my auto launch and my manual are either hitting the upper left flipper or the post .. Sometimes perfect sometimes not.. Sometimes it makes it around the orbit sometimes it flys around ... I've only had mine for 10 days from nib... Very frustrating on a brand new game ...