If it is in or pulled out you should be getting power. Check continuity with power off to confirm switch functions properly.
If you just got machine it could be connected incorrectly. If not connected properly you would have power only with the door open which is backwards.

I have seen people talking about those switches malfunctioning fairly often.

How many wires going to the interlock swich? My understanding is that there should be 4. Two for the switch matrix 'coin door closed'. Two to physically cut the power. I could be wrong about this, but I'd like to know.

The interlock switch on WPC-95 is a DPDT, with one set of poles wired to the supply for the high power solenoids, and the other to the lower power flashers. In theory, you could have a "half bad" switch where it is only cutting off power to one of the two. BLK/YEL pair of wires is the set to the coils, WHT/RED pair of wires to the flashers.

Use a DMM to check continuity and operation of the switch, and as a further check look for flash lamp 16 VAC making it up to driver board F107 when the interlock is closed.

NBA Fastbreak is the game?

I'm seeing on the front page of the manual (on IPDB):

interlock.jpg

I think the above snippet from the manual disproves my theory about how the switches work, which was that there was a switch on the switch matrix to tell the CPU when the door is open.

Perhaps the CPU board interprets the lack of high voltage from the playfield/cabinet as the sign that the coin door is open?

We are talking about a coin door switch with two "buttons", as shown in the manual, right? When the coin door is closed, you're still missing your flashers?

If the WPC game has two switches, one is memory protect and one is high power interlock, coils, flashers.

If one switch, it is memory protect, no high power interlock.

LTG : )™

My JM has both switches, and while the memory protect is working, the high power interlock is disconnected. The second switch is mounted properly, but the molex connectors shown in the above image are just lying in the bottom of the cabinet.

Does anyone know how this should be connected? It appears my game had this option added, but nobody ever hooked it up. I can't find any reference to it in the manual or schematics.

Do your wire colors match Wayout440's picture ? If so hook it up like that.

LTG : )™

It's near the very front of the JM manual. PDF page 4. It's on the page before page i. On first glance, it looks identical to the NBAFB diagram shown above.

Right- got that much. Unfortunately it doesn't actually say how to hook it up, as far as I can tell. Maybe it's obvious if I unplug some connectors in there. I assume it patches in to some existing harness, since the wires clearly run from one connector, to the switch, then back to the other connector.

To clarify, the switch itself is hooked up correctly. It's the large molex connectors at the other end of the harness that aren't. They are lying in the bottom of the cabinet. Everything is wired up, the molex connectors just aren't plugged into whatever they are supposed to be plugged into.

My bsd has the one switch. When I open the door, no warning goes off or that annoying sound. I thought it was strange at first, but maybe it's normal?

Normal for BSD.

And when you open the coin door you don't cut high power to coils and flashers. So when working with the power on, which you shouldn't do. Be extra careful not to short lamps or switches and send 70 volts to 5 volt boards like your CPU.

LTG : )™

Thanks!

I rarely work with it on.. and if I do, I remove my wedding ring just in case.

Funny. I quit wearing rings. Tired of squishing them and having to cut the ring off of my purple finger or arc welding with my finger.

LTG : )™

I make no claim to be an expert on WPC. I noticed in the manuals, seems many are lacking in some areas of the schematics - in particular, the transformer power wiring. This drawing is on page one on the "WPC Schematic Manual" I found online, which seems to be from HS2 documentation. I can't be certain how much applies to other WPC titles. It seems from this drawing that the interlock switch (circled in yellow) is only used on 100V implementations of service mains power. Why that is I do not know. But FWIW it might help someone.

interlockschem.jpg

LED @104 on the driver board should be on all the time, not when you manually short something. This is the indicator for presence of +20VDC for the low power coils. Remove J133 and J134 from the driver board and see if the LED comes on. If it does not, problem with the +20VDC supply circuit. If it comes on, you have a downstream problem in the low power coils.

Has capacitor C10 been replaced or did it came loose from the PCB ?

Sorry to dredge up this old thread, but I did finally figure out how to connect the interlock, if anyone is interested. Once I knew what to look for (thanks to information from this thread!), it was pretty obvious. One of the two big harnesses on the mains power adapter box (next to the beastly transformer, at the back of the machine) has a large square molex connector inline. The interlock switch has a Y-shaped version of this same harness, and it's simply a matter of inserting it into the power harness, thus routing the relevant circuits down through the interlock and back.

I verified that the high power stuff is now actually disabled when the coin door is open, instead of just the computer saying it is. No idea why this wasn't hooked up properly when I bought the machine, but comforting to know it is now!

image.jpg

Thank you for contributing information!

BTW, on System 11, the "coin door closed" switch is called "Memory Protect" ... and it does just that ...

on WPC/WPC95, it's called "coin door closed", and the functionality, as pertains to memory, is different.

Testing the coin door closed switch on WPC is easy - close the coin door w/the playfield up, and try and push the buttons. If it's working properly, the game will put up a message "Open Coin Door to Use Buttons".

The high power interlock switch (only on Japanese games, and US games from IJ and newer) cuts out the +50 and +20 secondary lines (coils/flashers) between transformer and backbox. It can be bypassed by simply unplugging it from the transformer output plug, as it's connected simply via an inline connection.