(Topic ID: 114870)

Interior Cabinet Sanding/Cleaning


By Carl_694

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 23 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by RyanClaytor
  • Topic is favorited by 4 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 6 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

20150127_215413.jpg
P1050061.JPG
P1040929.jpg
20150104051141883.jpg
20150103225612800.jpg
2014-05-19_21-53-32_224.jpg

#1 5 years ago

I have a Gottlieb Spirit I am restoring (PF is out now for professional touch-up and CC). I am not planning to do anything to the exterior of the cab. It is not perfect, but it's pretty nice and don't think restoring it is within my skillset or time availability. I was thinking about sanding the inside of the cabinet, but see conflicting info. on it.

My concern: The cabinet has a large spot of factory paint (intentional) and some type of number on the bottom, pretty much under the coin box area. I'm guess it's some type of QC sign-off or something. Should I sand that off?

I've also heard you can use carpet cleaner to clean the bottom. Should I sand the overspray off the sides, too?

Any thoughts on how to proceed?

Thanks!

#2 5 years ago

Personally, I don't see a need to sand the wood unless it's been stained by something and makes it look nasty.

If the numbering is a 4-digit number, or a 4-digit number with a leading zero, it might be the serial number.

Unless the paint is causing problems or looks bad, I wouldn't sand that either. However, if you do sand it, keep in mind that it is lead paint, so a mask is a good idea.

#3 5 years ago

Thanks. Definitely not the serial number - that's located on the backbox and above the shooter lane on this game.

Paint is OK, just wondering how to remove the ground-in dirt, etc.

#4 5 years ago
Quoted from Carl_694:

Thanks. Definitely not the serial number - that's located on the backbox and above the shooter lane on this game.
Paint is OK, just wondering how to remove the ground-in dirt, etc.

Gottlieb games usually have the serial number stamped in the backbox, in the cabinet body, and depending on the year, the front of the cabinet as well.

So far, what I've been doing is just vacuuming with a brush attachment and scrubbing a little with it when necessary. Also, Wiping it down with paper towels and simple green.

I'm not sure if other folks have come up with better methods, but I imagine there's a few other approaches out there.

#5 5 years ago

OK. That sounds like a good plan - and prevents me from having to lug the cab outside in this wicked weather.

#6 5 years ago

I found that a stiff bristle brush and a shop vac work well for getting the dirt out of the inside of the cab, wear a dust mask and scrub around with the brush DRY while holding the shop vac hose near where you are brushing.

If you have any odors like mildew or smoke, try Zorbx , it was recommended to me in another thread and since then my wife no longer buys Febreze. It works really good, has no smell and removes odors almost instantly.

#7 5 years ago
Quoted from NextoPin:

If you have any odors like mildew or smoke, try Zorbx , it was recommended to me in another thread and since then my wife no longer buys Febreze. It works really good, has no smell and removes odors almost instantly.

Zorbx is water-based, so don't let it soak into the wood too much.

It's usually best to spray a paper towel then use that to wipe things down.

#8 5 years ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:

Zorbx is water-based, so don't let it soak into the wood too much.
It's usually best to spray a paper towel then use that to wipe things down.

Sorry, yes, I only spray a dusting of it inside the cab and wait for it to dry, take a whiff, repeat as necessary.

#9 5 years ago

Thank you gentlemen! Much appreciated advice.

#10 5 years ago

This doesn't mean there aren't situations that might need some light sanding, though. For example, this power board was completely speckled with dark spots left from mold that simply couldn't be cleaned away. The right tools for the job

Before
Parts removed and board lightly sanded with 180 grit
The parts going back on

#11 5 years ago

Thanks. Thing that gets me nervous is removing more stuff. I already stripped both side of the PF so it could be sent out, and I'm nervous to mess with more things due to the increased risk I'll botch something along the way. Just adds more and more things that can go wrong...Yikes!

#12 5 years ago

I haven't bought alot of EM's, but I just got in there with a new soft paintbrush, I taped it to the end of the shop vac hose and gently brushed off the bottom board components to remove as much grime as I could. I cleaned the parts of the plywood I had access to and called it a day. If you are doing a full restoration them maybe you would go to more extremes but for me I just like to clean them up and play them.

Make sure to empty your shop vac before starting so you can retrieve anything you suck up by accident and watch out for loose labels.

#13 5 years ago
Quoted from Carl_694:

Thanks. Thing that gets me nervous is removing more stuff. I already stripped both side of the PF so it could be sent out, and I'm nervous to mess with more things due to the increased risk I'll botch something along the way. Just adds more and more things that can go wrong...Yikes!

Take lots of photos from different angles for each part that you remove. When you think you have enough, take 3 more (as Vid says )

Also be sure to take photos of screws, nuts, etc to give you an idea of where they go. Placing them next to a ruler wouldn't hurt either, especially if you have a dozen different sizes of screws.

#14 5 years ago

I sand the inside on mine....looks new.

P1040929.jpg P1050061.JPG
#15 5 years ago

red scotch brite pad does a good job and you can get to spots where an orbital or mouse won't fit.

-c

2 weeks later
#16 5 years ago

Decided to ultimately sand the bottom of the cabinet. There was just so much ground-in dirt and grime that wasn't otherwise easily coming up that sanding became the best option. Will post pics....

#17 5 years ago

What's the best tool to get into all the corners when sanding the inside of a cab?

Or is it always best to remove the bottom piece and re-attach it later?

-mof

#18 5 years ago

How do you remove the bottom piece anyway?

#19 5 years ago

I didn't try that - just removed components so far and sanded. Going in sections somewhat.

#20 5 years ago

20150127_215413.jpg

#21 5 years ago
Quoted from mof:

What's the best tool to get into all the corners when sanding the inside of a cab?
Or is it always best to remove the bottom piece and re-attach it later?
-mof

piece of quarter round w/ sandpaper around it for the corners.

#22 5 years ago

Planning to only sand the bottom and jot the overspray. Is that ok? Or should I take it all the way down?

#23 5 years ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:

This doesn't mean there aren't situations that might need some light sanding, though.

Wow. That looks incredible! Nice work, ForceFlow. Thanks for the process pics!

Sincerely,
Ryan Claytor
Elephant Eater Comics
www.ElephantEater.com

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
From: $ 40.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
$ 399.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball LEDs
$ 999.00
Flipper Parts
Mircoplayfields
Trade
Machine - For Trade
Lima, OH
$ 50.00
€ 8.40
$ 279.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball LEDs
From: $ 18.00
Apparel - Men
Pinside Shop
$ 79.99
Cabinet - Armor And Blades
PinGraffix Pinside Shop
$ 14.95
$ 750.00
Cabinet - Toppers
Great American Pinball
$ 14.95
Various Novelties
Allteksystems
$ 24.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
The MOD Couple
$ 84.95
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Super Skill Shot Shop
$ 20.00
Playfield - Decals
Flashinstinct
From: $ 99.99
Cabinet - Other
Lighted Pinball Mods

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside