Guns N' Roses
Data East, 1994
Jurassic Park
Data East, 1993
Last Action Hero
Data East, 1993
Royal Rumble (WWF)
Data East, 1994
Tales from the Crypt
Data East, 1993
The Who's Tommy Pinball Wizard
Data East, 1994Quoted from PinballManiac40:Switches are available. You need to add a diode.
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-ball-detect-blade-with-roller-sub-microswitch.html
Oh I have these trough switches, but don't have, specifically, switch #7. The one that tells the game there's a ball that needs to kick into the shooter lane. That's the switch that seems to be sold out or discontinued. Thanks for looking out though!
Quoted from vgatchaman:but don't have, specifically, switch #7. The one that tells the game there's a ball that needs to kick into the shooter lane.
That one is available as well, because I bought one for my project JP game. Takes a bit of detective work as it is not called out in the JP manual. But you can take the 500-5683-00 part number of the whole trough assembly and do an internet search and come up with the switch from the breakdown of the assembly from Marco.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/180-5118-00
Then you can do an internet search on the #180-5118-00 switch and see who all has it in stock.
https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=180-5118-00
Quoted from PinballManiac40:That one is available as well, because I bought one for my project JP game. Takes a bit of detective work as it is not called out in the JP manual. But you can take the 500-5683-00 part number of the whole trough assembly and do an internet search and come up with the switch from the breakdown of the assembly from Marco.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/180-5118-00
Then you can do an internet search on the #180-5118-00 switch and see who all has it in stock.
https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=180-5118-00
[quoted image]
Thanks, buddy! You're always super helpful! I did eventually find the part number, but since it showed up as discontinued on marco and out of stock at pinball life, I just gave up on it. I'll try the other shops that popped up with that switch. Thanks again!!
Quoted from Crispy77:Davi any updates on another run? I would love one.
I also would like to get in on another run Davi !
Please put me down for one if they are made again. (TFTC). Thanks
Davi and this product are top notch. I purchased in the first round and it works great in my TftC. Considering buying another as backup or for future DE game.
Quoted from Davi:Thanks. Only 2 spots left in this batch.
Add me for the last two spots please.
If anyone in australia/nz is after a couple of these and aren't already on the preorder list for the next run I have two spare : https://www.aussiearcade.com/topic/101203-various-pinball-parts-playfieldselectronicsplasticsknockers/
Can somebody PM me the install manual? Received my board and I reached out Davi, but no response. Thanks
Quoted from Davi:Thanks! I shared the new version with new customers via PM.
Is the new manual any different from the one a year ago?
MM
Quoted from Pinballer73:I've seen some posts indicating people are buying these for DE Star Wars, although that game isn't listed as being compatible in Davi 1st post in this thread. Is this board a drop in replacement for DE Star Wars or not?
Starwars DE has an older version of ball trough, not the 6-pack assembly.
Not compatible.
Quoted from Davi:Starwars DE has an older version of ball trough, not the 6-pack assembly.
Not compatible.
Thanks for the clarification.
Quoted from LampyDave:I wonder how I missed this for so long...
Newly verified to post: Would be delighted if Davi you still have one of these left (with loom if available) for my TFTC in the UK?
Many thanks for making them originally and for continuing to make them for the rest of us
Best, Dave
Hi Dave, yes I have it with harness. PM sent.
Got my board in and installed it. It is a very neat piece of kit, when it works. So far it is proving to be unreliable.
The optos were not soldered very well. I kept intermittently losing track of balls. Visual inspection showed some pads had 0 solder on the front side leading to traces.
Currently I discovered that while a plastic backing kit is included, it relies on using two of the original metal screws for the microswitches. What I found is that after having installed/removed the board several times one of the screws scraped part of the masking away. There is a ground plane or a trace underneath too close to the screw head and now my board works perfectly fine, until that screw is installed and then it likes to emit a loud buzzing. Some of the optos will show both red and green when a ball is not over them and the game does not see any of the balls.
Trying to decide on what fix to go with. Electrical tape is easiest, but it looks like a hack on a board I just spent good money on.
Quoted from dung:Got my board in and installed it. It is a very neat piece of kit, when it works. So far it is proving to be unreliable.
The optos were not soldered very well. I kept intermittently losing track of balls. Visual inspection showed some pads had 0 solder on the front side leading to traces.
Currently I discovered that while a plastic backing kit is included, it relies on using two of the original metal screws for the microswitches. What I found is that after having installed/removed the board several times one of the screws scraped part of the masking away. There is a ground plane or a trace underneath too close to the screw head and now my board works perfectly fine, until that screw is installed and then it likes to emit a loud buzzing. Some of the optos will show both red and green when a ball is not over them and the game does not see any of the balls.
Trying to decide on what fix to go with. Electrical tape is easiest, but it looks like a hack on a board I just spent good money on.
I would contact the creator first, I am sure he will help!
For the optos, no need 100% hole filling for proper operation - the board is double sided with plated trough holes, soldered from bottom side.
The screw head cannot create short, unless the board is damaged, and the solder mask is removed, therefore a bare copper is visible.
In case the detection is unreliable, the root cause is almost always shiny metal surface at the top of ball trough.
Please send pictures via PM, I will check what is the situation.
Quoted from Davi:I would contact the creator first, I am sure he will help!
For the optos, no need 100% hole filling for proper operation - the board is double sided with plated trough holes, soldered from bottom side.
The screw head cannot create short, unless the board is damaged, and the solder mask is removed, therefore a bare copper is visible.
In case the detection is unreliable, the root cause is almost always shiny metal surface at the top of ball trough.
Please send pictures via PM, I will check what is the situation.
I already fixed it. If I had questions I would have sent a message, but the problems were pretty obvious.
Optos would work intermittently when I first installed it. Gently pressing on them when installed would cause them to function. This was very much a lack of solder and adding some fixed them. Visually there was very little solder on some of the leads.
The board did get damaged. There are two tiny screws holding that board on and installing/uninstalling a half dozen times for fitment and due to opto issues caused the screw to wear the masking off around the screw holes. Not a lot, but it doesn't take much. It is also pretty common on pinball pcb's that use screw mountings to wear the masking off. The difference is that in the backbox they are usually attaching to the ground plane by design. Under the pf they usually have plastic mounts that the screw is going through.
I opted for a small dab of super glued around the screw hole so that the screw doesn't make contact.
Quoted from dung:I already fixed it. If I had questions I would have sent a message, but the problems were pretty obvious.
Optos would work intermittently when I first installed it. Gently pressing on them when installed would cause them to function. This was very much a lack of solder and adding some fixed them. Visually there was very little solder on some of the leads.
The board did get damaged. There are two tiny screws holding that board on and installing/uninstalling a half dozen times for fitment and due to opto issues caused the screw to wear the masking off around the screw holes. Not a lot, but it doesn't take much. It is also pretty common on pinball pcb's that use screw mountings to wear the masking off. The difference is that in the backbox they are usually attaching to the ground plane by design. Under the pf they usually have plastic mounts that the screw is going through.
I opted for a small dab of super glued around the screw hole so that the screw doesn't make contact.
It's good to hear that the board works.
The ground is connected to the top layer (as common layer) normally the screw can't reach other track. It would be good if you can share picture about the damage, I would improve the design if required.
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