This is the solution. Believe it or not.
On mine, the playfield has to be as far back left to auto plunge around 80%.
Took me awhile to figure this out.

I will try that tonight and report back. Thanks for the tip!

My playfield wont move any left or right lol. I will bend the auto plunger prong just a tad and I’ll be back in business i think. Gotta get some play time on the new MET code first though so IMDN is gonna take a backseat for a couple of days probably!

Anyone have an issue with the ball not rolling down once being locked by the top right post?

When the post drops the ball doesn’t roll down i have to shake the game to get the ball to move

The pitch is correct and the game is level. Also cleaned and waxed that area no luck.

Yes, I frequently have that problem too. I'd be surprised if it doesn't happen to everyone occasionally. At first I thought it was the height of the pop up post being too low, adjusted that, still does it. If you feel the inside ball guide on that bend just to the left of the pop up post, there's a rivet head, I think the ball is just coming to rest against it.

More than likely your ball is getting stuck on the Mylar that’s by that post. Try removing that and see if it fixes the issue.

Thanks guys.

I actually don’t have any Mylar up there so it’s not that.

I’ve tried puttin the pitch as high as 7.5 and still didn’t help.

Anyone have a solution for this? The game is gonna go on route so I’d like to find a fix rather then have people shaking/slapping the game on location.

chuckwurt is right, I had the same issue and didnt realize there was mylar there either.
There was, and once I removed it no more issues whatsoever.

I just checked again no mylar there on my game.

However i slightly bent the bracket holding the post so that it leaned ever so slightly to the right allowing the ball to be just a mm further over that seems to have fixed the issue. We will see how long it works. May need to shim the mounting screws ever so slightly

I'm getting a pro delivered soon. As soon as I get it I'm going to wipe it down and wax it. I want to put mylar down. Can anybody tell me how much mylar is already installed on the game? Obviously I want to put it in all critical areas. Also wondering if I should be looking to put down the mylar sheet that's designed for the game in the play area. Don't really want to do it if I have to remove a whole bunch of things down to the board. Never installed mylar before so this is a new area for me.

Do not cover the playfield with Mylar. Waste of time and money and will hurt resale imo.

Imo this game needs no more Mylar than what comes factory.

Put Mylar in the shooter lane and outhole. That is plenty.

Do you plan on routing the machine where it will get at least 100 plays per day??? Sounds like a pf protector is what you're looking for. You won't need it either though.

Not at this time, it will be definitely in home use. Haven't worked with this stuff at all. Does it smooth into the valley of the shooting Lane, up the sides and on top without wrinkling. Looked for a tutorial on this and haven't found it. I just haven't done it before and probably is over-analyzing it. Appreciate everybody's input.

Cut a piece of Mylar so it looks like a pair of pants. Put that in the shooter lane.

Put another piece cut the length of the outhole and place it on the edge that is furthest from the player.

Done.

If the game is home use i really wouldn’t worry about it... just clean and wax it every few months and new balls every other year... you won’t have an issue.

Good find, I just bent mine ( after re-reading your post I think I've gone the opposite way to you ), just had about 10 games and the ball didn't get stuck once

I just got my premium yesterday. Has anyone had issues with the left flipper staying up? It only does it once in awhile and doesn’t permanently stay up but sticks for a few seconds. Does anyone know the fix for this? Thank you

i find that the rubber around the pop-up post tends to work it's way up the post, causing it to rise above the playfield when in the down position. never impacted my machine, but may be a cause on yours.

Check the flipper for up/down play - there should be about 1mm.

Rob

I wish they’d have placed a pice of metal under the ramp instead of Mylar...it’s wearing through:/

Well there was never any doubt aboot that happening.

#PremiumProblems

Anyone ever have their ball get stuck in here and not drop down to the sarcoughagus?

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Ok I’ll try this again. The X insert light at the super jackpot has never worked on my maiden pro. Is it wired correctly? It looks like it’s wired differently (backwards) than all the other single led boards. See my pics. Can someone provide a pic from theirs?

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Looks backwards to me. Maybe those boards care about polarity. I'd definitely give swapping leads a try.

I dont have mine for a couple weeks but i say youve nailed it. No professional should be using red as a negative AND changing it up from one spot to the next. Reflow and swap them and I'd put money that it works......but still wait for pics from others lol

Either polarity matters and swapping them is the likely fix or it doesn't matter and swapping them won't harm anything anyway. Win win other than wasted time

If that doesn't solve it, more than likely a broken connection going into the node board.

Would require re-crimping which is a ***** to do!

My LE has that issue right out of the box. Ball would get stuck in the plastic passage mounted behind the backboard. The switch was adjusted too tightly causing the arm to jam the ball. I removed the plastic passage part and adjusted the switch and that solved it.

Sorry for the excessive posts. I've had a lot of issues with this machine so far. My orb is not working at all. The purple orb light is constantly blinking but ive realized that the hits arent registering at all. Does anyone know the fix for this?

Looks like that switch is stuck closed, but it's a little out of focus so it's hard to tell. Is there any gap at all?

Doesn’t look like it. Looks like the contacts are pressed together. Do you have a reference of what a normal one should look like? I’m not sure how much of a gap it should have

Look at your pop bumpers switch below the plastic saucer. Same type setup. Basically the end of that switch should be barely apart, so any movement of the steel pencil in the plastic saucer will make them touch. Once you gap it, put it in switch test mode and manually hit it to make sure you have it right.

Whenever I tap the orb Newton ball and watch the plastic saucer, it does not move. Do I have to bend this up a little So the metal pencil fits in the saucer more tightly?

Yes, that's the idea. The spoon switch has very tight tolerances so it takes a bit of fiddling around to get it right, but if it's not making contact try bending it toward the post a bit. It is very important that the post rests in the middle of the spoon so be careful not to bend the spoon out of alignment.

My Maiden has started sporadically shooting two balls instead of one into the shooter lane after a drain.
Happens every few games, sometimes more than once. Then no problems for a dozen games, then it happens again. What should I fool with to try to fix this?

Thank you. I got this resolved by doing that and loosening some screws. Never had a machine so problematic out of the box =/

Alright gents, my IMDN LE auto-launch out of the box was working correctly about 2/3 - 3/4 of the time.

I checked the ball guide and it was nice and straight and set to the furthest out/highest setting without bending anything. When the ball shoots successfully it seems perfectly aligned. However, some of the time it will either hit the black rubber post below the left loop entrance, or the tip of the small flipper across from it (so too low or too high).

So I tried messing with the autolaunch coil power settings a bit, no appreciable difference in the success/failure rate, but it does give a bit of a choice of whether when it fails you want the ball to have enough force to possibly give you a super-jackpot sometime, or just roll part-way up the ramp and then dribble down the middle.

I also took a look at the auto-launcher itself and I believe that it is the source of the problem. It is simply not built to the kind of tolerances that will keep the prongs centered reliably on the ball. It is very sloppy, and the single lightweight metal arm on the right side that is triggered by the coil firing naturally causes a sideways twisting pressure on it that can cause the prongs to be slightly higher on one side than the other, or even make both prongs move to the left away from center.

I even tried to introduce more tension in the shooter prong piece by bending the two arms below the playfield further apart so that there would some tension when it was tightened and it would be less sloppy side-to-side. This was effective in reducing the side-to-side sloppyness when using light pressure but not enough to hold when the coil fires. Even the bushings used around the rod that holds it are too large with enough of a gap to prevent it from staying perfectly straight. The net result was 0% improvement, still works 2/3 - 3/4 of the time.

So I don't think this can be solved without someone creating a replacement launcher, or maybe an upgrade kit for the existing one. Stern's launcher is as cheap as you could possibly make it, I think the metal on it might actually float it's so lightweight...

First handyman to craft a reliable autolauncher get's my $100.

Thank you Rob. Bumping this comment back up, as others have been having problems with this mech recently it seems, and I spent a bunch of time fiddling with mine last night as well...

Re-read every comment in this thread and this was BY FAR the best advice for adjusting the mech, IMO. It's not a simple matter of gapping the switch correctly, as I found if collar (8) is screwed all the way in the stem will often come to rest to different positions, making gapping correctly a futile effort. I backed collar (8) out about halfway up, and tightened the actuator stem (4) onto it in that position, and as a result 1) the orb moves much more freely and 2) it comes to rest in a consistent position, making gapping the switch actually possible.

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Here's another tip for folks struggling with loosening collar (8) and/or actuator (4) - mine came with loctite from the factory and was VERY difficult to loosen. What did the trick was a set of locking-jaw pliers with a split flipper rubber over the ball, and a 1/4 wrench on actuator (4). Once that is loosened, you're only partway there - I used a second pair of locking jaw pliers on collar (8) to back it out a bit.

IMG_0225 (resized).jpg

That's why I don't like loctite on this mechanism because it makes adjustment very difficult and awkward. But, it might need just a tiny speck to keep things in place.

Rob

Yes,
I am going to request a new kicker arm
Stern must have changed supplier or existing supplier trimmed the new ones down
The metal is now thinner and no doubt would flex when it strikes the ball.
Comparing to kicker are in METLE is better quality
I want to see if the old ones are available and interchangeable.
Check my previous post auto plunge ass'y in image gallery.

put heat into the ball with a soldering iron and it will burn off the thread locker. Never use red thread locker only blue.

Has anyone gotten two balls in the pharaohs tomb and had one her stuck behind the gate before the sarcophagus. the game went into ball search and couldn’t find it and eventually kicked out another ball. I had to drop the glass and manually lift the gate when the game is over. Woks fine when in normal play but in ball search it doesn’t move, and in test mode doesn’t go up high enough to release a ball.

Just saw this, mine did the same thing

I found a good way to set the contact gap is to use a small bright flashlight so you can really see in-between the contacts. You can get the gap down to almost nothing (the contact area is really small) using a good lite and a leaf switch adjuster tool--which is what you need to adjust the gap properly.

Try turning down the power on the coil which fires the ball into the shooter lane.
On factory settings it really powers it out and sometimes it falls back in. Thing is another ball has been fed through so now you have two balls in there.
Someone will come in where it is on the adjustments menu.
Hope that gives you a start

So unlike some others on here, my auto launcher was shooting around the loop 100%. I then put Titan bands on all the flippers and now it hits the little flipper and only succeeds about 75% of the time. Are Titan bands thicker than the black bands that came with the game or is it more likely that I moved the positioning on the flipper? I'm thinking about swapping the single flipper back, but it was a bug bear to get on and the color will be off from the others.