yeah I am in for this! I would like multiple color options on the LED if possible.
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I'm down for 4x 7 and 1x 6 all in white with blue filters (if you sell filters too). Should look awesome in Xenon
I personally would love a sale on the bally bench display. It can be difficult to use the switch tester in the cab when you can't see the displays!
So while we're waiting for these I think it would be cool to have a technical discussion about preparing old displays for upgrade when the glass doesn't work.
Will it be safe to troubleshoot a board with the leds attached or can the decoder be tested on the bench?
Any ideas?
ok good info. I guess it would be easy to test the resistors and transistors on the bench and then I only have the decoder to worry about.
Quoted from acebathound:May take you up on that & possibly grab a few other displays from you too!
Just leave me enough 7s to do my xenon
Quoted from acebathound:Stern DA-300 successfully tested thanks to the donor from Cheddar =]
Did the board work as-is or did you have to fix it first?
I bought a box a non working displays a couple months ago. It was more expensive to ship 27 displays than to pay for them
Anybody in Northern CA and Central Valley having desoldering issues let me know. I have the hakko and can pull components for the wary
In the middle of converting a Bally 7 digit to LED
Here's is the donor board with the components removed.
IMAG1810 (resized).jpg
Repopulated
I need to work on getting the components to stay flat. NOTE: I moved the jumper to the bottom of the board for clearance.
IMAG1812 (resized).jpg
LED BoardIMAG1817 (resized).jpg
I used recycled leads instead of the included header pins. I missed that instruction the first time.
Final ResultsIMAG1816 (resized).jpg
Note exposure reduced for clarity. I chose the default resistors for brightness
Can you give extended instructions on enabling the commas. I'm not understanding the ones in the guide
Quoted from acebathound:For the resistors you might find one of those cheap lead formers handy. I've gotten pretty good at sizing resistor bends on my fingertip.. and swiping down with the opposing hand's index finger & thumb to bend the leads. I usually find a good place on my finger to set the resistor and get a consistent bend.
For the mosfets, I first bend the middle lead back at a 90 degree angle to the bottom of the mosfet body. Then the two outer legs get bent forward at a 90 degree angle to the bottom of the mosfet. Then put your 90 degree bend on the front legs maybe 1/4" from the mosfet body. Leave the middle lead as it is.. and put the middle lead in the footprint hole first.. push it in most of the way, then fit the 2 front leads in their footprint hole. I'll try to document that better at some point. A bit hard to explain without a few pictures
No this makes sense although I would just do the bend in the middle leg. I'll try this on the next board
Quoted from acebathound:Looks like you already have the "COM" signal wired between the LED digit panel & plasma footprint.
If you then bridge the smd pads on the back of the digit panel (see picture below) the decimal should then light.
Thanks!
Quoted from johninc:Done!
Can you give us an average time estimate? Did you do the full component removal?
Quoted from acebathound:How have you all been dealing with those bent over resistor leads on some boards? Any tips there?
Bench grinder?
yeah I am in for more kits. I've got 2 done and 2 7 digits stripped and ready to repopulate.
I had the chip bad on my last display and it caused all of my displays to only display 2 segments whenever the display was plugged in. This might be a good addition to the issues section.
My only suggestions on the kits so far:
1. Pic of the comma enable pads and com
2. Label the resistors on the tape
3. Clarify the nylon washer goes on top of the board (7 digit bally)
4. On Bally 7 251858 R62 is labeled in a weird place and it's possible confuse it with R61 (and it looks like it might be the label for R29). It would be cool to call this out in the doc
5. Bench testing these is a pain. Could you offer a harness to connect to a PC power supply? It would cover pins 10-20 and have an alligator clip for the digit lines. I'll see if I can make one today.
I'll tinker around with the header pins as well. That's the only other PITA I can see.
Quoted from acebathound:The end result when all those right-angle header pins are soldered in looks pretty nice I think.
agreed. much better finish. If you make another run can you make those holes slightly bigger?
I would also be interested in a williams conversion set. The display boards are dead simple. Solder on the digits and the pins. The master would need multiple variants for digits, alpha and early with integrated master
Quoted from acebathound:Those are actually WHITE digits being used as WHITE in Centaur. I think the camera just couldn't handle how bright they were and did this blue aura thing Ghostly!
They look great in person
Quoted from vid1900:Wow, that's crazy!
Is that from a cellphone or a real camera?
cell phone.
Quoted from johninc:Am I the only one that used the old plasma leads? I wonder why, it was pretty simple.
4 of my boards already had the glass removed. I removed the glass from the 5th for consistency
I used the foam it it helps a lot. I didn't use any of the 2N5401s. 5 displays later now I have a whole bunch of them
Quoted from acebathound:Here's one, lower amperage on the input.. but also only 30mA available on the output. Not sure how much the plasma displays need, I don't think much though.
The fuse is only an 1/8th amp
Quoted from acebathound:Playboy might look nice with MAGENTA, BLUE OR PURPLE. RED too. Like I said, if you really get looking at things many backglasses work with many colors.
Again these are just mock-ups.
How could playboy not have pink?
Quoted from acebathound:Were the -21s the first single-sided boards you modified?
At least 1 of them had some repairs before they decided the glass was bad.
Red looks hot in that strikes and spares! Yellow is really unique though and has wow factor as you never see yellow.
Quoted from eh97ac:Love these kits, so easy especially after a couple of completed boards.
Some tips for newbs and issues I ran into...all my issues
Take a pic of the 1st de-populated board, top and bottom....helps out with the next board in line.
New header pins (minus pin#1 ) solve issues....trust me.
Extra large solder blobs are bad, check your work.
Missing 1 solder point is bad, check your work.
All good advice. I did all 5 boards at once:
Depop
1 value resistor on all 5 boards
Etc...
I like the idea of neutral filters. Maybe an add-on to include them with the kits in addition to other filters. I'd like to add these to my Centaur
Hey here's a tech support request:
I have one segment (C) out on the 10s digit The segment driver and the decoder have been replaced. Using a test harness the same segment is out on both digits when I put 5v to pins 4&5 and 5&6. In gameplay only this digit has the segment out.
Any ideas?
Thanks
Quoted from acebathound:Is that for a 7-digit Bally display? Asking since the comma circuit gets activated based on Segment C and E being activated, so the comma circuit is a possible suspect for issues with those segments.
Sorry it's just a 6 digit. Looking at a resistor that tests at 150K in circuit when it should be 300K. Trying to find the schematic for this display as well.
Quoted from acebathound:And January's RETROFIT GALLERY CONTEST winner is...
Congrats! Let me know what type of nvram you'd like via PM!
Kind of funny, I went to pick the name myself this afternoon and picked "Cheddar", but then figured since my wife has picked all the winners for contests I better let her pick. She also picked "Cheddar"
Who wouldn't?
Quoted from acebathound:Looks nice! Are those staying WHITE then? White looks decent on its own in a lot of machines.
I gave him a set of neutral filters but he likes this better. I haven't been able to put the filters on centaur either. The white just POPS!
Quoted from acebathound:Oh purple will be awesome, definitely get some pictures! Lacking a ton of color options in the RETROFIT GALLERY. Thanks for submitting some photos and helping to fill it up
Purple and a 7 digit conversion. I am looking forward to it. I even had a little pcb printed for the conversion (based on a pinball4u design), so it's been a cool experience!
I'm on my 5th conversion with the 6th in line. I could see my self buying more 6 digit kits. For 7 digit I will probably by the full kit from you.
Quoted from emsrph:I'll be in for a set of 6 digit displays as a full kit. I don't want to destroy five fully working displays to do the conversion. If I had five 6 digit pcbs laying around...
When I did the 7 digit conversion kit the donor displays had issues so that was an appropriate way to recycle them.
Eric
Eric I have some 6 digit boards I'll sell you.
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