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You guys must be wizards with the Hakko, it takes me nearly an hour to depopulate the 40 or so components. The bent over leads are the real time suck. The best way I've found so far is to cut the resistors flush with the board, pull the remainder of the leads out the bottom, and then suck the holes clean. The results are clearly worth it to me.
I also had a bad U1 on one of my displays, pretty easy to figure out, and luckily I had a couple.
I used the plasma leads on all of mine,but glancing at the directions for the right-angle headers, it looked pretty confusing. I found it easier to remove the old glass first thing, rather than waiting until after the board was repopulated.
And to answer your question, yes, I'd order more kits as needed, just don't need any right now. I used to have a bunch of Bally 17/35 games, hard to believe I'm down to one.
Quoted from Drewscruis:I know the chances of it coming loose are slim, but I preferred to use tin coated solid wire as it is a more solid connection.
Fair enough, I just hope you're wrong.
Quoted from Cheddar:4 of my boards already had the glass removed. I removed the glass from the 5th for consistency
Well, that makes sense.
I didn't get along well with the foam, and ended up trashing it. I can't tell on Xenon where it would make any difference. Didn't use any 2N5401s, but nice to have a spare or two. I did need one U1, but that's not something I'd expect in this kit.
Quoted from acebathound:Anyone that's done "BLUE" in XENON, if you can take a picture with the backglass in the machine that would be awesome.
Native blue digits.
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