Yes, I do have the spacer, on both of my wireforms.

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However....either the factory seems to have overtorqued the nut above it, or I did...the spacer has indents from the wireform.

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But...even after flipping it over so the wireform is on the "good" side of the spacer and not re-overtorqueing, the ball still hits the screw in the path of the wireform.

What part of my wireform makes it look trashed? The game is only 2 weeks old....there is some lint/dust that you see in the picture. Is that what you are referring to?

Anyway....so...should I just throw on another washer to raise up the wireform? That would make the ball "drop" from a bit higher into the inlane but seems to be the only downside....

Yes.

But even then I had this issue.

I put 2 small black cable ties at end of left ramp to soften impact and it hasn't happened since.

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Thanks. Great idea with the wire ties. I was thinking of how to add some drop dead foam but simpler is better.

You can slice a black post rubber so it will fit over the perpendicular supports and cut the length to fit. This goes under the ball and barely touches it, but slows it enough if the ball is going too fast. Used it on GoT Prem to slow the ball that kept falling out of the Throne after speeding down the ramp.

I'm still not happy with the manual and auto launch on this game. And I'm starting to think it will never be absolutely 100%. Just when you think it's all good, it will start missing shots again. Bugger....

Rob

I'm going to post some things that worked for me. I was able to accomplish this in about an hour, mainly I think due to reading this thread and what people have done that worked or didn't. I saved a lot of time learning from you're guy's mistakes

-My up/down ramp seemed loose, and it was. All three screws worked themselves loose, I didn't touch those prior.
-Stern sent me a new right wireform as balls were flying off the old one, works great now.
-I had balls going around the big side loop not being counted. two screws drops the opto bracket from the bottom and 2 plugs frees it. They looked straight enough, but they seemed to be pointing a bit up. I bend them both down, installed, and haven't missed a loop yet.
-Both my manual and auto launches were missing the loop. I adjusted the shooter rod, still missing. Based on advice here, I put a washer under the metal adjustment guide, didn't seem to help. My balls were hitting the bottom post.

Adjusting the guide as high as possible and 1 out of 4 were making the loop, 3 of 4 hitting the bottom post. Two things I did made all the difference. I had previously bent the prongs of the auto launcher so both sides were touching the ball, both at rest and at the end of it's action. What helped was bending both prongs inward toward the center so they contacted the ball closer to the center. Things were better, I was about 60%. What got me the rest of the way was tuning the coil power. Started at 255, went down to 250. Better. Went down to 240, same. Went to 245. Almost perfect. Went to 246, worse. Went to 244. At 244 I auto-plunged 10 in a row and all 10 made the loop. I pulled the plunger and with a full non-lazy plunge the ball made the loop 10 times in a row.

Put everything back together, and for the second time in the 100 games I've played I got the effect at the start of trooper multiball. Every ball for 3 games auto plunged correctly. I did have a couple misses on manual plunges, but I'm pretty sure the plunges were lazy.

As far as I'm concerned, it's fixed when it works for 100 games, but either way I am closer. I stopped playing so I can go to bed victorious

Ok, I don't want to complain, but I will about this. Node board 9 was mounted in a horrible spot, blocking what should be easy access to GI lights in the far back left corner of the playfield. I have one light that is going out and what should be a 2 minute job is turning into a lot longer than that. Wiring looms are wrapped way too tight here and GI wiring is running under the node board. Take the node board out and there's a cardboard insulator stapled in place. Getting at the GI from the top of the playfield isn't the answer, so it's just try to manage from the bottom. I know, sometimes trying to get at one thing in a pinball game can be a chore, but I think this could have been avoided.

It's a wiring nightmare in that corner, just to get at 1 bulb....

edit - forget trying to get to the GI from the bottom because the sockets are stapled in.

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So, I also looked at the left wireform...and, noticed that it was also too low. It was pushing down on the plastic below it, enough to bend it.

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I also noticed that the left black plastic spacer was also getting malformed. And the rightside spacer also got slight impressions from the wireform on the top and I barely torqued it. So...I have now concluded that the wireform spacers can not take the pressure from direct contact with the wireform. Also...both sides were too low.....so conclusion: I think stern either made a mistake and forgot to include washers for under the wireform, or....just plain made a mistake by not putting them in the construction spec.

Either way...I added a washer to both sides and now the left side plastics are not being touched and the right side screw is not hitting the ball. So its sling plastic, black spacer, washer, wireform, washer, nut.

Try the 'foam fix' it's been working out great for me *knock on wood a million times*

Since I had taken the node board out, I decided to re-route a few wires, cut a few tie straps and reduce a lot of tension on the wiring connectors. It's much better than it was before. If you have a premium or LE, check the sarcophagus wiring to make sure it isn't secured too tight, or it causes wire bending at the switch will eventually lead to a wiring failure from flexing too much at a single point.

Just a few more small connectors to re-attach.....

Rob

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Pic?

Rob

We should create a masterclass video: "50 ways to fix your brand new Stern."

Any person who's bought a new machine from any company since the beginning and says that it didn't need an adjustment is a liar.

Using these small, plastic spacers is another sign of cheapening the BOM. They’re just waiting to be lost during maintenance and seem to be a way of making simplier, cheaper wireforms. There is one on a post at the back of BM66 that will hang up the entire turntable if missing.

I’m in manufacturing so get the pressure to always reduce costs but good cost reduction shouldn’t cause customer issues and can actually make the product better like Spike.

heat on blue thread locker kills it.

build quality on both suck IMO.

This is the biggest bunch of shit I might have ever read on this site. DI plays like shit because JJP used incorrect ramp flaps on both of the orbit shots. Instead of a nice clean flowing game, it's a bunch of bricks and misses because the balls are catching air when they shouldn't, hitting places they shouldn't, and not making the shots they should. The fact that I took the ramp pieces out, tapered them with a dremel and put them back in to fix the issue proves just how serious it is. The game plays night and day when the issue is fixed. Lots of people are having the issue, most people don't realize it, and I tried to tell JJP about the issue and they didn't care at all. Something SO simple just kills DI, so lets not start some JJP vs Stern bullshit.

I could also tell you about my NIB WOZ RR that was so awful the ball couldn't even complete the very first ball launch, they didn't dress the wires under the castle mini and the ball would just hang up under it. That's some awesome QC right there, they didn't even plunge the ball.

My DILE has none of the issues of ball travel that you speak of with the loops.

DILE: Large LCD, Servicable PC under the hood, Better speaker design, more servicable, Phone LCD, Theatre LCD, 5 magnets, real sewer with trap door, LED ramps, Mechanic arm diverter, Stunning animations on ALL THREE lcds, selfie camera, headphone jack and external volume control, Bluetooth app control, lower right switch, proper leg brackets, full color manual that weighs 5 pounds...

IM: Sarcophogus lock mech, two captive balls, simulated mirrored backglass, an LED Tower thing, half size LCD with incomplete animations that will likely never be finished, foil side art.... Hmmm. Struggling here, so help me out.

Gameplay: IMDN plays wonderful when the autolaunch decides that it will work for a while. DILE has it's issues, but I find it plays a little smoother. Still love the IMDN gameplay though.

Now that I've thought out loud, I can clearly see that choosing DILE as better value for the dollar is the biggest bunch of shit I might have ever read on this site myself! Stern for the win!

I just fixed mine, but I had different results when I unscrewed the guide as mine was flush with the Playfield. I simply pushed the guide further open and screwed it back in. It took a little bit of pressure as that guide is thick, but working great in 10 out of 10 shots.

Before trying this I tried different coil settings but never was able to help much.

The biggest issue with my game is a weak black screen so the inserts are not opaque enough for my liking, but it plays great otherwise. I might see if I can get another Playfield as I see this being a keeper for a long time.

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Man, sounds like you got a bum game. I have both of these machines and while I do kinda feel like the build quality on DI is better, IMDN just plays killer!

The left wireform on my game doesn't have the best 'fit' and there's almost too much stress on the middle mount point when it's bolted down at the bottom. Maybe the hex post at the middle mount is slightly too long? Or maybe they are all just like this. If the hex post is any shorter, the wireform might hit the top of the left orbit spinner bracket.

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Wondering if the auto-plunge mech would work better if the prongs were wider?

There is definite slop in the mech and guessing if poor contact causes various spinning action and loss of power?

If I were a mechanical engineer I would make new prongs to test out the theory!

I noticed the exact same thing with my left wireform....I have to push down on the wireform a bit more than I think would be normal to screw it onto the left slingshot screw. Its probably designed that way...

The problem appears to be that the hex post used for the mid mounting point is about 1/4 inch too long.

Rob

I think you mean the prongs wider apart? If you are going to try that, remember that the ball is not supposed to be resting on the manual plunger while it is sitting in the shooter lane. Ball is meant to be resting on the auto plunger prongs.

Can someone explain about this washer fix? is it the washer under the post. The diagram is a bit misleading as it shows a screw on the left side and from what I see is a black post that sits next to the ball guide. Mine has a washer under this post. Is that what this fix is about?

My auto launch never works.

No. The washer goes under the end of the guide near the right upper flipper. There is a screw that holds it down and the hole in the guide is ovalled so you can adjust it. He is saying that without the washer, the screw is torquing the guide wrong. The washer alleviates this problem and makes it straight.

Thanks. I put in the washer. Seems it now plunges rhe ball into the upper left flipper not the post below it. So it did make a difference but too much. Maybe my washer is too thick? One thing I noticed is lifting the left flipper during the plunge guarantees the orbit. I am thinking of adjusting the left upper flipper slightly higher. This might help. Now that I put in the washer my manual plunges all suck. Time to tweak that. This is very frustrating

Just gotta adjust that ball guide. Play while it lasts, and do-er again!

I emailed Stern about the hex post size and they said it's 1.5 so the left wireform doesn't interfere with the spinner (which is what I thought).

Rob

New pro owner here, 27 pages is a lot of reading, can someone point me in the right direction to fix balls flying off the left wireform? pretty sure its not reaching the end of the wireform, flying off on one of the bends. Is there a way to slow the ball down?

Kev, you only have to read back a couple of pages

disregard. Figured it out

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Mine doesn't, send me pics and will compare to mine mate

Mine does it as well, but only when it's a clean shot up the ramp really fast. Saw someone on here but foam on the bottom crossbars of the wire forms to slow it down. On a side not, I was starting to have a problem with both my manual and auto launch hitting the lower post 90 % of the time. Did the washer fix under the guide screw and now it works like a charm 100% of the time now.

My balls flew off the right wireform, I sent a video to Stern and they sent me a new one. Been fine ever since. Call Stern and see what their take on it is.

I'll have to give them a call and see what they say. Also wanted to give X-Rug big props for figuring out the washer under the guide fix for the shooter lane. Works for me 100%.

Just wanted to share.

I seem to have fixed my manual and auto launch issues. They never worked until I added the washer under the ball guide. Found a good one but then it was hitting the upper left flipper. I move the guide and far inward as I could and tightened it up. I also adjusted the left flipper straighter as it seemed drooping and my son noticed the shots made it perfect when the left flipper is up. Just making it straight and less droopy seems to make the flow great. Now the manual and auto plunge work great and the loop shots are amazing from the right flipper as well since they don't hit that damn left flipper. Played a great game tonight and oh man is this game a blast with it is set up right.

I am having a hard time understanding or picturing this washer. Can you share a photo?

I would also love to see a picture.

As I understand it, the washer would go under the guide wall tab. I.e., it would be PF, washer, guide tab, screw.

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However...I think this would only be a fix for those that have a guide wall that is torqued. I.e., where the guide wall is not perfectly perpendicular with the playfield. I'll go ahead and still add it to the plunger adjuster guide here ->

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/iron-maiden-issues/page/25#post-4645095

That is exactly how it goes. I did it on mine and now it's like 100% every time. The only time it doesn't go through the loop is when I wimp out and don't plunge hard enough.

I'm trying to diagnose why my Sarcophagus diverter is trapping my ball without raising. I can get the "Motor SW" to fire in test mode (switches 62-65), however I can't seem to get the test software to fire the "Ball SW" test (switches 39/40). Any clues?

Thanks for any help,

snaroff

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Yes this is exactly where is goes. Once I adjusted mine and adjusted the upper left flipper I am 100% success on manual and auto plunges. I hope I didn't just jinx myself but Trooper multi-ball works great as it should and the right flipper loop shots are seamless. Before adjusting I could barely get one.

Well....I just cleaned my Iron Maiden (just novus 1 this time)...and, changed out my balls to ball baron ninjas. Of course....this drastically affects my plunge path. Since the ball is moving much faster it hits the bottom post about...100% of the time. I already pushed in the guide wall a bit (lowering auto plunger power didn't affect it enough), but I'm hesitant to do too much because as soon as the Playfield gets a bit dirty it will start slowing down some. Man, what a continual task this is going to be with adjusting the plungers!

I chose to adjust mine after a clean and wax. The game reminds me when to clean and wax when the launcher starts to miss. I prefer to make my own decisions about when I work on my machines, but IMDN has a mind of its own. I expected far worse quality from Stern, so I'm pretty happy with the machine, even with its general Stern cheapness.

That's not a bad idea, though it still might make more sense to adjust after cleaning after....30-40 games? I mean, the game plays pretty different right after a clean/wax for a few dozen games, then after that is a much more gradual change, right?

Here is another question. I bought these LED lights, mainly as a 'proof of concept' or...just to try out some different colors ->
https://www.pinballlife.com/ablaze-1-led-4447-bayonet-base-lamp-with-frosted-lens.html

So...I also bought the "upgraded" versions in warm white for underneath the slingshot plastics, and they work fine ->
https://www.pinballlife.com/ablaze-premium-ghost-buster-1-smd-led-4447-bayonet-base-lamp-with-clear-dome.html

And...I think the warm white is a better color for that location (especially of the color theme of the PF near there). But...I was wanting to try Purple for the inlane/outlane plastics.

However, the cheaper purple LEDs don't work here? ->

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The same purple LED works fine if I put it in the backboard? ->

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The factory LEDs both say 6.3VAC on them in both locations (inlane and backboard), so...what am I missing?

Yeah, but then every time you clean the game it will be screwed up. I'd rather just keep it clean. I don't need to wax each time. I just give it a quick wipe down.

As for your lights, I'd test the voltage from the sockets to get a clear idea of what you're feeding the bulbs.

Has anyone had the vertical back panel off a premium/LE playfield? If so, how difficult was it?

Rob