(Topic ID: 91411)

Interlock switch question

By mrobertso2

9 years ago


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  • 29 posts
  • 9 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 years ago by _litz
  • Topic is favorited by 5 Pinsiders

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    #1 9 years ago

    So I repaired the diodes on a wpc95 board. The LED at 104 (flashers) is dead but the test point is 22.1v. The exit to the playfield is 22.1 so the flashers are getting power. All new bulbs installed. The interlock switch; when you pull it out doesn't override the power cutoff. Basically pulling it out doesn't allow power to the flashers or solinoids. Tells me the switch is bad. Can the interlock not functioning properly cause the led and the flashers not to work, even if the door is closed?

    1 week later
    #5 9 years ago

    I replaced the interlock switch and wired according to the manual. B/C red on the left, B/C black on the right. Still has issues. With the door open LED 107 goes out. When the switch is pulled out, the led lights up. Still no flashers but there is power at the test point and I tested power at 133. All prongs have power going out.
    Something I noticed on other machines. When you open the door, it oviously states power cut off high power sol. On other games when you pull out the interlock that message goes away. On the NBA it doesn't go away even though it shows the 107 led lit. This is a brand new switch from Marco. That seems like there still is an issue with the interlock, or does wpc 95 games don't show the message going away but there is still power?

    #8 9 years ago

    Yup exactly missing flashers. Power is at the connection going out to the playfield. That's why I thought something in the interlock was preventing power. But it has to be something else. There isn't any sub board under the playfield that controls flashers right? Yes nba fast break

    #20 9 years ago

    Power traced to flasher domes at 21.4. Used multiple bulbs during test mode with the door open and interlock out and door closed and inter lock in. No flash. Switch issue?

    #21 9 years ago

    Ok, ran ground to strand and touched tip102 at q35 (flasher transistors) the second I touched the top the led at 104 came on. All flashers worked as well as solenoids when the transistor was tested. Checked ribbon cables again for proper seeding. All look good. Checked molex connectors at entrance and exit points. All correctly connected and no burnt connectors. Short on board? CPU issue?

    #24 9 years ago

    Chris Wright was kind enough when he picked up a DH to bring a extra Driver board. I put it in and everything worked perfect. Issue is with the board. Now to track it down. Also on old board C10 was replaced.

    #25 9 years ago
    Quoted from wayout440:

    LED @104 on the driver board should be on all the time, not when you manually short something. This is the indicator for presence of +20VDC for the low power coils. Remove J133 and J134 from the driver board and see if the LED comes on. If it does not, problem with the +20VDC supply circuit. If it comes on, you have a downstream problem in the low power coils.

    I got that. Problem was the test point was reading 21.4 v and there is volts going out all the way to the flasher homes. Even with the 104 led being out. Something is amiss on the board.

    3 weeks later
    #28 9 years ago
    Quoted from mrobertso2:

    I got that. Problem was the test point was reading 21.4 v and there is volts going out all the way to the flasher homes. Even with the 104 led being out. Something is amiss on the board.

    Ended up being a trace short that Rob Anthony fixed at the show for me.

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