https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1104-medisinyl-mods/01413-interactive-rob-zombie-mausoleum-mod-living-dead-girl-

Video:

[[No permanent modification]]

This mod replaces the factory Living Dead Girl panel with an enclosed Mausoleum for an infinity mirror lightshow that pops.

It installs with the factory bolts and supplied clips (they hold tight and install with no hassle). The lighting is triggered off of the factory lights via a photoresistor and transistor in the circuit, installed with two of the factory screws over the original light board (this is a custom 3d print that fits perfectly flush over the board). Wiring is attached to the 12V at the bottom of the cab and easily fed up alongside the factory wiring for the LDG (wiring is separated with a quick release plug). The excess wiring and lightboard assembly hide up in a reservoir in the Mod out of view.

Extra clips and an extra lightboard backing will be included just in case, but I haven't had any failures in testing.

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I can look into testing this route after the holiday if the interest is there (it's possible to do). Could be neat, though I doubt it would be as pronounced as the recommended options.

As I got one of the first few Apron mods, it seems my version is still flimsy. A 3d printed part may not be the answer either. I can always take a look when I have a chance to see if there is a simple solution if someone doesn't come up with something beforehand.

Otherwise, this has only come up for me once, but who knows if it will arise again just before finally (if ever) getting near Hellbound :p

EDIT: I updated the original post with a photo of the mentioned clips that hold the factory bolts in place (They pop over the bolt snug and lock it in place).

EDIT #2: I took a look at the machine with the ball stop in mind and believe I see a way it could be done and mounted securely (with no permanent modification), so I may very well get to it after the holiday, but for now my resources are needed 100% toward getting current orders out this week.

Stone painting marathon these past couple days All 5 orders taken before the cut-off are planned to ship out by 2pm Saturday (I believe the Pinside shop will open up for orders again on the 22nd and start shipping a few days after the holiday [I'll be getting more parts together ahead of that time]). I added some "blood" mess on the more hidden Captain Spaulding side to these as well as darker green "algae" than the protoype version. .

These will soon get the frosted LED arches, mirrors, circuit wiring, etc.

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Those are parts of Dracula orders (they cover the exposed switches in the game). Just thought it looked cool seeing the tombstones/skulls with the mausoleums once I finally had everything painted and cleared

Took a shot before paint as there was so much to do at once...paint makes a huge difference

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I had given some answer to that here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/advice-on-3d-printingfabrication#post-4103437

My main printer right now is a modified CR-10 (after a new print bed set-up it's awesome), but I have a monoprice Select V2 as well (could be a fire hazard without internal modification). Recently I've had them both running nearly 24/7. 3D prints can take a long time (and often fail without proper settings, bed leveling, etc.). Just the main section for the RZ mod is about 18 hours, +2-3 hours each on the roof and archway, +clips, lightboard box, etc.

This week has led me to question the purchase of a 3rd printer to keep up, and I'd be happy getting another CR-10 if that were the case (modified with a mirror bed and lightly scuffed PEI plastic--parts stick dead flat after that). Some of my mods have also been too large to fit on my smaller printer (namely the LED Drac mod--haven't attempted the RZ frame on the smaller printer).

For creating designs, I use some mix of Blender, Meshmixer, and Tinkercad. Cura for slicing (15.04.6).

As I pull an all nighter to get these out on time, it seems I'm finding ways to keep myself entertained . As I was taking a progress shot, I realized what shirt I happened to be wearing today and proceeded to align them just so Photoresistor boxes, wiring, etc. to go.

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I appreciate the interest, and thanks to hAbO/Mike for getting an answer to you sooner . I'm currently away, but Pinside orders re-open tomorrow and the next run will ship the first week of January (most likely earlier in the week). That run is nearly full now (1-2 slots left), but I'd expect to get the 3rd run out within a week or so after the 2nd ships. As the print on these alone is ~24 hours, it takes some days to even get a run to the paint stage (I may get a 3rd printer on my return to help speed that stage up depending on orders--I only have 1 currently that can handle large parts).

About 24 hours for all of the parts for one (main frame, roof, frosted/clear archway, lightboard cover, clips, and lightboard backing...then of course the mirror cutting, wiring, etc. on top). The main body alone consumes a 4th of a large spool, so yeah, it's "meaty"

Pinball browser has been updated to work with RZ. I imagine someone will do it eventually. A lot of the callouts in the machine are pretty great as is, but plenty could be swapped with something more interesting. Perhaps hAbO can send his ripped audio to one of us if he doesn't do his own.

1 spot left on the next run of 5 (shipping the first week of Jan.). I may very well be asleep while it sells, but will be starting run 3 soon after in case the cut is missed.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1104-medisinyl-mods/01413-interactive-rob-zombie-mausoleum-mod-living-dead-girl-

Just a note that Run 2 did sell out and current orders will be pre-orders for batch #3. Thanks again to everyone that has ordered so far. It's rewarding for me to contribute to the hobby in this way and see my mods show up in machines around the world

Finally back home. I have parts for 4 of these so far (brought my machines over the holiday) and will get to the paint stage in a couple days once the rest is ready, then mirrors, lightning, circuits, wiring, lightboard box, etc. Aiming for a January 2nd ship date on this run #2. I've already made a re-purchase on the infinity mirror materials and such, so run #3 will be ready to go soon after once more printed parts are built (still 2-3 spots available for run #3 if there's interest). Would aim to ship run #3 by Jan. 10 if not sooner. Couple other requested mods for RZ should be in the works this coming month as time allows (neither being nearly as involved as this one )

Awesome I hope it breathes some new life into the game once it arrives

Adding the current instructions here as a Pinsider asked about them While there are a few steps, it's really not a hard install, and can be done quickly.

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1 spot left for run #3 (shipping around Jan. 10)

EDIT: run 3 is sold out.

Thank you! With that, run 3 is sold out. Any new orders will be pre-orders for run #4 (tentatively shipping by Jan.18).

I agree it would be very cool if you could get 100% of the effect from the height of the average adult, but there are multiple reflections of it visible from the player angle (at 5'9" for me at least), so it does still make quite a difference being infinite mirror rather than if I designed it as just a smoked panel and no mirror. Though I also couldn't really imagine the odd geometry of angling the mirrors high enough to get the full effect from adult height--something would seem off there too perhaps, so amongst the restrictions I was working with, I was pretty happy once I got it to where it is, but again, I totally agree with what you're seeing. My main goal was to create a cool looking housing to obscure the LDG from all angles, then bring her to life properly when active. The infinity mirror was really just icing on the cake and not in mind when the idea was first conceived.

While I expect there should be some play in there when the playfield is down, I would just double check when raising/lowering that the roof clears the bump that the cut-out portion is there for (if the angle is changed...it's certainly a tight design around the factory bits as is). There's a very small fraction of added horizontal width on the bolt holes that could perhaps allow for a slight angle change without hurting anything (perhaps even placing one of the extra clips in front of the bracket on one of them? [again, double checking that nothing binds at the roof when lowering the playfield])

For those in Run #2, yours is somewhere here Shipping these out today (everyone that ordered from this run will be updated with tracking by later tonight). Thanks again to all that have ordered thus far [2-3 pre-order spots left for Run #4--to ship by the 18th - EDIT: Now 1 or 2 spots left]

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Now only 1 spot left for Run #4 (shipping by Jan. 18). Pre-orders for run #5 will open once that spot is sold (to ship by Jan. 26.).

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Thank you! I can't wait to see more of these in other machines

Run #2 has officially shipped out and everyone in that group should have received tracking numbers either via PM or through the order page. Run #3 will ship by Jan. 10. Still the one spot available for run #4. Thanks yet again to everyone that has purchased this mod or left some positive feedback

If anyone ever takes a RZ to a show with this mod, I'd love to know what response it gets

Run #4 is now SOLD OUT (to ship on Jan. 18). New orders will be pre-orders for Run #5 (to ship Jan. 26).

Awesome! Thank you. I was just wondering if some of run 2 would be received/installed today, and I was hoping this would be the reaction that buyers experience

They can be found on eBay (McFarlane? I'm not at a computer, so it's harder to look things up at the moment [I'll find a link when I'm home]). I modded the toy to have the head angled higher, and also modded the chest to have a beating heart LED.

To mount it, I pulled the plastic underneath him, drilled holes through the feet, and used pop rivets from underneath (you can see the rivets through his shoes--I was going to paint them black, but ending up digging the way the rivets looked).

This link will show what's on eBay for this figure (some of the lower priced ones are missing parts) : ebay.com link: sch

EDIT: It seems to be killing the address with the search by replacing it will a generic link (fixing the gap in "eb ay" should work here)- https://www.eb ay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=rob+zombie+mcfarlane&_sop=15

It is the McFarlane toy though.

Getting multiple reports now of issues with the photoresistor burning out on run #2 (lights stay on solid and don't interact). I've got more components coming in on the 10th to beef up the circuit and will get a fix sorted ASAP before shipping run #3. I believe I already know the fix, and I may still be able to get the run out by the night of the 10th, but I need to be sure I avoid any further issues, so run #3 may need to ship out on the 11th (no change to Run #4).

I have yet to hear of this issue with run #1 (nor have I had any issue with mine), but should one arise, a fix will either be sent, or returns for repairs are always an option.

Sorry if there is any delay.

Either it can be sent back if desired (for repair), or I can mail the new version of lightbox circuit with no-solder crimp connectors (would just need to snip/strip the current wires and use a crimp tool to affix).

Will do. Instructions will be simple to attach the better protected circuit. As it's the same as I've been using, I'm surprised an issue didn't arise sooner in run #1, but I believe the fix will be a 50k-100k ohm resistor added to the transistor/LDR circuit on the lightboard box (perhaps a low ohm resistor on the power side as well).

I'll be sending a whole new lightboard box with new circuit and new plug, etc. so it will just be a simple swap for the end user to cut the two wires off that box going to the mod and attaching the new assembly.

As noted, parts will be in tomorrow and I'll get it sorted ASAP.

The LDR is incredibly sensitive to light. If there's any light bleeding in on it, it won't go completely dark. In testing, even putting my finger right over the sensor wouldn't allow for completely black, so I would perhaps suggest blocking the bottom of the reservoir off in case any GI, etc. lights are getting in.

EDIT: Just got the new parts in and will work on building and testing a new circuit (this will be available to anyone that has purchased this mod, even if theirs is working properly). Will update here tonight.

In the midst of setting up a test-rig right now (I'll be testing numerous different components to maintain the intended performance while hopefully preventing this from happening again). Going to be testing at machine strength as well (originally my bench test rig was at 12.2V and RZ is at 12.7V).

I still don't understand why this has only been reported during run #2 (I've been expecting someone form run #1 to chime in considering the failure rate with run #2). A couple in run #1 used the exact same of everything, but a few used a different brand of LED strip (including the one in my machine). I don't understand how the LED strip could have anything to do with the photoresistor going out, but I do know why the photoresistor could be going out in general, and am working on it now.

EDIT: I'll also test the circuit I decide on for 1-2 hours+ before giving it the okay.

Otherwise, Run #3 is ready to go pending these new circuits and will ship out by tomorrow.

New circuit has been in test for 40+ minutes and going strong (no indication of heat on the photoresistor). I've been swapping it back and forth with light and dark and will continue to do so. Running at 12.75V

With some more time on it, I'll pull the 100k ohm resistor I added between the LDR and transistor and hope to recreate the failed LDR (photoresistor). In which case, I would consider this fixed. EDIT: Currently running the original circuit, and while it has yet to fail, it is more sensitive to ambient light in the dark--more likely to stay lit red in non-total darkness than the "fix" that was tested. Hoping it will fail soon to confirm.

EDIT 2: I still can't reproduce a failure of my original circuit (nor get any heat off the LDR with the original circuit), but I do feel more confident in the way the "fixed" circuit is performing as I've gone back and forth with that as well. I also have a failed unit returned for repair now that may help shed some light.

Also is a shot of the design of the diffused archway if anyone is interested to see it. Perhaps other modders would like to see how I went about it. It was designed inside the shell of the main mausoleum portion to get perfect dimensions (snap-fits into place with the cut-out in the back--the back mirror otherwise holding it in place [the arch ends up flush against the mirror as there are notches on the bottom of the arch--this notch wasn't present in an earlier prototype and greatly enhanced the infinity mirror effect once flush against the mirror])

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I still can't get the original circuit design to fail, even when purposely shorting parts of the circuit (update below). Lends me to believe the units that are working properly may continue to do so without an issue (as my own unit has), but perplexes me as to what is happening to have multiple customers with failing units this run.

I'm still confident that my "fix" is a better, sturdier circuit (also fades to black quicker [less sensitive to low light] while maintaining full brightness when on) and will go forward with it if I don't get more information by then.

EDIT: I was able to get the transistor to fail by shorting the LED strip. Based on the return I have on hand, my guess now is that the new verison of LED strip (flimsy and less insulated compared to the earlier waterproof version) is still twisting itself to contact internally despite the shrink tubing--going forward this will be entirely insulated to make this impossible.

This lends itself to further confidence that units performing properly from run #1 will continue to do so.

However, this makes me less confident that I can merely send out a fix as this sort of failure requires me to take the mod apart and install a new LED strip. Customers that return the unit for repair will be credited for shipping costs.

Thank you for that I do feel awful that this has happened, but am now rather confident that I know how to prevent this from happening again (as ultimately updated in my previous post [perhaps as you were writing]). Wish I could have caught it before sending out an entire batch of these, but am glad run #3 will go out *after* discovering what I believe is the issue.

I'll be working through the night on these to make sure run #3 is on its way to customers tomorrow.

Shot of an Ice Blue version (As Pink fades to Red, Ice Blue fades to Green for a cool effect [I debated between these for my machine--perhaps the new owner will give us some pics or vid after installing ). In fact, this one is Kyle's (Mudflaps) Has been tested at 12.75V for awhile with no issues. Others will also get an extended test (run #3 is essentially complete now--I just have a return to repair and I'll get it all shipped out today is the plan).

Blue light on the camera made for some off coloring of the rest of the mod/surroundings, but it'll have to do for now.

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To better clarify, I've updated the instructions with a clear note that the pictured power box is at the back left of the cabinet under a sticker (not the larger power box in the middle).

Otherwise, to update the order progress, 2 spots are left in run #5 (to ship Jan 26).

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Thank you for the suggestions. I'll add some photos up here soon for additional reference.

Run #3 has shipped. Tracking numbers will be given out to everyone later tonight.

All of these units were tested for at least 5 minutes each at full machine voltage and through dark and light cycles. I don't see any reason for them to fail, so fingers crossed on this run.

This run is better insulated on the LED strips and while I don't believe it was necessary after testing, I added the 100k ohm resistor to the circuit on these anyway.

I have what I expect are the original LED strips I worked with on the way for future runs.

EDIT: Everyone (in run #3) should now have tracking either via PM or through the order page.

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Added over 6 years ago: EDIT: Turns out to maintain safe resistance levels (the issue that is discussed in the thread), it's best to do the exact OPPOSITE of what is pictured here. Instead face the lights away from the sensor (if you don't have the filtered version).

That is very cool! and incredibly similar (I didn't use that for reference however). Mine was designed from scratch and to the fraction of a mm on dimensions to fit in the machine (perhaps coincidentally similar dimensions on that toy).

I initially just wanted to completely house the LDG toy and give a better lightshow. I decided on a mausoleum given the theme and based mine off the image below amongst others. I went with an arch (admittedly very similar to the toy you linked) as it was necessary to be able to 3D print without supports (a boxy top would result in a failed print without support), so some design choices are forced by the way a 3D printer works (supports lend themselves to a great deal of extra time and wasted filament).

As for being infinity mirror, I've had multiple mod ideas using infinity mirrors that I don't own the games for yet, so going from mirror tint for the front panel, it was the logical next step to just add the back mirror (originally I didn't plan to make an infinity mirror). Certainly not a novel idea, and I know there is at least one other infinity mirror mod floating around Pinside, but it does produce a cool effect

Even the paint for my LDG mod is inspired by the photo below (algae streaking down, etc.)

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For peace of mind, given the recent issue with run #2, if those that received repairs or run #3 orders could confirm proper function once installed, that would be much appreciated Thank you. (if there is ANY question or uncertainty on the installation, please ask and I'll respond as soon as I see it).

In other news, I'm hoping to have some new RZ mods far enough along to reveal in a week or so.

Also working to get run #4 out tomorrow.

Awesome! Thanks for the picture Been wanting to put the mirror blades in mine since I saw them in RandomKG's machine at SFGE--they look great in RZ. Think they were generally out of stock on them at times I checked.

I appreciate the interest I'll divulge more when I'm closer to reveal, but the right side of the machine will be getting some love next A 3-piece set that could be purchased as any individual piece (while theme integrated, any would look fine on their own) or as a set (while I don't have pricing figured out yet, the whole set will certainly cost less than the LDG mod, with the smaller pieces being very reasonable). The larger piece (with LEDs) is already in the physical prototype stage, and parts have been ordered for the rest of what I have planned (hoping to have time to CAD design the rest this weekend). All parts and paint will be based on things as they are seen in the House of 1000 Corpses film (nothing that infringes IP or licensed material).

All tracking numbers will be given out later tonight. I just shipped the one international order to make it in time for customs, but will get the rest out via kiosk tonight. Just running a hair behind as I prioritized the (5) Run #2 repairs this week (also taking extra steps to avoid such issues from happening again).

Sometimes colorDMD makes me feel the same way (I still want them ) But but...this LDG mod really just enhances the machine to where I believe Spooky wanted it to be. I remember a podcast where the LDG toy was being described by Charlie (during development), and the description would lend you to assume it was going to be more like what I've done here, but as he later noted, they ran out of time/budget, etc.

Ultimately I feel RZ deserves more than the "played once at a noisy event on kiddie mode..here's my review" that makes up for most of the negativity on RZ (or on old code). I'm hoping mods like this lend to some others giving RZ another shot (perhaps this mod will pop up at a show one day, etc. and catch someone's eye).

Well, I'll go the ColorDMD route with a slightly obscure clue as to what is coming As a couple Pinsiders already know part of what is to come, no cheating! (one being the customer that requested this mod, but the larger piece [7 inches at its longest ] is an addition to compliment the theme of the mod and still under wraps for now [but the clue below could shed some light]).

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Fair enough (Kaneda?). $200 IS expensive for what it is if this were a mass produced factory item, but many weeks of careful planning, design, resources, and redesigns went into this mod before even knowing if I'd get any return (moderate success on my first few mods gave me some hope I'd at least break even). Then on top, lots of work goes into every single one of these (I've gone without sleep multiple times to get these out in a reasonable time-frame)--I can't justify making these for any less, but I do want to be able to contribute to the hobby in this way (I believe I even under-price it for what has gone and goes into making it [just the paint-job alone on these would cost a significant chunk of what I'm charging here if commissioned to the average artist]). I set my price and others are free to scoff (I understand), but for those that can value what goes into a custom designed, hand painted, niche product, I've made it available

Run #4 has now been shipped/dropped off and tracking numbers have either been sent via PM or through the order page.

Run #5 is planned to ship out on the 26th (still 2 spots available).

When I initially noticed a new post in this thread (after the clue), I thought, "crap... I made it too easy, someone already got it." There is something common to all of them in some fashion, which would become...the next clue (then it would just take some prior knowledge or google skills).

Yeah, about 24 hour print with all the parts (longer if I'm not on hand at the right moment). I finally got a 3rd printer recently to help keep up and be able to do other mods (these were locking out my ability to prototype for new mods and sell other mods I make due to the print time). Turned out cutting the plexiglass mirrors by hand is one of the bigger pains, but I have a better tool now as well. Some break, and others were slightly blemished--I rejected anything that would show any imperfection at all on the mod. Seven solder points on each of these as well and high material cost compared to my other mods. blah blah blah...

I'd like to think that there is value in the details and problem solving. At first I felt somewhat defeated when I discovered I couldn't simply tap into another light to get the interaction...eventually the photoresistor idea came to me, and I'd end up designing that lightboard box (again, to the fraction of a mm). I had to design the arch, the main mod, the roof, the lightboard box, and the clips (then long test prints and revisions to get everything perfect). Sure, I could have had customers struggle to get the nuts back on, but the devil's in the details (those didn't work the first time either). While it goes unspoken for the most part as it isn't the main attraction, I have to assume customers are impressed with how perfectly that lightboard box fits (lots of measuring and testing to produce something that's meant to be hidden ).

I appreciate that I do see mods that cost double and have nowhere near what goes into this mod...heck, people were flipping hot topic belt buckles for nearly $100 at some point if I recall correctly (MET). Hwoever, there are lots of talented modders out there, and some downright impressive. Perhaps takes another modder to know what really goes into producing some of these things.

Cards, eh? Hmm..could be a clue I'd just like to be a bit further along before revealing too much. Less time for people to imagine up what they expect it will look like (better or worse, etc.) against the real product. I have yet to see my idea fully to fruition at this point, but I have detailed plans, so I'm hoping some people will think these are a cool addition whether they lead to sales or not Looking to make a lot of progress over the next two days.

I didn't really expect anyone to get what I was going for, but the possibility was there for a film buff, etc. to catch on to.

Lemmy - Ace of Spades
Carrey - Ace Ventura
Maverick - Ace Pilot
Ace Frehley...well...

"Four Aces" is the film set of Spaulding's Gas Station, etc. 3D gas pumps (as they appear in the film) and the lighted store-front/awning is coming soon (I have a nearly finished awning that is looking great and some promising gas pump prototypes that need some last things to be made). Perhaps a peek at the store-front/awning later today

Four Aces + House of 1000 Corpses set:

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Crap...ha ha

This will get its own thread once the gas pumps are complete, and this may get some changes before production, but here's a peek at where I'm at with the store front (got what detail I could in on this to work with the scale of the machine/play angle). The light looks identical to that yellow/green lighting in the film, but I can't get my camera to show it (there's some leeway for left/right positioning, and it should fit with the "Tim's" sign light [that I need to finally order at some point ]). Really brings the two signs in the game together with the proper setting, and the gas pumps should help even more (again, I may be biased ). There's a rubberized coating on the back of the mirror/window to protect it from scratching.

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Outcida (Tim's Pinball Mods) makes the sign light and the murder ride door (they can be found on eBay). They look great and of course I wouldn't create something another mod maker has already done well. The pumps and the station will be available sometime after I ship run #5 of the LDG mod

Some of these are still having issues, so it would seem it is something other than what I thought (again, please confirm here or via PM if your recent LDG mod is working as it should). Thanks again to the couple that have confirmed proper function thus far for recent orders and repairs, but there were many more shipped that I'm worried about. Even if it comes to a full refund, this issue will be made right.

I'm having parts shipped to a couple different Pinsiders that are good with electronics to see if anything can be discovered. All of these units get tested and I cannot get them to fail here, so this issue has left me baffled as to why it works in some machines and not others. I'll be giving up the bench test for this next run and will be installing each mod in my own machine for testing (this would confirm function with the LDG lightboard, which is the only thing that's different vs. the bench test). I'm left questioning if some of these parts are just more prone to failure than others, yet again, they pass testing before they leave

Sorry again to anyone this has affected.

As Deafcon notes, yours is working fine. Deafcon's guess seems good as the ones that have returned with failure show evidence of such an issue (browned photoresistor and leads that obviously got hot), yet bench testing at machine voltage leads to no such problem, nor any heat issue. My unit is still running great since early Dec. and still no issues from the 5 units in Run #1. Completely frustrating and baffling, but Deafcon sounds like he knows his stuff

Thank you

Awesome, thank you Seems that the ones that fail do so nearly instantly, so hopefully yours is good to go. I don't know if it has anything to do with it, but I seem to hear more issue reports from early machines (build #s 50s and earlier [mine is #149]).

That seems to be the way to know (correlates on mine the same). I had to look at mine to make sure (as I ordered new from Spooky, I knew my number that way ). Not certain about the date.

Likely listing these for sale Sunday night or so (and a separate thread will be made then), but for those that have been following the sneak peeks here, I present the 3D gas pumps Caps were designed to cover the screw holes, and there is a plastic window that's hard to see in the pics without a reflection. Real rubber hose. Movie screenshot for reference (hopefully this is enough detail to be recognizable ):

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Mounts using the same factory screws that the factory 2D gas pumps use

EDIT: See you said "station" now, ha ha. The station hooks over the backboard of the game (can be positioned as the user desires). Can stay put on its own, or the backing to the mounting tape can be pulled to stick it down (installs in seconds + whatever it takes to attach a couple wires to power).

I'm sure it would look good that way as well, but to implement that now or do anything smaller in general would be to re-do nearly everything as it's comprised of multiple parts, including multiple decals I created. As it stands, the decals likely wouldn't be legible any smaller, and the screw holes, plastic window grooves, rubber hose dimensions, etc. would all have to be re-worked if it were smaller.

I always had (2) 2D pumps at each of those locations, so it was the logical step in my mind to place them there (as I've been looking at them that way for over a year now, I'm not even sure where the original is supposed to be, ha ha [EDIT: I see it was originally just on the front one now, though it looks the best on the other post IMO]). I had debated making a double pump for the back under the awning area, but that would also start to block inserts on the upper playfield, the station details, etc. I didn't want it to look too crowded there.

Otherwise, I believe these were only 6mm taller than the factory 2D plastic (EDIT: closer to 5mm). Everything else beyond that is to scale based on many photos I found of the film set.

Perhaps seeing it from the player perspective will help give a better idea (not nearly as jammed looking as the close ups may suggest). I can see how it would look nice with two at the back, but I'm also seeing how it would block some things in a way that would make it look less factory. However, I also see some merit in the way I have it as I dig the way it fills out the whole upper playfield (again, a bit easier to see at player perspective). Here's some shots with the game in attract with flash and no flash, and one flash with the game off.

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When it goes up for sale (aiming for Sunday night), there will be multiple purchase options, with discounts for various combinations. Just one pump with the station will be an option, and I can understand why some may prefer it that way.

While it would be possible for me alter the design to allow for the pumps to be side by side, this would come at the cost of either blocking the sign on the right, which would create a new visual issue and possibly ball clearance issues, or on the front side, this would block the flipper view, which of course would be a poor choice.

Perhaps it's because I had my 2D pumps in both spots all along, but my eyes follow from the upper playfield flipper to the rightmost sign, the path that the ball takes, and that lends itself to the ball travelling in between the pumps in a way that's visually appealing to me.

The numbered description is correct for proper function. Staying lit with no interaction after switch hits is a component failure with an unknown reason thus far, and one that I haven't been able to replicate in test (there are a few posts here confirming such proper function on recent builds and some in the main RZ thread). The one in my machine since early Dec. shows no signs of any failure, but of course the issue is of concern, yet baffling at the moment given the inconsistent results. ZEN and Deafcon have offered to help troubleshoot and both likely know more than I on the electronics side of things. Thanks again to you both.

As noted, this week's run will have each unit tested in my machine (not just a bench test), and hopefully that will catch any weak components in the circuit.

Thank you for confirming proper function and for the positive feedback

I believe I've now solved the issue. While I had my lightboard out to machine test the units from this run, I did some experimenting and discovered that the lightboard was dropping resistance well below any bench test could produce. Generally I'd get 3.xx ohms out of normal light, but point blank light from the LDG board would drop resistance on some LDRs to ~0.05, which leads to excess heating of the LDR. I tested masking the light a few different ways, and was able to finally match my 3.xx ohms with blue cardstock as a filter and no longer get heating on the leads. It may have been user Magicchiz that actually suggested something similar when this issue was discussed. Whomever it was, you appear to have been correct

It now makes sense that some units work just fine as I noticed sometimes significant resistance variance between the LDRs out of the same package (reason some may not go to black as quickly as others and vice versa).

As I've run too late on these today to get international orders shipped today, they will ship tomorrow by noon. I'll get US orders out via kiosk today with tracking numbers being sent later tonight.

If requested I can send something out. As noted, my unit has worked perfectly fine since early Dec. without such a change. It would seem some of the LDRs were sturdier than others against this issue from the get-go. It certainly couldn't hurt to add a filter of some sort to the LDR. I would expect most colored construction paper would work with some super glue to adhere it over the sensor. As long as it still allowed enough light to pass to get the full LED brightness (should be a large enough range for this to see no issue with most filter options outside thin/white paper).

May very well have been your suggestion I was recalling then. I had no idea the LDR could be over-driven by overly bright light, but you were right EDIT: Though I suppose that was in regard to a separate issue (the sensor you got had a wonky resistance level compared to most in that range [as yours wasn't going black]).

Perhaps some sort of opaque masking tape would offer a similar result (I'm sure there's a range of effect that would work the same). I'll upload a photo here later tonight of what I did for this run (not the most elegant fix, but it works and won't be seen). The photo would also show the color I used to get a near exact match compared with bench-test lighting.

EDIT: (photo). The existing design of the lightbox makes it easy to adhere a filter on top of the structure around the recessed sensor.

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Going to note that two layers of blue painters tape over the sensor should also be a suitable approach to protecting the sensor from burning out. As this may be a common household item for many, I expect it could be the easier route. Sorry for not figuring this out sooner. Hopefully my transparency here as I struggled to solve the problem leaves some good faith (was just darn confusing with my prototype running strong and no reports from run #1 about this issue, leading me to assume it was the LED strip change in run #2...until some repairs failed again ).

Wow, I'm surprised it works perfectly that way. Apparently enough light must pass through the back of the board. Hmm. I may test it that way myself out of curiosity.

EDIT: I would recommend others do the same presuming this works as well as it sounds (even easier than needing tape, etc.). Crazy, ha ha

No amount of ambient room light could possibly cause an issue. I used brighter than normal light (point blank spotlight "gun") in my initial tests when prototyping. Just that darn LDG light turned out to be insanely bright tied with my ignorance to the fact that the photoresistor could go beyond a safe range with such light. At least I'll never make that mistake in the future should I ever find a reason to use such a sensor again.

Yep, apparently that works, ha ha

The photo posted is of course how the mod was intended to work (lights facing the sensor), and the way my own unit has continued to work, but with the issue that came up, it seems the best way in fact is the exact opposite of what I intended (to maintain safe resistance levels). The last run had the filter in place and would be safe in either direciton, but for those without the filter, it's easiest to install the board with lights facing AWAY from the sensor (rather than mess with any sort of filter).

EDIT: I just added a note on that post to help not lead anyone astray with it and several customers were contacted directly about the issue.

I appreciate that. Thank you

Adding the modified instructions here for the reversed board as discussed in the thread:

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For those waiting, I'm currently in the midst of a run of 4 of them, though 3 are spoken for. Should be one available that won't be too far out on shipping. Likely be a couple weeks before I can start more as I'm in the midst of runs on the gas set and spine as well.

Yes, that's the way to do it for the updated method. Just be careful when pushing that box into the mausoleum cavity as it's a tight squeeze when the board is flipped that way (it does fit, but was originally designed to fit the board the other way).

Awesome! Thank you for the photo and feedback

Black Friday sale now in effect until Sunday. $20 off.

Thanks to all of those that supported this mod--it's currently in over 20% of all RZ machines! Perhaps this sale will help get it into a few more

Have a great holiday weekend

I've also added a free ball stop to the black Friday sale for those that don't have one yet

Got the first order for a RED version. Neat to see something different (think every order was PINK aside from a couple Ice Blue).

The infinite effect in RED looks very "Stranger Things" to me. Hopefully the new owner will post an installed pic once recieved

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After over three years of making the Rob Zombie mods, they are now discontinued, with a final run call on the Mausoleum (details below). With some of these mods in what may be 40+% of all Rob Zombie machines (lost count a long time ago ), the support for them has been beyond any expectation, and I can't thank everyone enough.

With months of backlog for over a year now, I haven't been able to develop new mods, which is the more exciting aspect of modding for me, and many of these RZ mods take a long time to make (the gas set being the most tedious).

Anyone that was promised RZ mods will still be able to get them, so no concerns there (open orders, those on a list, and those that were promised mods with future Elvira runs).

As demand still continues to be consistent for these mods, I expect any sold second hand should maintain their value, or perhaps even fetch a premium (the previously discontinued spine mod has proven to be in demand at a premium, and is the rarest of the mods with only about 40 produced).

The ball stop mod will continue to be available for download on Thingiverse (no other files for RZ will be released).

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Mausoleum Final Run Call: It would likely be about 4+ months out on turnaround, but for the rest of January, if anyone still wants a Mausoleum mod, you can contact me via PM to be put on a list. They would be $245 shipped (no payment until I'm closer to shipping).

The files won't be released (discussed in some other threads).

Sorry to disappoint.