Outcida (Tim's Pinball Mods) makes the sign light and the murder ride door (they can be found on eBay). They look great and of course I wouldn't create something another mod maker has already done well. The pumps and the station will be available sometime after I ship run #5 of the LDG mod

Some of these are still having issues, so it would seem it is something other than what I thought (again, please confirm here or via PM if your recent LDG mod is working as it should). Thanks again to the couple that have confirmed proper function thus far for recent orders and repairs, but there were many more shipped that I'm worried about. Even if it comes to a full refund, this issue will be made right.

I'm having parts shipped to a couple different Pinsiders that are good with electronics to see if anything can be discovered. All of these units get tested and I cannot get them to fail here, so this issue has left me baffled as to why it works in some machines and not others. I'll be giving up the bench test for this next run and will be installing each mod in my own machine for testing (this would confirm function with the LDG lightboard, which is the only thing that's different vs. the bench test). I'm left questioning if some of these parts are just more prone to failure than others, yet again, they pass testing before they leave

Sorry again to anyone this has affected.

As Deafcon notes, yours is working fine. Deafcon's guess seems good as the ones that have returned with failure show evidence of such an issue (browned photoresistor and leads that obviously got hot), yet bench testing at machine voltage leads to no such problem, nor any heat issue. My unit is still running great since early Dec. and still no issues from the 5 units in Run #1. Completely frustrating and baffling, but Deafcon sounds like he knows his stuff

Thank you

Awesome, thank you Seems that the ones that fail do so nearly instantly, so hopefully yours is good to go. I don't know if it has anything to do with it, but I seem to hear more issue reports from early machines (build #s 50s and earlier [mine is #149]).

That seems to be the way to know (correlates on mine the same). I had to look at mine to make sure (as I ordered new from Spooky, I knew my number that way ). Not certain about the date.

Likely listing these for sale Sunday night or so (and a separate thread will be made then), but for those that have been following the sneak peeks here, I present the 3D gas pumps Caps were designed to cover the screw holes, and there is a plastic window that's hard to see in the pics without a reflection. Real rubber hose. Movie screenshot for reference (hopefully this is enough detail to be recognizable ):

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Mounts using the same factory screws that the factory 2D gas pumps use

EDIT: See you said "station" now, ha ha. The station hooks over the backboard of the game (can be positioned as the user desires). Can stay put on its own, or the backing to the mounting tape can be pulled to stick it down (installs in seconds + whatever it takes to attach a couple wires to power).

I'm sure it would look good that way as well, but to implement that now or do anything smaller in general would be to re-do nearly everything as it's comprised of multiple parts, including multiple decals I created. As it stands, the decals likely wouldn't be legible any smaller, and the screw holes, plastic window grooves, rubber hose dimensions, etc. would all have to be re-worked if it were smaller.

I always had (2) 2D pumps at each of those locations, so it was the logical step in my mind to place them there (as I've been looking at them that way for over a year now, I'm not even sure where the original is supposed to be, ha ha [EDIT: I see it was originally just on the front one now, though it looks the best on the other post IMO]). I had debated making a double pump for the back under the awning area, but that would also start to block inserts on the upper playfield, the station details, etc. I didn't want it to look too crowded there.

Otherwise, I believe these were only 6mm taller than the factory 2D plastic (EDIT: closer to 5mm). Everything else beyond that is to scale based on many photos I found of the film set.

Perhaps seeing it from the player perspective will help give a better idea (not nearly as jammed looking as the close ups may suggest). I can see how it would look nice with two at the back, but I'm also seeing how it would block some things in a way that would make it look less factory. However, I also see some merit in the way I have it as I dig the way it fills out the whole upper playfield (again, a bit easier to see at player perspective). Here's some shots with the game in attract with flash and no flash, and one flash with the game off.

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When it goes up for sale (aiming for Sunday night), there will be multiple purchase options, with discounts for various combinations. Just one pump with the station will be an option, and I can understand why some may prefer it that way.

While it would be possible for me alter the design to allow for the pumps to be side by side, this would come at the cost of either blocking the sign on the right, which would create a new visual issue and possibly ball clearance issues, or on the front side, this would block the flipper view, which of course would be a poor choice.

Perhaps it's because I had my 2D pumps in both spots all along, but my eyes follow from the upper playfield flipper to the rightmost sign, the path that the ball takes, and that lends itself to the ball travelling in between the pumps in a way that's visually appealing to me.

The numbered description is correct for proper function. Staying lit with no interaction after switch hits is a component failure with an unknown reason thus far, and one that I haven't been able to replicate in test (there are a few posts here confirming such proper function on recent builds and some in the main RZ thread). The one in my machine since early Dec. shows no signs of any failure, but of course the issue is of concern, yet baffling at the moment given the inconsistent results. ZEN and Deafcon have offered to help troubleshoot and both likely know more than I on the electronics side of things. Thanks again to you both.

As noted, this week's run will have each unit tested in my machine (not just a bench test), and hopefully that will catch any weak components in the circuit.

Thank you for confirming proper function and for the positive feedback

I believe I've now solved the issue. While I had my lightboard out to machine test the units from this run, I did some experimenting and discovered that the lightboard was dropping resistance well below any bench test could produce. Generally I'd get 3.xx ohms out of normal light, but point blank light from the LDG board would drop resistance on some LDRs to ~0.05, which leads to excess heating of the LDR. I tested masking the light a few different ways, and was able to finally match my 3.xx ohms with blue cardstock as a filter and no longer get heating on the leads. It may have been user Magicchiz that actually suggested something similar when this issue was discussed. Whomever it was, you appear to have been correct

It now makes sense that some units work just fine as I noticed sometimes significant resistance variance between the LDRs out of the same package (reason some may not go to black as quickly as others and vice versa).

As I've run too late on these today to get international orders shipped today, they will ship tomorrow by noon. I'll get US orders out via kiosk today with tracking numbers being sent later tonight.

If requested I can send something out. As noted, my unit has worked perfectly fine since early Dec. without such a change. It would seem some of the LDRs were sturdier than others against this issue from the get-go. It certainly couldn't hurt to add a filter of some sort to the LDR. I would expect most colored construction paper would work with some super glue to adhere it over the sensor. As long as it still allowed enough light to pass to get the full LED brightness (should be a large enough range for this to see no issue with most filter options outside thin/white paper).

May very well have been your suggestion I was recalling then. I had no idea the LDR could be over-driven by overly bright light, but you were right EDIT: Though I suppose that was in regard to a separate issue (the sensor you got had a wonky resistance level compared to most in that range [as yours wasn't going black]).

Perhaps some sort of opaque masking tape would offer a similar result (I'm sure there's a range of effect that would work the same). I'll upload a photo here later tonight of what I did for this run (not the most elegant fix, but it works and won't be seen). The photo would also show the color I used to get a near exact match compared with bench-test lighting.

EDIT: (photo). The existing design of the lightbox makes it easy to adhere a filter on top of the structure around the recessed sensor.

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Going to note that two layers of blue painters tape over the sensor should also be a suitable approach to protecting the sensor from burning out. As this may be a common household item for many, I expect it could be the easier route. Sorry for not figuring this out sooner. Hopefully my transparency here as I struggled to solve the problem leaves some good faith (was just darn confusing with my prototype running strong and no reports from run #1 about this issue, leading me to assume it was the LED strip change in run #2...until some repairs failed again ).

Wow, I'm surprised it works perfectly that way. Apparently enough light must pass through the back of the board. Hmm. I may test it that way myself out of curiosity.

EDIT: I would recommend others do the same presuming this works as well as it sounds (even easier than needing tape, etc.). Crazy, ha ha

No amount of ambient room light could possibly cause an issue. I used brighter than normal light (point blank spotlight "gun") in my initial tests when prototyping. Just that darn LDG light turned out to be insanely bright tied with my ignorance to the fact that the photoresistor could go beyond a safe range with such light. At least I'll never make that mistake in the future should I ever find a reason to use such a sensor again.

Yep, apparently that works, ha ha