NO, there should not be solder or any connection between the two points.

Don't mess with it. I used a card board box and some special tape to hold down wires. All helped lay it over in a good place.

I wrote down which wires went where and checked the schematic from the new and old. I also clipped the old wire to work with fresh wire and also not having to de solder old board gave a reference as well. I laid out all the wires and used some soldering tape to hold them in place before I soldered anything. Good light and some good prep and you've got this.

I would take the whole thing, transformer and board, out and place it on your workbench, lots easier to work on it that way. If you are more comfortable leaving everything in the game do whatever makes you more comfortable. As far as E7--GI buss and E8--ground go, they are redundant points so don't worry about which hole, left right, up down, as they both end up in the same place. Just take your time and don't forget that new female connectors are part of the same job, too. Don't be afraid to use a lot of heat in the soldering process. I believe at last count I have installed well over 25 of these rectifier boards and the first one was the hardest. Good luck!

Also make sure your J1 connector has a key pin. I had a client who plugged his eight-pin connector offset by one position on the new rectifier board (it has nine pins) because it lacked a key. He made some of the magic smoke leak out.

Well you take the plunge yet? Trust me if I can do this stuff and more you can. I think I finally got all the gremlins out of my Strikes and Spares. Rectifier boards are not that hard with multiple solders close to each other. They are more inconvenient due to having to do in back box. Prep makes it easier. Wait to you graduate to TIP's. I got that solder tape off amazon and it helped hold things in place very well.

Make sure you use solder safe for electronics. Don't use acid based solder (used for plumbing). Get some solder with a rosin core which will help the solder flow well. I still prefer to use lead based solder, easier to work with it's lower melting point.

@buzz can you post a link to the Solder Tape please? I have never used that and am willing to give it a try in my projects.

Thank you.

Worked great. Good hold with no residue and easy to remove.

Thanks for the post.

Somehow, I thought that you were referring to a "melting solder tape" that you would wrap around a joint and then apply heat to it. Now I see that you mean a tape to hold items in place while you are soldering.

LOL. I wish something like that existed for all the gravity defying need four hands stuff there is to solder on these things.

Kapton tape is some pretty amazing stuff. I use it in the lab fairly often. Great electrical isolation properties, and the temperatures it can handle are beyond extreme. It could care less if you place a hot soldering iron up against it.

Radio Shack used to sell solder strips that were intended to be wrapped around a connection and melted with a lighter or a match. Part #64-010 IIRC.

https://www.amazon.com/Radio-Shack-Heat-Solder-64-010/product-reviews/B001TQMBA6

Just looked it up and scarily that was the right part #. I remember it well from working at the shack in the 90s because we NEVER sold any of it.

I miss Radio Shack

I miss the 70's Radio Shack

And the new Radio Shack catalog every year. Like the the Sear's Toy catalog.

I was there the year they decided to charge $2.00 for the catalog.... there was almost a riot.

They really should have survived but they were so stupid in their management - they put sales of cell phones above profits. The parts were their bread and butter and they blew it.

It's rosin core and mentions electrical - so that part sounds OK. It's silver bearing solder, and if I'm not mistaken, has a much higher melting point than 60/40 (tin/lead) solder. So given that comment, I'd likely be concerned w/small parts and PWB damage from heat.

I've used silver solder on parts years ago that required silver solder...sure did need a higher temp to flow well. A PIA to use. Not sure of the 'bearing' part of silver bearing.

Looking at the HD web site, they have leaded solder, but the diameter is rather large (0.062") - that's a bit much for parts, but for wires -no problem.

Here's some Amazon stuff if you want smaller: https://www.amazon.com/HGMZZQ-Solder-Electrical-Soldering-1-0mm-0-22lbs/dp/B07BGY99SN/ref=sr_1_1_sspa

Just my 2 cents!

Except go to 63/37 instead of 60/40. 60/40 is a hair cheaper but 63/37 (also known as "Eutectic" composition) provides a much lower chance of getting bad solder joints due to it having an instant fluid to solid state change.

Best place to get an American brand (Kester) is through Kimco at www.gokimco.com
https://gokimco.com/44-rosin-core-solder-wire-sn63-pb37-031-66.html

This is a good Kester #44 rosin with 63/37 tin lead composition.
It costs about 2x that of the Chinese stuff in link above but is for a full, 1lb roll instead of the less than 1/4 lb roll.
You can also find the Kester #44, 63/37 solder in 3/4 ounce tubes on Amazon.

Following.

Kapton tape is usually used to keep wires in place (like the thin jumper wires) after installation to keep them from flying free. You could use them in soldering to keep the wire in place although if you move 1 wire at a time on a rectifier board installation I don't think it's strictly needed there.

Alot of heat around those boards during their lifetime. Crud wicks up the wires. Clip at least an inch off of each one before connecting to new board. If the solder doesn't want to flow, that's prob why.
Good luck.

I used it to help hold all the wires in place. I cut the wires off the old board and worked with new wire as mentioned. I found it easier for me to put all the wires where they belong and each held with the tape in place an inch or so back. Then I was able to see the order I wanted to solder without getting blocked by another wire. I personally like to fully prep before I work and I don't have to keep putting the solderer down and figure where the next went and so on. I felt it helped me a lot using the tape and making sure I had everything in place and the wires formed right so I could just solder.

Right on!!!! Very good feeling when you get something to work. As for coin door with power off just look around for loose connections or missing ground. That's a pin I would love to have one day glad you got it working.

The coin door hum may be the coin relay that is always activated when the game is powered on. They can hum. If you are not using coins you can clip one of the leads to the relay. When the relay is not activated, coins will go from the coin slot directly to the coin return.

Congrats Seawolf! You've been busy! Now crack open that Alladins Castle

Don

Why didn't you remove the whole transformer and do it on the bench?? So much easier!