Received my 2 kits the other day,assembly is easy ,great kits,thanks Phil.
One suggestion though maybe make the power lead a little longer to accommodate aftermarket rectifier boards with pads for test points.

PM sent last week for a kit. Thanks!

pm sent.

There is a simple way, to make an 8-LED-component from your 10-LED-component. As in the 10-LED-component you use there are 10 single LEDs, you can simply grind down 2 of the segments with a belt sander like in this picture http://toolmonger.com/wp-content/uploads/2007/09/DM_Belt_Sander.jpg.

I always do this, when I do not get the correct numbers of LEDs I want to have. If you grind down very carefully, it looks really nice and anybody can´t see.

- Ingo

Phil, how much wattage do the 100 Ohm wire-wound esistors have, you use? I suppose they are 0,5 W, correct?

- Ingo

Rcvd kit, assembly to follow! Thanx!

I don't think I ever got the invoice.

No worries. I'll pm you my paypal address.

1) All parts inventoried and instructions skimmed. Pretty self explanatory.

2) Halfway there?

3) Looks like the picture. Let's give her a test, shall we?

IMG_4984.JPG IMG_4985.JPG IMG_4989.JPG

Total assembly time - 30 min. Much more satisfying since I got that Hakko. Easily done and a good tool. Took your suggestion to use the 5VDC running through the back board lights. This Bally model has the power board (and transformer) just forward of the coin box. Works as advertised. Eagerly anticipating your next project.

Tested on my Black Pyramid.

IMG_4996.JPG

Phil,

again thanks for this great board, it really simplyfies testing the SCRs.

As you know - you have an idea and not a short time later, this idea is copycatted, you know, what I am speaking of.

In a later design, you could make the board a bit smaller and more handy, if you want.

I have made a nice design, I added a part (KEYSTONE 534-5010) as TP1, to take HHaase´s suggestion above to put an additional grab point on the board, to easy daisy-chain the 5v to other boards.

Attached is a layout-photo of the board, I hope you like it. The new size of the board is 52x94mm only.

If you have interest, I will send you the layout files in gerber-format, so you can use like you want and can save a bit time.

To make it clear: I do not want to steal your board or let it produce in any way, its only a suggestion and help for you, to make your nice and perfect board to become the absolute ultimate LDTF.

- Ingo

LDTF_Testboard_TOP.JPG

+1

Ingo,
Thanks for your kind words. I am glad you enjoy it.
Your design of the board looks very good! It looks like you used a "copper pour" method. Unfortunately for me, I not that skilled in that area of board design yet. I especially like the compact nature of this design. I also like fact that your design does not use vias. That must be a result of your expertise. I would gladly accept a copy of the gerber files for this. Thank you. Perhaps you could share a bit of your expertise on general printed circuit board design so that others can increase their knowledge.
I took the suggestion by Hans to add a grab point for voltages and filed it away for future designs. It is a very good suggestion. It definitely makes these types of testers more versatile.
Mit freundlichen Grüßen,
Phil

Hi Phil,

thanks. You can make the board even a little bit smaller by mounting the 3 resistor networks to the bottom of the board directly under the LED-arrays, which should the be socketed.

I will put everything together during this week and will send you all the gerber data files and some photos, where you can see the layout detailed, if you want to make it with your own layout software.

The board now is 46,3 x 94,5 mm, very handy and could like this:

LDTF_TESTBOARD_(1).JPG

Best regards

Ingo

Love this design been in contact about purchasing one looking forward to it a few years back I made a tester with 28 globe sockets in a frame did the job but is only about 400 times larger than this little beauty

I have a question Phil or anyone else who is familiar with this test board. I am using it on a Harlem Globetrotters and I am trying to understand what the test board is telling me. On the lamp board I measured a good +5v across TP2 and TP1.

Right now, all controlled lamps except for a few on the backbox are not working. I put the game in lamp test and all controlled lamps are out except just a few flashing on backbox like "game over", "high score to date", etc. All the rest of the controlled lamps are always dark.

Now I tried the LDTF board in all 3 connectors on the lamp board. In each of the 3 positions, the correct LED's were solidly lit. The game was put in lamp test mode, when connected to each connector. So, I expected to see some flashing LEDs when the LDTF was connected to J2 but I did not. I only saw the correct LEDs stay on solid with no flashing. Is that normal?

What is the LDTF board trying to tell me or any ideas on the problem?

Also I forgot to mention, when LDTF board is connected to J1 & J3, all the correct LEDs were on solid and not flashing.

I just got off the phone with Phil and we determined my Harlem Globetrotters lamp board is working fine. First, I need to say what a great product this is and great support from Phil!

The mistake I made was plugging the power to the test board into the test point directly on the lamp driver board. When I moved the power connector over to the +5v coming directly off the power supply, it works great and I can see all the LEDs flashing correctly. As an alternate source of +5v, the metal wire running along the backbox controlled lamps also is a handy source (but make sure you don't accidentially tap into AC for the GI).

It looks like my lamp board is fine and I need to double check the wiring going to lamps. Probably just missing the +5v going to the playfield somehow.

This LDTF is an awesome time saver, letting me get my game playable much faster than without.

Phil,

Are any of these testers still available? If yes I'll need them shipped to New Zealand. I say them 'cos the solenoid tester looks interesting.

Jon

Do you offer a package deal for all of your testers in kit form to be shipped at the same time to the same address?

Although I don't work on this era of games, I'll take a complete set of your testers once the designs are final, on the chance that someone might want one repaired in my shop.

@Half_Life:

Oops, sorry, I really forgot to send you the Gerber-files of my design as promised 10 months ago. I am very sorry for that.

If you do not want to make the work twice, I can send you the files at once. I still have them and I do not need them for my own purposes. You are the "father" of this tester and nobody should steel your idee,
So simply send me a message and you will get the data. You can view them perfectly with GC-Preview, download the free version here: http://www.graphicode.com/GC-Prevue

- Ingo

How far out do you think the solenoid tester is from being ready for public sale?

Phil,

Are any of these LDTF and SDTF testers still available? If yes I'll need them shipped to Germany, or do you have a distributor in Germany.

Wolle

if not look here http://pinitech.com/products/cat_diagnostic.php

I would like a tester, unassembled would be ok, or whatever you have. Do you still have any of these?

-Pat