Toronto, ON
This is glorious. I'll be ordering a couple at some point for sure. Well done!
(Topic ID: 247858)
Linked Games
Addams Family Gold (Special Collectors Edition), The
Bally, 1994-
Addams Family, The
Bally, 1992
-
Attack from Mars
Bally, 1995
-
Black Rose
Bally, 1992
-
Bram Stoker's Dracula
Williams, 1993
-
Cactus Canyon
Bally, 1998
-
Champion Pub
Bally, 1998
-
Cirqus Voltaire
Bally, 1997
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Sydney, Oz
Fort Myers, FL
Quoted from pinballaddicted:Great product, love it. Looks like our TAF could be getting a shaker.
Will this work on 240V games as supplied to Europe and Australia?
Thanks for the interest. We are working on that at the moment to verify everything works as it is supposed to.
Regards,
Robert Goebel
Pinshakers
www.pinshakers.com
Sort of off topic but I'm lacking imagination here. Would someone give me ideas just how well a shaker motor not invoked by code/mode would be successfully implemented? Let's use TAF or FH as the examples. Im old school, too much of a good thing is just that. I couldnt imagine tying into a circuit that is used most of the time and trying to find something that actually makes sense eludes me. Thanks.
Quoted from CLEllison:Sort of off topic but I'm lacking imagination here. Would someone give me ideas just how well a shaker motor not invoked by code/mode would be successfully implemented? Let's use TAF or FH as the examples. Thanks.
Hi CLEllison,
This is a fantastic question and I am really glad you brought it up. One thing to keep in mind with this kit is that the motor doesn't just go off at random by itself. The player has the choice of up to 16 possible triggers between flashers, pop bumpers, slingshots etc. If you think about it, those inputs are indeed invoked by code/mode. The difference with our kit is you get to choose yourself when it is invoked. Manufacturers of new machines are having their shakers go off during a lot of the same scenarios. Take Houdini for example, it's shaker goes off any time the pop bumpers are activated, among others.
As for TAF, here is where you will want to get a little creative. That game is extremely flasher happy, same goes for FH. Seems like whenever a ball hits something every single flasher in the machine cycles. So the end user will want to play through a few games and pay attention to what flashers go off at what times and then select them to activate the motor. Nice thing is you can try out a flasher and if you find that the motor is activating so much that it becomes annoying, you can try a different one. The idea is to get it to feel as if it was always meant to be there. If you can't get it dialed in the way you want, then you have the option to try the other harness with the low power solenoids and see if perhaps the pop bumpers, slingshots, or one of the other triggers has a better "feel" to it and integrates better with the overall gameplay.
As for FH, correct me if I am wrong but isn't there a flasher that only goes off when you hit Rudy with the ball or when he swallows it? If the motor is triggered when you smack that boy in the face and you don't think that is cool, you better check your pulse!
Lastly, we designed the board so that you have a very wide range on the adjustment knob to get the right amount of intensity you are comfortable with. Unlike other shaker motors where you dial them down all the way and they still rattle the fillings in your teeth, ours can be dialed down to the point where it feels more like a force feedback controller for your Playstation or Xbox. Of course, you can crank it up all the way if you do like taking trips to the dentist.. 
Another note, we offer a 30 day no questions asked return of the entire kit. Simply return it to us in the same condition you received it and we will issue you a full refund minus shipping charges. So if you get the kit, and realize it just isn't for you, then you will only be out the shipping.
I think you will find though that the shaker motor kits add a completely new dimension to the game. It really makes it come "alive". It may not be right for every person, or even every game for that matter. However we believe that for the mass majority it will be a really nice improvement.
Hope that Helps,
Best Regards,
Robert Goebel
Pinshakers
www.pinshakers.com
Quoted from robgo777:Hi CLEllison,
This is a fantastic question and I am really glad you brought it up. One thing to keep in mind with this kit is that the motor doesn't just go off at random by itself. The player has the choice of up to 16 possible triggers between flashers, pop bumpers, slingshots etc. If you think about it, those inputs are indeed invoked by code/mode. The difference with our kit is you get to choose yourself when it is invoked. Manufacturers of new machines are having their shakers go off during a lot of the same scenarios. Take Houdini for example, it's shaker goes off any time the pop bumpers are activated, among others.
As for TAF, here is where you will want to get a little creative. That game is extremely flasher happy, same goes for FH. Seems like whenever a ball hits something every single flasher in the machine cycles. So the end user will want to play through a few games and pay attention to what flashers go off at what times and then select them to activate the motor. Nice thing is you can try out a flasher and if you find that the motor is activating so much that it becomes annoying, you can try a different one. The idea is to get it to feel as if it was always meant to be there. If you can't get it dialed in the way you want, then you have the option to try the other harness with the low power solenoids and see if perhaps the pop bumpers, slingshots, or one of the other triggers has a better "feel" to it and integrates better with the overall gameplay.
As for FH, correct me if I am wrong but isn't there a flasher that only goes off when you hit Rudy with the ball or when he swallows it? If the motor is triggered when you smack that boy in the face and you don't think that is cool, you better check your pulse!
Lastly, we designed the board so that you have a very wide range on the adjustment knob to get the right amount of intensity you are comfortable with. Unlike other shaker motors where you dial them down all the way and they still rattle the fillings in your teeth, ours can be dialed down to the point where it feels more like a force feedback controller for your Playstation or Xbox. Of course, you can crank it up all the way if you do like taking trips to the dentist..
Another note, we offer a 30 day no questions asked return of the entire kit. Simply return it to us in the same condition you received it and we will issue you a full refund minus shipping charges. So if you get the kit, and realize it just isn't for you, then you will only be out the shipping.
I think you will find though that the shaker motor kits add a completely new dimension to the game. It really makes it come "alive". It may not be right for every person, or even every game for that matter. However we believe that for the mass majority it will be a really nice improvement.
Hope that Helps,
Best Regards,
Robert Goebel
Pinshakers
www.pinshakers.com
Stock up, you are about to get a flood of orders. Love the hookup...very well thought out.
Quoted from robgo777:Hi CLEllison,
This is a fantastic question and I am really glad you brought it up. One thing to keep in mind with this kit is that the motor doesn't just go off at random by itself. The player has the choice of up to 16 possible triggers between flashers, pop bumpers, slingshots etc. If you think about it, those inputs are indeed invoked by code/mode. The difference with our kit is you get to choose yourself when it is invoked. Manufacturers of new machines are having their shakers go off during a lot of the same scenarios. Take Houdini for example, it's shaker goes off any time the pop bumpers are activated, among others.
As for TAF, here is where you will want to get a little creative. That game is extremely flasher happy, same goes for FH. Seems like whenever a ball hits something every single flasher in the machine cycles. So the end user will want to play through a few games and pay attention to what flashers go off at what times and then select them to activate the motor. Nice thing is you can try out a flasher and if you find that the motor is activating so much that it becomes annoying, you can try a different one. The idea is to get it to feel as if it was always meant to be there. If you can't get it dialed in the way you want, then you have the option to try the other harness with the low power solenoids and see if perhaps the pop bumpers, slingshots, or one of the other triggers has a better "feel" to it and integrates better with the overall gameplay.
As for FH, correct me if I am wrong but isn't there a flasher that only goes off when you hit Rudy with the ball or when he swallows it? If the motor is triggered when you smack that boy in the face and you don't think that is cool, you better check your pulse!
Lastly, we designed the board so that you have a very wide range on the adjustment knob to get the right amount of intensity you are comfortable with. Unlike other shaker motors where you dial them down all the way and they still rattle the fillings in your teeth, ours can be dialed down to the point where it feels more like a force feedback controller for your Playstation or Xbox. Of course, you can crank it up all the way if you do like taking trips to the dentist..
Another note, we offer a 30 day no questions asked return of the entire kit. Simply return it to us in the same condition you received it and we will issue you a full refund minus shipping charges. So if you get the kit, and realize it just isn't for you, then you will only be out the shipping.
I think you will find though that the shaker motor kits add a completely new dimension to the game. It really makes it come "alive". It may not be right for every person, or even every game for that matter. However we believe that for the mass majority it will be a really nice improvement.
Hope that Helps,
Best Regards,
Robert Goebel
Pinshakers
www.pinshakers.com
Great info. FH does have a flasher in front of Rudy in the playfield. This is where I want to use the shaker in FH. Played FH today and it will be so much better when it shakes after smacking Rudy.
Quoted from robgo777:Thanks for the interest. We are working on that at the moment to verify everything works as it is supposed to.
Regards,
Robert Goebel
Pinshakers
www.pinshakers.com
Thanks very much for the info, appreciate it.
Well as some of you may have seen already, Pinsound is announcing their own shaker motor kit that connects to their Pinsound board. Congrats to them on what looks like a neat kit.
We will continue to drive on with the development of our kits and will continue to find innovative ways to improve them. We are finishing up all our testing and will be launching the kits as soon as possible.
I think competition is a good thing, and that both kits will be great additions for the community.
Best Regards,
Robert Goebel
Pinshakers
www.pinshakers.com
Good points. I don’t have but one Pinsound board but will still purchase yours due to price and how it’s installed. Thanks again. 
Great news, tests just came back on Williams Sys 11 games and everything is a go. The website has been updated to allow for pre-orders on Sys 11 machines.
Best Regards,
Robert Goebel
Pinshakers
www.pinshakers.com
Very cool!! It seems like this idea has been ripe for picking for a long time; very glad to see it’s coming to life!!
Quoted from robgo777:Well as some of you may have seen already, Pinsound is announcing their own shaker motor kit that connects to their Pinsound board. Congrats to them on what looks like a neat kit.
We will continue to drive on with the development of our kits and will continue to find innovative ways to improve them. We are finishing up all our testing and will be launching the kits as soon as possible.
I think competition is a good thing, and that both kits will be great additions for the community.
Best Regards,
Robert Goebel
Pinshakers
www.pinshakers.com
I don't have pinsound stuff so does not affect me at all. I purchased a pinsound kit one time and ended up selling it. Did not care for it.
Quoted from mollyspub:Wonder if you can get the shaker to off when Rudy is snoaring ? now that would be really cool!
Hi mollyspub,
I looked into this. It seems like the best way to accomplish this would be to turn on the trigger that is connected to the motor in Rudy's mouth. As he is snoring, his mouth shutters. That would be switch 5 on harness "A". I realize it says "Do Not Use" on the dip settings, but it is safe. Most of the "Do Not Use" settings we have in there are just put in place because we don't feel like it would make sense to have them on.. e.g. the eject hole solenoid. We haven't been able to test any magnets though yet so we aren't signing those off as safe to use until we do.
Only thing though is that will trigger the shaker motor any time Rudy's mouth moves.. so while he is talking throughout the game etc. Not sure if that would be ideal to have set that way, probably won't feel "factory".
Hope that helps, and thanks for the interest!
Best Regards,
Robert Goebel
Pinshakers
www.pinshakers.com
You been answering all questions as they arise so hope this is any easy answer...
How do you pick and chose how the shaker interacts with the game ?
Sorry have been following however still not sure as how to make it shake as desired!
Quoted from transprtr4u:You been answering all questions as they arise so hope this is any easy answer...
How do you pick and chose how the shaker interacts with the game ?
Sorry have been following however still not sure as how to make it shake as desired!
Hi transprtr4u,
No need to be sorry, we appreciate all the questions because we want to make sure there are no unanswered ones.
The motor driver board on this revision can accept up to 8 total inputs. There is an on board 8 position dip switch array similar to what you see on newer WPC and Stern MPUs. With this switch you can turn on one or more of the inputs to drive the motor. We made two harnesses, each with 8 connections that plug into the power driver board. You can only have one harness attached at a time, and each harness has a choice of different triggers such as flashlamps, pop bumpers, slingshots, and more depending on the machine. That is the only connection to the power driver board, it does not draw from any power anywhere on that board and it does not send signals to the power driver board, only reads them.
We have already gone through and created a guide that shows you the dip switch settings for each machine we support. It is an easy to read guide to help you choose what input you want to trigger the motor. Attached is an example of the dip switch settings for an original 1995 Attack From Mars. As you can see it has the two separate harnesses "A" and "B". It shows the name of the trigger, and the solenoid number. There are still a few we have labeled "Do Not Use". Most of those are solenoids that you wouldn't want to trigger the shaker anyways such as the ball release, outhole kicker etc. There are also some that are magnets, and we are working to make sure they will trigger the shaker motor properly before we open up those inputs. As we get closer to launching the kits, we will continue to update the dip switch settings and add more as we complete our testing. You can download the complete list on our website from the support page or inside the documentation tab of each individual kit. We will also provide you the current settings inside your kit as well as the installation guides based on the machine(s) you chose when you went through the checkout process.
I hope that makes is more clear on how and when the shaker motor will activate and how you make your choices. Keep the questions coming as we really do appreciate them!
Best Regards,
Robert Goebel
Pinshakers
www.pinshakers.com
attackfrommars.pdfSorry if this has been asked already. But some shakers I’ve experienced are too violent like a jackhammer is turned on inside the cabinet. Is this shaker more in line with a typical Stern shaker?
I’m looking at PotC
Quoted from rai:Sorry if this has been asked already. But some shakers I’ve experienced are too violent like a jackhammer is turned on inside the cabinet. Is this shaker more in line with a typical Stern shaker?
I’m looking at PotC
LOL, yes, I bought the one from Cointaker a few years back and my wife made me disable it. Would shake the dang house.
Helsinki
Quoted from Nepi23:Hi! And thanks for the exciting new product!
Just checking that would it work with a CCC (it has no A/V board and CPU-board is replaced with P-ROC)?
Waiting eagerly also the tests that it would work ok with European machines!
I have a similar question...will this work with Bride of Pinbot 2.0 that also uses a
P-ROC ? 
Quoted from Nepi23:Hi! And thanks for the exciting new product!
Just checking that would it work with a CCC (it has no A/V board and CPU-board is replaced with P-ROC)?
Waiting eagerly also the tests that it would work ok with European machines!
Hi and thanks for these questions. I will try to answer them to the best of my ability but I am at the State Fair right now with the Family so you will have to forgive the abbreviated response.
As far as I know the P-ROC kits did not make any changes to the way the power driver boards control the playfield solenoids and flashlamps. Please somebody school me if I am wrong about that. But if I am correct then yes the kit will work the same as it would without the P-ROC upgrade.
As for the overseas integration of the kits, we are pleased to announce that yes they work as intended. In the coming week we will post some photos of our test results in a machine converted to 240 volts. We will also have some Beta testing done overseas so we can get real results from out in the field.
We have opened up pre-ordering for the major markets overseas and will continue to add the rest prior to the launch of the kits. Shipping estimates are currently worst case, we are working diligently to find the best and affordable worldwide shipping options.
Best Regards,
Robert Goebel
Pinshakers
www.pinshakers.com
Hi guys, just wanted to chime in here is saying that I've been working with Robert as a beta tester for the Shaker motor. I just installed it last night on my no good Gofers and it is awesome!
Installation was really easy, and his step by step instructions were very clear. The motor and everything associated with it is top-notch, thought out, and high quality. I really like the number of selections that you have to choose from that trigger the shaker. I also like how you can manually adjust how strong the motor shakes.
Robert was a pleasure to deal with and very interested in all of the feedback that I had to provide.
I think this one's going to be a big hit!
Quoted from Butch2099:Hi guys, just wanted to chime in here is saying that I've been working with Robert as a beta tester for the Shaker motor. I just installed it last night on my no good Gofers and it is awesome!
Installation was really easy, and his step by step instructions were very clear. The motor and everything associated with it is top-notch, thought out, and high quality. I really like the number of selections that you have to choose from that trigger the shaker. I also like how you can manually adjust how strong the motor shakes.
Robert was a pleasure to deal with and very interested in all of the feedback that I had to provide.
I think this one's going to be a big hit!
Thats what i was saying in earlier comments. This is the best shacker on the market and Robert is a stand up guy. Everyone who orders will be happy.
Quoted from Butch2099:Hi guys, just wanted to chime in here is saying that I've been working with Robert as a beta tester for the Shaker motor. I just installed it last night on my no good Gofers and it is awesome!
Installation was really easy, and his step by step instructions were very clear. The motor and everything associated with it is top-notch, thought out, and high quality. I really like the number of selections that you have to choose from that trigger the shaker. I also like how you can manually adjust how strong the motor shakes.
Robert was a pleasure to deal with and very interested in all of the feedback that I had to provide.
I think this one's going to be a big hit!
Courious if you hooked it up to the flashers or pop bumpers/slings. If you went the flasher route, can each flasher be adjusted seperatly for intensity or can one be completey bypassed?
Quoted from mollyspub:Courious if you hooked it up to the flashers or pop bumpers/slings. If you went the flasher route, can each flasher be adjusted seperatly for intensity or can one be completey bypassed?
He sent me both harnesses in the kit. I'm not sure if that's going to be typical or not. I went with flashers. NGG had 5 dip switch choices. Jet flasher, lower left, lower right, spinner left and spinner right. I started with all 5 going which was too much. I ended it up tweaking it down to just both spinners. Literally a flick of the dipswitch. I would say to future installers, leave the backglass off and play a few games while you dial it in. It will save time.. If I wanted to go with bumpers & Slingshots it's as easy as changing the harness (3-4 plugs).
Quoted from Butch2099:Hi guys, just wanted to chime in here is saying that I've been working with Robert as a beta tester for the Shaker motor. I just installed it last night on my no good Gofers and it is awesome!
Installation was really easy, and his step by step instructions were very clear. The motor and everything associated with it is top-notch, thought out, and high quality. I really like the number of selections that you have to choose from that trigger the shaker. I also like how you can manually adjust how strong the motor shakes.
Robert was a pleasure to deal with and very interested in all of the feedback that I had to provide.
I think this one's going to be a big hit!
Awesome. I had already made my mind up on which to go with. Really looking forward to getting these.
Really thinking about installing this in my Hurricane. The flashers seem to all flash however triggered so even 1 turned on or all of them might not make much difference, afraid it will maybe be too much? In that case the pops/slings might be the way to go.
Quoted from swillie:Really thinking about installing this in my Hurricane. The flashers seem to all flash however triggered so even 1 turned on or all of them might not make much difference, afraid it will maybe be too much? In that case the pops/slings might be the way to go.
Hi swillie,
I have a Hurricane as well with this kit installed, personally I think the pop bumpers are the best. I have all 3 pop bumpers turned on. As for the flashers, the back left flasher seems to be the best, however I prefer the pop bumpers over it.
Best Regards,
Robert Goebel
Pinshakers
www.pinshakers.com
Quoted from rai:Sorry if this has been asked already. But some shakers I’ve experienced are too violent like a jackhammer is turned on inside the cabinet. Is this shaker more in line with a typical Stern shaker?
I’m looking at PotC
Hello rai,
I apologize, I did not see this question of yours earlier. We developed the program to allow a very wide range of adjustment with the on board trimmer pot, which you can do by hand. The lowest setting has just a slight amount of shake and feels a lot like a force feedback gaming controller, while the highest setting does create a more "jackhammer" result. You have a full turn on that trimmer pot to fine tune the exact amount of shake you like.
I am not going to start comparing our kit with others, however I will say that this shaker motor kit allows a much wider range of shake than any other that has come before it.
Hope that helps, and thanks for the interest!
Best Regards,
Robert Goebel
Pinshakers
www.pinshakers.com
Greetings,
So in an effort to come up with an easy solution to connect the power supply to the machine, we developed a mod that will convert the service outlet so that it will turn on/off with the pinball machine on/off switch. It is very easy to do, takes less than 15min, and costs less than $10 in parts. It is also plug n play, no soldering, de-soldering, wire crimping etc. required.
The examples below are for older WPC generation machines with the 9pin transformer voltage connector. It is even easier on newer WPC generation machines with the 12pin transformer connector because it doesn't require replacing the actual outlet itself or cutting any wires.
I apologize ahead of time if somebody else has already come up with this idea. I searched through the forums and couldn't find anyone else with this suggestion. Doesn't mean it hasn't been done before, I just could not fine any other examples.
Let me know what you think of this mod. If it gets enough support then we will mass produce it, offer it up for sale as a separate mod on the site in the "Parts & Accessories" category, and also include it free with the WPC kits.
Hopefully the images will show up in order, I need to figure out how to re-arrange images here on pinside.
Best Regards,
Robert Goebel
Pinshakers
www.pinshakers.com
step1 (resized).jpg
step2 (resized).jpgstep3 (resized).jpgstep4 (resized).jpgstep5 (resized).jpgstep6 (resized).jpgstep7 (resized).jpgstep8 (resized).jpgstep9 (resized).jpgstep10 (resized).jpgstep11 (resized).jpgQuoted from robgo777:Greetings,
So in an effort to come up with an easy solution to connect the power supply to the machine, we developed a mod that will convert the service outlet so that it will turn on/off with the pinball machine on/off switch. It is very easy to do, takes less than 15min, and costs less than $10 in parts. It is also plug n play, no soldering, de-soldering, wire crimping etc. required.
The examples below are for older WPC generation machines with the 9pin transformer voltage connector. It is even easier on newer WPC generation machines with the 12pin transformer connector because it doesn't require replacing the actual outlet itself or cutting any wires.
I apologize ahead of time if somebody else has already come up with this idea. I searched through the forums and couldn't find anyone else with this suggestion. Doesn't mean it hasn't been done before, I just could not fine any other examples.
Let me know what you think of this mod. If it gets enough support then we will mass produce it, offer it up for sale as a separate mod on the site in the "Parts & Accessories" category, and also include it free with the WPC kits.
Hopefully the images will show up in order, I need to figure out how to re-arrange images here on pinside.
Best Regards,
Robert Goebel
Pinshakers
www.pinshakers.com
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Nicely thought out Rob and great mod!!
A couple of comments:
1. Step 2 is only needed if there is an existing service port installed (a lot of exported machines just have a filler cap in this hole - while the cap is round in the below photo the hole in the metal chassis is actually square)
2. Step 2 - you'll want to cut off the 3 wires close to where they join the line filter (for white and green wires) and fuse (black wire) to remove any risk of loose 120/230v wires causing a short
3. Step 7 - WPC games from mid-1993 onwards (ie after TZ but include pins such as IJ and STTNG) have the line filter chassis mounted on the cabinet floor (like the WPC-S and WPC-95 pins) rather than mounted on the side of the cabinet as shown in Step 1. The only difference is that the power switch is mounted on the line filter chassis base plate (shown below), so you won't need to rotate the switch to get the piggyback connectors on.
Cheers
Brett
IJ Line Filter Chassis 1 (resized).pngIJ Line Filter Chassis 2 (resized).pngIJ Line Filter Chassis 3 (resized).png
Quoted from Manny65:Nicely thought out Rob and great mod!!
A couple of comments:
1. Step 2 is only needed if there is an existing service port installed (a lot of exported machines just have a filler cap in this hole - while the cap is round in the below photo the hole in the metal chassis is actually square)
2. Step 2 - you'll want to cut off the 3 wires close to where they join the line filter (for white and green wires) and fuse (black wire) to remove any risk of loose 120/230v wires causing a short
3. Step 7 - WPC games from mid-1993 onwards (ie after TZ but include pins such as IJ and STTNG) have the line filter chassis mounted on the cabinet floor (like the WPC-S and WPC-95 pins) rather than mounted on the side of the cabinet as shown in Step 1. The only difference is that the power switch is mounted on the line filter chassis base plate (shown below), so you won't need to rotate the switch to get the piggyback connectors on.
Cheers
Brett
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Hi Brett,
Thank you for your feedback. Yes unfortunately the mod idea I posted is only meant for 120vac machines. That is because the power receptacle used is only rated for that voltage. For 200-240vac machines, the manufacturer either disabled that receptacle or removed it entirely and just put a plug in as you pointed out.
The direction we plan to go with this is to provide an inline connection adapter for the 9pin molex transformer connectors, much like what we developed for the bill validator connection. That way there will be no pin extracting required, no service outlet mods required, it will be an easy 30 second install by simply disconnecting the 9pin transformer voltage connector, plugging it into our adapter, and plugging our adapter back into the transformer. It will work for all voltages and will arrive pre-jumpered for the voltage you are running.
More to follow on that as we get the parts in to make it.
Best Regards,
Robert Goebel
Pinshakers
www.pinshakers.com
Hi Guys (and gals),
I have been a beta tester for one of the shaker kits for my Wh20. I am not being paid for the review and I paid for the kit so don't have any bias. I didn't include any pics, but they are all in the instructions on their site and in the video they've made.
The kit arrived very well packaged, all parts were present and everything was well marked.
First step was to install the power connection to the game. This will vary by game. For wh2o, I unhooked the 9 pin connector between the power switch box and the transformer. You have to remove the white and black wires from the connector that comes out of the power switch box. I had issues getting the pins out and had to cut and repin the wires. You may have a different experience getting the pins out, but Pinshaker is working on a better plug and play connection so you just unplug the 9 pin connector and plug in his harness/splitter, will be much simpler. Note that connection points are different depending on the game, if you have a dollar bill adapter, it's plug and play. I called Pinshakers about the trouble removing the pins and they picked up quickly to help. The kit includes its own power supply so you are not pulling power from the game. The power supply connects to the 9 pin connector and includes the jumpers that were on the connector from the power switch box. Nothing complicated at all.
Next step was to install the shaker motor. My game has a board that the transformer is mounted too, leaving no room to mount directly to the bottom of the cabinet. No problem, the kit includes long screws to mount the shaker to the board. A mounting template is provided so you mark the holes and drill them out with a 1/4' bit. Hammer in the mounts on the bottom of the cabinet and install the shaker as you normally would.
Next step was to install the motor driver board and make the connection to the game's power drive board. The kit comes with two separate harness, one to control solenoids and one to control flashers, you can only use one of them at a time. I chose to use the flashers. My kit came with an incorrect solenoid harness as the headers for the solenoids were already being used, it's one of the few games where j128/129 are used...this is why there are beta testers. Pinshaker will address this issue with a Z connection. Didn't matter to me as I prefer to hook up to flashers for this game.
I mounted the motor driver board to the side of the cabinet with the supplied velcro and wood screws, attached the connector from the supplied harness and the power cable from the supplied power supply to the board. Unplugged J125 on the driver board, plugged in the other end of the supplied harness from the motor board and attached it to J125, The original connector for J125 gets plugged into the supplied Z connection. A ground cable is supplied with the harness, just attached it to any ground screw in the game. Really simple to do. Before I mounted the board, I set the dip switches to indicate when the shaker would turn on. You just push the dip switch to "on" to enable it. Pinshaker supplies a chart showing the solenoid and flasher settings. I set three dip switches so the shaker would turn on with the insanity falls flasher, big foot cave flasher and the whirlpool flasher.
Last step was to connect the shaker motor to the connector from the harness in the previous step. Just run the wire from the harness down into the cabinet and make the Molex connection.
Turned the game on, went into test mode for the flashers, cycled through and i could feel the shaker working when those three flashers were activated. The shaker motor board has a dial on it so you can change the intensity of the shaker. It felt good out of the box so I didn't adjust it.
Overall, this is an extremely nice product, 5 stars all the way around. It works nicely in the game and adds what I think is a missing dimension from these older games. It took me about an hour to install the shaker, I went slow and took my time since i was not familiar with it. When I install the next one for my shadow and possibly roadshow (missing shaker), i'd guess it will take no more than 30 minutes. On a scale of 1 to 10 with 10 being the most difficult, install is a 2, it's that easy. The only tools you really need are a screwdriver, hammer for the shaker mounting hardware, a drill and 1/4" bit, everything else is supplied.
Hope this is helpful...great work Pinshakers! If anyone has any questions, PM or ask Pinshakers.
Quoted from Lermods:Hi Guys (and gals),
I have been a beta tester for one of the shaker kits for my Wh20. I am not being paid for the review and I paid for the kit so don't have any bias. I didn't include any pics, but they are all in the instructions on their site and in the video they've made.
The kit arrived very well packaged, all parts were present and everything was well marked.
First step was to install the power connection to the game. This will vary by game. For wh2o, I unhooked the 9 pin connector between the power switch box and the transformer. You have to remove the white and black wires from the connector that comes out of the power switch box. I had issues getting the pins out and had to cut and repin the wires. You may have a different experience getting the pins out, but Pinshaker is working on a better plug and play connection so you just unplug the 9 pin connector and plug in his harness/splitter, will be much simpler. Note that connection points are different depending on the game, if you have a dollar bill adapter, it's plug and play. I called Pinshakers about the trouble removing the pins and they picked up quickly to help. The kit includes its own power supply so you are not pulling power from the game. The power supply connects to the 9 pin connector and includes the jumpers that were on the connector from the power switch box. Nothing complicated at all.
Next step was to install the shaker motor. My game has a board that the transformer is mounted too, leaving no room to mount directly to the bottom of the cabinet. No problem, the kit includes long screws to mount the shaker to the board. A mounting template is provided so you mark the holes and drill them out with a 1/4' bit. Hammer in the mounts on the bottom of the cabinet and install the shaker as you normally would.
Next step was to install the motor driver board and make the connection to the game's power drive board. The kit comes with two separate harness, one to control solenoids and one to control flashers, you can only use one of them at a time. I chose to use the flashers. My kit came with an incorrect solenoid harness as the headers for the solenoids were already being used, it's one of the few games where j128/129 are used...this is why there are beta testers. Pinshaker will address this issue with a Z connection. Didn't matter to me as I prefer to hook up to flashers for this game.
I mounted the motor driver board to the side of the cabinet with the supplied velcro and wood screws, attached the connector from the supplied harness and the power cable from the supplied power supply to the board. Unplugged J125 on the driver board, plugged in the other end of the supplied harness from the motor board and attached it to J125, The original connector for J125 gets plugged into the supplied Z connection. A ground cable is supplied with the harness, just attached it to any ground screw in the game. Really simple to do. Before I mounted the board, I set the dip switches to indicate when the shaker would turn on. You just push the dip switch to "on" to enable it. Pinshaker supplies a chart showing the solenoid and flasher settings. I set three dip switches so the shaker would turn on with the insanity falls flasher, big foot cave flasher and the whirlpool flasher.
Last step was to connect the shaker motor to the connector from the harness in the previous step. Just run the wire from the harness down into the cabinet and make the Molex connection.
Turned the game on, went into test mode for the flashers, cycled through and i could feel the shaker working when those three flashers were activated. The shaker motor board has a dial on it so you can change the intensity of the shaker. It felt good out of the box so I didn't adjust it.
Overall, this is an extremely nice product, 5 stars all the way around. It works nicely in the game and adds what I think is a missing dimension from these older games. It took me about an hour to install the shaker, I went slow and took my time since i was not familiar with it. When I install the next one for my shadow and possibly roadshow (missing shaker), i'd guess it will take no more than 30 minutes. On a scale of 1 to 10 with 10 being the most difficult, install is a 2, it's that easy. The only tools you really need are a screwdriver, hammer for the shaker mounting hardware, a drill and 1/4" bit, everything else is supplied.
Hope this is helpful...great work Pinshakers! If anyone has any questions, PM or ask Pinshakers.
great review. can't wait to get mine.
If you submitted a pre-order then you should have already received this message. If not then check your spam folder. For everyone else...
Greetings from Pinshakers!
We have been very busy lately getting ready for the launch of our Universal Shaker Motor Kits! Positive results are coming in from our Beta Testers and we are very excited to offer you such an awesome product.
Thanks to the productive feedback we have been receiving from our beta testers, as well as some of you, we have made a few major changes to the kits; all to serve your best interests. Here is a list of changes we have made so far since we made our initial announcement:
1. No more pin extracting! We have developed a quick and easy adapter for the 9pin transformer voltage connectors, much like the bill validator adapter, and it only takes 10 seconds to get up and running! We are in the process of updated our installation guides and videos to reflect this change.
2. Both wire harness "A" and "B" will now be included with your kit purchase at no additional cost!
3. Williams Sys 11 alpha testing is complete. We will start our beta testing program for this lineup and we have opened them up for pre-order. We are expecting to have the Sys 11 kits available by the end of August or early September.
If you have placed a pre-order already, do not worry. We will update your payment invoice to reflect the changes being made prior to sending it to you (no additional cost for both harnesses, no need for the .093 pin extractor etc.).
Speaking of invoices, our current plan is to send invoices out within 1 week of when the kits will be available. There will not be a due date on them, just want to give you the opportunity to have the payment complete that way as soon as the kits are assembled we can send them your way. You can of course still choose to wait until they are available as we initially promised. Kits will ship out based on when we received your order, not when we receive your payment. Not to worry though, there will be plenty of kits for everyone!
Thank you very much for all your support. We will continue to work hard to make these the best shaker motor kits on the market.
Best Regards,
Robert Goebel
Pinshakers
www.pinshakers.com
Quoted from robgo777:If you submitted a pre-order then you should have already received this message. If not then check your spam folder. For everyone else...
Greetings from Pinshakers!
We have been very busy lately getting ready for the launch of our Universal Shaker Motor Kits! Positive results are coming in from our Beta Testers and we are very excited to offer you such an awesome product.
Thanks to the productive feedback we have been receiving from our beta testers, as well as some of you, we have made a few major changes to the kits; all to serve your best interests. Here is a list of changes we have made so far since we made our initial announcement:
1. No more pin extracting! We have developed a quick and easy adapter for the 9pin transformer voltage connectors, much like the bill validator adapter, and it only takes 10 seconds to get up and running! We are in the process of updated our installation guides and videos to reflect this change.
2. Both wire harness "A" and "B" will now be included with your kit purchase at no additional cost!
3. Williams Sys 11 alpha testing is complete. We will start our beta testing program for this lineup and we have opened them up for pre-order. We are expecting to have the Sys 11 kits available by the end of August or early September.
If you have placed a pre-order already, do not worry. We will update your payment invoice to reflect the changes being made prior to sending it to you (no additional cost for both harnesses, no need for the .093 pin extractor etc.).
Speaking of invoices, our current plan is to send invoices out within 1 week of when the kits will be available. There will not be a due date on them, just want to give you the opportunity to have the payment complete that way as soon as the kits are assembled we can send them your way. You can of course still choose to wait until they are available as we initially promised. Kits will ship out based on when we received your order, not when we receive your payment. Not to worry though, there will be plenty of kits for everyone!
Thank you very much for all your support. We will continue to work hard to make these the best shaker motor kits on the market.
Best Regards,
Robert Goebel
Pinshakers
www.pinshakers.com
Robert, did not get a email and checked spam.
Quoted from robgo777:We made two harnesses, each with 8 connections that plug into the power driver board. You can only have one harness attached at a time, and each harness has a choice of different triggers such as flashlamps, pop bumpers, slingshots, and more depending on the machine.
So to clarify, per your example diagram for AFM, if someone wanted to use the left and right slingshots and the Right Side High and Right Side Low flashers for triggers, they would not be able to, because the slings are triggered from J114/J115 and the flashers from J112, and you only plug a harness into one of those connectors?
If that's the case, could someone roll their own "Frankenstein's Harness" to pull some signal lines from J112 and some from J114/J115 to set up their own mix of triggers? Or would that summon doom, gloom and magic smoke?
Quoted from Blackjacker:So to clarify, per your example diagram for AFM, if someone wanted to use the left and right slingshots and the Right Side High and Right Side Low flashers for triggers, they would not be able to, because the slings are triggered from J114/J115 and the flashers from J112, and you only plug a harness into one of those connectors?
If that's the case, could someone roll their own "Frankenstein's Harness" to pull some signal lines from J112 and some from J114/J115 to set up their own mix of triggers? Or would that summon doom, gloom and magic smoke?
Hi blackjacker.
This is a great question. There would be no magic smoke, however the problem is the board is designed to only isolate 8 inputs. So you would have to be sure to make the harness so that only a total of 8 different inputs are going into the board at a given time. Yes you could make the harness to say take 5 inputs from J112, and 2 inputs from J114, and 1 input from J115, for a total of 8 total inputs. The problem only occurs if you try to connect 9 or more inputs at a time. Even then, if you did that there still will not be any smoke. What would happen is it would cause a situation where when one of the flashers went off, it would cause a different flasher to go off as well when it isn't supposed to. Hope that makes sense?
I have no problem making a custom harness like that at no additional charge, just let me know ahead of time before I ship the kit to you. I would prefer that I do it because I have all the proper tools and materials to make sure it is done right. Plus I can test it prior to shipping it out to you.
Best Regards,
Robert Goebel
Pinshakers
www.pinshakers.com
Quoted from woody76:Robert, did not get a email and checked spam.
Thanks, good to know... my hosting provider must have blocked me from sending out a mass email. I will send them out individually from now on.
Rob
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