(Topic ID: 217498)

Iron Maiden issues

By rvdv

5 years ago


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#701 5 years ago
Quoted from FlipMyBalls:

I truly hope you find a good solution for this but LOL I have to admit for some reason this problem made me laugh this morning... I'm definitely overtired haha

I didn’t think it was funny at all - until I decided this problem should be termed ‘Flaccid Eddie’

#702 5 years ago
Quoted from Guinnesstime:

How in the world could that happen? I mean, aside from taking a hair dryer to it.

It’s possible it got warm in my garage but really doubt hot enough to cause this - but you never know. I move the pins into the air conditioned house when it gets above 90 degrees. Funny enough I was thinking of fixing it with a hair dryer, something I used to do when miniature gaming.

#703 5 years ago

I gotta think if you call Chas and/or send him a photo he'll have a good laugh and send you another one.

#704 5 years ago

My premium just came today, and it looks like it has the full slate of problems...

Does anyone have pictures of both the new/old newton ball actuators? I want to see which mine has, I'm guessing the old ones. Right now both of them false to any vibration at all. The minute you hit the start button, the mummy ball fires twice and the tomb opens.

Also, to the people contacting stern support, what is the best way to reach them? Is there an online form to use, or should I just call them?

Machine also came with a nice gouge and chip in the back of the cabinet, but since I didn't notice there was a slit in the box until after I signed for it, I guess I'm screwed on that one.

#705 5 years ago

Don't have a photo, but if they are fully rounded on the bottom they are the old ones. Sounds like your leaf gaps are incorrect, take a look at both at set them with a really small gap, try it and repeat if that doesn't fix the issue. May take a couple of tries, as there is a really narrow range of gap that is acceptable.

#706 5 years ago

Yeah, mine are definitely the older newton actuators. I guess I better call stern.

What is the best way to adjust these leaf switches? Thin pliers?

Looks like my sarcophagus lock switches don't work reliably either, time to order those rollover switches.

#707 5 years ago

I finally broke down and bought a leaf switch adjustor tool, as it is really hard to get the tiny gap on the newton balls right without it. When I adjusted mine I tried a really small set of needle nose pliers, then used a toothpick and my fingers. Its hard without the tool.

#708 5 years ago
Quoted from DML1001:

Yeah, mine are definitely the older newton actuators. I guess I better call stern.
What is the best way to adjust these leaf switches? Thin pliers?
Looks like my sarcophagus lock switches don't work reliably either, time to order those rollover switches.

leaf adjustment tool:

https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1518

L contact tool is cheaper:

http://www.pbresource.com/tools.html

#709 5 years ago

Got the game!
taking everything off the playfield and cleaning it... installing plastic protectors, shooter lane cliff etc.
looks like it came with the newer newton ball stuff and haven't had any issues with the sarcophagus lock

only issue thus far is a couple paint smears, you know how you notice the smallest defect and your eyes keep going back to it over and over .

ORB paint smear (resized).jpegORB paint smear (resized).jpegRevive paint smear (resized).jpegRevive paint smear (resized).jpeg
#710 5 years ago

Regarding the shooter. I had mine dialed in very nice to work 90+% auto plunge and 95%+ manual plunge. I then sold a pin and rearranged my room for a better 3-pin fit moving IMDN over about 6 inches. I then had shooter problems again and spent countless hours trying to get it re-adjusted to how it was but just couldn’t do it.

That said, weeks later, i ‘think’ I got it dialed back in finally *knocks on wood*. This thread helped a lot in solving the issue because like a lot of others have posted is I would make adjustments then manually kick a ball in the trough over and over and watch it work. Then, start a game and watch it fail over and over. Very frustrating.

In the end; i put the auto plunge power to 245 (down from 255 default) and I adjusted the shooter lane end to be in the furthest open position by loosening the screw that holds it in place and apply a good amount of pressure with my thumb while tightening the screw back in place. I’ll double check my pitch but last I checked it was roughly 7deg. I think another part of my issue is my games are on carpet so when I move a game it takes a couple weeks for the weight and game to settle in. Lucky for me, I’m moving in a couple weeks and get to experience this all over again as I re-dial it in on hardwood floors.

In either case, hope my tips help someone out there as it is a finicky pos shooter lol.

#711 5 years ago

In short, TLDR: don’t test your auto plunge with the game not running. Adjust, test play game, adjust, test play game, etc... tedious but effective.

-40
#712 5 years ago

Issues? The main issue with this game is that it completely SUCKS! One of Stern's worst pins since the early 2000's. Unsatisfying shots, pathetic DMD animations and really nothing to shoot for. Oooooh that shot off the center back wall as the ball drops to the playfield is so enjoyable! I really don't see the fascination with this game. A rushed project slapped with a great license like Iron Maiden. Premium & LE really offer absolutely nothing over the pro model for an extra $2500. Iron Maiden the band & Eddie ROCK....this pinball machine on the other hand started as Archer a great concept that was never improved upon by the execs at Stern, given a license just to sell units.......I've never been more disappointed in a pinball machine launch.....EVER!

#713 5 years ago
Quoted from Chicoman:

Issues? The main issue with this game is that it completely SUCKS! One of Stern's worst pins since the early 2000's. Unsatisfying shots, pathetic DMD animations and really nothing to shoot for. Oooooh that shot off the center back wall as the ball drops to the playfield is so enjoyable! I really don't see the fascination with this game. A rushed project slapped with a great license like Iron Maiden. Premium & LE really offer absolutely nothing over the pro model for an extra $2500. Iron Maiden the band & Eddie ROCK....this pinball machine on the other hand started as Archer a great concept that was never improved upon by the execs at Stern, given a license just to sell units.......I've never been more disappointed in a pinball machine launch.....EVER!

#714 5 years ago
Quoted from Chicoman:

Issues? The main issue with this game is that it completely SUCKS! One of Stern's worst pins since the early 2000's. Unsatisfying shots, pathetic DMD animations and really nothing to shoot for. Oooooh that shot off the center back wall as the ball drops to the playfield is so enjoyable! I really don't see the fascination with this game. A rushed project slapped with a great license like Iron Maiden. Premium & LE really offer absolutely nothing over the pro model for an extra $2500. Iron Maiden the band & Eddie ROCK....this pinball machine on the other hand started as Archer a great concept that was never improved upon by the execs at Stern, given a license just to sell units.......I've never been more disappointed in a pinball machine launch.....EVER!

::kisses fingers:: now that’s some good pinside!

#715 5 years ago
Quoted from Chicoman:

Issues? The main issue with this game is that it completely SUCKS! One of Stern's worst pins since the early 2000's. Unsatisfying shots, pathetic DMD animations and really nothing to shoot for. Oooooh that shot off the center back wall as the ball drops to the playfield is so enjoyable! I really don't see the fascination with this game. A rushed project slapped with a great license like Iron Maiden. Premium & LE really offer absolutely nothing over the pro model for an extra $2500. Iron Maiden the band & Eddie ROCK....this pinball machine on the other hand started as Archer a great concept that was never improved upon by the execs at Stern, given a license just to sell units.......I've never been more disappointed in a pinball machine launch.....EVER!

You said basically the same thing 11 days ago in the Pro/Premium poll thread. Are you really that desperate to troll the fans of this game?

#716 5 years ago
Quoted from Chicoman:

Issues? The main issue with this game is that it completely SUCKS! One of Stern's worst pins since the early 2000's. Unsatisfying shots, pathetic DMD animations and really nothing to shoot for. Oooooh that shot off the center back wall as the ball drops to the playfield is so enjoyable! I really don't see the fascination with this game. A rushed project slapped with a great license like Iron Maiden. Premium & LE really offer absolutely nothing over the pro model for an extra $2500. Iron Maiden the band & Eddie ROCK....this pinball machine on the other hand started as Archer a great concept that was never improved upon by the execs at Stern, given a license just to sell units.......I've never been more disappointed in a pinball machine launch.....EVER!

Hmm.. no dmd. Maybe you clicked on Iron Maiden by accident instead of Dirty Hairy?

#717 5 years ago
Quoted from Chicoman:

Issues? The main issue with this game is that it completely SUCKS! One of Stern's worst pins since the early 2000's. Unsatisfying shots, pathetic DMD animations and really nothing to shoot for. Oooooh that shot off the center back wall as the ball drops to the playfield is so enjoyable! I really don't see the fascination with this game. A rushed project slapped with a great license like Iron Maiden. Premium & LE really offer absolutely nothing over the pro model for an extra $2500. Iron Maiden the band & Eddie ROCK....this pinball machine on the other hand started as Archer a great concept that was never improved upon by the execs at Stern, given a license just to sell units.......I've never been more disappointed in a pinball machine launch.....EVER!

Now might be the time to buy one of the 48 pins on your wish list

#718 5 years ago
Quoted from Billy16:

Anyone have a good adhesive they have used to affix the rubber bumpers to the top/front of the head? Mine both came off during shipment.

Same thing happened on mine. Plus I got the added bonus of damage to the backbox head because the rubber was missing.

#719 5 years ago

Me too. Called Chaz he sent a new one. They said they are using CA to put them on so that’s what I did. Crap set up if ya ask me

#720 5 years ago
Quoted from hoby1:

Me too. Called Chaz he sent a new one. They said they are using CA to put them on so that’s what I did. Crap set up if ya ask me

What is "CA"? Mine got squished and moved. I'll be moving them back to original position and was going to se 3M double-sided tape.

#721 5 years ago
Quoted from crwjumper:

What is "CA"? Mine got squished and moved. I'll be moving them back to original position and was going to se 3M double-sided tape.

I assume cyanoacrylate. Which seems like a very strange choice as it doesn't have good shear strength. It also doesn't work well on smooth surfaces.

#722 5 years ago

Yep. Super glue. That’s what Chaz told me

#723 5 years ago

Anyone try clear silicone adhesive?

#724 5 years ago
Quoted from hoby1:

Me too. Called Chaz he sent a new one. They said they are using CA to put them on so that’s what I did. Crap set up if ya ask me

Absolutely stupid. On my Star Wars they have nubs on them that slot into the holes. Works much better than some shitty adhesive. I really wonder why they make such stupid decisions like this. Maybe it saves them 0.001 cents per game sold or something.

#725 5 years ago
Quoted from hoby1:

Me too. Called Chaz he sent a new one. They said they are using CA to put them on so that’s what I did. Crap set up if ya ask me

Try the CA gel glue. It takes longer to dry so you might have to tape it up for awhile but It really works well on rubber.

#726 5 years ago
Quoted from flashburn:

Absolutely stupid. On my Star Wars they have nubs on them that slot into the holes. Works much better than some shitty adhesive. I really wonder why they make such stupid decisions like this. Maybe it saves them 0.001 cents per game sold or something.

These also have nubs.

#727 5 years ago
Quoted from hoby1:

These also have nubs.

huh, didn't really notice they weren't the nub ones....
just recently got a batman that looks the same, without nubs.

might be cheaper not to have to drill the holes?
maybe they had issues with the nubs ones, so they transitioned to the adhesive ones?

#728 5 years ago

Backbox rubber pad installation
• Clean the surface of the backbox where the rubber pads are to be installed.

• Apply a few drops of Super or Krazy glue to the back of the rubber pad as indicated.

• Line up the (3) pegs on the backside of the rubber pad with the (3) holes on the backbox.

• Apply pressure to the rubber pad until the glue cures.

Attachment that was sent along with the email

#729 5 years ago

Who here has successfully replaced their sarcophagus switch with the williams rollover microswitch that was recommended on pages 2/3?

I just tried, and it was NOT fun... Despite my grumbling here, I mean no offense to the people who recommended this. I'm sure the replacement worked fine for them, and I appreciate that they posted info on their fix here.

So, to start with, just getting access to the sarcophagus switches is a complete pain. Even with a switch adjuster tool, I couldn't find any way to get access to the original microswitches to adjust them without removing the entire sarcophagus mechanism. So, I started to disassemble the mech and pull it out from the bottom. To do this, you need to:

-Unplug the 3 connectors to the sarcophagus mechanism
-Unscrew the newton ball actuator from the mummy newton ball
-Remove 4 wood screws holding the mechanism to the playfield
-Undo 4 nuts around the captive ball mechanism
-Remove a metal plate from the captive ball mech
-Unscrew a circular disk from the captive ball mech

At this point, the spring popped part of the captive ball mech apart, and a few parts went flying. It took me a while to locate everything, and I'm still not sure I have all of the parts put back together properly.

Finally, you can remove the ball lock assembly. If there is a better way to do this, please mention it here for the benefit of anyone else doing this.

So, now I discover that its impossible to get access to the microswitches since the sarcophagus mech was in the down position when I took it out. Great. I guess I should have paid more attention to that before I started

OK, so I plug the mechanism back in since its impossible to adjust the lever arm by hand and I didn't want to dismantle any more of the mechanism than I had to. I let the game reset the ball lock to the up position, and then take it out again. On to the fun part.

Unscrew the bar holding the rollover switches. Test the bottom switch that wasn't working, and yep, it's defective. It fails to register most of the time when depressed, and it feels stiff. So, I decide to swap it for one of the williams rollover switches.

Remove the cable tie, cut off the old microswitch as close to the lugs as possible, remove the heat shrink tubing. Put new heat shrink tubing on the wires, solder on the new switch, re-mount everything, tidy the wires back up. I've attached a photo of my attempted repair.

So, I put this back into the lock mechanism and do some basic testing with the ball. This new switch is WAY too stiff. The ball doesn't roll smoothly over it at all, it gets caught on it. I tried bending the lever arm a bit, but I can't find any position that actually contacts the ball properly without offering too much resistance. I got it as close as I could and then tried putting the assembly back together to do some testing in game.

I bought 3 of these williams switches from marco, and I compared the one I installed to the other two. The resistance is identical, so its not just that one switch that is too stiff. I was also very careful not to over tighten the metal screws. I just tightened until there was some gentle resistance.

Well, despite my best attempt at adjusting the switch, the new switch is still trapping the ball half the time. It usually has enough momentum to roll down the assembly when it first drops in, but then when you hit the mummy ball and the captive ball rolls up the ramp a little, it gets stuck on the switch. At this point, you're hosed as far as the sarcophagus lock goes since its impossible to dislodge the captive ball (which is no longer resting against the newton ball).

Furthermore, Stern barely left any slack on the wires in this assembly (normally a good thing I guess), so when I had to shorten them to solder on the new switch it made the cable slightly too short to reach the connector without straining it. My soldering was also a little sloppy and the wires are coming off the lugs of the new switch at a bad angle. This makes them bump into the lever arm when the lock lowers to dump the ball out, and they will probably break off if I don't redo the connection. Since there isn't enough slack in the wire now, I'll have to try to lengthen the wires.

Anyone have any suggestions as to what to do now? I think I'm going to have to call stern and beg for a complete new assembly. Not sure if they will charge me at this point since it was technically a botched repair attempt on my part that really messed up the mech. I had no idea this process would be such a pain. I probably should have known better than to try it, but now that I did I'm not sure if I can get this working again w/o a new mechanism from stern.

Please post here if you did this repair and had it work out. If I am the only one who botched it, that's one thing, but if only a few people have actually tried this successfully it might be a good idea for anyone else reading this thread to proceed with caution.

20180713_225514 (resized).jpg20180713_225514 (resized).jpg

#730 5 years ago

So I just spent another 30 minutes fiddling with the switch. I am convinced that with the 3 switches I got from marco, that there is no possible way to adjust these things so that they will work. I've tried the lever arm on both attachment points and bent in over 20 different ways, and there is no way to get the thing adjusted so that the arm is high enough to activate the switch when the ball is in position without creating so much resistance that the ball is obstructed by the switch.

The way I'm testing this with the assembly out of the game is the following:
-I connected the motor back up and lowered it to the unload position
-I am holding the metal plate that attaches to the under side of the playfield against a board that I have at the same slant as the playfield
-I placed the newton ball in the holder at the bottom of the mechanism
-I then tap the ball so it rolls up the lock and back down

It gets trapped by the switch every time and fails to return to the bottom and rest against the newton ball

Edit: Gave it another few hours of tinkering. After my best attempt of the night, I installed the mech back into the machine. Sadly, the switch still traps the ball, and to make matters worse, the switch doesn't even register now when the sarcophagus is raised to the highest position (I didn't realize when testing manually how much of a difference there is in the ball's resting position depending on the angle). This is especially frustrating to test since you need to power the motor up to test the different positions.

Tomorrow I am going to disassemble everything again and order a replacement switch of the original design, and then start all over again.

Here is a quick video of the issue
https://photos.app.goo.gl/vgt81w2sqHjBdaow6

Unless a lot of people chime in with success stories, I would HIGHLY recommend that no one else attempt using this specific switch in the sarcophagus lock.

#731 5 years ago

Man,
You’re really going to be bummed out to find that you should’ve soldered the new roller switch to replace the UPPER one, (by your fingers) and NOT the lower one...
Like so:
4B916C51-BB98-46A4-8C62-0243D998CC35 (resized).jpeg4B916C51-BB98-46A4-8C62-0243D998CC35 (resized).jpeg
The stock lower one works fine for the most part.

On the bright side, you can always adjust that stock flat upper switch when the sarcophagus is in the up position and completely assembled in game, if you don’t want to try a second attemp.

#732 5 years ago

If you check the photo from DG_Amuse back on page 2, he replaced the bottom switch (the side where the 4 wires enter is the bottom switch). You can also tell that his switch is on the opposite side as yours because in both of your photos the roller switch is on the left, but the U shaped notch is reversed since he has the metal piece rotated 180 degrees.

Regardless, I ran the diagnostic on my game, and I'm certain the bottom switch was the one that didn't work in my game.

It blows my mind that stern would make an assembly with switches that are so difficult to access, and then not even bother to properly test the assembly in the factory to make sure it works properly.

Quoted from NimblePin:

Man,
You’re really going to be bummed out to find that you should’ve soldered the new roller switch to replace the UPPER one, (by your fingers) and NOT the lower one...
Like so:

The stock lower one works fine for the most part.
On the bright side, you can always adjust that stock flat upper switch when the sarcophagus is in the up position and completely assembled in game, if you don’t want to try a second attemp.

#733 5 years ago

It wasn’t the bottom switch.
The new flat upper switch is the culprit.
For some reason, they switched the switch after the first run of LE to what you and I have which is a flat switch instead of an angled switch that matched the lower one. (See Stern LE promo video to see what I mean...)
The flat upper switch needs more of a bow form to register the entrance rollover and eject/launch correctly. When the sarcophagus is flat, the switch will of course register fine. In the up position however...no dice!
The rollover switch in Russel’s above pic is the correct use of the roller.

Not saying you can’t use two rollers to solve your problem but, in my premium and others from the first run batches the lower switch was “usually” registering 100% AND the better choice for the captured ball to sit flush against the newton.

Like I said, you can manually make a bow in the flat one and re-adjust the switch after the tweak all in game without taking the mech apart again if the sarcophagus is in the up position.
Just listen closely to the click of the microswitch after using your leaf adjustment tool, to get a nice+sensitive response.
Otherwise you’ll end up with premature end game drains again.

Also,
Don’t forget to call for your free pointy hex posts for the 360 newtons while you have the hood open.

#734 5 years ago

I'm not disagreeing about what the issue was in your machine, but in my case the problem was definitely the lower switch. I also overlapped your photo with DG_Amuse's original photo on page 2 to show that you have the switch on the opposite side of the metal bracket:

I'm not trying to get into an argument with you (and I do appreciate you replying), but unless I'm missing something here, you and DG_Amuse (whose post I was following) replaced opposite switches.

Regardless, this is mostly beside the point now. My problem is that this roller switch in the lower position doesn't work properly since it traps the ball, and I want to warn anyone else against trying this type of switch in the lower position unless several other people can confirm that they also tried it and had it work.

photo comparison2 (resized).jpgphoto comparison2 (resized).jpg
#735 5 years ago
Quoted from DML1001:

you and DG_Amuse (whose post I was following) replaced opposite switches.

Yes. You are correct. My roller replacement is on the upper. (Like Russel’s)
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/iron-maiden-issues/page/6#post-4434059

I’m pretty sure I’m typing in English, unless I’m super drunk and I don’t know it?

The new flat upper switch is/was the culprit on the premium. Too shallow to register the entrance and final launch hit.
If you look at your pic of DG’s upper switch, it is the earlier LE version/switch I was talking about. Different shape. More angled; matches the old lower one.

Either way DG said he replaced BOTH switches with rollers in the end so.........just do whatcha gotta do DML to get your game running 100%
Always make sure you’re not over torquing your black switch screws to the point where they are limiting the functionality of the switch.

Sacrifice a chicken if need be, or just call Stern to get a replacement mech so your wiring length can go back to factory tolerances if you don’t want to splice in new wire so you can try again.

#736 5 years ago
Quoted from DML1001:

It blows my mind that stern would make an assembly with switches that are so difficult to access

Try getting to the insides of the Gene head on KISS Prem/LE. That's loads of fun, too. Serviceability is not the first design decision at Stern.

#737 5 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Serviceability is not the first design decision at Stern.

Guess you folks havn't done any work on your new cars lately.

#738 5 years ago

I feel DML1001’s pain. I think I may have been the first to try the rollerball technique. I initially replaced both (and yes, it was a painful process). I got it all back together, and the ball caught on the switches as you described. Eventually, I figured out that the upper switch should be a rollerball, but the lower switch should stay the original (if your lower switch is bad, maybe move the upper one to the lower position?). And the new, upper rollerball switch will still require a little bending to get the level right. Once I got it, I’ve had no more issues, it works 100%. No need for a new mech, imho.

See my posts #188 and #269.

#739 5 years ago

Guys something is driving me nuts, and I'm betting its probably simple but just not sure. This is starting to happen almost every time I get a multi ball mode, and when I'm down to 2 balls, if 1 then drains, the game thinks all the balls are drained and stops. Is this an issue with the ball trough or something? Anything I can or should check??

#740 5 years ago
Quoted from cscmtp:

Guys something is driving me nuts, and I'm betting its probably simple but just not sure. This is starting to happen almost every time I get a multi ball mode, and when I'm down to 2 balls, if 1 then drains, the game thinks all the balls are drained and stops. Is this an issue with the ball trough or something? Anything I can or should check??

You have one too many balls in the trough or you have a ball trough switch issue most likely.

#741 5 years ago
Quoted from hoby1:

Guess you folks havn't done any work on your new cars lately.

They have pinball cars now?!

#742 5 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

You have one too many balls in the trough or you have a ball trough switch issue most likely.

Well I haven't added any new balls, and it used to work fine the first month, so guessing its a switch issue. Can you give me any pointers how to fix or do I need Stern to send me a replacement?

#743 5 years ago
Quoted from cscmtp:

Guys something is driving me nuts, and I'm betting its probably simple but just not sure. This is starting to happen almost every time I get a multi ball mode, and when I'm down to 2 balls, if 1 then drains, the game thinks all the balls are drained and stops. Is this an issue with the ball trough or something? Anything I can or should check??

It is most likely a switch issue with your upper switch in the sarcophagus lock. I have had the same issue since setting up my game about a month ago. I have adjusted the switch enough to get it working for a game or two. But it reverts back to messing up mummy multiball every time. The switch is going to have to be replaced or changed to a roller ball switch (see the discussion above on this page).

#744 5 years ago

If the ball hits the top of your right sling when it feeds from the right orbit with no flip on the upper right flipper, you should adjust the flipper alignment. The fact that the feed was dirty was pointed out to me at league. Smallest adjustment and it now feeds the lower right flipper every time.

#745 5 years ago
Quoted from cscmtp:

Well I haven't added any new balls, and it used to work fine the first month, so guessing its a switch issue. Can you give me any pointers how to fix or do I need Stern to send me a replacement?

Remove glass.
Put the game in diag mode menu. Select Clear Ball Trough option (Clear balls? Don't remember) - grab balls as they come out.
Once you have all the balls, exit that and go into switch test mode. Drop one ball at a time in. Do the trough switches all activate as the ball rolls over them (the amount of switches gets less as more balls are stored in the trough)?
If you got the trough loaded and all the switches registered, while in switch test mode, hit the playfield sharply between the slings with an open palm to create vibration. Did any switches activate? Check those.
If not- slide off the 2 pin connector on the ball trough jam opto, widen them so the plug goes back on more snugly.
Play and see if your problem is fixed.

#746 5 years ago
Quoted from Alamo_Pin:

It is most likely a switch issue with your upper switch in the sarcophagus lock. I have had the same issue since setting up my game about a month ago. I have adjusted the switch enough to get it working for a game or two. But it reverts back to messing up mummy multiball every time. The switch is going to have to be replaced or changed to a roller ball switch (see the discussion above on this page).

Ok im new to the game and i have a Premium on the way. Is this switch on the sarcophagus lock bad on ALL of these games and will need to either be replaced or have a roller ball switch put on it, or do some of them work good and some dont?

#747 5 years ago
Quoted from Who-Dey:

Ok im new to the game and i have a Premium on the way. Is this switch on the sarcophagus lock bad on ALL of these games and will need to either be replaced or have a roller ball switch put on it, or do some of them work good and some dont?

No issues at all with mine

#748 5 years ago
Quoted from Who-Dey:

Ok im new to the game and i have a Premium on the way. Is this switch on the sarcophagus lock bad on ALL of these games and will need to either be replaced or have a roller ball switch put on it, or do some of them work good and some dont?

I’d say play it until it doesn’t register anymore

My mech had other issues as well so it got replaced and new one is working, upper and lower switches are fine

Now it’s the motor, one of the switches on the wheel is closing before the mech goes into full down position which traps the ball as it tries to drain through underworld

Not a big deal.

Keep your fingers crossed Who Dey! I’d go ahead and purchase a few BW roller switches anyhow though

#749 5 years ago
Quoted from iceman44:

I’d say play it until it doesn’t register anymore
My mech had other issues as well so it got replaced and new one is working, upper and lower switches are fine
Now it’s the motor, one of the switches on the wheel is closing before the mech goes into full down position which traps the ball as it tries to drain through underworld
Not a big deal.
Keep your fingers crossed Who Dey! I’d go ahead and purchase a few BW roller switches anyhow though

It almost seems like this is a very poor design that they probably knew about but shipped the games anyway. I thought i read somewhere that they went to a different style of switch after the first run of LE’s?

#750 5 years ago
Quoted from iceman44:

I’d say play it until it doesn’t register anymore
My mech had other issues as well so it got replaced and new one is working, upper and lower switches are fine
Now it’s the motor, one of the switches on the wheel is closing before the mech goes into full down position which traps the ball as it tries to drain through underworld
Not a big deal.
Keep your fingers crossed Who Dey! I’d go ahead and purchase a few BW roller switches anyhow though

I wish we lived closer iceman. Id come over and drink your beer and watch you fix it.

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