(Topic ID: 153216)

RETROFIT Classic Bally/Stern DIY Plasma-to-LED Conversion Display Kits


By acebathound

4 years ago



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#401 3 years ago

My only suggestion would be to get rid of the white boxes around the digits silk screened on the board. Might be my OCD but I've been blacking them out.

#402 3 years ago
Quoted from Drewscruis:

My only suggestion would be to get rid of the white boxes around the digits silk screened on the board. Might be my OCD but I've been blacking them out.

Seems like it really depends if they're being used without the foam tape, which most of the time I'd think the foam would be desired since the light from the backbox is otherwise visible. The lines are there initially since they're the exact dimension of the digit & help when lining things up. Then they're just left there after pcb design to help show where the digit goes & also slightly just for the "artwork" since they then make the blank pcb look like something.

I could do something about them, I was messing around with just having a slight corner marking at each of the corners. But to me it takes away from the artwork on the pcb then And I'd really think the majority of people are going to want to use *something* around the digits to block the light, so the lines wouldn't be visible then. Not trying to create any more work than needed for anyone, just looking at what the majority of people might be doing and basing decisions on that.

#403 3 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

I'm certainly no board designer, but maybe elongate the pads like they did on this PinLED Bally board that I was repairing a few days ago?

Tried this, even changing the pad to an oval and minimally increasing the width is creating clearance issues with the previously routed traces. With the number of digits on the board, you have to watch trace size and pad size otherwise it starts getting heavy on the vias pretty quick.

I'm really not against this change at all sometime in the future, just don't want to mess around with something that is going to cause a complete re-route of all the traces right now, especially with PCB orders in the $500-$1000 range. It's just too much to risk without doing a smaller run of pcbs first, but that then delays availability and gets costly as well. I'm still trying to get out of red on this project.. and it looks like I'll be doing that for a bit yet, so it really comes down to not wanting to take the risk for something that is at this point a nice-to-have item and hasn't caused anyone problems yet. If it becomes a problem or I need to re-route for other reasons, I'll definitely keep this in mind. Of course if I could just resize without rerouting all the traces, I'd already have done it It's mainly because of the complete reroute this would entail that I'm going to leave it as-is right now.

#404 3 years ago

I've created a pre-order sign-up (well, really an "expression of interest list") for the 2nd run of PCBs. If you're interested in trying a kit & want to be reasonably sure you get in on the 2nd run of PCBs, please get yourself added to the list. Not asking for payment at this time, but just be sure if you add yourself you're pretty certain you'll be ordering when the materials come in.

Sign-up is at the bottom of this page:
http://www.pinitech.com/products/ballystern_conversion_led_display.php

I'm limited to about a dozen sets of each color right now since led digits are in short supply. This should work better than separate PMs or people commenting on the thread & help me figure out if there's going to be much demand after a few small runs of these

#405 3 years ago

Happy to announce I'm receiving some submissions via the form and I don't need anyone to resubmit lol Thanks guys! Nice to see people putting their Pinside username in there, that makes it easier to contact via Pinside when the materials come in.

Going to be short on WHITE digits for the 2ND round from the response so far. In that sense it's good I just put in an order for more WHITE as there's a 40-50 day lead time on getting new digits in. Unfortunately for me the min order quantity jumped twice now since I ordered the digits.. from 1000pcs to 2000pcs and now 5000pcs. And these digits aren't cheap! So to at least keep things rolling, I just decided to order the most-versatile of digits at this point.. but that's why on the form I'm asking for opinions on native BLUE/AMBER digits going forward. On that note, it's good to see WHITE is popular.. I'm happy with the colors achieved with the filters for sure and it's neat to be able to change them to anything.

Now I just need to figure out how to streamline things and actually make a bit of a profit to keep this going These kits are for sure costly in materials and the materials go pretty quick with the number of digits/components being used.

Thanks again to everyone for posting some pictures of their completed displays. It's always great to see a project or product come to life! And it's pretty cool seeing what different colored displays do for many of these games!

#406 3 years ago

I am not sure that including resistors for the different brightnesses is necessary. You might want to ask what brightness (low/med/high) is wanted. That would lower the cost a little
Zero ohms resistors, i personally would have preferred pre-formed wire. Might be cheaper to procure.
Less spare transistors per kit.
One of your big saving, I believe, is on the pcb. I know the pcb looks fantastic and you can feel the quality and were a charm to solder. No sure it is necessary though. A cheaper type would work as well.
Hope the digits are cheaper by buying that big quantity and did not left the same price. If they are specially made, can you get them with the black body?
Maybe the foam could be replaced by a cheaper solution? I am thinking of something like a cheap blanking panel clipping on the board or the display.

Hope you will be able to break even soon, at least on parts. R&D is another beast.

I am tempted to order another kit as i plan to get another pin. So, after what you have left, you expect next batch in about 2-3 months?

#407 3 years ago
Quoted from Andyball:

I am not sure that including resistors for the different brightnesses is necessary. You might want to ask what brightness (low/med/high) is wanted. That would lower the cost a little
Zero ohms resistors, i personally would have preferred pre-formed wire. Might be cheaper to procure.

IMO sticking with just the higher ohm value for BLUE & lower ohm value for WHITE is the way to go. But there's a caveat in that some people may want to use the WHITE digits as WHITE (ie. in Centaur) and in that case a higher ohm value resistor is better (or to offer a neutral density filter).

It's not so much a cost savings on not including two sets, as much as it probably is that "what the heck do I do with these extra parts?" scenario.

Quoted from Andyball:

Less spare transistors per kit.

Yep.. seems the 2N5401s aren't really necessary, nice to know others had the same experience I did. Rarely do those have to be swapped out because of a dim digit. I could omit them entirely or just include 1-2x per kit.

Quoted from Andyball:

One of your big saving, I believe, is on the pcb. I know the pcb looks fantastic and you can feel the quality and were a charm to solder. No sure it is necessary though. A cheaper type would work as well.

PCBs are one of the more expensive parts -- along with the digits. Now that I'll be ordering a few hundred PCBs at a time, the costs will be slightly less so that'll help some.

Quoted from Andyball:

Hope the digits are cheaper by buying that big quantity and did not left the same price. If they are specially made, can you get them with the black body?

Pricing is like fractions of a cent cheaper between 1000pcs and 5000pcs unfortunately. Supplier left me no choice though, it was 5000pcs or nothing. I chose WHITE for right now. These aren't custom digits at this point.. really not sure what the capabilities are there with having a black edge.

Quoted from Andyball:

Maybe the foam could be replaced by a cheaper solution? I am thinking of something like a cheap blanking panel clipping on the board or the display.

What I'm using was bought in bulk. It's not ideal but it was cheap and works okay. I may look into custom-molded foam at some point, but initial quotes I got were PRICEY.

Quoted from Andyball:

I am tempted to order another kit as i plan to get another pin. So, after what you have left, you expect next batch in about 2-3 months?

Yep, once the 500x or so WHITE digits I have are gone.. it'll probably be November time-frame when I have more WHITE digits in.

#408 3 years ago

Is there interest in a plug-in PCB (at the J1 header) to test the converted displays? I can either offer wire harnesses that would just light an "8" up.. or do a small PCB that would have more functionality. Probably toggling of the BCD data so you could set any digit.. and an alligator clip (like Cheddar showed with his harness) to connect to the various digit lines.

I'd just like to know it's going to sell more than 5-10x if I do it though It's not like it'll take a huge amount of development effort, just that I don't need to be ordering in yet more Molex parts or SIP resistors that only get used for a single board design.

#409 3 years ago
Quoted from acebathound:

Is there interest in a plug-in PCB (at the J1 header) to test the converted displays?

I'd be interested in a small self-contained display tester of some sort, like a modern & compact version of a bally brown box display tester if it could test both the led displays and the glass displays.

Then I could tell you how many conversion kits I'd need

#410 3 years ago
Quoted from acebathound:

Is there interest in a plug-in PCB (at the J1 header) to test the converted displays? I can either offer wire harnesses that would just light an "8" up.. or do a small PCB that would have more functionality. Probably toggling of the BCD data so you could set any digit.. and an alligator clip (like Cheddar showed with his harness) to connect to the various digit lines.
I'd just like to know it's going to sell more than 5-10x if I do it though It's not like it'll take a huge amount of development effort, just that I don't need to be ordering in yet more Molex parts or SIP resistors that only get used for a single board design.

I'm game for that. I'm using a jamma harness/fingerboard from my test rig (for video games) to power these. I could just add it to that and have a plug and play solution.

#411 3 years ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:

I'd be interested in a small self-contained display tester of some sort, like a modern & compact version of a bally brown box display tester if it could test both the led displays and the glass displays.
Then I could tell you how many conversion kits I'd need

unfortunately, the brown box also supplies the 190vdc and would be necessary for testing the original glass displays. That would greatly increase the price of a tester beyond something you can run off a switcher.

#412 3 years ago
Quoted from CactusJack:

he brown box also supplies the 190vdc

Yeah, that's always been the big catch, unfortunately. The few homebrew testers I've seen use a giant-sized professional bench-top adjustable power supply. I know you can boost voltage by sacrificing amperage, but I'm not an engineer and don't know the best way to do this without a big heavy transformer. I've also seen some modern single-voltage transformers that are about the size of a small muffin, but not quite as high as 190v.

Also, there's this interesting tester that was build for gottlieb displays, but it only needs 69v for the display: http://www.flipprojets.fr/Testdisplay_EN.php

#413 3 years ago

A "step up" regulator could probably be designed using a low voltage 120vac transformer in reverse. But is there really much of a market for a bench top display tester? Especially now that the plasma tubes are no longer being made.

#414 3 years ago

Here is a simple circuit I found by searching "HV step up regulator"

http://www.dos4ever.com/flyback/flyback7.gif

#415 3 years ago
Quoted from CactusJack:

A "step up" regulator could probably be designed using a low voltage 120vac transformer in reverse. But is there really much of a market for a bench top display tester? Especially now that the plasma tubes are no longer being made.

Diagnostic equipment is always going to be a small market.

I have boxes of displays awaiting testing, and I don't always have a compatible game set up and running to test them, or would necessarily want to plug them into a working game in case a short blows something up in the game itself.

#416 3 years ago

Leave it to China to offer an inexpensive version of what we need:

ebay.com link » Dc12v 24 To Dc 100 250v 70w High Voltage Converter Boost Step Up Power Supply

But it appears it is a power hog (7amps) so the test rig would need a 10 amp 12 volt switcher.

#417 3 years ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:

Diagnostic equipment is always going to be a small market.

Amen to that. I got side-tracked into diagnostic equipment products for *years* and although it's been neat to build that stuff, I screwed myself pretty big in not dumping more time into figuring out faster assembly techniques of nvram (the only thing I've done that stood a chance of selling in high volume). Those adapters just took too long to build, thus the $25 per adapter price per adapter for a while. I didn't focus on the assembly "problem" and I should have. My lesson is to spend more time on figuring out how to be stream-lined with products that stand a chance in selling in volume.. and less time creating or stream-lining the really low volume stuff.

I'm going to be pretty choosy with diagnostic tools going forward, I've niche'd myself out of funding over the years just doing that stuff. It's like reinventing the wheel over and over.. and in the end you're stuck with a lot of pcbs and materials purchased in bulk because the market taps out quick. Better I spend some time on once-per-game products versus once-per-individual. That said, if I can find a few products that can provide some consistent funding, I'll continue doing *some* level of diagnostic equipment, but mostly the stuff I need first and foremost.

#418 3 years ago
Quoted from CactusJack:

Leave it to China to offer an inexpensive version of what we need:
ebay.com link ยป Dc12v 24 To Dc 100 250v 70w High Voltage Converter Boost Step Up Power Supply
But it appears it is a power hog (7amps) so the test rig would need a 10 amp 12 volt switcher.

Here's one, lower amperage on the input.. but also only 30mA available on the output. Not sure how much the plasma displays need, I don't think much though.

ebay.com link » Dc Dc High Efficiency Voltage Boost Board For 6e2 6e1 6e5 Tube Pre Amp 12v 180v

Another, output adjustable..
ebay.com link » Dc Dc 45 390v High Voltage Boost Converter Module Constant Current Adjustable

Anyway, I'll not be doing something for testing plasma displays. Not worth the headache... potential exposure to high voltage to the end user anywhere on the boost converter PCB or diagnostic PCB. The market would be very small. I'm also aware of someone that was using a boost converter successfully to test Bally displays until it at some point went up in smoke for no reason.

#419 3 years ago
Quoted from acebathound:

Here's one, lower amperage on the input.. but also only 30mA available on the output. Not sure how much the plasma displays need, I don't think much though.

The fuse is only an 1/8th amp

#420 3 years ago

Would you have enough kits left on this pre-order to populated two 6 digit games and three 7 digit games?

#421 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinballer73:

Would you have enough kits left on this pre-order to populated two 6 digit games and three 7 digit games?

From current counts it looks like I'll be out of WHITE digits. Still have plenty of BLUE digits at the moment. Doesn't hurt to get on the list regardless, if someone drops out or people order less I'll contact the next person in-line.

I'm pretty sure the 2nd round of these kits will happen around mid-October. I have PCBs due in at the end of Sept, but some other personal commitments in early Oct... and these will take a few days to get ready, I also want to update the instructions a bit if possible. So at this point that looks like the time-frame I'd have kits ready and begin contacting people on the list.. I won't be asking for payment until I have kits ready to ship.

#422 3 years ago
Quoted from acebathound:

From current counts it looks like I'll be out of WHITE digits. Still have plenty of BLUE digits at the moment. Doesn't hurt to get on the list regardless, if someone drops out or people order less I'll contact the next person in-line.
I'm pretty sure the 2nd round of these kits will happen around mid-October. I have PCBs due in at the end of Sept, but some other personal commitments in early Oct... and these will take a few days to get ready, I also want to update the instructions a bit if possible. So at this point that looks like the time-frame I'd have kits ready and begin contacting people on the list.. I won't be asking for payment until I have kits ready to ship.

Ok, please add me to the list and if someone drops out, I'm in. Thanks for what you are doing by making these kits available.

#423 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinballer73:

Ok, please add me to the list and if someone drops out, I'm in. Thanks for what you are doing by making these kits available.

Can you add yourself via the form at the bottom of this page?

http://www.pinitech.com/products/ballystern_conversion_led_display.php

This makes it easier for me to keep track of things & to contact people in-order of submissions received.

Thanks!

#424 3 years ago
Quoted from acebathound:

I'm going to get another PCB order in within the next few days. Should have another handful of kits available then in a few weeks as long as some other materials come as well.

Here's a change I think will be good though. Just silkscreen, but hopefully will help with future "WTF is this?" thoughts on these boards..

A few other silkscreen changes on the back, but everything else is staying the same. I'll be identifying the COMMA/DECIMAL enable smd pads on the back of the 7-digit board to make that easier to locate too.

I'm constantly amazed when I see how much you can go into details, you really passionate in what you do and I really admire you on that.

I'm also concerned about details in the different layouts I have developped but you win with no doubts.

#425 3 years ago

If anyone's had issues with submitting via the form, let me know -- there's a SUBMIT button at the bottom that may have been hidden on some web browsers since the pop-up is CSS window and wasn't really made for a longer form. As long as you clicked SUBMIT and saw the confirmation message you should be ok. If you didn't see a submit button or part of the form was hidden from view, then I probably didn't receive anything. I've made some modifications so it hopefully works better.

#426 3 years ago

I know I hit "SUBMIT", but I don't recall if there was a confirmation or not... I need to learn to pay attention a bit better!

#427 3 years ago

My feedback is a little late in coming but here it goes Experienced folks need not read, I'm quite junior working with boards so other inexperienced people may take something away form what I've written.

Great kit... as others have said, the packing is fantastic, no way I'd get all that stuff back in the box! I'm probably selling myself a little short but I think my soldering skills are at the 'beginner level'. I don't have a desoldering station, I use a manual pump and desolder braid when the need arises... no braid for this project mind you. I've used an iron for years and I've even done a playfield swap before but when compared to my peers here on pinside or previously on rgp I always feel like a rookie, my actual board work is limited short of swapping out a couple of components on a light display board or reflowing the solder on some header pins I'd say this is the most of I've done in a long long while.

With all that being said, I think I did alright on my first board. Instructions are GREAT! very detailed, I know they were the first draft but for someone like myself pictures are priceless and more would make the instructions better. As noted in the directions I found myself flipping the board over and back numerous times to be sure I was getting the right component after I a while I got the hang of it and needed to it do it less and I suspect the rest of the boards should go much quicker.

I spent probably 2 hours across the last two evenings doing my first board and a lot of that time was reading and re-reading the directions. Actual time with the iron in my hand has to be less than an hour. I'm just really slow .

I don't have a power supply on my bench so i did not test the board prior to putting in the machine so I just crossed my fingers and flipped the switch. The displays all lit up but lit up a little too well... all digits had a 1 displayed on them, but not in full brightness. When I played a game the digits all worked great and the ones that were supposed to be bright were. Its getting late here and I wanted to give some feedback and it just dawned on my that I believe I skipped a step and didn't cut the 2.2K pull-up resistors off the board and that has me wondering if that may be causing my problem! I'll check that out tomorrow.

Overall I think this is a great kit, it was fun to work on and I look forward to finishing off all my boards. The Blue LED's look great. I figure this kit is great for beginners through to to advanced. Thanks for putting it altogether and for including me in the Beta.

Edit: I clipped the 2.2K resistors off this morning and I still see faint 1's across all my digits, time to do some troubleshooting I suppose.

#428 3 years ago

Just an FYI, when I tested my display (I've only done one so far), I plugged it in and powered up and it displayed the last game score and HSTD properly, but some of the unused segments were lit dimly. You can actually see this in the pic I posted earlier, which I took right after powering up for the first time. During a game the display had erratic behavior. Sometimes segments would flicker. Sometimes display would freeze, then "catch up" on a spinner shot or bonus countdown. It would behave differently depending which player # or machine it was plugged into.

I checked for cold solder joints and solder bridges during assembly so I knew that wasn't it. The only thing left was the decoder chip. I replaced it and everything worked perfectly. I've never had one that was intermittent like that before. And of course, I couldn't test the display beforehand.

Bottom line: Check for cold solder joints and bridges, then replace the decoder chip if the display doesn't work properly.

#429 3 years ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

Bottom line: Check for cold solder joints and bridges, then replace the decoder chip if the display doesn't work properly.

I'll double check for cold solder joins and see if I can find any unintended bridges... the decoder chip doesn't look like any fun to track down. Great Plains has them but that will take a bit to arrive and I'm not having much luck searching other sources for the MC14543LE.

I think I'll try another board and see how that goes if I can't find any cold solder joints or bridges.

#430 3 years ago

If you have any junk boards maybe you could pull the chip off of it.

#431 3 years ago
Quoted from roar:

I'll double check for cold solder joins and see if I can find any unintended bridges... the decoder chip doesn't look like any fun to track down. Great Plains has them but that will take a bit to arrive and I'm not having much luck searching other sources for the MC14543LE.

Try searching for part CD4543 -- should be widely available from electronics distributors, eBay, etc

#432 3 years ago
Quoted from acebathound:

Try searching for part CD4543 -- should be widely available from electronics distributors, eBay, etc

Search for the right part number and they show up! More expensive then from Great Plains, but they will get here by the end of the week.

http://www.digikey.ca/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&itemSeq=206729296&uq=636092801183747354

I think these should work these sockets:

http://www.digikey.ca/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&itemSeq=206729443&uq=636092801183757355

#433 3 years ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

Just an FYI, when I tested my display (I've only done one so far), I plugged it in and powered up and it displayed the last game score and HSTD properly, but some of the unused segments were lit dimly. You can actually see this in the pic I posted earlier, which I took right after powering up for the first time. During a game the display had erratic behavior. Sometimes segments would flicker. Sometimes display would freeze, then "catch up" on a spinner shot or bonus countdown. It would behave differently depending which player # or machine it was plugged into.
I checked for cold solder joints and solder bridges during assembly so I knew that wasn't it. The only thing left was the decoder chip. I replaced it and everything worked perfectly. I've never had one that was intermittent like that before. And of course, I couldn't test the display beforehand.
Bottom line: Check for cold solder joints and bridges, then replace the decoder chip if the display doesn't work properly.

When something like the spinner is going off, interrupts are going to stack up and possibly updating the display might get skipped in a cycle. I notice in lamp matrix'd game with LEDs when the CPU has to stop and do lots of work, the feature lamps can begin to blink a little bit. I assume because the interrupt isnt happening on every cycle because the CPU is busy. This kind of effect might show up worse do to the nature of how LEDs work.

For segments dimmly being lit when they should be off, I wonder if the 4543 outputs needs something on them to keep the driver transistor all the way off. Or maybe noise from somewhere else is leaking into the displays. Doesnt take much to get some light out of an LED. Maybe some kind of filter over the display so you don't notice the dim lit segments.

#434 3 years ago
Quoted from barakandl:

When something like the spinner is going off, interrupts are going to stack up and possibly updating the display might get skipped in a cycle. I notice in lamp matrix'd game with LEDs when the CPU has to stop and do lots of work, the feature lamps can begin to blink a little bit. I assume because the interrupt isnt happening on every cycle because the CPU is busy. This kind of effect might show up worse do to the nature of how LEDs work.
For segments dimmly being lit when they should be off, I wonder if the 4543 outputs needs something on them to keep the driver transistor all the way off. Or maybe noise from somewhere else is leaking into the displays. Doesnt take much to get some light out of an LED. Maybe some kind of filter over the display so you don't notice the dim lit segments.

I thought some of this might be related to the nature of LEDs too, but not in this case. Replacing the 4543 resolved all of the issues.

#435 3 years ago
Quoted from barakandl:

For segments dimmly being lit when they should be off, I wonder if the 4543 outputs needs something on them to keep the driver transistor all the way off. Or maybe noise from somewhere else is leaking into the displays. Doesnt take much to get some light out of an LED. Maybe some kind of filter over the display so you don't notice the dim lit segments.

Normal functioning of modified displays won't exhibit this issue. In a dark room, no segments should be lit (even ever so faintly). Sounds like the parallel resistor method may have been used here, which as far as I'm aware would be the first person that used that method -- so could be a step that was missed or a few resistors were soldered in the wrong place since some of the silkscreen markings on these boards make it hard to know which resistor is which (unless you're looking at color codes of the original resistor).

My suggestion would be to compare resistors on the front for each value resistance. So for a group of 0k resistors, flip the board back and forth and compare the resistor color of the original resistor with the 7x or so other original resistors where a 0k was soldered. Do that for each value resistance. It's likely on the segment driver circuit, so you should only need to compare the zero ohm & then whichever value resistance you used to set segment brightness.

It's also quite likely to be the 4543 though.. those can partially die and do some weird things.

#436 3 years ago

I did a full remove/repopulate. It was just a weird 4543.

#437 3 years ago

I did do the soldering in parallel, I will do a review of my board for sure and see if I can find any mistakes I may have made... I don't have any trouble believing it is me behind the error

#438 3 years ago
Quoted from RocketFromTombs:

I know I hit "SUBMIT", but I don't recall if there was a confirmation or not... I need to learn to pay attention a bit better!

Yep, you're on the list

Quoted from roar:

I did do the soldering in parallel, I will do a review of my board for sure and see if I can find any mistakes I may have made... I don't have any trouble believing it is me behind the error

I wouldn't be surprised if the new 4543 fixes the issue. There's a *chance* it's a solder bridge somewhere, but more likely you'd have a segment lock on or not light at all.. or maybe light when another segment turns on. I had a decimal lighting when it shouldn't have because I had a solder bridge on one board. If you want, email me a picture of the front & back of the board & I can compare quick to my own displays I did with parallel resistors. But yeah otherwise I'd not spend too much time on it until you get a new 4543 in there since that chip can fail all kinds of odd ways and might be your only issue.

#439 3 years ago

Here is the depopulation guide for the Bally AS2518-15

15-DEPOPULATE (resized).jpg

#440 3 years ago

Here is the Population Guide for the Bally AS2518-15

15-POPULATED (resized).jpg

#441 3 years ago

Just registered my interest for a few sets.

#442 3 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Here is the Population Guide for the Bally AS2518-15

Vid, thanks for posting these, I like the format of them! I had plans to do something with showing pictures of the different model boards and identifying components, but you went a step further than what I was going to do by showing with the components depopulated & then writing in the values. Makes it very easy to identify what needs to be removed & dead-simple to repopulate! You're welcome to create that other thread we discussed any time over the next month as is convenient if that makes it easier to organize your pictures, steps, tips, techniques, etc. No rush on that at all though, since I won't be shipping much for the 2nd batch of pcbs until around mid-October due to other commitments I have between now and then.

Couple of notes..

  • I'll be changing over to a 47k resistor (instead of the 100k). No reason other than I had to order more resistors, and that 100k value was initially chosen because I had a higher base resistor value at one point. Instructions will mention both as possible values included with the kit for a bit.
  • I'm going to go with a single value for the brightness resistors dependent on the led digit color since I'd bet most people went with the recommended higher ohm value for BLUE and lower ohm value for WHITE. Really has nothing to do with cost savings so much that feedback seemed to indicate the secondary value wasn't necessary & when it came time to order resistors, that value turned out to be OOS anyway.
#443 3 years ago

I continue to follow others experiences. Spending all of my time repairing other peoples games and can't get to my own stuff. Can't wait to build these.

1 week later
#444 3 years ago

Gotta say that the instructions are great, I was expecting ambiguous notes and null references. Adding a de-populated Stern "Curvy" DA 100 to the pic repository.

a2bdb317-cc27-403e-8e9c-c48ae1da5d1c (resized).jpeg

1 week later
#445 3 years ago

Will this kit work with the Stern DA-300 display board?

#446 3 years ago
Quoted from RoyF:

Will this kit work with the Stern DA-300 display board?

Yep.

IMG_8541 (resized).JPG

IMG_8545 (resized).JPG

#447 3 years ago

Wait, how come your DA-300 is blue? All mine are white!

#448 3 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Wait, how come your DA-300 is blue? All mine are white!

He paid extra!

#449 3 years ago

Any trouble identifying the component locations for removing old components and installing new components on the DA-300 board? Not sure if it matters if Rev A, B, or C board?

Will the comma (well, dot on these LEDs) work fine when the DA-300 is retrofitted and installed in a Stern game that uses 7-digit displays?

#450 3 years ago
Quoted from RoyF:

Any trouble identifying the component locations for removing old components and installing new components on the DA-300 board? Not sure if it matters if Rev A, B, or C board?
Will the comma (well, dot on these LEDs) work fine when the DA-300 is retrofitted and installed in a Stern game that uses 7-digit displays?

Rev A,B,C should not make a difference there -- at least in any of the other 6-digit and 7-digit model displays it has not. I've mostly seen Rev C DA-300s in pictures posted & with the DA-300's I have (not many).

List of components to remove/replace have been standardized so there's not a massive list of display models, revisions & what to replace. It's simplified to a list for 7-digit Stern, 7-digit Bally and 6-digit Stern/Bally.

No comma/decimal on the DA-300's as the original boards did not include comma circuitry on the component board.

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