(Topic ID: 285381)

Intermittent issues with Top Score Player Unit

By Peruman

3 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 8 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by MarkG
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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#1 3 years ago

I fixed up a Top Score for a friend and it's been having intermittent issues with features of the game related to the Player Unit. Before delivering and setting up the unit, I ohmed out all the switch stacks in the Player Unit and cleaned/adjusted as needed so on delivery, everything was working correctly. I also cleaned and adjusted the snowshoe wipers to make sure they were always centered on the rivets. The game played great for about two months and now he is seeing intermittent issues with the Player Unit. This is what we have seen not work consistently:

1) When Player 1 is active, the Player 1 score reel bulbs should light up. He noticed that sometimes those bulbs don't light up but Player 1 is playing and scoring with no issues. It's just the lights. Those lights are controlled by a M/B on the P2 stack (P2C). Sure enough, that M/B was no longer ohming out correctly so I had to re-adjust that switch. Even though that switch had been cleaned and adjusted before delivering the game.

2) The Player 2 hundreds reel does not always finish resetting to "0" so the machine gets stuck in a reset cycle. Again, all switches ohm out correctly every time I check them. Re-setting the scoring reel by hand clears the problem. Again, this is not consistent, only happens every now and again.

What makes it hard to debug is that both these issues only happen every now and again. It is not consistent. Could this be an issue with the switches on the Player Unit stacks actually having a problem with metal fatigue? Is it time to replace components rather than continue to clean and adjust?

One more question, the machine is in the same room as their woodburning stove. It was not running in the fall but now it is. Can this be an issue?

Thanks in advance,

Alberto

#2 3 years ago
Quoted from Peruman:

2) The Player 2 hundreds reel does not always finish resetting to "0" so the machine gets stuck in a reset cycle. Again, all switches ohm out correctly every time I check them. Re-setting the scoring reel by hand clears the problem. Again, this is not consistent, only happens every now and again.

Do you see/feel the coil impulsing at all? That would help divide the issue. If it has trouble getting past 9 specifically, remember that there is a small amount of extra drag on the reel when at 9.

If suspicion goes more toward the operation of the reel, try hitting 500s during play to see if any come up short (400).
.................David Marston

#3 3 years ago

David, the coil appears to be pulsing OK. When I have seen it get stuck (once this morning in about 20 games) and once in the photo my buddy sent to me, it was in the number 3 which is random since that is not a position where the switch stack on the reel would be moving

#4 3 years ago

Did you tighten the switch stacks before cleaning & adjusting switches?

#5 3 years ago
Quoted from jeffc:

Did you tighten the switch stacks before cleaning & adjusting switches?

For the Player Unit I took each stack off to clean it (easier access to the switches), then screwed back on and tightened, then checked with ohmmeter as I was manually actuating the Player Unit. Any switch that was not working right was then adjusted.

#6 3 years ago

While checking switch resistance is a good start, switches typically also need some over travel to operate reliably. Resistance won't tell you much about over travel.

Over travel contributes a wiping motion between the contacts to keep them clean. It also adds tension between the switch blades to make them less susceptible to mechanical vibrations during a game which makes them more reliable.

/Mark

#7 3 years ago

MarkG - is there a way to check the over travel?

My concern is that either I'm running into metal fatigue on the switches or the wood-burning stove is adding a temp coefficient to the operation of the Player Unit.

#8 3 years ago

I'm sure there are videos out there. NicoVolta had one (on facebook?) at some point about adjusting relay switches.

But generally the long or traveling switch blade should touch and push back the short or stationary blade to some extent. It doesn't take much but you should be able to see the short blade move a bit after the long blade makes contact with it.

Temperature and metal fatigue aren't usually a concern.

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