Is there a stackerless model that fits in the large lower cutout on a modern stern style coin door?

Can anybody tell me why it wouldn't work to cut up a stacker if I leave the bottom toothy connector part intact, making it think the caddy is in place but the bills just fall into the coin box?

What do we do when life gives us questions we cannot answer? Get out the dremel and wreck some shit. For science.

Frankencaddy was a success. At first I tried shaving off the top so the caddy would still basically function, but i neglected to leave enough material above the side doors to keep the rigidity in the cartridge. This probably would have worked in the model with the top door as it wouldn't have a problem. After that I cut it so the mounts were intact and the bottom with the window and "caddy full" indicator wire were intact. I believe this is as bare bones as I can take it. It seems to feed bills fine and just drop them down when I hold it in my hands, it ate about 50 bux no problem. I'll report back on how it does in baywatch. The issue I see as possible is the arms with the mounts flexing inwards towards the top and catching the "pusher". If I ever make a 2.0 it will have the full front frame.
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Take the stacker off and try it.

I have. And cut the stacker down. And all kinds of attempts.

Have fun.

LTG : )

It's a modern style door bolted onto a Sega baywatch

Any advice on installing dba on a star trek the next generation? From what I've read Dixie narco 88X5011 will work?

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You need a Mars/MEI installation, with a "compact" bezel. 120v. You n3eed a model that matched model number: AE2[3-8][1,4]1 With a 200, 300 or 500 magazine.
(So, An AE2811 would work, as would a AE2341, etc.)
These would mount in the lower slot.

You can get an older VFM4 to put in the stop slot.

A '3' in the third digit is the "AL4 & VFM5 Upstacker. All available bezels are:
0: VFM Upstacker
1: Compact Upstacker
2: Flush Mount Upstacker
3: AL4 & VFM5 Downstcaker
4: Armored Compact Upstacker
5: Fitted Upstacker
6: Combo Upstacker (Side Swipe)
7: Dual Opening - Compact
8: Compact Downstacker
9: Combo Upstacker (Front Swipe)
A: 4-in-1 Bezel, No Setback
B: 4-in-1 Bezel, Setback
C: VFM High-Visibility
D: Compact High-Visibility
E: CVS Downstacker (EU Only)
F: CVL Downstacker (EU Only)
G: 4-in-1 (CA Only)
H: 3-in-1 VFM
J: Fitted Upstacker - Clear
K: ? (Quoted from MEI's own document.)
L: Easichoise4 (US Only)
M: Easichoise4 (CA Only)

I am pretty sure that the VFM4 faceplate will not work in the upper slot, because Mars units still require a stacker, and the stacker won't fit when mounted as a downstacker.

Thanks for the quick response. Unfortunately I dont have the 12 to 9 pin adapter. Where is the best place to buy a dba, ebay doesn't seem very good.

HaHa. Good one.

This guy sells refurbished ones that look like brand new and a new sheet of decals comes with. And he'll change the 500 stacker to a 300 for you if you ask.

ebay.com link: itm

I've gotten 5 so far and all look like new and have had no issues in commercial service.

LTG : )

Thanks, I appreciate it!

Just purchased it and requested the 300 stacker, thx again.

Tried it, doesnt fit even after removing bezel. Brackets do not line up.
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Ebay auction said u5 this is a u7 he sent, is that why it fits poorly?

I know I need a compact bezel but this unit may not even have space for the bezel.

Is there a difference in u5 to u7 fitting?

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Yeah we might take a dremel fo the door.

The "U5" / "U7", while stamped on the model number, can be changed.
The "U" means it's an upstacker. The "5" and "7" is the magazine size. The magazine can be swapped easily. He likely sent a 500-bill magazine even though the model number is U7. The "5" and "7" would not affect how the acceptor fits in the DOOR. It may/would stop you from closing the door once installed.

The U/D would specify which hole in the door it fits into - "U" would be mounted in the bottom hole. A "D" (downstacker) would fit in the top hole.

The door closed and the stacker isn't in the way. He installed a 300 for me instead of a 500 per my request.

Yup. So you have a "U3" and not a "U7" or "U5".

I appreciate the info I'm new to this but determined to make this work!

Will AE 2681 D10 115v MEI stackers work in WPC's?

That's a downstacker I think so probably not because the stack will prevent the door from opening. You want the upstackers.

No. Not without serious modification. The coin door mount for downstackers requires a VFM (stackerless) faceplate, and the 2000's series don't work without a stacker.

I have a MEI AE2451 that I'd like to install on a '93 Data East machine. Does anyone know where I can find the correct compact bezel?

Best bet would be to keep an eye out on eBay - bezels often just show up on their own at times.

What about reskinning a WPC coin door with a modern one? Would everything swap cleanly? Seems like a low-cost way to gain access to a variety of newer DBA units... if it fits on the old door frame. About $30.

(edit: it won’t fit) :/

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If not... perhaps swapping to a universal pinball coin door (photo from Suzohapp site) might be the ticket... about $110.

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Not if you have to cut the door for the DBV.

That would work. Check Pinball Life and Marco too.

LTG : )

Hey LTG... go to bed!

Regarding the cheaper re-skin option, it seems like as long as the coin bezels, mechs, etc., could be moved over to the new skin and would still fit inside of the original door frame, a DBV would fit through the larger cutout since it would essentially make an old WPC door into a new one...

...if it fits!

Take one off, see if the holes look the same. If so then try it.

LTG : )

Bad news: The coin door skin alone won’t fit the existing WPC frame and hardware. Awwwww.

Checking if a total door and frame replacement would work. Seems like the next “least worst” option.

What game ?

Usually four bolts and the hole is the same size.

LTG : )

I've done this on a couple games, it works fine. IIRC a minor wiring change was required for the DBA but that's it.

Safecracker. Williams coin door 09-85000-1.

Most WPC’s used 09-61000-1.

Terry (PBL) has a full door kit which I ordered without the harness. Should be able to adapt what’s inside Safecracker to it.

And then, finally, in goes the Mars 2411.

Safecracker had the larger coin slot for Magic Tokens, on the left, regular quarter on the right.

So coin door will fit. No idea on hole for Magic Token entry spot.

LTG : )

Ok folks… if you’d like to install a Mars 2000 series DBA into your Safecracker with a new door, this is what you’ll have to do:

The good part: Door frame bolt locations haven’t changed from old to new, so the new door and frame are easy to attach.

The bad part? Everything else. Still worth doing IMHO.

Firstly, you’ll have to Dremel the bill box holder to fit under the playfield:

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By about this much:

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Then, you’ll have to drill new holes in the door edge to relocate the switch plate. Otherwise the switches won’t trigger when the door is shut. I recommend this approach vs. trying to relocate the switches to the lower position where the new door plate is:

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No holes exist for the menu buttons, but you can use the single switch screw to attach it:

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You’ll want to wire up both coin slots together to accept quarters, because your magic token slot will be gone:

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Then, you’ll want to murder your bill box (note, I switched the previous top-loader to side-doors) to fit underneath the playfield:

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And then you’ll want to murder it a bit more so that it can swing open without having to remove the playfield:

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And THEN a bit more still, just before the door hinge completely comes off but still works…

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Finally, plug in your service AC cord, your AC harness, solder the wires to the unused switch pair (and configure for $1), and boom… you’re done. Takes about five hours at a casual pace to do it neatly.

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Safecracker uses a smaller footprint. Hopefully if you are converting a different WPC, it won’t require as much murdering. But you never know until you try.

No “Assault on the Vault” with this configuration without a new coin entrance plate and token coin mech.

Could be done, but, nearly everyone wants to keep one of our custom RPM souvenir coins around here… and I bet you would too.

BTW, the violent alternative would be to simply saw right into your existing WPC door with a Dremel to make the Mars fit. Ugly, but doable. I just couldn’t bring myself to do it.

Trying to install a 12V into World Cup soccer. I have a spare stern door so that the faceplate fits and won’t be an issue. My issue is I’m getting 12V from the machine but when I put the acceptor in I’m only getting like 3V. It’s foggy but isn’t there some sort of piggy back harness module that connects the 9-pin molex and goes off in third direction to pull 2-pronged full 12V power from the outlet at the front right of the machine?

Bill validator may be dragging too much power from the game.

No. That is to use a 110VAV unit in a 12 volt game.

LTG : )

Ah thanks LTG.

Solutions if the unit is pulling too much power?

Separate power supply.

Get a good used 110AC one off of ebay.

LTG : )

Like this?

ebay.com link: itm

And then it is?
That converter unit plugs into wall outlet

Then I wire the dollar acceptor signal wire to the game’s signal wire and ground

Then I wire the dollar acceptor power cable and ground to the 13,3v positive and negative of that converter unit?

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Holy crap, no, the no DBA needs 30 amps.
It shouldn't pull more then 2 or 3 amps, max_, so you can find a smaller one. And 110v -> 12v, not from 24v. That way you can feed it line power, and not draw from any other in-game power regulators/supplies.

Thanks Coyote, clearly this area not my strong suit. Ok how about this Amazon special? It says 8.3 amps though, is that an issue?

LED Driver 100 Watts 110V AC to 12V DC Low Voltage Output, IP67 Waterproof Power Low Voltage Transformer Adapter with 3 pin Plug LED Cable for LED Light bar, Indoor and Outdoor Light String https://a.co/d/4OauVHl

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No worries!
That would work, yeah. So would something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09V12B47X/

Awesome, I’ll buy the one I listed as I don’t mind paying a couple extra bucks for the convenience of having the plug and pre-made output wire.

Next, when I install/wire it in, I’ll need to figure out a way to turn the dollar acceptor on/off separately than the machine it would seem?

Plug it into the service outlet and as long as the game is plugged in and the service out let has power, it will be on.

If you want it to turn on and off with the on/off switch in the game, cut the plug off and wire it into the game after the on/off switch.

LTG : )

Ok, getting super close now. Another question please-
Which of these two wires coming from the game is credit relay common for Pin ONE on the bill acceptor and which is credit relay N.O. for Pin Two?

Pin One on dbv four wire harness is white
Pin two on dbv four wire harness is brown

Is it as easy as white from harness to white to game and then brown to black?

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Basically which goes to which.

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Closer to coin door has orange with red stripe and black with white stripe

On left side of cabinet is white and black

Pin1 on acceptor is white
Pin 2 on acceptor is brown
Pin 16 on acceptor is black
Pin 19 on acceptor is red