Mine is perfect 150 games so far.

Thats what i like to hear. If mine comes all messed up i may have to fly iceman in from Texas to repair my sarcophagus!

Never had this issue. I had auto-plunge issues but I got them sorted out.

You will be fine man...... If not the wifey and I may take a trip out to Put in Bay in a few weeks.

I had issues with mine, initially upper sarc switch was too stiff, then after adjustment it was not sensitive enough. I adjusted without pulling out entire mech (rough adjustment by just pulling or pushing switch lever with fingers) and seems to be working fine now. I have roller switches (b/w ones) on standby if it starts getting out of whack again but so far so good.

Had a few ball hang up's the first one when fly's up the ramp and lands on the left side. Happened to me like 4 times in 20 or so games. It really gets wedged in there good, no amount of shaking or tilting would be any use.. Trying to find an elegant solution... any ideas?

The second one only happened once and shouldn't be a problem putting one of those rubber stopper things up there to keep it out of that groove.

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I also noticed the mummy newton ball thing stopped working within the first 10 or so games. I tried readjusting the gap over and over... no matter what I couldn't get it right. I finally swapped out the switch with a B/W N.O. EOS's (think the reason they didn't use regular switches is if you don't gap it right, it double hits a lot easier). I also added the other part of the switch to the EOS - the one that helps keep the smaller contact in place.
Was able to gap it pretty easily, it works perfect now without double hits.

I had to do the same thing to my wolverine figure in X-Men after it got off kilter. That's been working great as well ever since.

Now I'm having some issues with the orb newton ball, my fault for messing with it because it was working perfectly. These newton ball things are all using the newer pointy post btw.

Looks like a couple hex risers with a custom piece of PETG there will be required to stop it from getting down there in the first place. If you've got some PETG around, probably 30 minutes work to fit, then cut and drill it.

so I had the switches adjusted and my IMDN is on fire - what an epic game, and just scored my highest score!

yeah, I was thinking something along those lines. surprised this wasn't an issue at the factory. Luckily I had a few different sizes.
I'll definitely look at putting some type of clear plastic there, not my forte but think it could look nice.

finished installing a generic spike 2 cliffy and mylar, that was somewhat of a pain.
had to drill it out, due to the extra hole for the ball guide. Then shave it down big time at the trough area, otherwise it would jet to far out in the shooter lane.
(The balls were getting caught coming back down).
now launch/ auto launch is messed up... guess I moved the ball guide to far up...having NGG flashbacks .
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Hocuslocus, which part numbers did you buy? I need to go this route now myself.

Thanks!

pretty sure it was this one.
https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=261

regardless it doesn't really matter as long as the switch is long enough and the contacts are gold plated (something with low resistance), leafs long enough and contacts are bigger it doesn't really matter. they can't be tungsten contact switches as the resistance is to high.

those line / \ switches seem to work fine on the pops, but I was having a lot of trouble with them on the newton balls.

the picture is a little out of focus, but you need to adjust it to where there is almost no gap. beware with making the gap to small cause other stuff will set it off. Finally wound up doing the same thing to my orb, works great now. you also need to put a little pressure on the hex pointy spacer with the first contact.
Had a lot of issues with my orb ball getting stuck in a slanted position, think it's a spring problem though (needed a little more force to push it up).

as you can see I used all the parts from the other switch, I only replaced the contact parts. I'm sure there is a premade W/B pop switch you can try, but since I already had the EOS switches on hand, I choose the former. the nice thing about the bigger contacts is it's easier to set the sensitivity.
With the \ / contact switch it makes it hit and miss, unless the ball is hit with enough force or you got phantom hits.
https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3290
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Thanks a ton bro for the excellent info!

What brand inclinometer are people using?

I just use a phone app.

Apple.

New cars typically come with pretty awesome warranties. Unlike pinball, no need to pop the hood and fiddle with the parts.

In addition, most new cars are rock solid. Unlike pinball, where brand new games have flawed mechs and require tinkering from the moment you open the box.

snaroff

Just tried to find a Bowen tutorial. Has he done one for Iron Maiden?

Anyone elses auto-plunge seem to be working better after the latest code update?

No.

absolutely not.

No. It has always been a problem since I got the game. There does not seem to be any solution. Adjusting the shooter lane guide works for a while, then it doesn't. Wax does change things - but not always for the best. I am afraid of trying to do anything more without really screwing something up. For me, the inconsistency/randomness of the auto-plunge has become part of the game and I just play on and not let it prevent me from enjoying an otherwise awesome pinball machine.

Perhaps a defeatist attitude, but it doesn't appear that Stern is stepping up to find a solution that is a permanent fix.

I'm fortunate to have auto plunge working 90-100% however manual plunge when I set the game up couldn't even get out the shooter lane.The tip was hitting the ball low right side.
Anyway I undid the 3 screws,adjusted and it kept bricking,it just didn't have enough adjustment.
In the end I completely removed the assembly moved it left and up tightened one bolt and it worked 100%.Then just put the rest of the bolts and two screws back in.
If you turn this scenario around could it be the auto plunger is not striking the ball correctly causing these bricks.
Just a thought.

Could be. I am afraid with my mechanical skills that once I start working on something, I will be calling someone in to put it back together. Skills inherited from my father. I remember coming home one weekend from college to find my mother's dryer in pieces on the basement floor because my dad was trying to figure out why it wasn't working right. When I came home the next time my dad said he fixed the dryer problem. I asked what was wrong with it. He said he didn't know, so he bought a new one and solved the problem.

Set it up so the ball shoots slightly high and hold up the top flipper. This gives me about 85%. Works well enough. I always shoot for the center target skill shot, so the manual plunge doesn't matter much. There will never be a fix because it's basic physics. If you nudge, which you should, the level on your game will change each time. That is what I find makes the most difference, and it's just not fixable.

Weird... so the last thing I did was squeeze the forks of the auto-plunger together with a decent amount of force. I didn't think that helped much, but maybe after it settled a bit, it did actually help. May be worth a shot.

I keep messing around with this and think the autoplunger puts some topspin variability into the launch. I think this may explain why adjusting the upper part of the shooter lane doesn’t hold up. Tonight I took everything apart and reassembled it with millimeter adjustments of the top of the shooter lane. It’s either good on the manual plunger or on autoplunger but not both. So I tried making the autoplunger Mech smoother where it contacts the ball...no better. Then I put furniture floor protectors on the inside of the autoplunger where it contacts the ball, using a razor to cut it down. Now both work perfectly, adjusting to the manual plunger. I’ll keep watching to see if this is the solution, at least on my game, hopefully others too!

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You'll have to replace those about once a week. I tried that on an older pin (when I was new to pinball) to protect the ball from scratching. Lots of force right there wears them down or moves them quickly.

That makes sense. If it keeps working, I may experiment with other materials, like rubber.

For anyone waiting on the new pointed newton ball actuating arms--I was told by David they are back ordered, unknown how long it will take for them to arrive.

Yes, the ball is touched evenly on both sides before and after I put the pads on. This seems to be working but time will tell. I'll be interested in whether your fix is sustained or changes over time. My experience has been to make an adjustment and then after a time the ball path changes again. I've been trying to figure out what the variable is. For now, at least, I am thinking that more friction from scratches on the ball, rail, etc may produce more topspin. A slow motion video would sort that out. Let us know what happens with your fix!

My autoplunger has a small amount of side to side play so that it automatically moves to center on the ball when it comes to rest. Do yours that arehot resting on center have any side to side movement or is the adjustment maxed out?

My auto plunge is almost laughable. Sometimes it hits the loop, usually not. Now it is hitting so far down the post on occasion it is almost sad. There does not seem to be much auto or "learning" (as Chas said it will do) going on with the plunger.

I played with the "prongs" and widened them a bit, still touching the ball on either side. That seems to work as well. If you make it too wide, the ball rests on the manual plunger, so it has to be just right. Now to see if it is sustained...

With mine I had to mess with the ball guide rail. Had to push that son of bitch all the way forward while tightening the screw (might be different depending on placement of screw from the factory). think the only other thing I'd look at is power... pretty sure I had to turn it up a few notches.
obviously, if your game isn't level, it won't matter. Phone apps are meh, the repeatability isn't there and I've found the level can be different depending on what phone or app you use.

I try to get the table below .05 - side to side at a couple points. That's a pretty high standard, but my logic is people will move these machines and eventually it'll throw off the level even more, better to start at a low side to side incline.... some games it's more important and noticeable then others.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002LL0BIC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage
Leveling a machine is super basic and probably one of the most important things, but a lot of people seem to miss the mark on it for some reason.

works almost 100% of the time now, with a few not making it because the autolaunch fires before the ball is in place.. in multiball, but that's even a rare occurrence.

Was this new pointy thing supposed to be a known fix for these? I guess I need to call and see about getting a set.

Yes it is.

Well, after messing around extensively with the shooter lane, autoplunger mech, etc, I’ve found a reliable and simple fix: just widen the lane. With every adjustment, there would ultimately be too much variability and the ball would bounce back. Without going over all that, two things. Make sure the manual plunger is perfect, which could require an upper shooter lane adjustment, but probably not. Then, just move the top left flipper up a bit to widen the lane. That was always my last option and should have been the first. It is flawless now, played it a ton, fast and smooth, like the Swiss watch I had initially.

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Can anyone chime in on this issue. When I shoot a ball into the Sarcophagus lock, it just dumps the ball down into the ramp. I have checked the motor and switches and they seem good.. any advise?

I would re-install the software on the game. Do a complete with confirm or whatever.

I found the issue, it was the switch in the front #40 right next to the captive ball. I have adjusted it to work, but now the ball kinda gets hung up on it. What shitty switches.

Iron Maiden Mummy/Orb Switch Fix

LE owner here. The Mummy switch did not work reliably out of the box. Adjusting the leaf gave me only hits from the front, not the sides, hence I had even under best adjustments only 40% trigger rate.

Looked at the switch and sure enough: the plastic rider cap was NOT center to the stem above (or underneath, depending on POV).

Fix: remove switch, "dry fit" and find correct location and alignment. Keep in mind that you want to reset your leaf gap while doing this. Once aligned drill one pilot hole.

Good idea to install a stop to your bit.

Now only install the screw closer to the stem first. You have now a few degrees "adjustment room" to center the plastic rider dead on top. The harder you drive the screw into the wood the "closer" the switch will get to the stem"

Once centered drill the second hole and install the second screw as a torsion stop (meaning, bolt down but keep in eye on your switch, you do not want it to be swiveled back out of center)

Done. I now have 100% hit rate without having to install the pointy stem.
I am not a fan of the pointy stem as it will lead to faster wear. No biggie at home, would suck on location.
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Only a few issues so far (maybe 50 games played):
- Ball getting stuck between sarcophagus and right ramp (like mentioned by others)
- start button not working at all, replacing switch did nothing, appears to be the lamp, replaced the original by a very short self modified led and now it works
- newton ball at left (power orb) keeps registering continuous hits, but not all the time (not solved yet)
- loopshot with the small flipper almost impossible, only ricochet hits loop sometimes, but maybe it's just me
- lot of times the ball hits the small flipper when getting launched (flipper tip is exactly center at the hole in the playfield)

Can you explain what you mean buy bending left shooter lane guide to the center? Are you saying towward the center of the shooter lane so the ball Is better guided toward the right rail when it discharges the lane to the left loop and therefore clears the upper left flipper?

Yes that's right. Note that it doesn't bend very much, only very slightly. I wasn't expecting much, but something I did during that adjustment worked for me. I figured it couldn't hurt.

Every time I hit the flipper its registering 25000. Its making the sound effect that the slings make. I checked all those leaf switches and they seem to be fine. What am I missing? Thanks!

Put the game in switch test mode with the glass off then hit the playfield sharply various places with the palm of your hand to create vibration. Note which switch is triggered on the switch test screen by the vibration and adjust that one (or those ones).

Are you sure it is the slings sound, and not the lower captive ball sound? That's what was happening to me, and it was due to the lower captive ball needing to be re-gapped.

Same here. Opened up the gap just a smidge to correct the issue.