(Topic ID: 153216)

RETROFIT Classic Bally/Stern DIY Plasma-to-LED Conversion Display Kits


By acebathound

4 years ago



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#251 3 years ago

Can't claim that the colors are spot-on, but this should be a more accurate representation than other pictures I took. Used a better camera and messed around with ISO, etc until colors seemed closer to what I was seeing in person. So here's what a rainbow display looks like WHITE display with various 1" color filters on it. The left-most digit is without a filter.

display_colors_(resized).jpg

#252 3 years ago

Looks sharp! Those white digits are going to look great in centaur

#253 3 years ago
Quoted from Cheddar:

Looks sharp! Those white digits are going to look great in centaur

I was thinking of going with black digits

#254 3 years ago

Acebathound

1. Agree, buying more pinballs will increase the number of needing displays. Hope I will have this issue soon! Due to limited space, i also have to be choosy... Unless it is a great deal . It is nice to recycle and keeping it original. This should please some collectors(hopefully). My nirvana is to have one pinball for each era(em, early 80s, late 80s, 90s and 2000s)
2. For me it is full desolder. I understand that parallel soldering is easier. It may cause some other issues. You will also have to have 2 configs of parts. I use Pace equipment. With 90 degrees angled lead, it is straightened with the desoldering tip then sucked up. It is done in about 5-7 seconds per lead. Need a little practice but easy once you get the hang of it.
3. As for the display color, I am kind of debating the color to choose. I am a little reticent to change the original amber color as I feel that I am "cheating" the intended design. However, with the white display, it is very easy to experiment. So I feel good

#255 3 years ago
Quoted from Andyball:

For me it is full desolder. I understand that parallel soldering is easier. It may cause some other issues. You will also have to have 2 configs of parts. I use Pace equipment. With 90 degrees angled lead, it is straightened with the desoldering tip then sucked up. It is done in about 5-7 seconds per lead. Need a little practice but easy once you get the hang of it.

Actually what's nice is in this case the same resistors could be used either way. The values aren't too critical on what's being replaced, except for the current limiting resistors on the segments. When soldering in parallel it'll drop the resistance some and displays will be a bit brighter. Easy enough fix though since you can just snip the factory-soldered resistor from the top side of the board if you're mixing & matching displays that were done by soldering resistors in parallel & displays that had components fully replaced.

As for the display color, I am kind of debating the color to choose. I am a little reticent to change the original amber color as I feel that I am "cheating" the intended design. However, with the white display, it is very easy to experiment. So I feel good

I don't think you're alone there. Same thing seems like it happened with regular led bulbs *way back* and most people didn't want to change the game look too drastically from original. Now look at how much people customize their leds.. colored bulbs in GI lighting to accent or highlight different areas of the playfield, different colors in the feature lamps. Just a matter of time before more and more people are very accepting of complimenting and even contrasting colors in the displays. But you're exactly right.. WHITE gives you the chance to experiment or go back to a more original look. Best of both worlds

#256 3 years ago

Sucks that it requires so much component replacement on the boards, really. I'm going to have to work on my desoldering skills.

#257 3 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

Sucks that it requires so much component replacement on the boards, really. I'm going to have to work on my desoldering skills.

If you have some dead 7 digit displays, I'll buy them.

#258 3 years ago

Anybody in Northern CA and Central Valley having desoldering issues let me know. I have the hakko and can pull components for the wary

#259 3 years ago
Quoted from Slim64:

If you have some dead 7 digit displays, I'll buy them.

Nothing but 6s, sorry. Maybe I can trade you a couple for a desoldering tutorial.

#260 3 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

Sucks that it requires so much component replacement on the boards, really. I'm going to have to work on my desoldering skills.

Yeah, again soldering resistors in parallel on the back of the board limits what you actually *HAVE* to fully remove to just 7x transistors. That said, I do get that some people would prefer to fully remove and replace the components.. especially if they have the right tools & experience for that.

What people should probably do is take a junkier display board and use it as a practice board to see how they do with desoldering components from the board. You don't even need to buy a conversion kit, just try messing around with a display board and see how you do desoldering or soldering in resistors in parallel with other resistors. Plan on wasting a board to get a feel for it & decide if a conversion kit is right for you or what method you would use if you did buy a conversion kit. No harm done if it doesn't work out, the display wasn't doing much good anyway & there's no shortage of bad display boards out there

I'll probably end up doing a full display kit at some point that can hopefully compliment these RETROFIT displays (ie. mix & match and they'll look the same). Then the people with only a few old boards to convert could save a bit of money but still make a full set without having to track down bad displays. Or people just wanting full kits have that option.

#261 3 years ago

Here you go. This is a 6-digit display (26 resistors). 7-digit will have 28-30 resistors depending if it's a Bally with comma circuitry or not. Ignore the jumper wire on this one, obviously that has ways of looking cleaner as in a previous picture I posted.

resistors_parallel_(resized).jpg

What I found works is using ammo pack style resistors (tape and reel). Keep them in the tape, snip one side of them leaving 1/8th to 3/16th of an inch lead length. Then they're all handy to point-solder one side of the resistor into place. Just add a bit of solder to pad of one side of each resistor you're doing, then hold the resistors (still on the tape) in one hand & solder the short lead of each resistor to the pads you had added solder to. After soldering each one, pull down on the tape and it'll release the resistor. What you'll end up with is one side of like 6x or 7x resistors of that value soldered on the board with a long lead hanging down. Then just press the long lead into the opposite pad (directly in-line with the pad that was soldered), snip the lead over-top of the pad & solder. You can do those steps for all 6-7x resistors of a value at once. Makes it quicker not dealing with individual resistors and finding a way to be more efficient getting them soldered in. You then just have the 7x segment driver transistors to fully desolder & replace.

Here's the topside of the board -- really no different from stock, but a few resistors and CR1/VR1 diode cut off. J1 PIN #1 pulled.
resistors_parallel_topside_(resized).jpg

I'm not saying soldering in parallel is for everyone.. or even that the conversion kits are for everyone, but I think the end result either way doesn't look too bad. Just as I said, you probably want to practice desoldering on a junkier board if you *plan* to replace all the components, jut to see how it goes and/or perfect technique.

#262 3 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

Nothing but 6s, sorry. Maybe I can trade you a couple for a desoldering tutorial.

Speaking of which, I think it's a good idea to be linking some of those kind of tutorials here (and in a full-blown guide for the conversions).

I found this earlier today:
http://www.pinitech.com/docs/excellentsoldering.pdf

It's more on soldering technique than desoldering, but shows good and bad examples -- and what to do if you pull pads. I'm actually thinking it'd be good to include a link to that for any type of kit I sell

#263 3 years ago

For the Xenon fans..

7-digit tests with decimal enabled. BLUE on top, WHITE with blue filter on bottom. Had to disassemble one of my early prototypes and rebuild it just to get another 7-digit display lol.

#264 3 years ago

Is there a shortage of 7-digit display boards for donors just due to less games using those?

Here's a thought. If these display conversions go over well with everyone, I could do a special run of the 7-digit boards that would allow you to convert Bally 6-digit displays into a 7-digit display. The catch is a few modifications would also be needed. Bally wired J1 PIN 10,11,12 together on 6-digit displays. So BLANKING @ PIN #10 connects to PIN #12 where the 7-digit boards get the 7th digit signal. This is why when you plug a 6-digit display into a 7-digit machine, it makes all the other displays go haywire -- it screws with the blanking signal to all the displays.

I'd have to see what could be done to minimize modifications. I'm thinking cut the trace between J1 PIN #11 and PIN #12 on the displays. Then run a wire from PIN #12 to one or two unused plasma footprint pads. The special run of the 7-digit boards would then include some extra footprints for the 7th digit circuitry and pick up the 7th digit from the [previously unused] plasma pad. No other modifications needed.. the rest of what it'd take to run the 7th digit would be located on the display panel.

Just a thought on a way to get around the shortage of 7-digit donor boards.

Not sure I can do anything about the decimal (if that matters to anyone) since that's created off the 4543 outputs. Technically it's feasible, just more wires and some extra components, but not sure that one's really worthwhile.

#265 3 years ago

I know it defeats your original goal to reuse the failed display board but I think it would be much cleaner to just make a 7 digit driver board to go with your display boards.

As I stated to you off line, that is what I intend to do.

The issue is it has to work in both Bally and Stern 7 digit games (as I recall, the J1 Pinout is different). Of course, I would also look into making it universal thereby supporting both brands of 7 digit games as well as the 6 digit layout. Then, one driver gets married to the desired 6 or 7 digit display board.

#266 3 years ago

isn't that what XPin's 7volution does?

#267 3 years ago
Quoted from CactusJack:

I know it defeats your original goal to reuse the failed display board but I think it would be much cleaner to just make a 7 digit driver board to go with your display boards.
As I stated to you off line, that is what I intend to do.
The issue is it has to work in both Bally and Stern 7 digit games (as I recall, the J1 Pinout is different). Of course, I would also look into making it universal thereby supporting both brands of 7 digit games as well as the 6 digit layout. Then, one driver gets married to the desired 6 or 7 digit display board.

Yeah that's likely the direction I'll head. Already seeing that enough people are coming up short on 7-digit boards, etc. It's going to make sense to offer a full kit option as well. If the designs can compliment each other some so you could mix-and-match conversion displays & full display kits, that could be interesting.

I like the conversion kits in being able to hit a lower price point than I could hit with a full kit. But they've been a *HECK* of a roller coaster to figure out. It would have been far easier to never have taken on that challenge -- but I know a lot of people including myself had wondered if there was some possible way to do a conversion on the old boards without it looking really hacked. The end result is pretty cool and stream-lined but getting to that point =

I'll be happy to offer both options. The full kit option will be a breeze in comparison lol.

#268 3 years ago

There is someone else with a 2-board LED design:

ebay.com link
http://www.wolffpactech.com/

And someone else with a single-board design (6-digit): ebay.com link » One Piece 6 Digit Bally Stern Pinball Led Display Replacement Orange Color

pasted_image (resized).png

#269 3 years ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:

There is someone else with a 2-board LED design:
ebay.com link
http://www.wolffpactech.com/
And someone else with a single-board design (6-digit): ebay.com link » One Piece 6 Digit Bally Stern Pinball Led Display Replacement Orange Color

Yes, I confirm that there are now tons of full led displays available

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/-interest-check-led-display-for-ballystern#post-3067895

ebay.com link

And as I said previously the price difference is really tiny but I respect the green aspect of Wayne's project.

#270 3 years ago
Quoted from gianfri:

And as I said previously the price difference is really tiny but I respect the green aspect of Wayne's project.

As I said earlier, I really like the idea of being able to reuse the PCBs, especially since there are so many with bad glass kicking around. I just wasn't sure if it would be worthwhile to pair it with a custom/new PCB since there already are drop-in display replacements available.

I do like the idea of those single-PCB displays, though. They look pretty slick.

#271 3 years ago
Quoted from gianfri:

Yes, I confirm that there are now tons of full led displays available
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/-interest-check-led-display-for-ballystern#post-3067895
ebay.com link
And as I said previously the price difference is really tiny but I respect the green aspect of Wayne's project.
» YouTube video

I don't see $50-60 saved buying a conversion kit set over a full-blown kit set as really tiny.. that's like 35% less. I wish I felt like $50 wasn't much money lol.

#272 3 years ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:

As I said earlier, I really like the idea of being able to reuse the PCBs, especially since there are so many with bad class kicking around. I just wasn't sure if it would be worthwhile to pair it with a custom/new PCB since there already are drop-in display replacements available.
I do like the idea of those single-PCB displays, though. They look pretty slick.

A few things to consider here: First off I know Wayne's idea was to do something with a bunch of old dead displays he & other people have sitting around and that is great. We are all hoarders when it comes to dead stuff from machines and this will let something that is just trash otherwise be used again.

Second - most of us that love these classic old Bally & Stern machines have several around so even a $4 or $5 savings per display times 5 displays in a machine times 5 or 6 machines amounts to a fair amount of savings.

Third - as I understand things - Wayne's displays will use a good bit less power than most others on the market and will also be available with a bunch of color choices. Personally I love the blue but it is nice to have lots of choices.

And lastly - it is nice to see something close to original back in a machine instead of different mounting system (or what ever). I say the more people doing this stuff the better. It will keep cost down because of competition and also offer choices. Keep up the good work!

#273 3 years ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:

As I said earlier, I really like the idea of being able to reuse the PCBs, especially since there are so many with bad class kicking around. I just wasn't sure if it would be worthwhile to pair it with a custom/new PCB since there already are drop-in display replacements available.
I do like the idea of those single-PCB displays, though. They look pretty slick.

Everyone's got different motivations. Mine go back to having wanted to create my own full displays since this project in 2011. Most people aren't going to be aware of the hundreds of hours spent "behind the scenes" by anyone creating things or what the driving motivations are. With these displays, it's not about competing with anyone or what's happened since 2011 as far as many other options being available. It's completing a goal that I've had for at least 5 years now, probably longer. Having something to show for literally hundreds of hours of research, development, time spent sourcing materials, contacting suppliers over the years. Putting something I feel is a solid product out there for others to enjoy.

And by golly, if I say something is efficient it's going to be efficient. I'll show people how to test the efficiency. You'll learn some things just by buying a kit. I'll have a table with mA usage for a single display and a mA usage for a full set.. and how that changes with different value resistors on the segments. There will be a section on bench testing the display.. what to connect to have it light up an "8" and then how to measure current draw if you have a meter, so you can see that it's measuring as expected and that it actually IS efficient. I dunno, I think that's kind of cool.. teaching people, demystifying things. The conversion kits aren't for everyone, but I'm sure some people will appreciate learning a little something in the process. For people that want a full kit or something totally plug-and-play, yeah I'll probably get around to that stuff too.

#274 3 years ago
Quoted from too-many-pins:

Second - most of us that love these classic old Bally & Stern machines have several around so even a $4 or $5 savings per display times 5 displays in a machine times 5 or 6 machines amounts to a fair amount of savings.

Just quickly say that I don't know how much you evaluate your spare time, but if I save 30min per display with a new one which uses the same mounting style than the classic ones and minimum 2 hours per set it could still justify the 20-30$ difference if you don't have all this spare time. I'm paid 45$ per working hour (and have so many pinball machines to restore yet) so it's still winning spending more to spend less time on removing and soldering transistors.
IMHO

Quoted from acebathound:

Most people aren't going to be aware of the hundreds of hours spent "behind the scenes" by anyone creating things or what the driving motivations are. With these displays, it's not about competing with anyone or what's happened since 2011 as far as many other options being available. It's completing a goal that I've had for at least 5 years now, probably longer. Having something to show for literally hundreds of hours of research, development, time spent sourcing materials, contacting suppliers over the years. Putting something I feel is a solid product out there for others to enjoy.

You have all my respect for this because I fully understand you, sometimes it's just hours and hours to fix only the aspect, dimensions and little details that people do not see but which can make the final product very actractive and nice.

Every time you write I can see your motivation and your research in details.

I hope you'll finally have a success story on that more than mine on Zaccaria since I clearly see the difference between people going for the full display compared to the number of modification kits I have sold

Just to confirm what ForceFlow said, I can still like the new displays with same style but when I see such displays with that kind of innovative cheap design then I clearly say no, because you're just modifying the all head pinball structure.
PS those displays use a cheap led digit which doesn't even respect the beckmann width.

#275 3 years ago
Quoted from gianfri:

Just quickly say that I don't know how much you evaluate your spare time

I think this isn't so much about time but setting something up for the DIY kinda owner that enjoys taking the time to say "I did that" as compared to plug n'play. I appreciate all that you're doing as I believe you are paving a new road and we look forward to traveling it.
Mike

#276 3 years ago

Years ago (when I was a kid) Heathkit offered stereo amps & tuners for sale as kit or pre built. They too a ton of time to build and there was only 10% difference in price between the price of the kit and the price of pre built (about $10 at that time). But the kit form still outsold the pre built. Some people just like doing it themselves instead of buying something that is done already.

The "average guy" that likes to buy machines plug & play is not likely to be the guy interested in these. These will appeal to the guy that spends 50 hours to 100 hours bring a "junk" machine back from the dead. Those guys (me included) don't mind spending some time to save a little money and also enjoy the satisfaction of bringing something to life.

Personally I can't wait to make my old "junk" displays into something usable again. My plan is to buy as many cheap junk displays as I can find over the next few months and then once the final version of this kit is released buy a bunch of kits - make nice new displays for my machines - then sell my old working displays to get my money back. Doing things that way I'll basically have new LED displays in all my Bally machines for free. Working Bally displays seem to bring around $30 to $40 each pretty constantly. These kits look like they should cost around $20 per display and junk displays typically sell for about $5 each. So when I am done I could have LED's in my dozen or so Bally machines for free and might even have some cash left over. Pretty neat trade off for using some time I would likely just be wasting otherwise!

#277 3 years ago

I, too, have to put a value on my time. I'm in my 50's now and have 20+ games I want to restore and yet I continually buy dead games and dead boards because I like to bring them back to life. That's half the fun.

But I'm in it for the white displays. I've been wanting those for a long time and up until now the 7volution was the only display in white, and no 6 digits in white. There may be other white displays now, but for the last couple of years that was it.

#278 3 years ago
Quoted from too-many-pins:

The "average guy" that likes to buy machines plug & play is not likely to be the guy interested in these. These will appeal to the guy that spends 50 hours to 100 hours bring a "junk" machine back from the dead. Those guys (me included) don't mind spending some time to save a little money and also enjoy the satisfaction of bringing something to life.
Personally I can't wait to make my old "junk" displays into something usable again.

That's just enough to motivate Wayne to go on and finish this product, I can only wish Zaccaria fans would love to do the same but it looks like we do not have enough time to do everything therefore sometimes we sacrifice something.

Something is sure, I would not ask someone to bring my old pinballs to life otherwise I would loose the fun of doing it

#279 3 years ago

Some kits are shipping out to beta testers today. If I wrote "digit drivers" on the anti-static bag with 35-40x mosfets in it, that's a mistake. I'm pretty sure I did this with a few orders. Those are segment drivers. Hopefully I don't miss anything in the kits, but if you notice something is missing when you get your kit let me know. Some people got extra mosfets with 6-digit kits. My bad

I am working on some instructions & included a link to those, but they're work-in-progress so if you get your kit in the next few days.. just know that the instructions are still being updated. I hadn't originally planned to have much for instructions, but I don't like leaving people completely in the dark.. so I attempted to put something together there.

Some more packages should be going out tomorrow.

#280 3 years ago

I was traveling and so completely lost track of this thread until just now and am a bit fracked at myself for having forgot to get on that damn beta list as I have a Stern needing two replacements and the perfect test vehicle! If you need any more beta testers, let me know.

#281 3 years ago
Quoted from shimoda:

I was traveling and so completely lost track of this thread until just now and am a bit fracked at myself for having forgot to get on that damn beta list as I have a Stern needing two replacements and the perfect test vehicle! If you need any more beta testers, let me know.

Out of materials right now. I was considering doing another PCB order but I may hold off until after the beta test & after I've had a chance to assess things myself. I've been a solid 3-4 weeks again with pulling the rest of the project together, packing up kits, working on some instructions, shipping out beta test kit orders this week. A bit exhausted to tell the truth and I'm planning on taking a bit of a break while the beta testing is going on. I'll be available to answer emails/PMs and will check this thread some, but otherwise will probably be laying low for a bit and not getting into any new projects.

If the beta test shows more demand for these, I have a lot of things to streamline to make it work. Material cost is quite high (40-50% of the price), packaging kits has been very time intensive. I didn't account for some materials like the mosfets that were later added, ziplock bags, etc. Shipping was underestimated for some packages because they all had to go Priority Mail due to weight & costs vary widely depending on what area of the US you ship to. Because of the sheer amount of materials per display set bulk orders of materials go very quick, but they're also bulky when they come in.

At this point I'm just happy-enough to get some kits out there for beta testing to see what people think & see if there's demand. From there, it's just going to depend on feedback, assessing all of the issues I've hit, looking at what could be streamlined more & then deciding whether there's some way to make it all work out in volume and still be profitable.

#282 3 years ago
Quoted from acebathound:

Out of materials right now. I was considering doing another PCB order but I may hold off until after the beta test & after I've had a chance to assess things myself. I've been a solid 3-4 weeks again with pulling the rest of the project together, packing up kits, working on some instructions, shipping out beta test kit orders this week. A bit exhausted to tell the truth and I'm planning on taking a bit of a break while the beta testing is going on. I'll be available to answer emails/PMs and will check this thread some, but otherwise will probably be laying low for a bit and not getting into any new projects.
If the beta test shows more demand for these, I have a lot of things to streamline to make it work. Material cost is quite high (40-50% of the price), packaging kits has been very time intensive. I didn't account for some materials like the mosfets that were later added, ziplock bags, etc. Shipping was underestimated for some packages because they all had to go Priority Mail due to weight & costs vary widely depending on what area of the US you ship to. Because of the sheer amount of materials per display set bulk orders of materials go very quick, but they're also bulky when they come in.
At this point I'm just happy-enough to get some kits out there for beta testing to see what people think & see if there's demand. From there, it's just going to depend on feedback, assessing all of the issues I've hit, looking at what could be streamlined more & then deciding whether there's some way to make it all work out in volume and still be profitable.

Thanks for the info, and crap...

I'd be happy with the digit units and the pcbs if you get those alone.

#283 3 years ago

First effort.

2016-08-27 18.26.44 (resized).jpg

#284 3 years ago
Quoted from johninc:

First effort.

It's ALIIIIIIVE!!!!

Solid first effort! Looks awesome already!

#285 3 years ago

Got my kits, I'll try and throw one together tomorrow!

#286 3 years ago

First seven-digit done, now I just need three more donors. Edit: Digits are all the same brightness, just bad photography.

2016-08-28 16.46.18 (resized).jpg

#287 3 years ago

In the middle of converting a Bally 7 digit to LED

Here's is the donor board with the components removed.
IMAG1810 (resized).jpg

Repopulated
I need to work on getting the components to stay flat. NOTE: I moved the jumper to the bottom of the board for clearance.
IMAG1812 (resized).jpg

LED BoardIMAG1817 (resized).jpg
I used recycled leads instead of the included header pins. I missed that instruction the first time.

Final ResultsIMAG1816 (resized).jpg

Note exposure reduced for clarity. I chose the default resistors for brightness

#288 3 years ago
Quoted from johninc:

First seven-digit done, now I just need three more donors. Edit: Digits are all the same brightness, just bad photography.

Yeah, Xenon's a tough machine to take a picture of because of the first layer glass having the smokey design on it. Seems kind of odd they didn't go cover the whole display(s) with that.

#289 3 years ago

Can you give extended instructions on enabling the commas. I'm not understanding the ones in the guide

#290 3 years ago
Quoted from Cheddar:

Can you give extended instructions on enabling the commas. I'm not understanding the ones in the guide

Looks like you already have the "COM" signal wired between the LED digit panel & plasma footprint.

If you then bridge the smd pads on the back of the digit panel (see picture below) the decimal should then light.

decimal.jpg

#291 3 years ago
Quoted from Cheddar:

I need to work on getting the components to stay flat.

For the resistors you might find one of those cheap lead formers handy. I've gotten pretty good at sizing resistor bends on my fingertip.. and swiping down with the opposing hand's index finger & thumb to bend the leads. I usually find a good place on my finger to set the resistor and get a consistent bend.

For the mosfets, I first bend the middle lead back at a 90 degree angle to the bottom of the mosfet body. Then the two outer legs get bent forward at a 90 degree angle to the bottom of the mosfet. Then put your 90 degree bend on the front legs maybe 1/4" from the mosfet body. Leave the middle lead as it is.. and put the middle lead in the footprint hole first.. push it in most of the way, then fit the 2 front leads in their footprint hole. I'll try to document that better at some point. A bit hard to explain without a few pictures

#292 3 years ago
Quoted from acebathound:

For the resistors you might find one of those cheap lead formers handy. I've gotten pretty good at sizing resistor bends on my fingertip.. and swiping down with the opposing hand's index finger & thumb to bend the leads. I usually find a good place on my finger to set the resistor and get a consistent bend.
For the mosfets, I first bend the middle lead back at a 90 degree angle to the bottom of the mosfet body. Then the two outer legs get bent forward at a 90 degree angle to the bottom of the mosfet. Then put your 90 degree bend on the front legs maybe 1/4" from the mosfet body. Leave the middle lead as it is.. and put the middle lead in the footprint hole first.. push it in most of the way, then fit the 2 front leads in their footprint hole. I'll try to document that better at some point. A bit hard to explain without a few pictures

No this makes sense although I would just do the bend in the middle leg. I'll try this on the next board

#293 3 years ago
Quoted from acebathound:

Looks like you already have the "COM" signal wired between the LED digit panel & plasma footprint.
If you then bridge the smd pads on the back of the digit panel (see picture below) the decimal should then light.

Thanks!

#294 3 years ago

If you're lucky you have access to one of these.

http://www.jensentools.com/eraser-lead-bender/g/835

#296 3 years ago

Awesome work everyone!!!!!!

#297 3 years ago

Done!

2016-08-31 14.14.13 (resized).jpg

#298 3 years ago

Can you give us an average time estimate? Did you do the full component removal?

#299 3 years ago

I'm working on 6digit displays but it's only taking me about 10min a display to disassemble. That's using a hakko desoldering station. and another 10-15min to reassemble.

#300 3 years ago
Quoted from Drewscruis:

I'm working on 6digit displays but it's only taking me about 10min a display to disassemble. That's using a hakko desoldering station. and another 10-15min to reassemble.

That's awesome to hear!

I think this was the scenario for one of the few displays I fully removed components on:
15min to desolder components with Hakko
10-15min to repopulate & solder jumper wire
3 minutes to solder digits to new PCB
5-10min to mount the digit panel

How have you all been dealing with those bent over resistor leads on some boards? Any tips there?

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