It's not a ground loop. It sounds like it's clipping (overloading) the on-board amp when you really turn it up.

Once I get all the parts, I'll make a step-by-step.

Does this flash lamp stay on all the time like mine does? Works like it's supposed to in test mode,but then comes on with the GI in normal game mode?!?

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Sometimes, my game seems to not realize when I’ve knocked a ball out of the sarcophagus lock into play. Then, when the first of the 2 balls drains, the game counts bonus and drains the remaining ball. Anyone else seen this? Fixes?

Mine does, I thought it was just part of the GI?

I have had this happen a few times now but never realized it might be related to knocking the ball into play. My lock detect switch is working fine (tested it yesterday) so I'm guessing maybe a SW bug?

Mine did do that but I adjusted the upmost switch. Captive hit switch and it hasn’t happened since.

Hmm, that switch tests OK, but I wonder if it should be more sensitive.

Maybe ball is skipping over it or going too fast? Code definitely needs some improvements to handle this stuff...

What is supposed to happen when you knock the second ball into play? Is it supposed to start Mummy MB? Or something else?

I took the top switch and flipped it around. Now it works every time.

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Was it doing what I described before the switch? If so, I may try this.

Ah, I didn't realize it had another switch at the top of the lock mechanism. According to the manual this is #41 "Top Ball Sense".

So you physically mounted the switch in the other direction, so the tip of the switch arm is closer to the far end of the lock mechanism, and further away from the #40 Ball Lock switch at the bottom of the mech?

I turned the switch around. I tried adjusting many times. After turning the top switch backwards it has worked every time. I hope that fixes it. I do get Radom 2 balls in shooter lane. I think the shooter lane switch needs adjustment. It took about 15 mins to mount top switch backwards.

Switch 39 is the top switch.

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Whoops, my bad. Thanks for correcting.

15 minutes? You must be very technically adept. I've been working on this for the last hour and a half. You have to remove a lot of stuff to get to that switch. Once I got in there, I realize that my switch feels very stiff. It is very hard to depress. I reversed it, reinstalled everything, and a ball can't even get past it. I've adjusted it so much the little metal part of the switch looks beat up. The lower switch feels fine. I guess I'll be calling Stern tomorrow, see if they can send me a new one.

So far, I've had to:
#1 adjust the leaf switch for the captive ball, it was initially not gapped at all, and was not registering
#2 adjust the orb switch, it was too sensitive and triggering intermittently
#3 remove the plastics and bend the metal piece from the launch lane to get the auto-launch to work properly
#4 now this, trying to troubleshoot the sarcophagus lock apparatus

This game has required far more work than any LE I've previously purchased.

I would replace them with rollover switches.

Some suggested it earlier and that sounds like a better switch

Replace with these micro-switch based ones: http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5647-12693-06

What sort of switch would you recommend? Source? Are these interchangeable with the originals? Any need to change wiring, etc? Are the screw sizes and locations universal?

Fytr got it

For a stiff switch.. make sure the screws holding it are not too tight. That will cause a microswitch to bind. See if it eases when the screws are backed off

15 mins to take apart and 15 to put together. Mine is working every time. My switch was tight also. Had to bent leaf closer to switch.

This one: http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/180-5119-02 , is among the parts for IMDN LE on Marco Specialties. Is it somehow better than the one you mentioned for this location? Worse?

In my experience worse. I’ve had this style go out of adjustment and the switch ball become stiff and not function reliably. I much prefer the Williams style I linked to above that uses a microswitch which is feather light to activate. They are interchangeable.

Ordered. Thanks.

I bought this amp you recommeded. Thank you. Have you documented how to get it installed yet by chance? No rush, just curious and thanks for helping us challenged folks out

Any ideas as to why the auto launch would activate at the start of a players’ turn if they were dragging their feet plunging?

This happened to me because the orb captive ball was too sensitive and having false switch hits.

OK, this is probably a dumb statement/question but just got my IMDN LE. When powering up no lights come on in the back box. Should they?

Yes, but only after the game boots, which takes 30 seconds or so on Spike II, feels like an eternity.

Check the jumper on the board the 2 wire one for the back box lights

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Still gathering parts. Just found out today that the post spacing on the backbox speaker is too small for 5.25" speakers on the Pro. It looks like the Premium is using a different drop-in plate with different post spacing for the speakers. I'll need to solve that problem.

But yes, I plan to do a step-by-step upgrade with an external amp and new, better speakers on a Pro. Most of the info should apply to the Prem/LE, too.

I have had the same issues as well...seems that the post becomes loose at the screw connection...has Stern said anything about putting something on the threads to help bind it???

Cool. Thanks!

Thank you. Mine aren't coming on at all. I will check this.

ok, good to know. Mine never come in. Will fool around with connections.

Thanks everybody.

Craig

Man these switches are a joke.

Now i can't figure out if mummy switch is messed up AND/OR the sarcophagus switch.

I've tweaked the Mummy and now Sarc just loads and then goes into ball search every time, drops it down, and spits it out. And then Mummy is no longer available.

Frustrating.

Yup, been there. Waiting for those Marco rollover switches.

Gonna have to do the same.

Left ramp isn't registering the lock even though it appears on the Lcd? Def not the Mummy ball.

I'm sending an email to Game room guys and calling Chas. Let's see what they come back with.

I’ve seen that exact thing happen, too. Not happening at the moment, but definitely an issue there somewhere.

I think the orb switch registering when the flippers fire is a chronic condition too. I’ve adjusted mine twice and tonight it’s doing it again. It’s either too sensitive or doesn’t register at all. Seems like the metal post in the center of the pop bumper spoon might be the issue? A pop bumper uses a lightweight slippery plastic post with a rounded tip in the spoon.

It doesn’t seem like the heavier metal post on the orb target returns to center every time.

I wish anyone trying to route a Prem or LE luck...

I know right. Was working fine. Then boom, can't figure it. Loosened up Sarcophagus gate in the back, no difference.

Started on .97 and continued on .98 after update.

Might be a node board issue?

Can you imagine? What a disaster that will be on route.

Just got our premium IM today! Pretty kick ass. However playing over Two hours and staring a new game I can no longer select my song and it plays the first one that was listed. I've also noticed that spots me all the accomplishments I had from the prior game I.e. The ED...Y is already scored. We have also noticed that flipping the flipper bats prior to launching a ball is increasing the score.

Any ideas? Thanks!

Orb captive ball not gapped properly. Or sticking. Par for the course.

The main reason we cancelled the Premium.

I’ve had many similar issues mentioned in this thread, but I’ve managed to get my game running smooth quickly.

1. Ramp got stuck in up position: checked the mech and realized the back fold of the ramp has a sharp edge and was momentarily sticking on the ball guide below the back of the ramp. The mech would trigger the release coil, but the ramp would miss it as it was momentarily stuck. I used a qtip and a tiny bit of 3in1 oil and lightly oiled the ball guide behind the ramp. Problem solved. After 50 plays or so, the ramp no longer rubs the guide as far as I can tell. Strange.

2. Switches in sarcophagus lock: I just had to do a bend adjustment to find the sweet spot for the front switch. I also depressed the switch forcefully many times to loosen it up. I’ve had to do this with replacement cherry switches on w/b machines in the past.

3. Both captive balls: gapped them about 0.5mm each and all is well. Left orb needed a second gapping as the bumpers would occasionally trigger it. Remember to thoroughly test the gapping with the glass off and one ball in switch test. This will save you time as getting it right may take a few tries.

I’m hoping stern mods the captive ball rods to mimic pop bumper rods more closely. The hex metal is too wide to be sensitive enough. Plus the switches are mounted away from where the most common hits/momentum would come from.

All in all, I’ve found it not too bad for adjusting. That being said, stern, as always, could have done a better job.

Yup, it was the left orb. Need slight adjusting. Did just as Tranquilize suggested, put in switch test mode and activating either side flippers made the translousent ball switch active as well. Granted it was a 60 second adjustment but if it continues to reoccur that could get annoying. Correct me if I'm wrong but didn't X-Men have to same issue? I believe the switch on that one was different but would cause the same issue.

I’m hoping that’s my issue. Orb and Mummy ok for now.

There are 2 switches in sarcophagus lock?

Does anyone have a good solution to the left wireform? I've tried a few setups to corral the ball, but I keep getting hopovers.

Has anyone tried bending or adding a bumper or guide of some sort?

Surprised this isn't' mentioned more as an issue. Maybe a Pro thing only?

Having the occasional issue but only on the right side.

This happened to mine initially as well, but as the game broke in after a few dozen plays it has calmed down a lot.

If this has already been addressed I'll apologize. Has anyone experienced any issues with the cabinet speaker? Mine only produces a low mumm. I checked the wiring at the speaker and all is good. I also reset the connector in the back box, lower left and the connector near the cabinet speaker and still nothing. Thanks