(Topic ID: 217498)

Iron Maiden issues


By rvdv

1 year ago



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There are 2238 posts in this topic. You are on page 22 of 45.
#1051 1 year ago

Having an issue where the ramp gate to the sarcophagus lock won't stay up when it should. The lights flash for the shot to be made, but the ramp seems confused--sometimes it goes up then comes right back down. Anyone experience this or have a suggestion?

Found the problem, one of the gate locating "points" was hitting the ramp before going all the way into the cutout. A slight bend and that fixed it.

#1052 1 year ago
Quoted from Who-Dey:

Yep it’s impossible to get it good and tight and i hate to tell you this but its going to come loose. I loctited mine but i dont think its going to hold mine either since the loctite isnt drying. I dont know if i got a bottle of bad loctite or what but it seems like it should have dried up instead of staying wet so we will see.

Dry it with a hair dryer, works for me...

#1053 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Dry it with a hair dryer, works for me...

Thank you. Mine did dry inside the threads actually and its holding good for now. Good idea though.

#1054 1 year ago
Quoted from Maide:

I sent an email to stern on Sunday night, and today I received the updated newton ball actuators they said they'd send me. It's completely fixed my "the newton ball doesn't register 95% of the time" problem, and now it seems to work every hit.
In the first game with the table back down, I immediately unlocked mummy multiball twice, back to back, and had a really great game. This went on for some time after that; this game is a lot more fun when all the major features work!
I attached a picture of the old part (left) and the new, much more pointy part (right), for anyone who was curious. They're roughly the same length.
[quoted image]

Thanks very much for posting. Is the part number correct for the replacement post?

Cheers

#1055 1 year ago
Quoted from RA77:

Ask your distributor for this[quoted image]

How many of these are in the game?

#1056 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballaddicted:

How many of these are in the game?

There are 2, one for the clairvoyant orb switch and one for the mummy sarcophagus lock.

#1057 1 year ago
Quoted from Who-Dey:

There are 2, one for the clairvoyant orb switch and one for the mummy sarcophagus lock.

legend! Thanks.

#1058 1 year ago

I emailed Stern about replacement posts Friday and they came today! Had to email them again today as the soldering on my smart dome flasher came loose and they are sending my a new one of those as well! Just be aware when removing the plastics over the right ramp as those connections on the dome are barely held on.

#1059 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballaddicted:

Thanks very much for posting. Is the part number correct for the replacement post?
Cheers

I have no idea, sorry. They knew what I was talking about when I contacted them, so hopefully you won't need to actually reference the part number.

#1060 1 year ago

This is the package my post replacements came in if that helps.

9A7B4D3D-6A49-495C-909F-54CD35442937 (resized).jpeg
#1061 1 year ago
Quoted from Brootull:

This is the package my post replacements came in if that helps.
[quoted image]

Thank you very much! That is exactly what I wanted!

#1062 1 year ago

Allright.. so three weeks of pure playing bliss have ended abruptly..

Trouble free, untill a few days ago. I dont mind the dialing in, captive balls etc. But the mummy lock has me stumped..

I dont quite understand the software logic enough as to why one switch can upset the gameplay so badly to terminate play .

I had a non registiring lower sarcophogus switch, so took out the assy to fit new 2 roller style switches, as reccomended on the forum.( the good cherry versions)

Adjusting them proves difficult, as they are a little stiff, holding the ball rolling back into the through. Too low.. and the front one wont register in the most horizontal position.. its super minimal

Question is .. Are there different length leafs with a roller?

#1063 1 year ago
Quoted from steigerpijp:

Allright.. so three weeks of pure playing bliss have ended abruptly..
Trouble free, untill a few days ago. I dont mind the dialing in, captive balls etc. But the mummy lock has me stumped..
I dont quite understand the software logic enough as to why one switch can upset the gameplay so badly to terminate play .
I had a non registiring lower sarcophogus switch, so took out the assy to fit new 2 roller style switches, as reccomended on the forum.( the good cherry versions)
Adjusting them proves difficult, as they are a little stiff, holding the ball rolling back into the through. Too low.. and the front one wont register in the most horizontal position.. its super minimal
Question is .. Are there different length leafs with a roller?

I seem to recall reading that only the rear switch should be replaced with a roller as it was just too hard to get the front roller set up properly. You'll have to read back thru the Maiden threads to find this post and see if I am recalling this correctly.

#1064 1 year ago
Quoted from steigerpijp:

Allright.. so three weeks of pure playing bliss have ended abruptly..
Trouble free, untill a few days ago. I dont mind the dialing in, captive balls etc. But the mummy lock has me stumped..
I dont quite understand the software logic enough as to why one switch can upset the gameplay so badly to terminate play .
I had a non registiring lower sarcophogus switch, so took out the assy to fit new 2 roller style switches, as reccomended on the forum.( the good cherry versions)
Adjusting them proves difficult, as they are a little stiff, holding the ball rolling back into the through. Too low.. and the front one wont register in the most horizontal position.. its super minimal
Question is .. Are there different length leafs with a roller?

Check posts 729-735 has some good detail

Topic gallery and index at top of page are a great feature. Thanks Pinside !

#1065 1 year ago
Quoted from RA77:

Check posts 729-735 has some good detail
Topic gallery and index at top of page are a great feature. Thanks Pinside !

Didn't know that was there, thanks!

#1066 1 year ago
Quoted from steigerpijp:

I had a non registiring lower sarcophogus switch, so took out the assy to fit new 2 roller style switches, as reccomended on the forum.( the good cherry versions)

Oh man, been down that road brother. It's unreal how a less than 100% functioning Sarco mech and those two switches can negatively affect game play.

For one reason or another i've broken this mech down many times, and its just a POS.

I wouldn't waste any more time, get a new mech from Stern, that's what i finally did. Back to full bliss.

When i got the new mech however, the hidden 3rd leaf switch which rotates the wheel literally fell apart, arm just dangled and dropped so i had to replace the switch from the old mech to the new one before finally getting it in excellent shape!

#1067 1 year ago
Quoted from iceman44:

Oh man, been down that road brother. It's unreal how a less than 100% functioning Sarco mech and those two switches can negatively affect game play.
For one reason or another i've broken this mech down many times, and its just a POS.
I wouldn't waste any more time, get a new mech from Stern, that's what i finally did. Back to full bliss.
When i got the new mech however, the hidden 3rd leaf switch which rotates the wheel literally fell apart, arm just dangled and dropped so i had to replace the switch from the old mech to the new one before finally getting it in excellent shape!

Has Stern upgraded the mech, or did they just sent you one that worked properly?

#1068 1 year ago
Quoted from Billy16:

Has Stern upgraded the mech, or did they just sent you one that worked properly?

The mech has not been upgraded, but the switch arms are a different design. Instead of the highest part of the arm almost coming to a point, the highest point of the arm is flat and longer on the new design. It allows the lower switch to not have to be in absolute perfect adjustment. The ball can be sensed much easier no matter which position the sarc is in. There is a pic somewhere in the thread. I'll find it and post the pic.

#1069 1 year ago

The switch on the right has the original factory design arm that most LE's came with. It comes to a point which makes it hard to adjust so that it senses a ball when the sarc is in different positions.

77e201b3435e45147cd7176400387aa385e9cd79.jpeg (resized).jpg
#1070 1 year ago

The switch on the left has the new factory design arm. It's flat at the top instead of coming to a point. I changed to the new design and haven't had a problem since.

If you look at how that switch has to be triggered when the sarc is in different positions, it's pretty easy to see why the new flat design works much better.

b577298f660c148d5ccb38c2bfc80d6d24cd9314 (resized).jpg
#1071 1 year ago

Excellent feedback , Thanks all!

My cherry’s are db3, with the green switch tip. I noticed on pics db2, might be more feather touch.

Right now the balls roll over the actuator, on release to underworld, and register, but the rear one is missed on the MB start exit , any higher, and the ball gets hung up and wont return to #40 on horizontal state mummy hits

Think its time to call for some upgraded stern switches or some old skool home leaf bending again.

#1072 1 year ago
Quoted from Mvfvette1:

The switch on the left has the new factory design arm. It's flat at the top instead of coming to a point. I changed to the new design and haven't had a problem since.
If you look at how that switch has to be triggered when the sarc is in different positions, it's pretty easy to see why the new flat design works much better.
[quoted image]

Using that picture as a guide, one could just re-bend the existing switch arm into that shape I imagine.

#1073 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Using that picture as a guide, one could just re-bend the existing switch arm into that shape I imagine.

That's what I ended up doing, installing an old Williams micro-switch I had on-hand and bending the blade to the correct shape to work. Been great for several months but was a PIA to get right.

#1074 1 year ago

So will the new actuator solve the mummy newton ball switch issue? Mine is fubared. I can adjust it and it will work for a game or two and then right back to not working. Weird because my orb seems to work fine.

#1075 1 year ago
Quoted from jorge5240:

So will the new actuator solve the mummy newton ball switch issue? Mine is fubared. I can adjust it and it will work for a game or two and then right back to not working. Weird because my orb seems to work fine.

It did the trick for me. I had to adjust the leaf a tiny bit after I switched out the actuator, as I was getting phantom hits when I first switched, but the game JustWorks(TM) now for me.

#1076 1 year ago
Quoted from jorge5240:

So will the new actuator solve the mummy newton ball switch issue? Mine is fubared. I can adjust it and it will work for a game or two and then right back to not working. Weird because my orb seems to work fine.

You have to put some blue loctite on it and let it set for 24 hours. Just put a little dab on the threads and then screw the hex post on and tighten it up the best you can and leave it set for 24 hours withiut playing it. If you dont loctite it, it will just keep coming loose again and again and again. The switch itself probably isnt coming out of adjustment, its most likely the hex post coming loose and pushing down on the switch making it too sensitive.

#1077 1 year ago

I've been having issues with the ball registering in the scoop after draining out of the sarcophagus. It will drain and not enter the scoop until I smack the left side of the pin. I can then hear it fall into place and it gets spit out. Anyone encounter this and have a solution? Thanks!

#1078 1 year ago

I had to take my loc premium home to fine tune all the little annoyances that come with Prem/LEs. My game wasn’t 100% perfect until swapping in the rollover switch behind the sarcophagus ball. Cheers to any/all who came up with that idea originally, massive thanks.

I didn’t worry about Cherry nor Williams parts; I just have the standard newer rollover microswitch and it has been flawless in about 30 games. A few more days of “testing” and I can put it back to work for me.

PS: related- my god it is hard to get the responsiveness of the sarcophagus newton ball lock leaf switch pendulum hex rod thingey correct.

#1079 1 year ago
Quoted from ATLpb:

I had to take my loc premium home to fine tune all the little annoyances that come with Prem/LEs. My game wasn’t 100% perfect until swapping in the rollover switch behind the sarcophagus ball. Cheers to any/all who came up with that idea originally, massive thanks.
I didn’t worry about Cherry nor Williams parts; I just have the standard newer rollover microswitch and it has been flawless in about 30 games. A few more days of “testing” and I can put it back to work for me.
PS: related- my god it is hard to get the responsiveness of the sarcophagus newton ball lock leaf switch pendulum hex rod thingey correct.

Did you put blue loctite on the hex post? Once you do that and adjust the switch it should stay put and work good.

#1080 1 year ago
Quoted from ATLpb:

. . . my god it is hard to get the responsiveness of the sarcophagus newton ball lock leaf switch pendulum hex rod thingey correct.

Check out my post #910 above. It's the only way I could get mine to work correctly.

#1081 1 year ago

Don't think I've seen this with the Orb shot on the premium. Stops registering after a while and I noticed that the post (2.0 version) slides right out of the scoop/switch with a hard hit and can't be reset without manually doing it. Spring doesn't seem to reset the ball location either sometimes. It gets stuck and won't spring back unless you hit it again. Problem now though is it wont' go back into the cup/switch.

Edit-Reading back through I may try to unscrew the post a bit so it's longer and unable to get out of the scoop. Also saw a post about lubing the part that is catching and keeping the ball from resetting.

#1082 1 year ago
Quoted from Groo:

Don't think I've seen this with the Orb shot on the premium. Stops registering after a while and I noticed that the post (2.0 version) slides right out of the scoop/switch with a hard hit and can't be reset without manually doing it. Spring doesn't seem to reset the ball location either sometimes. It gets stuck and won't spring back unless you hit it again. Problem now though is it wont' go back into the cup/switch.
Edit-Reading back through I may try to unscrew the post a bit so it's longer and unable to get out of the scoop. Also saw a post about lubing the part that is catching and keeping the ball from resetting.

Check out my post #910 above. It was doing the exact same thing and this was the only way I could get mine to work correctly.

#1083 1 year ago
Quoted from Maide:

It did the trick for me. I had to adjust the leaf a tiny bit after I switched out the actuator, as I was getting phantom hits when I first switched, but the game JustWorks(TM) now for me.

I received my premium on Wednesday. Both Newton balls appeared to work fine out of the box.(The rubber on the small flipper was broken though)
After a couple of games, I noticed the lower Newton false firing a bit and then it stopped registering completely.
It looks like the pointy posts are already installed, although I don't know what the other ones looked like.
The upper ball seems to move more freely than the lower one, but i can't get it to register even manually.
i adjusted the switch and had it working for a game or 2, but now it's back to nothing.

How is that switch supposed to be properly adjusted?
Can anyone confirm what the old posts looked like?
I may have screwed up the leaf switch because I was a bit frustrated.

Thanks for any help you can provide!

#1084 1 year ago

These are my old posts. Make sure your switch is still gapped and not stuck making contact. Go to the switch test menu for this. Also those things need to have loctite on them or you will be fighting them every few games. I had to loctite the mummy captive ball as well because it was coming loose and raising up on the post and putting pressure on the captive lock mechanism.

4B2737FB-AAD5-41B9-B54F-63922A001539 (resized).jpeg
#1085 1 year ago
Quoted from Brootull:

These are my old posts. Make sure your switch is still gapped and not stuck making contact. Go to the switch test menu for this. Also those things need to have loctite on them or you will be fighting them every few games. I had to loctite the mummy captive ball as well because it was coming loose and raising up on the post and putting pressure on the captive lock mechanism.
[quoted image]

Thank you! It does have the new posts. I'm sure the switch is out of whack. Hopefully I didn't screw it up too bad, but I'll mess with it a little later.

Update: I bent the switch back to it's original shape as compared to Mummy switch. I used a small screwdriver to ensure there was a gap, but it didn't start working until I backed off(lengthened) the post that it started registering. I'm sure this isn't a permanent fix, but I'll like post higher scores in the meantime!

#1086 1 year ago
Quoted from 85vett:

It literally takes 30 seconds to take the glass off, open the gap and put the glass back on. 99.9% that is your issue. You could probably look at the switch through the glass and see the gap. If they changed the coil strength for the slings then that would be why it would happen on 1.03 and not 1.02.

My left sling has plenty of gap on the top and bottom switches, and I mean more than I'd usually sent my games too, and it constantly goes off every game.
It's erratic too, which makes it harder to diagnose. I would love to see this as a mechanical issue, but these switch contacts aren't even close to have vibration enter the picture.
Anyone find a solution?

#1087 1 year ago
Quoted from hank35:

My left sling has plenty of gap on the top and bottom switches, and I mean more than I'd usually sent my games too, and it constantly goes off every game.
It's erratic too, which makes it harder to diagnose. I would love to see this as a mechanical issue, but these switch contacts aren't even close to have vibration enter the picture.
Anyone find a solution?

There are 2 solutions to it and you quoted one of them. The other was to reduce the power. Keep in mind a sling will not fire unless one of the two switches closes. If it does then neither solution will work as you have another mechanical problem.

#1088 1 year ago
Quoted from hank35:

My left sling has plenty of gap on the top and bottom switches, and I mean more than I'd usually sent my games too, and it constantly goes off every game.
It's erratic too, which makes it harder to diagnose. I would love to see this as a mechanical issue, but these switch contacts aren't even close to have vibration enter the picture.
Anyone find a solution?

Turn the sling power down in the settings until they fix the software. They messed it up with the latest update.

#1089 1 year ago
Quoted from Mtg381:

I received my premium on Wednesday. Both Newton balls appeared to work fine out of the box.(The rubber on the small flipper was broken though)
After a couple of games, I noticed the lower Newton false firing a bit and then it stopped registering completely.
It looks like the pointy posts are already installed, although I don't know what the other ones looked like.
The upper ball seems to move more freely than the lower one, but i can't get it to register even manually.
i adjusted the switch and had it working for a game or 2, but now it's back to nothing.
How is that switch supposed to be properly adjusted?
Can anyone confirm what the old posts looked like?
I may have screwed up the leaf switch because I was a bit frustrated.
Thanks for any help you can provide!

It's a damn disgrace that they still insist on sending this out this way, with no reworked/fixed mechanism. Seems like every special "mech" on a premium / le has an issue, regardless of title.

#1090 1 year ago
Quoted from Guinnesstime:

It's a damn disgrace that they still insist on sending this out this way, with no reworked/fixed mechanism. Seems like every special "mech" on a premium / le has an issue, regardless of title.

They are still putting in the plastic post on MET instead of the metal one that doesnt work the way it should and that game has been out six years! I would really just like to ask them in person why the F that they are doing this KNOWING that the game doesnt work properly with the plastic post. I mean seriously, WTF???

But yeah, the Newton ball switches are horrible!

#1091 1 year ago
Quoted from Who-Dey:

They are still putting in the plastic post on MET instead of the metal one

The metal one isn’t a guaranteed solution either. Code should be changed to only have it come up when you shoot the right orbit. Left orbit should always just go around.

#1092 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

The metal one isn’t a guaranteed solution either. Code should be changed to only have it come up when you shoot the right orbit. Left orbit should always just go around.

Left orbit should go all the way around?? No way. The metal post fixes nearly everyones game. I know there have been a few people that says it didnt fix their game but id like to see that in person to try and figure out why because i went from 100% rejects to 0% rejects so that is proof that its pretty much a guaranteed fix. I didnt just get lucky that it happened. All the metal posts that pinball life sells are the same so i dont know why it would fix my game and do nothing to yours. Stern could and SHOULD put a metal post in MET instead of the nylon posts.

#1093 1 year ago
Quoted from Who-Dey:

Left orbit should go all the way around?? No way. The metal post fixes nearly everyones game. I know there have been a few people that says it didnt fix their game but id like to see that in person to try and figure out why because i went from 100% rejects to 0% rejects so that is proof that its pretty much a guaranteed fix. I didnt just get lucky that it happened. All the metal posts that pinball life sells are the same so i dont know why it would fix my game and do nothing to yours. Stern could and SHOULD put a metal post in MET instead of the nylon posts.

Not trying to turn this into a MET thread, but what post issue are you referring to? I'd love to fix an issue that I might not have known about!

#1094 1 year ago
Quoted from Who-Dey:

Left orbit should go all the way around?? No way.

Yes way. Only way to fix the issue for 100% of the people. Easy fix too. And you can always feed the pops if you want. Just shoot the right orbit.

#1095 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Yes way. Only way to fix the issue for 100% of the people. Easy fix too. And you can always feed the pops if you want. Just shoot the right orbit.

Or the very small percentage of people whos game it doesnt fix could figure out why it didnt fix their game maybe also because it obviously has to be a simple solution.

#1096 1 year ago
Quoted from Mtg381:

Not trying to turn this into a MET thread, but what post issue are you referring to? I'd love to fix an issue that I might not have known about!

Here is your fix....enjoy playing your game the way it was intended to play! Its the post at the top of the left orbit that you hit and your ball comes rollong back down the orbit. Its not supposed to do that.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/metallica-owners-thread/page/46#post-2277072

#1097 1 year ago

Question.... I just got a IM Pro... The code is 1.0.. I see that on Sterns site, the latest is 1.04. But when i click on the link to download it, it looks like a word doc file not a zip file. Do i need to install the other codes first prior to 1.04?

#1098 1 year ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

Question.... I just got a IM Pro... The code is 1.0.. I see that on Sterns site, the latest is 1.04. But when i click on the link to download it, it looks like a word doc file not a zip file. Do i need to install the other codes first prior to 1.04?

No, just the 1.04 code

#1099 1 year ago
Quoted from Who-Dey:

No, just the 1.04 code

Correct. And click the top link, not the READ ME file.

#1100 1 year ago
Quoted from Mtg381:

Correct. And click the top link, not the READ ME file.

I clicked on the top file.. When its done downloading, it ask me how do i want to open it. Its never done this before on downloads

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