Interflip Missing Post

Hi everyone,

Zac from South Australia here, I’m recently the proud owner of an INTERFLIP Dragon and was stoked to find a club thread on this fine site. (Hope you don’t mind me lobbing in here!)

You may have seen my other post but I’ve just sucesssfully flattened my warped playfield and the journey continues. (FYI I posted elsewhere because I was thinking it was more of a general ‘material’ query than an Interflip specific issue). I’m particularly stoked because it looks like mine is a prototype, it has the ‘& Advance’ on the far left and right stand up targets. Apparently there is no wiring in the schematic for this and you can’t advance the bonus with these shots(?).

I was wondering if anyone has one of these posts rattling around in their toolbox or possibly knows where I can get them? I’m missing one (the other was a tech screw! ) and they seem to be a bespoke Interflip component. They are the posts that sit under the far left and right outlanes and (by the looks of it) give you a fighting chance to save the ball.

I can always substitute both posts with a different type but it would be great if I could stick to the original design.

The post itself sits 17mm high from the playfield and the rest is 22mm long.

Anyhoo, any help would be very much appreciated.

Cheers, Zac.

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Any chance that someone has a good copy of the instructions card for the Dragon pinball?

Has anyone figured out how the soundboard is wired? I'm wondering how hard it would be to clip the wires and re-create a new set of sounds using a wavtrigger. I assume each individual sound would be represent by one wire, so switches would be grouped together and all switches using sound X would be trigger by one of the wires, all the dragon heads would be represented by one wire since they all make the same roar sound etc.... I might be off with my primitive train of thought but it makes sense I'd just need to trace each wire back to each specific sound, run them into a wav trigger and replace the sounds that way unless the voltage is going to become an issue

What do you guys clean your playfields with? I usually use the dry eraser + alcohol and clean that off with a naptha before waxing, but I'm not so sure it's a good idea with fiberglass. Is my best bet Novus 2?

It's a plexiglas Playfield. No need for Naptha IMHO, but maybe diluted alcohol, or any mild cleaner, to lift the dirt away.

Novus 2 polish finished mine off nicely.

How is BAO! not in the title of this thread?

So I have a CANADA-4 version of this game that I picked up for $350 from a local toy collector. Frankly I never planned on keeping it but after the first ball I was blown away by the speed of this game. I'm also not looking forward to moving this tank again so it's staying with me for the time being.

Everything works, all the scoring works, all the reels are clean, the inside of the cab is clean, soundcard works but it's rather quiet. If I turn the machine off then on and hit start game or reset, all the scoring reels reset easily with no sticking. My one and only problem is that the game doesn't end after ball 5, the ball counter just flips to a blank and you can play forever. If you turn the game off with the ball in the outhole and turn it on it will kick the ball out without resetting, so it still thinks it's continuing the previous game. The only way for me to reset is when the ball is not in kickout hole and game is turned on. I cleaned the game over switches and no effect. I though one might have needed adjusting as it didn't make sense to me, but after adjusting nothing changed so I moved it back to prevent a future issue. I assume this is an easy fix, I've fixed EM's before but now I think I'm missing something obvious. I've tried using some of the schematics poster on here but it's hard for me to make some of the switch gap info out from resolution of the scan/photo. Any ideas?

Blacklight Dragon!
I just bought mine at Allentown Pinfest!

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Does anyone know what the flipper coil specs are? We had an EOS get stuck open today and the flipper coil got toasty. I'd love to replace the EOS switches with the original big contact ones. Has anyone seen these used elsewhere?

I'm pretty sure I have a scan of my backglass. If people still need reproductions I can make one using UV cured inks. It won't be quite as vibrant but still very nice.

A friend made me a replacement sound board since my Dragons kept blowing out that section of the sound board. It's not quite as good as the original but acceptable. He may be able to make extras if anyone is in need.

Picked up a NIB Dragon last night

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Wow, what's the story behind this?

Story when I bought mine NIB from John's Jukes in 2006 was as follows: The original distributor in Canada went into receivership in the early 1980's and had just received a shipment of Dragons' from Interflip. Being the company was in receivership nothing could be done with the inventory. The bankruptcy/receivership was cleared in the early 2000's that allowed the inventory to be available to be sold. I believe John's Jukes bought the inventory and started clearing it out. That's when they were first available for purchase NIB. My machine was originally slated to be shipped to the U.S., but Interflip decided to ship it to Canada. On the outside of the box U.S. was crossed out and Canada was handwritten. My service socket is the proper flat blades for U.S. plugs not the round plug style you would expect in Canada.

Take a look at these notes to ensure safety and that it doesn't do any damage to the motors that have been sitting since production in 1979.

https://www.flippers.com/InterFlip.html

Nice pickup!!! Wow

Thanks I will check all this before turning on. The lower cabinet is new but the head is used.

Pics of opening it.

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Amazing time capsule there! Rubbers still look perfect. I'm surprised they used screws to hold the side rails..

On my machine the only rubber that has begun to deteriorate is the rebound at the top of the playfield, everything else is still good. I need to macro photograph (1 : 1 w/36MP) my dragon drop targets before any of the art is damaged by the ball so I can print replacement decals later.

I recently purchased one of the NIB Dragons that have recently surfaced. The seller mentioned they do not come with legs. What length of leg should be put on the game?

Strange..my nib dragon came w the legs. Hope this picture helps

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Bao!! Should get the unboxing done tonight and be able to start seeing how many issues she has after 47 years in a box.

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Yeah. Last one that a friend picked up had a lot of corrosion on the Jones plugs... More than I had ever seen before.

And you should Def inspect and service the two motor gearboxes.. If the grease is seized this can break some plastic gears.

Definitely some corrosion (especially the jones plugs and base of some of the bulbs). I unboxed it, swapped the rubber, and started working on cleaning contact points. Should get through the clean up tomorrow and hopefully be able to plug it in. This was the wildest thing I’ve ever unboxed. Truly a time capsule from the past. Very impressed with so much of the build.

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Didn’t take a lot to get Dragon up and going so far. It’s not 100% but I’m to the point it can play. Started with cleaning all jones plugs, swapping fuses and cleaning corrosion off the fuse connectors, swapped all bulbs out (a bunch had corrosion), swapped rubbers, general cleanup, changed the power selector on the transformer from 220 to 110, manually reset all score reels to zero. At that point I was getting some action. Manually added some credits, and finally got a game started. Definitely still a lot of cleaning to be done on the used head, but the game seems to be playing pretty well.